I love this Jinan pan silk cake.
At first glance, it is a small yellow and brilliant flower, like the first petals, slightly blooming, and then look closely, but it is a circle of filaments circling around, like a delicate flower bud like a girl's hair.
Once in the middle of summer, tiger took CCTV's "Legend of Foodie" column to Jinan's Quancheng Hotel to shoot a plate of silk cakes, ready, with a bright red lotus bud that has not yet bloomed, a piece of emerald green fresh lotus leaves and a fresh lotus canopy to lay the bottom, a few yellow brilliant fine and crispy plate silk cakes placed on it, before tasting, it is beautiful.
Carefully take one, lest it scatter and break the delicate cake silk, the entrance, the wisps but touch the teeth that are broken, jumping naughtily between the lips and teeth, first the crisp feeling, then the fragrance of the wheat noodles, then the faint sweetness, and finally the oil fragrance of the oil, just like a song of "Spring River Flower Moon Night", the plain hand clears the bullet, and like the breeze of Daming Lake blowing across the lake, it is slightly whisked over the tip of the tongue layer by layer, really good.
How can this elegant look, this sweet taste, not love? Mr. Mei Lanfang and Mr. Shang Xiaoyun once came to Jinan Beiyang Grand Theater to sing, and ate a plate of silk cakes in a "nother new" restaurant, which was also a taste and shocked, full of praise. Even Mr. Liang Shiqiu loves it, and in one of his "Flapjacks", he also specifically mentioned the pan silk cake, "The oil cake is actually not a cake." It is a thin noodle that is coiled up into a pile, gently pressed to form a cake shape, and then fried in the pan and burned to become a browned lump. The outside is crisp and hard, the inside is still soft. Shandong Guanzi is the best at this. I think the ideal way to eat it is to have one oil cake per person, and then a bowl of braised shrimp or two shredded chicken braised, and pour it on the cake. ”
Mr. Liang Shiqiu said that this oil plate silk cake is very delicate, so it is also extremely cumbersome to make, the so-called "plate silk" refers to the noodles to be extremely thin, as thin as silver silk dragon whiskers, as Huang Tingjian said in a poem "soup cake a cup of silver silk chaos, silk like a jade hairpin horizontal", so this plate of silk cake also has a name called "a nest of silk". The so-called "clear oil", is relative to the meat oil, when making a plate silk cake, the good noodles should be brushed with oil to prevent adhesion, and then plated into a round frying, the meat oil will cool and solidify, so it is not advisable, and Shandong is rich in peanuts, peanut oil is fragrant, and the plate silk cake is the most fragrant.
Tiger twice took CCTV to shoot a plate of silk cakes, had the privilege of observing the practice, was very impressed, took new wheat flour, warm hydration salt, if it is sweet, it will melt sugar water, slowly pour in, stir evenly, knead the noodles three lights, a little bit of food, re-knead it, rub the long strips with a diameter of about 3 inches, dissolve the alkali powder into warm water, smear on the long noodles, grab both ends of the noodles, beat the noodles, wave in mid-air, if repeated several times, straight like a silver snake dancing wildly, and then fold the two ends in half, shake up and down slightly, pull outward to more than half a zhang, cross the fingers of both hands, pull and sprinkle the noodles at both ends of the noodles Folding in half, pulling, so repeatedly, under the shaking, it is like a terrifying wave, which is amazing. Looking at its process, kneading, rubbing, falling, beating, rolling, pulling, buckling, no less than steel and steel, great work and jade.
At this point, the roots of the noodles are as thin as hair, up to a thousand hundred, the two ends of the noodles are removed, take the sharp blade, according to the dose of the dough silk segmented, immersed in clear oil, or waving brush, dipped in freshly squeezed peanut oil, fine brushed, slightly, from the end of the dough section, pull the noodle silk, clockwise coiled, rolled into a circle, the other end pressed under the dough agent, gently pressed by hand, into a three-inch diameter of more than three inches of round cake, at this point, the coiled silk cake blank is good.
The cake blank is ready, iron frying, less into the vegetarian oil, burned to 60%, plate the cake blank, put in turn, burn one side on medium heat, wait for the yellow to stand up, hold the spatula, turn over the reverse side, yellow on both sides, add vegetarian oil, keep the heat in the hammer until golden brown.
Baked plate silk cake, slightly let cool, with a chopstick slightly poke the cake core, squeeze with your hand, shake the silk open, put into the plate, a thousand thin "golden wire" like chrysanthemum petals gently spread out, sprinkled with sugar, green and red silk, the noodle strips are fine and even, the silk is not harmonious, continuous, not chaotic, golden and translucent, sent to the mouth, suddenly feel countless thin dough in the mouth broken, crisp and sweet, sweet and refreshing. This is a sweet plate of silk cake, when the snack to eat, Mr. Liang Shiqiu said that the oil cake with braised shrimp or braised two chicken shreds, that is more homely, do the staple pasta to eat, eat the outer layer crisp, the inner is oily and soft, when the dough silk does not need to be too fine.
Speaking of which, let's talk about the braised two chicken shreds that Mr. Liang Shiqiu said, which is also an old Jinan dish, but now few people make it and few people know it. Buy a hot grilled chicken that has just come out of the pot, remove the most tender breast meat, tear the fine chicken shreds, a live chicken, slaughter and wash, take the two most tender chicken teeth in the chicken tenderloin, cut into strips, marinate with egg white essence salt water starch, warm oil slippery, use a bowl of hanging clear soup, first braised chicken shreds, then slide the good chicken loin, pepper essence salt seasoning, a few drops of autumn oil dyeing, the soup is slightly to be boiled, hook thin mustard, drizzle chicken fat, it is good.
This dish tiger has only seen in the recipe, but has never eaten it, but it is beautiful to think about. Grilled chicken shredded mellow chicken tenderloin, soup and delicious, natural good. Otherwise, how could Mr. Liang Shiqiu never forget it?
Far from it. Or a plate of silk cakes. Some people say that pan silk cake originated from the noodles in Fushan, Yantai, and it is said that there is a detailed record in xue baozhan's "Vegetarian Sayings" written by Xue Baozhan at the end of the Qing Dynasty, but the tiger has consulted many times, and there is no record, but about ramen noodles, the "Vegetarian Sayings" says: "With water and noodles, into salt and clear oil, covered with a damp cloth, soft and soft, ripped open and boiled, called noodles." The practices are Taiyuan in Shanxi, Pingdingzhou, Shaanxi Chaoyi and Tongzhou. ”
Tiger suddenly understood, this is to explain the source of Yantai noodles with "Vegetarian Talk", but people are obviously talking about Shanxi and Shaanxi, gentlemen do not plunder the beauty of people, the origin of food should be mainly based on literature, far-fetched will only provoke ridicule, Jinan's oil spinning tiger has also been studied, saying that it is the Qing Kangxi Jiaxing Gu Zhong", "Raising a Small Record" has been recorded, the tiger consulted it is not so, this later said.
The story of the pan silk cake that the tiger heard was a "nother new restaurant" in the 30s of the world, at the intersection of Jinan's three latitudes and four roads, Master Ji Shanxiang and Wang Qingguo, the north plane point master, made the pan silk cake famous in Quancheng, and the Peking Opera artists Mei Lanfang, Shang Xiaoyun, Xi Xiaobo and other famous actors were full of praise after tasting. Known as "to the Beiyang Theater to listen to the play, taste a new plate of silk cake" said, and then the original Jinan old store Huiquan Hotel is also doing well, but after all kinds of historical changes, coupled with cumbersome production, less profits, the plate of silk cake is getting weaker, now willing to do will do not do more restaurants, and even if it can be done, it is rarely done well, tigers have eaten several times in the Spring City Hotel, I still vaguely feel that there is a taste recorded on the old recipe.
Not to mention, it's a pity.
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