Talk about oil spins.
Friends in the north, should have seen many of the oil swirl this snack. It is like a burnt cake, not a baked cake, like an oil cake not an oil cake. It is best to eat it as soon as it comes out of the oven, at this time the outer skin is crispy, the inside is soft and tender, and the oil is overflowing. In Luoyang, it can be served with donkey broth, rice noodles, wontons, peppery soup, etc., and it is very hungry.
In Jinan, the oil spin is more famous and the workmanship is more refined. Its name also comes from the fact that it resembles a spiral, like a small bowl. Although Jinan people usually eat chicken ravioli, some people who can eat it will beat an egg into the oil swirl and put it in the oven for a while. In this way, the egg and the oil swirl into one, and the level of taste and texture is upgraded.
But do you know what the history of the oil spin has?
The origin of the oil swirl is generally believed to have appeared as early as the Qing Dynasty's "Yang Xiaolu", which has a history of more than 150 years. However, when you really flip through the book, you will find that this conclusion is too arbitrary. It is true that the oil swirl is recorded in the "Yang XiaoLu", but...
Jinfu mille-feuille oil swirl pancake
One pound of white noodles, two or two of sugar (hydrated open), four or two of sesame oil, and noodles as an agent, rolled out, then into the oil into the agent, rolled open, then into the oil into the agent, and then rolled, so seven times, the fire is very beautiful.
This so-called "Jinfu Mille-feuille Oil Spinning Pancake" is the Oil Spinning Cake? I didn't go to school, don't lie to me, this is simply a sweet mille-feuille oil cake okay?
But where the oil swirls, although there are differences in various places, there must be these two characteristics:
It takes a certain thickness to form a circle of high, low bowl-shaped spirals in the middle.
Although the oil spinner has a process of branding, but it is mainly for the purpose of shaping, its most important ripening process is baking.
So in a sense, the oil swirl is closer to the burnt cake than to the oil cake. What is recorded in the "Yang XiaoLu" is obviously just a similarity in name. This is the same as the word curd milk that already appeared in the Spring and Autumn Period, in fact, it is completely different from the current curd milk.
Probably because this snack is so humble, the origin of the oil swirl has reached this point, and no one is willing to study it anymore. So when exactly did the oil spin appear? Looking around, I finally found the "Pansi Baked Cake" in the Ming Dynasty museum Zhang Lanzhi's "Glimpse of the Lazy Garden".
Plate of shredded baked cakes
Cold water and noodles, pound noodles water five two. Lu di scallions in half white and green, and lard chopped puree. One or two noodles, rolled out like beef tongue. Homogenize the salt, slush, roll like a drum. Flatten, roll out the beef tongue, then evenly salt, slush, roll drum. And so on. Sesame oil on the bottom, yellowish on both sides, that is, baked in the oven. To be out, in the middle pressure of a nest, strong as a small bowl, the bowl inside the dish silk up to 100 layers also.
I'll translate it into the vernacular:
First of all, use cold water and noodles, a pound of noodles and a half pounds of water. Shandong green onions, green onions, white and green, take half of each, and make a puree together with the pork plate oil.
After the noodles are alive, one or two of a potion are rolled out into long strips like cow's tongue. Then coated with salt and lard onion puree, slowly rolled up into a round drum shape. Then it is flattened, then rolled out into long strips, then salted and sludge, and rolled up into a drum, a process that needs to be repeated two or three times.
The cake blank is first placed on an iron chain and the sides are fried to a pale yellow. Then bake in the oven until cooked.
When it is taken out, because the temperature inside the furnace is high and the temperature outside the furnace is low, as long as you press it in the middle of the cake at this time, the cake will naturally collapse and become a small bowl. The inside of the small bowl will form a layer like a coil, up to a hundred and ten layers.
For a long time, people either ignored this record or interpreted it as a silk cake. In fact, the so-called pan silk baked cake is almost the standard operation of oil spin teaching. Moreover, it can be seen from the process that the oil spin was born from the burnt cake, and the "oil spin" recorded in the "Yang Xiao Lu" has no half-cent relationship at all.
When talking about the origin of the oil spin, Zhang Lanzhi said that he was first invented by a Shanxi master who made baked cakes in Nanjing. This master originally opened a noodle stall in Zunhua and sold some roasted cakes and tea to eat. As a result, two years after Chongzhen, the Jin army captured Zunhua and drove straight into the city of Beijing. In order to avoid the military disaster, he traveled all the way south, and finally reached Nanjing, and began to make a living by making a living by making a dish of silk and baking cakes.
At that time, it was not called pan silk baked cake, but bluntly called bowl cake. Because this master found that as long as the bowl cake is baked with crispy caramel and tight seams, you can put pickle sauce meat in the middle depression, and even pour into the broth porridge will not leak.
In this way, it is too convenient for guests to eat, hand support, a bite of cake, a bite of vegetables, bowls and chopsticks are all omitted. After eating a hand pat, clean and clean how much trouble?
The picture comes from the Internet, invaded and deleted
This way the timeline will be aligned. Because this statement coincides with the origin of the Jinan oil swirl. About 200 years later, the first xu brothers to run an oil spinner in Jinan returned from Nanjing. Their stepfather, on the other hand, ran an oil spinning shop in Nanjing. Since then, Xujia Oil Swirl has become famous and has become a well-known special snack in Jinan.
Write at the end:
Can you imagine that? From style to form, it is the oil swirl of standard northern snacks, which was actually invented in Nanjing. But eventually the oil boomerang returned to the north and was able to develop further. This illustrates a truth: the invention, introduction, of a food is destined to withstand the tempering of local tastes. At the same time, the original taste is improved, so as to gain the acceptance of the largest audience.
Unfortunately, this kind of historical snack, which originated from Nanjing to Jinan and eventually spread from Jinan (insufficient evidence) throughout the north, became extinct in Nanjing. The rise and fall of Chinese food culture and the cruelty of its evolution can really be seen.
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