Ye Guangling's novel "The Tale of Bean Juice" tells about the bean juice that the Beijing flag people love to drink.
Someone said, "Reading Ye Guangqian's novel is like watching a movie, and the picture is similar to the kind of old film perception of the last emperor of Zun Long." ”
This metaphor is very good, and this sense of picture has a lot to do with Ye Guangqian's own identity and experience.
Ye Guangqian, whose ancestral surname was Yehenara, grew up in the gate of the mansion. Reading Ye Guangqian is reading the big mansion door to eat and drink Lasa, read the Jingwei'er diet, read the name of the opera brand, and read the sorrow and joy of the fallen nobles of the Manchu Qing Dynasty.
"The Tale of Bean Juice" is a very classic of Ye Guangqian's many excellent novella works. The background of the story is from the end of the Qing Dynasty to the founding of New China to a special period. She observes and tells the story of an old lady who has worked in her home for 20 years from the perspective of the youngest person in her family.
The old lady of the flag called him Tara Mojiang, a yellow flag, a maid who was very good at cooking and was disfigured by her husband.
Old Beijing used to circulate a joke:
It is said that the flag people in the barracks outside Qihua Gate (Chaoyang Gate) are all gathered in the street to cry and weep bitterly, and when passers-by ask, the more painful the cryers are, saying, "The bean juice children's rooms are closed, don't you want your life?" Jokes are jokes, old Beijingers, especially flag people, especially like to drink bean juice, and even call it "life food" is a fact.
As the saying goes, Beijingers are "bean juice mouth", "old rice mouth", "brine shrimp mouth", that is, the so-called "Beijing three mouths".
It is said that the advent of bean juice was in the early Qing Dynasty, when a powder room made mung bean flour, it was in the hot summer, the semi-finished bean juice that was ground could not be used up on the same day, and the next day it was fermented, take a little taste, feel sweet and delicious, and then boiled, drink more delicious, so it was specially made to make bean juice to sell.
People buy bean juice, add purple old rice (warehouse rice) or leftover old rice, boil it into bean juice porridge, accompanied by different side dishes, and become a unique flavor snack of the Beijing Division.
Around the eighteenth year of the Qianlong Dynasty (1753 AD), it was introduced into the palace. Every year in the old calendar from September to 5 days after the following summer, the Qing Palace Imperial And Shou two dining rooms must make bean juice, and the emperor and the queen drink the bean juice to relieve the grease.
It is said that the Xianfeng Zi Palace (Lingzi) returned to Luang, and the two empresses of the East and West led the Tongzhi Emperor back to the palace, that is, asked the imperial dining room for bean juice to drink.
In the folk, the patrons of bean juice are even more noble and cheap, and those who wear decent clothes eat "enemas" or "sheep frost intestines" at temple fairs, and are often laughed at, but drinking bean juice is not shameful.
Folk selling cooked bean juice has two forms: one is to pick the bean juice in the streets and alleys, shouting "open the pot of bean juice porridge!" "Most buyers take pots and bowls home to drink; another form is to set up a bean juice stall at the temple fair, set up a long case, and set up a bench in front." Put 2-4 large glass covers on the case, and enlarge the fruit plate inside the large glass cover, holding sauce cucumbers, eight treasures, sauce radish, water lump silk and so on. In the spring, we have a mustard sauce and dried five-spiced radish.
Chili oil is served to customers who purchase fine pickles. He also sells food such as tahini baked cakes and fried charred rings. (Grandpa Belle's Blog)
Bean juice, charred rings, spicy pickles