<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="1" > the ancients had a poem called "Walk to the end of the water, when the clouds rise.". </h1>
After making this dish of boiled meat slices today, I think this poem may be changed to: "Go to the boiled place, the meat slices in the seat are fragrant [smile]"
Boiled meat slices are not the practice of authentic Sichuan cuisine, but more of a collision of spicy and passionate jianghu cuisine, and there is even a hot pot brand in a district and county in Chongqing, called boiled youth. Although this hot pot is delicious, but it deceives the tongue, can not deceive the stomach, every time you eat this hot pot, you have to continue to "think about the wall" in the bathroom for several days.
Boiled fish in perfume
In order to better taste the taste of boiled dishes, I have salvaged the taste of history on the Internet in "Boiled For a Hundred Years", in the famous Sichuan poet and food writer Shi Guanghua's "My Sichuan Cuisine Life" and "My Sichuan Cuisine Taste" to distinguish the difference between various ingredients, in Sima Qingyi's "Boiled Chongqing" to taste the historical bones of Bayu's special cuisine, and finally concluded that if you want to know the taste of boiled meat slices, you must cook it yourself and taste it on the table.
I used to wonder if it would be better to add some baking soda when kneading beef? Unexpectedly, Shi Guanghua said: "If our boiled beef is not seven years old and eighty, the mastery of the heat is the key." But when marinating, there is also a trick, that is, put a little baking soda. Baking soda is sold in pharmacies, a few dollars a large bottle, the full name is "sodium bicarbonate tablets". Take four slices, press and grind into powder, and marinate the seasoning, knead it with your hands to clean it" Further look at the literature, boiled meat slices, which are the favorite dishes of Chongqing people, also reflect the story of our reform and opening up era! Professor Lan Yong's team at Southwest University did a survey, and he said in the "History of Chinese Sichuan Cuisine":
The investigation shows that in 1985 after the reform and opening up, Tian Zhongming opened a restaurant on the side of the Nanshan Brigade Highway in Cuiyun Township, called Nanshan Hotel, which mainly engaged in home-cooked dishes such as bean blossoms and boiled meat slices, of which boiled meat slices were the characteristics of Nanshan Hotel and were welcomed by diners. After the opening of the airport expressway in 1988, Tian Zhongming's eldest son Tian Qiwan continued to run the Nanshan Hotel, while the second son, Tian Qishu, opened a roadside restaurant on the side of Shuangfengqiao Airport Road in 1989. In 1990, Tian Qishu introduced the method of boiling water into the cooking of fish, introduced boiled fish, which became very popular, and then renamed the roadside restaurant Cuiyun boiled. Later, Tian Qishu's younger brother Tian Li opened an independent store in 1997, named Cuiyun Boiled Fish Yubei Store. In 1999, Yang Zhan of Beijing went to Chongqing to obtain technology from Tian Qishu and opened a boiling fish town in Beijing, and boiled fish was once popular in Beijing, gradually spreading boiled fish throughout the country. At the same time, boiled fish also bloom everywhere in bashu, especially in the area of Yubei once formed a street of boiled fish, in 2010 Yubei District was known as the hometown of China's boiled fish, and in 2012, Cuiyun boiled fish became a district-level intangible cultural heritage protection project.
The history of the development of this dish actually reflects every footprint of contemporary China's economic progress.
A slice of boiled meat with a full color and flavor
Friends who have a sense of evidence, there may be more to discover about this dish. In fact, to do this dish well, there may be many pits that may be easy to fall into, even if you are a professional to learn cooking, if the understanding is not in place, it may be difficult to hear the following god-level technical essentials -
Master will teach you how far to marinate the cured meat, how many times to add water... As soon as Master grabbed it with his hand, he knew that your meat was not marinated in place. If it is not pickled in place, it will be woody, and if it is pickled, it will be soft, and the taste will be gone. Like boiled meat slices, the meat is not pickled, and Master's beef craftsmanship cannot make a tender taste.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="1" > today in the circle of friends my college classmate "Brother Haiquan" cares about what the boiled meat slices are used to base tonight, for this problem, we can listen to the sharing of Sima Qingyi teacher:</h1>
Traditional boiled beef is made up of three kinds: garlic sprouts, lettuce leaves and celery. Now, there are almost no restaurants in Chongqing that do this. At the "fly restaurant" in Chengdu, I have eaten boiled beef with garlic seedlings and lettuce leaves, and I praised the chef. This shows that Chengdu chefs are more disciplined. Chengdu's preservation of traditional Sichuan cuisine is also better than that of Chongqing. The chef of Chongqing is bold and keen to let go of himself. Boiled beef base dishes, a variety of dishes. There are lettuce leaves, more soybean sprouts, and there are also vine vine vegetables, wrapped white, cabbage, yellow straw white... About what you have at hand, use whatever, very sprinkled.
However, as we all know, garlic seedlings and lettuce leaves are not available every season, and celery is not necessarily everyone's favorite. The most common side dish in Chongqing for all ages must of course be counted as soybean sprouts. So today I also got a handful of soybean sprouts at the bottom. Regarding the merits and demerits of the side dishes, Sima Qingyi's statement may be a bit "fundamentalist", and another master teacher (who is said to have served catering to important central leaders in Diaoyutai) once gave an internal tutoring on this dish 40 years ago, he said:
"This dish, with celery, green shoots, bean sprouts as the top, no, can also be; today with cabbage, radish, garlic, kelp substitute, although the umami taste is slightly inferior, it can also get its charm." Because the essence of this dish is in the taste, the meat aroma into the dish, the dish aroma into the meat, the meat dish into the soup. As long as the small tenderloin meat is good, the sea pepper and pepper are used properly, and the flavor can be produced, and the meat aroma, vegetable flavor and soup aroma can be achieved. The boiled meat slices are spicy and heavy, and the meat is accompanied by a dish, highlighting the aroma of the dish, and this dish is successful. Eating Sichuan cuisine, what taste to eat, what taste to be like, insufficient, over, skewered, even wrong, is not a good Sichuan cuisine.
Today, when I was cooking this meat slice, I actually looked for the most common bean sprouts, which are available in almost all supermarkets at the entrance of the community. The amount of the dish should be about one-third of the total volume of the final dish. Do not be too much, otherwise it will affect the ratio of the dish to the main dish after it is finished. Soybean sprouts were first published in the "Mountain Family Offering", and at that time it was called "goose yellow bean raw" because of its "light yellow color". The author Lin Hong said that when he was in the Song Dynasty, he "traveled to Jianghuai for twenty years", and every time he ate soybean sprouts, he missed the food in his hometown! Fortunately, the overall improvement of the catering industry is now, and soybean sprouts are almost one of the cheapest home-cooked dishes. Academically, in 1978, Japanese scientist Yamasaki was the first to isolate and purify the octopeptide with amino acid sequence Lys-Gly-GluGlu-Ser-Leu-Ala from papain enzymatic beef hydrolyzed solution, named umami peptide, soybeans and soybean sprouts are one of the cheapest sources of umami peptides.
Here's a little friendly tip: bean sprouts are everywhere, don't store too much in the refrigerator because of kindness (or ignorance). It is recommended to buy and use as you go, do not keep it; people who love food and drink, when passing through the supermarket, must also pay attention to what fresh ingredients have recently been, as a local poet and gourmet in Chongqing said: "Everything has its own innate, such as people have their own resources." Human nature is foolish, although Confucius and Mencius teach it, it is useless. Poor physical properties, although easy to cook, but also tasteless. It refers to its general outline: pigs should be thin-skinned and should not be fishy; chickens should be tender and tender, not old and childish; crucian carp should be flattened and white-bellied, and those with black backs must be stronger than the plate; eels should be valuable for swimming in lakes and streams; and those who are born in the river must be hammered with their bone joints; ducks fed by the valley, their fat and white; bamboo shoots of the earth, whose knots are few and sweet; the same ham is also, and the good and ugly judgment is like heaven; the same eel is also, and the beauty and evil are divided into ice charcoal; other debris can be analogous. For a large number of delicacies, the merits of the chef are in the sixth, and the merits of the comprador are in the fourth." Bean sprouts are beautiful, but don't keep them.
Although there is no soda used when adding today, but combined with another state banquet chef before (I don't know if it can be referred to as the "national teacher" of the catering industry, haha) Jia Chef's explanation, Jia teacher particularly emphasized that whether it is egg white pulp or whole egg pulp or soda pulp, the middle of the water (or ginger water) is completed in three operations, which is like scientific research to do experiments, the process data that needs to be extracted three times must not only look at the last time, otherwise it will cause unstable experimental results, which will eventually lead to disastrous consequences of unreliable conclusions of the paper.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="1" > other places, I used cornstarch as always, because I felt that the delicacy of cornstarch was better wrapped in slices of meat, just like when you go out to make a hot spring bath, only cornstarch can make slices of meat relax and stretch each fold, let the taste penetrate into every grain, make the slices of meat delicate or rough, just right to hug each other with cornstarch - this hug is elastic It is a delicious prophecy and a sublimation of starch. </h1>
cornstarch
Of course, in terms of heat, our small households can not be compared with the big restaurant, and do not compare with the stoves used by the teachers on the recipe, sometimes, the stove is more than the stove, angry people, can only say, if you are a person who loves to cook this thing, you have to care about everything, pay attention to everything, such as your local temperature, the height of your floor, and even when you cook, whether your downstairs neighbors are also using natural gas, it will affect the regulation of the heat. Professional textbooks will say that the kitchen should be opened in time to open the range hood, but when frying the pepper in the pot before making the knife-edged pepper, I recommend not to open the range hood, because the pepper taste comes out, from less to more, from light to thick each weak link, you can distinguish it, otherwise the heat is too much or not, there will be a situation, at this time you will find that the wisdom of the ancestors is really absolute - "too late" Ah!
Sometimes, making a dish is a duel with my own picky taste buds, but also with the roughness of life, what is the feeling of this boiled meat slice today, let me answer for me with a clumsy poem:
Let the sun accumulate in the watercress
Let the bean sprouts sublimate in sautéing
Give a deep massage of the sliced meat
Deep care with egg whites
Boost elasticity with cornstarch
Let ginger rice, minced garlic with warm oil
There is also a four-handed bullet from Douban
Peppers and peppers
Under shovel regulation
Fly like butterflies
Fragrant delicious elopement
To the whole building
The sound of hot oil stinging
It is the most low-key manifesto of the gluttonous
（2021.5.4）