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You hate me for being sour, and I said you haven't drunk enough—Wang Zengqi, the old Beijing bean juice, said in "Bean Juice."

author:Xi XiXi
You hate me for being sour, and I said you haven't drunk enough—Wang Zengqi, the old Beijing bean juice, said in "Bean Juice."

Bean juice is a unique traditional snack in old Beijing, with a history of 300 years according to written records. Soybean juice is produced by fermenting the remaining residue of mung bean as raw material, which is made of starch and other foods, and has the effect of nourishing the stomach, detoxifying and clearing the fire.

Bean juice has a long history, it is said that it has been popular in the Beijing area as early as the Liao and Song dynasties, and bean juice became a palace drink during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty. Bean juice is originally the favorite of ordinary people in Beijing. In the eighteenth year of Qianlong (1754), someone went to the temple to play the book and said: "Recently, the new bean juice has been sent to Yi Libu to check whether it is clean and drinkable, such as unclean things, and two or three bean juice smiths are collected with the cloth, and they are sent to the imperial dining room as errands." Therefore, the bean juice originating from the folk became the imperial meal of the court, and the Qianlong Emperor ordered people to introduce the bean juice into the palace, and summoned the group of ministers to taste this folk drink together, and the ministers cheered in unison after drinking. In this way, bean juice also became a palace drink.

You hate me for being sour, and I said you haven't drunk enough—Wang Zengqi, the old Beijing bean juice, said in "Bean Juice."

Bean juice has a long history, and it is said that it was a popular food as early as the Liao and Song dynasties.

You hate me for being sour, and I said you haven't drunk enough—Wang Zengqi, the old Beijing bean juice, said in "Bean Juice."

Some people say that bean juice is the food of Laoqi people, in fact, those who like to drink bean juice are not limited to ethnic groups, nor are they rich or poor. In the old days, there were dressed people who would be laughed at if they sat on the stall and ate enemas or sheep frost intestines, but it was not shameful to drink bean juice on the stall. As usual, the seller of bean juice is from the powder room to bring raw bean juice, pick it to the temple, and cook it on the spot. There is a long strip in front of it, with four large glass covers, one with spicy pickles; one with dried radish; one with tahini sauce baked cake, "horseshoe" (this is another form of baked cake, shaped like a horseshoe, hence the name. There are pretzel horseshoes, two skins of water horseshoes; a fried fruit with a "small scorch circle". The case was covered with a snow-white tablecloth and hung a blue cloth fence with a pattern cut from white cloth, marked with the words "× remember the bean juice". In the summer, cloth sheds are also set up to cover the hot sun. The operator is usually one or two people, constantly shouting to the tourists: "Please, you!" Hot pancakes, hot fruit, there's a seat in it! ”

When it comes to Beijing snacks, it is first of all reminiscent of bean juice. Beijingers love to drink bean juice and regard drinking bean juice as a kind of enjoyment. But the first time you drink bean juice, the swill-like smell makes it difficult to swallow, pinch your nose and drink it twice, the feeling is different. Some people can be addicted, looking for it everywhere, and they have to drink in line.

Famous traditional snacks in Beijing and the Chengde region. It has the characteristics of gray-green color, rich bean juice, sour taste and slightly sweet. Bean juice is a popular winter and spring snack with a unique flavor in Beijing. Old Beijingers, in particular, have a special preference for it. In the past, soybean juice was sold in two ways: raw and cooked. Most of the sellers use hand-pushed barrel carts to sell together with the mak tofu; the sellers mostly pick a bean juice pot on one end of the shoulder, and the other end is placed with scorched rings, twist flowers, and spicy pickles. In the "Yandu Small Food Miscellaneous", it is said: "The dregs can actually be used as porridge, and the flavor of the old pulp is thin and thick." Men and women sit together, one for each palatable. And said: "The taste is in addition to the sour and salty, and the eater knows itself, which can be described as exquisite." "Drinking bean juice must be accompanied by extremely finely cut pickles, generally in the summer with amaranth blue, pay attention to the use of old saltwater mustard cut into thin wires, mixed with chili oil, but also to eat fried brown crispy charred ring, the flavor is unique." Bean juice is a Beijing-style snack made from scraps made from mung bean starch or vermicelli. Raw bean juice is a water mung bean with water grinding, through the acid pulp to order the viscosity of the suspension liquid moderately increased, so that the granular fine starch floating in the upper layer, taken for starch separation (to facilitate the increase of starch out of the powder); the middle of the liquid is raw bean juice. Bean juice generally tastes sour, slightly bitter, and has a slight sour odor.

You hate me for being sour, and I said you haven't drunk enough—Wang Zengqi, the old Beijing bean juice, said in "Bean Juice."

1 kg of mung beans, water to taste. Bean juice is actually a scrap for making mung bean starch or vermicelli. It is soaked with mung beans until it can be twisted and peeled, fished out, added water to grind into a fine slurry, poured into a large vat for fermentation, sinking into the bottom of the tank for starch, the upper float is the bean juice. After fermentation, the bean juice must be boiled with water in a large casserole dish, mixed with the fermented bean juice and then boiled, and then kept warm with a low heat, and eaten as you eat.

1. Sift the mung bean impurities, rinse them clean, put them in a basin and soak them in cool water (warm water in winter, the amount of water is 2 times higher than that of mung beans) for more than ten hours. When the bean skin is twisted by hand, it is fished out, and add water to grind it into a thin paste (the finer the grinding, the better), and about 2.65 kg of thin paste per kilogram of mung beans. Then, add 1.5 kg of slurry water (that is, the water skimmed out when making soybean juice and starch in the previous time) and add no less than 12 kg of cold water to filter in the thin paste, which can filter out about 17 kg of slurry and 2 kg of okara.

2. Pour the powder into a large vat and settle overnight. The white starch precipitates to the bottom of the tank, on which is a layer of gray-brown black powder, and then a layer of green-green, thick texture of raw bean juice, and the top layer is foam and slurry. Skimming off the foam and syrup water, scooping out the raw bean juice (about 8 kg of raw bean juice can be obtained, and about 500 grams of starch and a small amount of black powder), it needs to be precipitated again before cooking, and the summer precipitation is six hours. Settle overnight in winter. After settling well, skim off the slurry on top.

3. Put a little cold water in the pot, boil it over high heat and pour in raw bean juice, when the bean juice is boiled and will overflow the outside of the pot, immediately switch to a low heat to keep warm (at this time, you can not use high heat, otherwise it will be boiled into ma tofu), eat with it, and eat with spicy pickles.

You hate me for being sour, and I said you haven't drunk enough—Wang Zengqi, the old Beijing bean juice, said in "Bean Juice."

<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="14" > Wang Zengqi said in "Bean Juice"</h1>

I have not drunk bean juice, not counting beijing.

When I was a child watching the Peking opera "Bean Juice Record" (that is, "Hong Luan Xi", also known as "Jin Yunu", a "Stick Beat Thin Lover"), I didn't know what "bean juice" was, and I thought it was tofu pulp.

Bean juice is the ingredient for making mung bean vermicelli. Very cheap. In the past, those who sold raw bean juice used a trolley to push a wooden barrel with a lid, stringing back streets and alleys. There is no need to "call the head" (a loudspeaker that attracts customers), nor does it bark. Because wherever you go every day, most of them are on time. When the time comes, there will be a woman who brings out a container to buy. With bean juice, you can eat wotou on this day without boiling porridge. This is the food of the poor. Jin Yunu's father, Jin Song, is "on the pole" (called Huatou), so there is leftover bean juice at home, and you can give Mo Ji a bowl.

Selling cooked bean juice, set up a stall on the street. A copper pot, a pot of bean juice in the pot, simmer over low heat. Boiling bean juice can only be used with a small fire, the fire is big, and the bean juice is big and bubbled, just fine. The bean juice stall is stocked with spicy pickle shreds – water gnocchi cut into thin shreds and poured with chili oil, burnt bread, and charred rings – similar to fritters, but made into circles and charred. Selling hard, go to the stall and sit down, ask for a few sets of burnt cake charred rings, come to two bowls of bean juice, just a little spicy pickles, is a meal.

You hate me for being sour, and I said you haven't drunk enough—Wang Zengqi, the old Beijing bean juice, said in "Bean Juice."

Pickles on bean juice stalls are not expensive. There are Baoding fellows who sit down, take out two steamed buns, ask "how much is a bowl of bean juice", and the bean juice seller told him, "What about pickles?" "Pickles don't cost money." "Then bring me a plate of pickles." ”

Around the eighteenth year of the Qianlong Dynasty (1753 AD), it was introduced into the palace. Every year from September to 5 days after the summer of the following year, the Qing Palace Imperial And Shou two dining rooms must make bean juice, and the emperor and the emperor and the queen drink the bean juice to relieve the grease.

It is said that the Xianfeng Zi Palace (Lingzi) returned to Luang, and the two empresses of the East and West led the Tongzhi Emperor back to the palace, that is, asked the imperial dining room for bean juice to drink.

In the folk, the patrons of bean juice are even more noble and cheap, and those who wear decent clothes eat "enemas" or "sheep frost intestines" at temple fairs, and are often laughed at, but drinking bean juice is not shameful.

Don't look at its appearance, but it has always been loved by Beijingers, because it is extremely rich in protein, vitamin C, crude fiber and sugar, and has the effect of dispelling heat, clearing heat, warming the sun, strengthening the spleen, appetizing, detoxifying, drying and so on.

You hate me for being sour, and I said you haven't drunk enough—Wang Zengqi, the old Beijing bean juice, said in "Bean Juice."

Bean juice is made of mung beans as raw materials, after blanching beans, grinding beans, starch separation, fermentation and a series of processes, and finally get starch. Soy juice and pulp. Starch is used for it, pulp is used to recycle the fermentation raw materials for production, bean juice is used for drinking and reproduction of ma tofu, ma tofu is used to boil the bean juice in a large pot, and then drained by the water, fried with mutton oil! [1]

The average person drinks bean juice, whether it is hot or cold, naturally can not drink so naturally, and now some shops that sell bean juice boil the bean juice and put it there, and then heat it up when it is cold, and some simply do not care, how can this drink authentic bean juice? If you drink it cold, you will have a swill taste in your mouth; if you drink it hot, the taste is different, sweet with sour, sour and astringent, and the taste is unique; and then it is more flavorful with pickle shreds, scorched rings, burnt cakes and the like.

Old Beijingers love to drink bean juice, or directly buy raw bean juice to go home and boil it themselves, generally drinking it in winter; or going to temple fairs and street bean juice stalls to drink, generally in summer. Nowadays, the bean juice vendors walking the streets and alleys are gone, and they are still occasionally seen at temple fairs. Bean juice is difficult to find, and authentic bean juice is even more difficult to find. This is bitter for those Beijingers who love to drink bean juice, and they can only go to a limited number of snack bars to satisfy this bite.

Folk selling cooked bean juice has two forms: one is to pick the bean juice in the streets and alleys, shouting "open the pot of bean juice porridge!" "Most buyers take pots and bowls home to drink; another form is to set up a bean juice stall at the temple fair, set up a long case, and set up a bench in front." Put 2-4 large glass covers on the case, and enlarge the fruit plate inside the large glass cover, holding sauce cucumbers, eight treasures, sauce radish, water lump silk and so on. In the spring, we have a mustard sauce and dried five-spiced radish. Chili oil is served to customers who purchase fine pickles. He also sells food such as tahini baked cakes and fried charred rings.

You hate me for being sour, and I said you haven't drunk enough—Wang Zengqi, the old Beijing bean juice, said in "Bean Juice."

The Gokokuji Snack Bar is based on halal Beijing-style snacks and classic varieties of temple fairs. Varieties have also changed over the years. There are various varieties of daily operations. There are all kinds of fine stuffing Lantern, halal tangyuan, Aiwowo, bean noodle cake, sesame rice cake, fruit rice cake, pea yellow, etc., fried goods have honey twist flowers, open mouth laughter, thin crisp, scorched circle, liquid food with bean juice, noodle tea, small bean porridge, chopped soup, fresh soy milk, almond tofu, lotus porridge and so on. The shop produces nearly 100 varieties of pea yellow, Ai wo wo, bean noodle cake, fruit cake, honey twist flower, honey three knives, scorched circle, sugar fire, bean paste baked cake, sugar oil crisp, salty sesame sauce baked cake, etc., dry and thin, sweet and salty, steamed fried and boiled dumplings.

Noodle tea is one of the characteristic varieties of Gokokuji Halal snacks. In the past, it was usually sold in the afternoon. A poem said: "When you wake up hot noodle tea at the beginning of your afternoon dream, you must always add dried ginger and sesame sauce." "Drinking noodle tea is very particular about eating methods, do not use chopsticks, spoons and other tableware when eating, but one hand bowl along the side of the bowl to drink in a circle, non-old Beijingers may not have this way to eat." Why use this way of eating? This is related to the flavor of tasting noodle tea.

The drinking of bean juice by Beijingers began around the eighteenth year of the Qianlong Dynasty (1753 AD). There is a saying that "Beijing bean juice, the lifeblood of the flag people" is not unreasonable. Bean juice was originally a drink for the Imperial Diet of the Qing Dynasty. Although the "taste" is individual, it has a health effect. Summer can quench thirst and quench heat, winter can clear the heat and warm sun, drink it in all seasons, beneficial to appetizers, spleen, detoxification and dryness. Drinking bean juice is exquisite, and it must be accompanied by scorched rings and pickle shreds. People say that bean juice is a special snack that "tastes outside the food". In order to maintain its characteristics, the Gokokuji Snack Bar has been operating continuously since the 1950s. Some foreign overseas Chinese, Hong Kong and Macao compatriots came to the Snack Bar of Huguosi Temple to taste the rich local customs of Beijing. In August 1997, the first "Chinese Famous Snacks" identification activity organized by the former Ministry of Domestic Trade and the China Cuisine Association was recognized as "Chinese Famous Snacks" by the bean juice of the Huguosi Snacks.

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