This article is written by: Spring Plum Fox
(The number of full text is about 3.3K, the number of pictures is about 60)
The ancients wore robes with large sleeves, and always put silver and other objects in the sleeves without falling, why?
In ancient times, those who took silver out to spend money were all outliers!
Put the "robe wide sleeves of the ancients out of the door how to put silver in order not to lose?" Turn it out, expand the content a little, and try to make this matter clearer (and for a follow-up spit to spread the extension, please see my sly gaze, hehe).
Ancients: I don't wear a "robe with big sleeves"!
The prerequisite for this problem is problematic, because the ancients really rarely wore "robes with big sleeves". Especially this sleeve, the size of the sleeves of the flat hands in the TV series are almost hanging on the ground, even the ancient nobles who do not produce do not wear it, and the nobles' dresses will not be blindly worn out of the house.
△ Stills of "And Try the World"
What you find inconvenient, the ancients also felt very inconvenient!
To say that the sleeves of the ancients are the most obvious differences in wearing experience compared to modern clothing, my personal feeling is that the sleeves are long, and the sleeves of the ancients can be narrow, but they must be long. Anti-brain spray, again, this length is for modern clothing sleeves long to the wrist even if the sleeves are long.
For example, when some people give examples of the things hidden in the sleeves of the ancients, they will give examples of the so-called hidden arrows. The information I found, the length of the Hidden Arrow is 25 centimeters, or it needs to be held by hand to promote the hair. In this case, the sleeve length of the ancients can still be hidden, even if its popularity time is the Qing Dynasty.
△ Illustrated Catalogue of Traditional Chinese Weapons
But the sleeves of costume dramas are short and large, which is a completely different logic. In addition to the embarrassment that we have complained about a lot before, which will lead to the inner layer of valgus, this pull design that takes into account the X and considers the practicality of the actors is the main reason why many audiences and ancients "wide robes and large sleeves" go around.
△ Stills of "Wishing You Well"
Ancients: I don't take silver out of the house!
Taking the silver out for a stroll, the setting itself is also very modern. Despite the ups and downs of ancient prices, silver was always a currency with a larger denomination, and was only used in larger transactions, rather than taking a handful with it when going out like a costume drama.
△ This practice of scattering silver tickets and silver dollar treasures everywhere is very fictitious
Because the denomination of silver is so large that it is impossible to add or subtract directly like copper coins, it is also troublesome to use silver for scattered payments. The ancients would generally prepare a special pair of scissors to hinge the silver into "loose broken silver", and then prepare a relatively small scale "crushed silver" to weigh the broken silver.
△ Chopper
Moreover, as long as it is silver, it will involve problems such as color and counterfeiting. For example, after the broken silver is broken, it is more conducive to checking whether other metals such as lead with a similar proportion to a relatively low value are mixed. After each transaction, there will also be a lot of very small silver chips, which are also valuable, need to be collected, saved to a certain extent and then melted into large pieces.
In ancient times, the use of copper coins would be more common, and the design of the copper coins themselves has already considered the problem of carrying.
△ Strings of copper coins
Online related questions, never ask how to bring copper coins, ask about silver. In the case of silver is particularly scattered, it is of course not appropriate to put it in the sleeve, and the ancients would sometimes bring a wax block, just like the dough dipped in flour to collect these silver scraps, which is convenient for accumulating less into more.
△ Stills of "Celebrating the Rest of the Year"
In fact, because the setting of pulling out of the sleeve is too outrageous, many costume dramas do not use it much. Because letting the actors blindly pull them out of their sleeves is too unscathy and neat compared to the plot setting of using silver to "throw a thousand gold". Therefore, more and more costume dramas now actually let the actors take silver from the very wide belt. Of course, the ancients did not have this belt.
Ancients: I actually don't have anything to buy when I go out
Silver was sometimes more symbolic in ancient times, and the circulation was not so high, such as making silver beans, which were only used as rewards in the court. It's like, the big brother brushes you a big rocket, it's valuable, but you can't actually use the big rocket to buy things directly.
Some dynasties also forbade the use of silver by commoners. In order to promote bao banknotes in the Ming Dynasty, it issued a ban on "trading silver and silver, and committing the same evil as the party". However, after the middle of the Ming Dynasty, silver as a relatively high-value trading currency is more common, but small transactions are still used in copper coins.
△ Daming Treasure Banknote
In addition, not only copper coins and currency were used in ancient circulation, but cloth, grain, etc. could also be used as hard currency for trading. Bartering was common in ancient times, but as you may have discovered recently, this is actually indispensable in modern times. Because once the trading market is not broad enough, barter is more convenient.
Previously, "In Search of the "Flower Dynasty Festival": How to Return to Those Forgotten Traditional Festivals? It is mentioned that festivals in many areas have been preserved because of the role of a temple fair market to support its practical value. Ancient trade is certainly not as convenient as modern people, open the orange app, even in the early morning can also place orders, the ancients need to go to a specific place at a specific time to catch the market. When you go with the items you need to trade, do you still wonder where the silver two should be?
△ Imperial Capital Jisheng Map
△ Bazaar in 1910
△ 2019 Wuhan Xinzhou Flower Dynasty Market
As for the costume drama, there is a "pedestrian street" on any day, and there are not only fixed storefront merchants on both sides of the street, but also mobile vendors, which is completely fictional. Don't say that the ancients can't do it, and few modern pedestrian streets can do such a dense format! Therefore, in order to fill the picture, the costume drama can be made.
Ancients: There is actually nothing in the sleeve
Every time this topic is mentioned, Hanfu enthusiasts will give examples of a type of fat but closed sleeves. The names of such sleeves are also more numerous, and in the early days of the Hanfu movement, they were mostly called "hanging beard sleeves", and later they were called "pipa sleeves" and "collection".
△ The sleeve shape diagram used in the Hanfu circle
△ Closing design
The name we don't care about it, just to say that this kind of sleeve is the ancient way of going out to bring things, especially with silver? Obviously, not really.
First of all, this form of sleeve does not exist in the entire "ancient", but it is more common in some dynasties, such as the Ming Dynasty, which shows that its style is more popular than the functional appeal. If this is a solution, there is no answer to how other long years of not adopting this sleeve style should be solved.
△ Ming Dynasty costumes
More importantly, there is little evidence that such sleeves bear a similar role. It is true that there are some classical novels that mention the phenomenon of taking things from the sleeve or hiding things in the sleeves, but it is necessary to distinguish them. The ability to implement a function is different from the design made for that function.
△ "Qiankun in the Sleeve" in "Journey to the West"
unbelief? In fact, our ordinary sleeves can also hide things, and in the early years, pickpockets hid tweezers, blades and other crime tools in the sleeves. But we don't think that the narrow cuffs of modern clothing are for the convenience of pickpocketing.
△ J fang demonstrates the practice of hiding tweezers in the sleeve
In addition, the monks in the old photographs still retain this sleeve style, but they often wear this kind of closed sleeves on more solemn occasions, but on ordinary days they wear straight narrow sleeves. Could it be that the monks who were doing things had more things to carry and store than usual, but they didn't need them in normal times? This is also too out of line with the normal daily order!
△ 1919-1919, Gambo photographed the monks of Lingyin Temple
In the same way, in ancient paintings, the high one wears large sleeves with a closed mouth, while the low one wears straight narrow sleeves. Who is so convinced of such illogical conclusions?
Many people actually don't notice that kimonos and hanboks also have similar designs with small cuffs and large sleeves (but kimono sleeves have openings), but how many people really use the sleeves as pockets? Of course, we don't stop anyone from doing that.
Secondly, using this type of sleeve-mounted item is not as easy and convenient as it seems. My personal feeling is that it's okay to hide things, but it's not okay to store and carry things.
Take the modern people's indispensable mobile phone and card bag, leaving a tie hanging on the wrist, the item is hidden in the sleeve, but the outside does not show the hand or only the hand, it is more convenient to find and use. But if you really use this sleeve as a carry-on cloth bag, the mobile phone card bag is directly rolled into it, and the weight will not only affect the appearance of the sleeve, but also dangle with the action.
Smaller items that are relatively light will not even be found, after all, the cuffs are open, and they cannot be faced up and tied like cloth bags. Do you think that the ancients always wore their sleeves and never waved their arms when they walked?
△ Ming Dynasty Guo Xue "Dongshan with J Map"
And many people ignore the size difference between ancient and modern clothing, in fact, these cuffs may be larger than the sleeves you are wearing now. For example, the costumes in the Ming Dynasty Dingling Tombs, the cuffs are mostly 16-18 cm, and like the Mashan Chu Tomb in the Warring States Period, this data can reach 20-40 cm. Things fell out of the sleeves, much easier than expected.
A large number of similar sleeves also appeared in the recently broadcast "Wind Rises Longxi", which was called "hanging beard sleeves" in the early days of the Hanfu movement. Even in the film and television drama, its opening is still very large, and how to do things safely and do not spill out?
△ Stills of "The Wind Rises longxi"
Many things that seem to be achievable in costume dramas cannot be done in reality. However, for the lovers of ancient costumes, imitating costume dramas will look beautiful and cool, but it is really not life. It is even more impossible to put silver two, as mentioned earlier, the value of silver in ancient times is still very high.
Ancients: I don't have a hidden bag in my sleeve
Some people say that the ancients would sew hidden bags in their sleeves.
△ Screenshot of Weibo
This statement is actually contradictory to the sleeve closure can be stored, if the sleeve can be stored, there is no need to go to the trouble to sew a hidden bag. But ironically, these two contradictory statements often come up at the same time, and those who believe them also believe at the same time.
At present, there is no archaeological evidence to support the ancients' claim that the hidden bag was sewn in the sleeve, and even the size of the hidden bag, how shaped, where the position is, the opening orientation, and so on are also disagreed. So, what has never been seen, how does a large group of people rely on speculation and false rumors?
The internal pocket is sewn inside the sleeve and is not practical at all. If the sleeves are too narrow, such as "Will Night", an example of a fan I found on the Internet, it is simply the same as the other hand is allowed to reach in and take the square.
△ Network pictures
What if the sleeves were supposed to be big, like a diagram drawn by someone online? Because the item is of quality, it will cause the sleeve to twist for the big sleeves. The place with the pouch is the heaviest, it will sag and is not beautiful at all.
△ Network pictures
And how many times do you have to repeat it before you realize that manpower is active? In modern clothing, the pockets sewn on the sleeves are also sewn on the upper arms, because the swing here will be smaller.
Traditional clothing is not completely free of hidden bags, and in modern costumes, hidden bags are sewn at the placket, but not on the sleeves. It will generally be in a position close to the button or hem of the placket that is both concealed and relatively easy to access. A slightly later cheongsam, there are also side pockets, which is more convenient.
Placing a concealed pouch on the placket is also not easy to spoil the appearance of the costume. So many people who think that they can make a hidden bag in their sleeves, have they not thought that there will be traces outside the sleeves? If you can do it on the inside, what kind of screwing should be made inside the sleeve!
Writing this, it is estimated that someone will jump out crying and saying that you have pointed out this wrong and that wrong every time, but never tell (coax) sue (coax) what we are right. Alas, most of the knowledge has to be done on your own, but this can be free - you should bring a bag!
There are belt bags that can be tied around the waist, there are purses that can be hung on the body, and there are folds that can be worn... None of them stopped everyone from using it! Of course, if I don't hate these things enough, and the traces of life are too thick, it is not something I can solve.
As for these solutions, why you can't put down mobile phones, transportation cards, hand creams and the like, there is no answer. Because this is a trouble that belongs to modern people, not the ancients. The ancients did not take these when they went out, and even the ancients did not go out with so many strange bits and pieces, and the trajectory of life was different from that of modern people.
Many troubles are found by modern people, and they may not even be a question. So, before "why", ask "yes or no".
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