In the previous issue, we talked about the ancient "regular dress". In the past, the period dominated by the Central Plains ruling dynasty was basically every two adjacent dynasties, and the changes in their clothing were not very large, and when it came to ethnic minorities (Yuan and Qing dynasties), their clothing changes were more obvious, but there were still cases of wearing traditional Han costumes.
So in the content of this issue, let's take a look at what wedding dresses of different dynasties are in those ancient societies in our country! See if there's anything we didn't expect.
Ancient wedding dress
It is still in accordance with the order of the change of the Central Plains dynasties.
Summer Shang Week
Exactly how the wedding dress of the Xia Dynasty is, it still needs to be known by advanced archaeological research, but we can roughly infer from the wedding dress of the Shang and Zhou Dynasties that the wedding dress of the Xia Dynasty should not be much different from this time. What did the wedding dress look like during the Shang Zhou Period?
In fact, the Shang Dynasty did not have a particularly strict wedding dress system, but in the "Ceremonial Ceremony and ShiGuan Li", there were "pure clothes, silk clothes also." The rest of the clothes were made of cloth, and the crown and the knights took silk ears", referring to the "pure clothes", which was the clothing that participated in the sacrifice at that time, and it was also the most serious dress, and at the same time, it was also the wedding dress (generally silk) of noble women.
In the Zhou Dynasty, at this time, the heaviest "gift" has begun to have a "dowry". In terms of wedding dress, the period change is not much, basically the same as the business, but it is slightly looser, that is, "pure clothing (light red) loop", the overall black, supplemented by red.
However, at this time, there were already special clothing distinctions such as wedding dresses, mourning clothes, official clothes and military uniforms, and a large number of jade ornaments began to be used to embellish them. Incidentally, at this time, ideas such as "husbands die and keep the festival" have not yet emerged, and there is no so-called "chastity" concept, which allows women to remarry, even if they marry to other countries.
By the Time of the Spring and Autumn Warring States Princes vying for hegemony, because of the division of forces from all sides and social turmoil, the system of the Shang and Zhou Dynasties was basically followed in terms of etiquette.
The Three Kingdoms of Qin and Han
This period still followed the "Weekly Ritual" and did not change much overall. However, at this time, "deep clothes" and "skirts" also appeared, which were no longer completely the standard of tops and bottoms, and there was a distinction between ranks.
In "Peacock Flying Southeast", Jiao Zhongqing's wife Liu Shi has:
I embroidered the skirt and did everything in all directions. The feet are trampled, and the tortoiseshell light is on the head. The waist is like a stream of silk, and the ears are bright and bright.
It can be seen here that the women's dress at that time should be gorgeous enough, and the wedding dress will naturally pay more attention.
In the Han Dynasty, embroidery gradually developed, and many embroidery patterns gradually appeared on wedding dresses, which was even more gorgeous. Among the nobles, the choice of wedding dresses has gradually become luxurious, and the color has also appeared different from the black Poplar Red and Yellow, which is closer to our concept of dress.
It is worth mentioning that there are views that the "sari" that appeared in this period (used by women to cover their faces due to shyness when they married) may be the origin of the later bride's "hijab".
Wei and Jin Southern and Northern Dynasties
If there is no historical proof, I really don't believe that In China, which has always taken "white mourning and red marriage" as the main traditional concept, the most popular wedding dress at this time is actually white.
Princess Na concubine, there are white hubs, white yarn, white juan shirts, and purple jade. - "The Old Story of the Eastern Palace", Jin Shu
This is because during the Wei and Jin dynasties, "metaphysics" was almost universally respected, and returning to basics became a state that most people pursued, and the light white color was exactly in line with this idea. In daily life, white clothes are also the clothing that many people are willing to wear, and the pursuit of overall lightness and elegance. At this time, the "hijab" was used as a common object at weddings and slowly passed down.
Sui Tang and Song
By the Sui and Tang dynasties, the previous wedding dresses basically faded out of the historical stage, coupled with the improvement of living standards, the dyeing and weaving industry has made great progress, "red men and green women" began to appear, men wearing colored official clothes, women wearing turquoise dresses.
In the early Tang Dynasty, the wedding dresses were very complicated, with skirts, long shirts, shawls, wide-sleeved coats, etc. stacked and worn, and the head was equipped with various gold and silver tungsten, which looked quite graceful and luxurious. By the late Tang Dynasty, the wedding dress was gradually simplified, and the imperial court officials could wear the corresponding "commandment" rank clothing to show the difference in status.
The wedding dress of the Song Dynasty is not much different from that of the Tang Dynasty, but it is more brief. At this time, the "Phoenix Crown Xia Shuai" appeared in the wedding (for details, you can refer to the wedding plot in "Know It or Not").
Yuan
Since this is a country ruled by ethnic minorities, the Seven Souls Charm also has several Mongolian characteristics. "Quality Sun dress" is also a standard of wedding dress, the skirt has many folds to facilitate activities, while adding a high long hat, very national characteristics.
bright
This is a "contrary" to the Tang and Song Dynasties wedding dress popular period, changing the color of men's and women's wedding dresses, for "green men and red women". The man wears a green round neck jacket, and the woman wears a red luo skirt and gown, plus a red hijab or a thin tassel covering the face, plus cloud shoulders, and uses the phoenix crown xia drapery to the extreme.
clear
The last Qing Dynasty, which was also an era under the rule of ethnic minorities, also had Manchu ethnic elements in its wedding dress, namely the qipao and horse coat, and both men and women were red wedding dresses.
During this period, the previous clothing styles and systems were almost completely discarded, and the emperor constantly issued orders prohibiting Hanfu, which gradually affected the daily wear of the subsequent people.
Modern wedding dress
The gap between modern wedding dresses in the early period and the wedding in ancient times is still very wide, but there is a "retro" trend in the back.
Republic of China period
At the end of the last feudal dynasty, Manchu wedding customs gradually disappeared, replaced by the influence of Western divinity introduced to China in modern times, wedding dresses gradually took wedding dresses and suits as the main fashion trend, but there were still a small number of Chinese weddings, that is, qipao and Zhongshan suits.
nowadays
In modern society, the way of marriage in our country was still influenced by the West at first, and the influence was very far-reaching. For a long time, the wedding dresses selected in China's weddings are basically white wedding dresses and suits from the West, and gradually there is integration and change in the back, that is, the elements of the qipao are integrated into the wedding dress, and gradually become a "qipao wedding dress".
Then to the beginning of the 21st century, the fashion trend of "Xiuhe dress" as a wedding dress is becoming more and more obvious, mainly based on red and platinum collocation, the more retro "phoenix crown" gradually appeared, retro wedding has become one of the main choices of the public.
In recent years, due to the inheritance and promotion of traditional culture, Hanfu has once again become one of the regular clothes that many people are willing to wear, and there is no fixed dynastic distinction. Gradually, many people also choose Hanfu as a wedding dress, and all etiquette also draws on the regulations of ancient times, with grandeur and domineering, profound cultural heritage, and full sense of ceremony.
Culture shock and exchange
Whether it is ancient, modern, contemporary, or wedding dress, regular clothes and uniforms, in fact, it has been constantly changing. These changes are generally related to the development of the times.
Over time, many factors will slowly be brought to the surface, affecting some of the material carriers of human civilization. For example, the main beliefs and social atmosphere at a certain stage, the level and mode of national development, cultural exchanges and dissemination, etc.