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Video source: Douyin @ Gourmet Shandong
Oil swirl, also known as "oil swirl back", is a traditional famous food in Jinan, Shandong, the outer skin is crisp, the inside is tender, the onion is fragrant through the nose, because of its shape like a spiral, the surface oil is golden yellow, so it is called oil swirl.
In the "Yang XiaoLu" compiled by Gu Zhong in the Qing Dynasty, the production of oil spins is recorded as follows: "... And dough as an agent, roll out. Add oil to the ingredient and roll out. Add the oil to the ingredient and roll it out seven more times. The stove is very beautiful. It is said that during the Daoguang years, FengjiLou in Jinan City was an early shop that operated oil spinners, and the "WenshengYuan" restaurant opened in Guangxu for 20 years was once famous for operating many local snacks such as oil spinners.
Jinan people eat oil swirling is mostly eaten while hot, and then accompanied by a bowl of chicken shredded ravioli, which can be described as inexpensive and wonderful. There are two kinds of oil spins: round and oval. More delicate, after the oil spin matures, poke a hole, bump into an egg, and then bake in the oven for a while, the egg and the oil spin become one, and the food is more beautiful.
According to legend, the oil swirl was learned in Nanjing when the three xu brothers (now Qihe County) went to the south during the Qing Dynasty, and the taste of the oil swirl in the south was sweet, and the Xu brothers changed the taste of the oil swirl to salty flavor according to the dietary characteristics of the northerners after coming to Jinan, which has been passed down to this day.
Poster Maker: Lin Zhao, Shandong University of Finance and Economics
In addition to the famous oil swirl, there is also an equally exquisite pastry that is also a traditional snack in Jinan- qing oil plate silk cake. When it comes to clear oil plate silk cake, many young people living in Jinan may feel strange. Qing oil plate silk cake is also called pan silk cake, clear oil cake, the old Jinan people commonly known as "a nest of silk". Pan silk cake is a noodle cake made by blending the kung fu of noodles into the oil baking process, which is said to have been passed down from old Beijing. To make a pan silk cake, you must first know the knowledge of the noodles, and how much alkali, salt and water must be added to the noodles should be adjusted according to the season and the degree of dryness and humidity of the air.
After "waking up" the reconciled noodles for a while, roll the dough into long strips, grab the two ends of the long strips and beat them repeatedly on the board and in the air. After pulling to a certain extent, the noodles are cut into small pieces of 15 cm, and then repeatedly pulled to eight or nine buckles, hundreds of hair-thin "dragon's whisker noodles" are formed, brushed with oil on it once, cut into several segments with a knife, and then the dough is coiled in a circle into a cake shape and placed in a hammer (a layer of peanut oil is also brushed when baking). When eating, sprinkle with white sugar or green and red silk, hold the plate of silk cake in your hand and gently squeeze it, and a thousand uniform "golden wires" are like thin chrysanthemum petals gently spreading out. Send it to your mouth and feel that the outside is burnt and tender, crisp and refreshing.
Liang Shiqiu, a modern Chinese essayist, was deeply impressed by shandong's qingyou pan silk cake, as evidenced by words: "Qingyou cake is actually not a cake." It is a thin noodle that is coiled up into a pile, gently pressed to form a cake shape, and then fried in the pan and burned to become a browned lump. The outside is crisp and hard, the inside is still soft. Shandong Guanzi is the best at this. I think the ideal way to eat it is to have one oil cake per person, and then a bowl of braised shrimp or two shredded chickens, which are poured on the cake (Liang Shiqiu Prose Compendium). ”
In the 1930s, the "Another New Restaurant" at the intersection of Jinan's JingsanweiSi Road was famous for its specialty of clear oil pan silk cakes. In 1949, at the age of 16, Ji Shanxiang came to "Another New Restaurant" and worked as a fireman, and later learned to make pan silk cakes with Master Wang Qingguo, the "King of Pastry" invited from Peiping at that time. In the 1950s, "Another New Restaurant" was famous for its pastry, and in addition to the pans and silk cakes, the crystal cakes, lotus leaf cakes and pies operated in the shops were also popular with the citizens of Jinan. Because the "Another New Restaurant" has a heavier taste in Beijing, Mei Lanfang, a master of Peking Opera art in China, and Shang Xiaoyun, Xi Xiaobo, and other famous actors such as Peking Opera performing artists often patronize "Another New" after singing at the Jinan Beiyang Grand Theater and taste the pan silk cake.
(Dazhong Daily client reporter Zhang Chen, Li Xinxin, finished the report)