Hanfu makeup artist: Look for Hanfu makeup inspiration in history and culture

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Hyun Shan, the manager of Changsha Dongjun Cultural Studio, is a disciple of Mr. Yang Shuyun, the "world's first comb".

Linggu, Xunfeng Culture Dance Art Consultant.

Testimonials: Put on hanfu, do the corresponding makeup, you will find a new self. Hanfu is a traditional logo, is the epitome of culture, to learn and explore more deeply, in order to truly inherit the culture from me.

Changsha Evening News all-media reporter Hong Hong

19 years ago, a folk person named Wang Lotte put a set of traditional Han costumes imitated according to "The Son of the Great Han" on the streets of Zhengzhou, which aroused strong attention from people from all walks of life and the media. Since then, after more than 300 years of bleak and lost life, Hanfu has ushered in a revival.

Today, walking through the streets and alleys of Changsha, it is not uncommon for men and women to travel in Hanfu. Which dynasty did the costumes belong to? Makeup and hair stylists do not match the identity? Where is the Hanfu show more professional? The issues that everyone is concerned about are also getting deeper and deeper, and they are becoming more and more professional.

The Hanfu fever has spawned a huge market and spawned a new profession: Hanfu makeup artist. This early summer, the reporter followed two Hanfu makeup artists in Changsha to unveil the mystery of this profession for everyone.

Fascinated: Fall in love with Chinese elegance

"When I was a child, I liked to watch the White Lady the most, and I often played the game of draping sheets with the children at home, and put my hair on the plate, feeling that I was a fairy fluttering fairy!" The vast majority of Hanfu makeup artists are developed from Hanfu enthusiasts, and many Hanfu enthusiasts are obsessed with costume dressing as children, and Xuan Shan is no exception.

In 2018, Xuan Shan, who had a stable job in a central enterprise, resigned and invested more than 300,000 yuan with her partners to establish Changsha Dongjun Culture, while undertaking projects such as Hanfu makeup shooting, Hanfu cultural activity planning and execution, and at the same time carrying out Hanfu cultural public welfare promotion.

At first, the family was very puzzled, and also cut off Hyun-san's living expenses: don't put a good end of the "iron rice bowl", "nothing" "costume" can play what famous?

Hyun San wants to prove her choice. Through the introductory knowledge she learned from her time in the Hanfu circle as a student, she managed the studio well. Only Hanfu makeup this piece, a year income of more than 100,000 yuan.

Linggu "entered the pit" Hanfu in 2014 while studying abroad at the University of Surrey in the United Kingdom. Once, the local Hanfu Association issued an invitation to her, a classical dance major: Can you put on Hanfu and perform a dance for local and Chinese audiences? For the first time in her life, she wore a piece of quilt (a style of Hanfu) prepared for her by the organizers. After this dance, local non-profit organizations invited her to various charity dinners. Every time the dinner party ends, the locals can't wait to try on Hanfu and exclaim: "Chinese is so elegant!" ”

Since then, he has put on Hanfu to shoot promotional videos in various places, and planned and organized Hanfu promotion activities in many cities... Whether it is further study or longing for hometown, Hanfu has become an important carrier and sustenance in the daily life of Linggu.

From the mainstream clothing thousands of years ago to the revival in recent years, the Hanfu industry has been warmly welcomed by young people and capital. According to the data, there were only 2 million Hanfu enthusiasts in China in 2018, and this number has reached nearly 7 million in 2021.

In 2017, Hyun Shan and Ling Gu met in Changsha.

Occupation: Easy to get started and difficult to master

"Hanfu actually does not refer to the costumes of the Han Dynasty, but the traditional costumes of our Han people." Linggu said that there are many and complex styles of Hanfu, as well as dresses, regular clothes, and special costumes, which are more subdivided, mainly including three categories: "deep clothes" system (tops and bottom clothes sewn together), "tops and bottoms" system (tops and bottoms are separated), and "skirts" (short clothes).

Han Dynasty pop song, Tang Dynasty popular full-breasted skirt, Song Dynasty popular hundred-fold skirt, Song pants; Sheng Tang makeup is strong and bright, there are more than 40 kinds of eyebrow shapes, Ming Dynasty makeup is light and elegant... For the beginner Hanfu makeup artists, it is the basic skill to familiarize themselves with the different styles and makeup characteristics of Hanfu in various dynasties. However, the longer she "went into the pit", the more Hyun Shan realized that if she wanted to become a good Hanfu makeup artist, her knowledge was not enough.

In 2020, the epidemic struck. Taking advantage of the fact that the studio business was not busy, Hyun Shan made a decision: to go to Suzhou to learn art. It became one of the most important decisions of her life. Master's name is Yang Shuyun, a famous Chinese costume artist, who took on the costume design of "Dream of the Red Chamber" in 1986, and has the reputation of "the first comb in the world".

Under the guidance of the master, from the makeup details of different dynasties, the etiquette, to the history and culture, and then to the homemade jewelry with Linggu, Hyun San began to systematically learn the knowledge of makeup. "It is necessary to take a lot of make-up lessons, read historical and cultural books of various dynasties, and art books to improve aesthetic ability, so that we can apply what we have learned."

Especially in the process of learning Hanfu restoration makeup, Hyun Shan herself became a Hanfu model. She and her team restored a large number of Hanfu makeup, including the picture of the lady of the hairpin flower, the mural of the Yongle Palace for the flower jade girl, etc., promoted the restoration of Hanfu makeup throughout the country, and was also interviewed by CCTV.

Today, Hyun-san's studio has more than 500 sets of Hanfu and offers makeup packages ranging from hundreds to thousands of yuan. "The type that everyone likes is not necessarily suitable, such as petite girls, we are not very good at recommending curls, we will press height, and the temperament may not match." When guests enter the store, Hyun San will recommend makeup suitable for each other according to the facial features and temperament of the guests, rather than blindly catering to the tastes of the guests. Some guests want to match the clothing, jewelry, and makeup at will, and Hyun San will also kindly remind that a set of styles cannot be "crossed" between dynasties, and the original taste is the essence of Hanfu makeup.

Culture: It is the industry that is more confident

Yanghu Water Street New National Chao Hanfu Cultural Festival, Tongguan Kiln Dream Han Tang Dynasty... In the past two years, many holidays, Linggu has "soaked" in the major Hanfu cultural festivals in Changsha. "On Yanghu Water Street, I sold hanfu butterfly accessories by hand myself for more than 1,000 yuan a day." Hanfu makeup is a part-time job in Linggu, and her hobbies can bring some income, which makes her feel fulfilled and fulfilled.

Compared with part-time work, in Changsha, although the entry threshold for full-time Hanfu makeup artists is low, the later systematic learning generally takes several years, and the cost of learning is tens of thousands of yuan. "Spring and autumn are the peak season, summer is lighter, and more and more people are shooting in winter." Hyun Shan said that if Hanfu makeup artists want to win the market, in addition to their own aesthetics and cultivation, the business scope, scale, brand and publicity are very important.

Therefore, Hyun Shan is planning to upgrade her existing studio and choose a new site to build a Hanfu culture promotion center, guests come here, in addition to being able to understand Hanfu culture, make up, take beautiful photos, talk about tea, but also customize Hanfu performances, shows and related activities planning and execution.

"For whether Hanfu wants to enter everyone's daily life, there is a saying called 'starting from the appearance, trapped in the connotation, and finally practical'." In Linggu's view, in recent years, Hanfu makeup has become increasingly lifelike, and for many young people, Hanfu has even become a daily wear. This kind of nature is not deliberate, conveying the deep cultural self-confidence of young people.

Xuan Shan and Linggu found that some subtle changes were happening: once, Xuan Shan and her friends were shopping in Hanfu on Changsha Huangxing Road Pedestrian Street, and Jiao Yu pointed and asked why she was wearing a "kimono", and a six- or seven-year-old child next to her quickly corrected "This is not a kimono but a Hanfu", which made Hyun San surprised and happy. Linggu's Hanfu classical dance class in the community has welcomed more and more young people this year, and the original dance textbook "Poetry and Dance" has also been popular on the Internet – which makes them more determined to continue on this road.