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Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years

Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years

Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years

Author: Chunmei Fox

Published "Illustrated Traditional Chinese Costumes"

Previously, in "#Cloudfeather Wakaze#: The "Hunting" and "Anti-Black" of Film and Television, what is behind the fanaticism that drowns the national style? "Relying on the old and selling the old" said that he has been fighting fake movies and television (and Hanfu) for almost 20 years, so this issue is an incomplete inventory.

Some of them were written later, others are currently only "underwater", and some of them may have developed less strongly Japanese characteristics before they surfaced. There are some who are clearly still in the situation of zzzq, so let's try to find it from the clues of previous and future articles, I'm afraid this number is gone.

Costumes

There are several main reasons for the similarity of clothing to Japanese style:

(1) Imitate or even copy in cut;

(2) Use directly on the fabric (including pattern design), or follow Japanese aesthetic ideas;

(3) Simulation of dressing and matching methods, and simulation of photo poses.

Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years

△ Popular Hanfu clothing in the early and middle period

The surface "hunting waku" target caused by these reasons is, why use the sleeve of the kimono? Why use a Japanese belt? Why do you use Japanese patterns? Why sit on your knees in a Japanese position? ...... Often encounter such problems, the refuting side will take out some so-called Chinese images (many times taken out are not cultural relics), to prove that China has square sleeves, China has wide belts, China also uses chrysanthemums and cranes, China also has kneeling figurines, and so on.

The reason why "hunting" and "anti-black" can fight and are indistinguishable is because both sides hit the surface of the water and rarely look at underwater problems.

Taking fabric patterns as an example, there are few restored style fabrics available on the market (especially in the early years), so it is more convenient and affordable for the crew or merchants to directly purchase fabrics from the Japanese (or other countries such as South Korea) market. It is difficult to tell whether this is well-intentioned ignorance or malicious substitution of China.

For example, in the 2017 costume drama "Si Meiren", you can hold the sleeve of Japanese fabric to shoot character posters for a while, and you can also break up the application of archaeological patterns for a while, if you only focus on the motivation under one of the behaviors to dig deeper, you can get diametrically opposed reviews.

Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years

For dramas like "Si Meiren", the fundamental reason is aesthetic ignorance. "#Cloud Feather Wind#: The "hunting waku" and "anti-black" of film and television, what is behind the fanaticism that drowns the national style? has shared this view: when film and television need a large number of props for decoration, and the designer himself lacks an understanding of Chinese culture, then the "culture" that the designer has been exposed to and understood in the process of growing up will emerge at this time and be revealed under the designer's pen.

The wide belt too, although it is rarely seen in the film and television "Hunter" at present, because it is full of screens. Film and television "Hunter" is often related to the fight in the fan circle, and everyone does not want "Boomerang" to hit their favorite dramas.

Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years

The existence of wide belts is due to the inability of modern people to resolve the contradiction between the closure system of costumes (and Hanfu) and waist modification. The clothing that modern people contact is mainly three-dimensional tailoring, and there are no wrinkles, redundancies, looseness and other factors that modern people think are visually unsightly that may occur after the wide clothing is closed. Flattening with a wide waistband in one step, or hiding small mechanisms such as elastic bands and concealed buckles that may exist inside, is the easiest way you can think of.

Even more hidden than these are self-brainwashed imitations:

Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years

Anyone who looks at this picture is very Japanese-style, but merchant fans driven by merchants and subcultures will repeatedly tell you that the style of this dress is Chinese, and this crane flower is Chinese, so this whole body is Chinese. In fact, from the composition of the pattern to the way of dressing, to the dressing and posture of the models in the seller show, they are all imitating Japanese culture. Because as long as you trace back to the original appearance, whether it is a kimono or an ancient Chinese costume image, you will find that the two are very different, so it is clear which side the aesthetic of the final effect alcohol is close to.

Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years

To put it bluntly, the merchant sold it in the Japanese style, and the buyer also bought it with Hari enthusiasm, but in the end, the two sides brainwashed each other, jointly identified themselves as a traditional and innovative Chinese style, and the three parties of buying and selling fans joined hands to cover other doubts.

It is not a sin to like and learn Japanese culture, which is why I am not entirely in favor of "hunting waku", but the consequences of confusing Chinese and Japanese culture require a lot of effort to clarify, and more importantly, "confusion" will further drown out or even stigmatize Chinese styles that were not valued by netizens, such as traditional Chinese pastries that are overwhelmed by Japanese sweets. Cultural inheritance is a limited resource of the times, and not every culture can be assigned to the baton of the times, giving many people the Japanese culture that they want to maintain in the name of China, and the real Chinese culture has no place.

Accessories

Accessories are more to take, but there is no lack of "Tianguan" and other Chinese film and television dramas that have begun to affect the aesthetics of costume dramas after a long time.

Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years

Whether Tianguan was brought to the Chinese film and television industry by Emi Wada is difficult to verify, but it is indeed very popular with costume dramas, and the reason may be that the costume is convenient and gorgeous. After all, just tie a ball head and buckle it up. And the crown has a lot of overhanging, hanging decorations, which is also in line with the wishes of ancient style lovers, after all, costume dramas can be sold in the market or have to complete the needs of dreaming for the audience, and the audience is more looking forward to the wonderful dream, not the nationality of the dream.

Although the crown of heaven has become the iconic object of "hunting the womboo", it does not shake its deep soil in film and television dramas, because this dress up mode has penetrated into the hearts of film and television creators.

Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years

Even the movie "Fengshen "Fengsheng", which has been said to be engaged in Chinese culture and invested a huge amount, can still be made into a heavenly crown in the final effect presentation on the basis of the original painting, which makes people cry and laugh.

Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years

If you persuade to use Japanese fabrics, sometimes it is a last resort in financial and human resources, and using Japanese accessories is basically lazy and incompetent.

The widespread use of Japanese accessories and the attention paid to was "The Legend of Wu Meiniang", which also sparked a wave of discussion about whether the joinery hairpins were Chinese, familiar tastes, or familiar recipes.

Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years

Many people may not know that even in such a costume drama, accessories are not only Japanese, but also Korean.

Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years

△ "The Legend of Wu Meiniang"

Therefore, these stylists do not care whether Japan or Korea, they simply do not expect themselves. In addition to geisha and other groups that can be preserved, many of Japan's costumes have been modernized, and the procurement of accessories is not as good as that of South Korea, but like the early fake film and television "Wafeng", before "I have a wish, insert these hairpins back into Korea!" "Tang Brick" and "Han Hairpin", this time it is the turn of the procurement back pot! | Drama Persuasion and Decoration History" and other articles have been reported by organizations such as the phenomenon of cultural export, and many platforms have also been reported and deleted. Many things are difficult because there is a group of people who seem to be holding the banner of great glory and righteousness, and they are instigated to do the darkest period.

In this day and age, what kind of hairpins are rolled up, but stylists will only go to Japan and Korea to directly purchase those things that may have been made in China, regardless of cultural attributes, at least they believe that those are exquisite in their bones.

Women have jewelry, men have hair crowns.

Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years

Compared to other elements, black hats and small crowns are indeed more confusing in appearance, so "Reference to cultural relics, or reference to Japan?" Self-made clever designers and fans can't imagine how easy this is to debunk! I also start from their respective constituent roots, which is also the best solution to many "Sino-Japanese disputes" that I personally feel, although they may not be popular enough, simple and crude enough. The uncle of the Li family, the younger brother of the Zhang family, looks the same does not mean that there is a blood relationship, if you can't do a paternity test, then look at the elders and juniors of their immediate family, and you will find that it is really just a coincidence. Just like Zhu Yuanzhang's portrait, is he a shoehorn face, then look at his son and grandson, a group of Zhu family with national character faces, just out of Zhu Yuanzhang a shoehorn?

In addition to this, in fact, you can also look at the times, but now costume dramas are basically overhead or fiction, and the result is that every time you argue, it is simply a three-dimensional defense system.

Another accessory is clogs, which were also written in the previous article "Tiger Roaring Dragon Song", which is still fighting whether clogs are Chinese, the same taste as before, the same recipe as usual.

Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years

Have you noticed a pattern, and the points of contention are often particularly representative elements of Japanese culture. Probably, probably, perhaps, people don't recognize the elements of Japanese culture.

The matter of clogs is not difficult to crack, less take the so-called restoration of the crappy painter on the Internet as the truth, look at more cultural relics, and look at it together with the archaeological report, you will find that these things are all made out of nothing. Later, I posted a "all kinds of Chinese clogs scattered in memories", or that sentence, cultural inheritance is a limited resource of the times, film and television dramas and Hanfu merchants are doing Japanese-style clogs, for their own reputation and sales to market Japanese clogs are Chinese clogs, then the real Chinese clogs will be more lacking in resources for dissemination and attention.

Makeup

In terms of makeup, whether it is film and television innovation or so-called restoration, it is basically chasing Japan, and the question is whether these makeup looks exist in China itself. This is also a common battle of words in "hunting waku" and "anti-majesty" - you don't see that I am learning from Japan, in fact, I am getting back what China has cut off from Japan.

Some episodes will also use this trick to do some marketing. After all, #Cloud Feather Wakaze# Such a degree of discussion, who is not hungry, all take advantage of these heat first, isn't it fragrant? For example, "#Yulouchunhan Network Comment #Worth a cultural hot search? Or is it a marketing joke? 》

Because the makeup is compared to the clothing, it only has the final image, and the rest is the mouth of netizens. And netizens are just a virtual ID, such as "Chang'an Twelve Hours: Don't be messed up by "geisha makeup"! This time it's about marketing...", the relevant characters have no such ID, as if this trip to Weibo is to evil (camp) heart (pin) "Chang'an Twelve Hours".

Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years

△ Weibo screenshot

In recent years, there has been a similar effect, and "Fengqi Longxi: #Angelababy Fengqi Longxi Le Ji Makeup #" on the hot search, what kind of makeup is it? 》：

Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years

△ Weibo screenshot

Compared with the deliberate white face of "The Great Emperor of Hanwu", Yang Ying's makeup is not very different from many ancient puppet dramas, but people still want to lean on this. After all, the drama needs heat, and the fan circle needs the cohesion brought by the sense of persecution, which is why the opposite of "hunting the wa" is not to promote Chinese culture, but to "anti-black", take a look in the mirror to find out that you are Zhu Bajie.

The problem of film and television makeup is actually far less big than that of marketing, not because makeup artists know Chinese culture better, but because the current film and television environment is too much to eat. Take Yang Ying's face, it can be Chinese or Japanese, but it can't be ugly, fans and investment are coming to the face.

The bigger problem is the so-called restorative makeup. In recent years, domestic restoration has been modeled after the restoration of Japan a hundred years ago. The overall shooting method and the restoration style of the early years are all imitated by Japanese practices.

Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years

△ Domestic restoration works

Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years

△ Japanese reconstruction

Of course, this in itself is not a big problem, after all, we do not rub the road that people step on. The problem is that this form has produced a perception that has a great influence on makeup, that is, painting a large white face is more ancient. How difficult it is to restore the real ancient meaning or down-to-earth, so first paint the face white and rub the red eye shadow.

Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years
Film and television dramas and the inventory of the Hanfu circle: the strange phenomenon witnessed in twenty years

△ Japanese reconstruction

Therefore, even if it is necessary to "hunt for the wako" and correct the problem of "replacing China with the wa", it is far from being as simple as many people think, many things are conceptual, it is already difficult to recognize that there are problems in the concept, and it is even more painful to systematically correct it and smash people's jobs.

This has to mention my personal feelings, fighting fake bonobos (and stick wind) is actually a very risky thing. Although everyone looks at the "sniping" on the Internet "Cloud Feather" and "My Name is Liu Jinfeng" in the wind seems to echo, although tens of millions of fans are unstoppable, but that is more to follow the anti-Japanese sentiment, in fact, the article also analyzed, most people do not have the ability to distinguish.

In addition, many Japanese styles in the early stage itself is in an academic authentic face for marketing promotion, which leads to a certain element is waku or hua, wind reviews are very extreme, may be today is still "eyes do not know the ancestors", tomorrow is "wawa instead of hua", the day after tomorrow is "ancestors". The result of all kinds of repeated jumps is that people like us are very embarrassed, anyway, I look at my reputation in some super talk and certain groups, one moment is the vanguard, the other is a sunspot. It is clear that I think 20 years ago, 10 years ago, 5 years ago and yesterday scolded the same, scolding me so cliché that everyone will not get tired of it? But it turns out that the freshness is given by the ass of those who are tossing and turning.

【End of full text】

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