The Spring Festival Gala "Only This Green" and "Remembrance of Jiangnan" "Dance Painting" out of the circle, once again show that traditional culture and the poetic and picturesque beauty contained in it have artistic vitality, and can bring beauty enjoyment through time and space. Poetry, calligraphy, painting and their costumes, as well as the scenery of Jiangnan, are so beautiful and infectious. The costumes of "Only This Green" are very beautiful, and the character shape of "Memories of Jiangnan" is also very personal, which shows that the choreographer has worked hard. According to the choreographer of "Only This Green", when choreographing the dance, according to the data, repeated deliberations were made to determine the costumes, hairstyles and other styles.
Huang Qiang, director of the Jiangsu Literary and Art Critics Association and visiting professor of the School of Humanities of Jiangsu University of Technology, affirmed the innovation and exquisiteness of the two "dance paintings", but he also pointed out that there are still some flaws in the hairstyles and costumes that reflect the characteristics of the times. He was interviewed by the Yangtze Evening News/Purple Cow News reporter, introducing the tang dynasty, the Tang, Song and Yuan costumes, and the characteristics of Jiangnan costumes.
The dancers of "Only This Green" have a bun
What kind of bun is "Only This Green" combing?
After the Spring Festival Gala, the topic of traditional culture fermented. "Only This Green" is based on the Song Dynasty Wang Ximeng's green landscape painting "A Thousand Miles of Rivers and Mountains" as a facsimile, dancing poetically, as if a green landscape painting, beautiful elegant, beautiful and comfortable. Huang Qiang said that everyone found that no, the dancer's hairstyle is actually not the hairstyle of the Song Dynasty, but the hairstyle of the Tang Dynasty.
In the Tang Dynasty, the bun was thrown and the bun was thrown into the sky
During the Tang and Song dynasties, women were popular in high buns and rich hairstyles, but there was a big difference in style. In the Tang Dynasty, the hair buns included black buns, concentric buns, half-flipped buns, anti-bun buns, anti-bun buns, pull buns, double ring buns, throwing buns, double screw buns, Uighur buns and so on. In the Song Dynasty, women's hair buns included Chaotian bun, plantain bun, dragon heart bun, tassel bun, noisy bun, bun bun, cloud bun, bao bun and so on. In terms of styling, the Tang Dynasty hairstyle is taller and larger, the shape is more chic, and the Song Dynasty hair bun is popular to wear crown ornaments.
Tang Dynasty half-turned bun
Huang Qiang believes that "the choreographer said that the dancer's hairstyle in "Only This Green" is a mountain peak bun, but from the shape similar to the mountain peak, in fact, the Song Dynasty did not have the name of "mountain peak bun", but it was closer to the Tang Dynasty's half-turned bun, throwing family bun, and the choreographer found creative inspiration from the Tang Dynasty bun. ”
The tomb of Princess Tang Yongtai is frescoed with a court maid wearing a skirt and half arm and combing a high bun
The murals of the tomb of Li Xianhui, the Yongtai Princess of the Tang Dynasty in Qianxian County, Shaanxi Province, have hair buns similar to those of dancers in "Only This Green". The murals on the east wall of the front room depict nine female figures from the Tang Dynasty, who are relatives of the deceased or female officials specially dispatched by the court to make sacrifices. The women in the picture all wear long skirts, covered with half-arms or half-sleeved tops, draped in knotted silk, and wearing heavy shoes on their feet. The nine women all comb high buns, but the hair buns are different, including half buns, throwing buns, cross-heart buns, e buns, etc. The woman in the middle of the mural of princess Yongtai's tomb combed the bun, and the bun was towering like a mountain peak. The murals of the Tomb of Wei Wei in the Tang Dynasty in Chang'an County, Shaanxi Province, also have images of throwing buns. The bun of the dancers of "Only This Green" is similar to the bun of the thrower, and the elements of the half-turned bun are combined.
According to the "New Book of Tang and the Five Elements", "At the end of the Tang Dynasty, a Woman in Kyoto combed her hair and hugged her face with two sideburns, shaped like a bun, which was sometimes called throwing a bun. Half-turned buns were popular in the early Tang Dynasty, and the Tang Dynasty Yuwen Clan's "Makeup Table Record" said: "In Tang Wude, the palace combs half a bun." "The half-bun evolved from the bun, and the shape is like a rolled lotus leaf, especially when viewed from the side. Brush your hair from the bottom up, skimming to the top of your head, and then flipping to one side, its bun towering and tilting to one side at the top. The shape of the half-turned bun in the early Tang Dynasty and the Sheng Tang Dynasty was different.
Song Dynasty women comb high buns
The Song Dynasty Jinci Temple is facing the heavens
Huang Qiang said that from the style of clothing, makeup, hairstyles and other styles, the Tang and Song dynasties culture is different, the Tang Dynasty atmosphere is open, the costumes are colorful, and the exotic style is strong; the Song Dynasty atmosphere is convergent, the costumes are light and elegant, the style is decent, "Only this green" echoes the green landscape with a green long skirt, and the mountain bun (the choreographer calls it the mountain peak hair bun) to correspond to the mountain peak towering, but the mountain hair bun used by the choreographer is actually the Tang Dynasty's throwing family hair bun, semi-turned bun, "using the Tang Dynasty hair bun to express the style and aesthetics of the Song Dynasty's "Thousand Miles of Rivers and Mountains", Times are a bit beyond. Before the Song Dynasty, just as Qin Qiong of the Tang Dynasty could not cross to the Song Dynasty to fight with Yue Fei side by side against gold, the choreographer of "Only This Green" can find representative hair buns from the Song Dynasty makeup to interpret 'dance painting'. ”
Part of Wang Ximeng's "Map of a Thousand Miles of Rivers and Mountains"
"Only This Green" hair bun
"Memories of Jiangnan" a leaf boat light reader
"Memories of Jiangnan" wears more than just Song Dynasty costumes
Another cultural blockbuster of the CCTV Spring Festival Gala, "Remembrance of Jiangnan", uses the poems of five poets of the Tang, Song and Yuan dynasties to show the masterpiece "Fuchun River Long Scroll" handed down by Huang Gongwang in the Yuan Dynasty, shaping the image of walkers, woodcutters, fishermen and readers, reflecting the style of the Song Dynasty.
In the program, Wu Rong of the Tang Dynasty "Fuchun", Tang Dynasty Cui Tu "The Woodcutter", Southern Song Dynasty Luyou "Queqiao Immortal", Northern Song Dynasty Su Shi "Xingxiangzi • Crossing Qilise", Yuan Dynasty Zhou Xun "Fishing Platform". Huang Qiang said, "The costumes worn by the three dynasties are different, but the characters of the three dynasties in "Remembering Jiangnan" are mainly Song Dynasty costumes. ”
Huang Qiang explained that the costumes of the characters involved in "Remembrance of Jiangnan" are civilian costumes and scholar costumes, and the readers take into account the identity of civilians and scholars, and in the Tang Dynasty, there was a saying of "white-clothed public secretaries", before the imperial examination was a citizen, after the high school of the imperial examination was an official, the identity changed, and the costume also changed.
In terms of clothing, the rulers of the Song Dynasty advocated the concise view of "being simple" and "not extravagant". "Women learn to be respectful and thrifty for thousands of years, and the weathered palace is only light makeup" ("Palace Words"), social morality and values have changed, and aesthetic tendencies have also changed, so the luxurious, complex, gorgeous, and open clothing style of the Tang Dynasty has gradually been replaced by the simple, simple and elegant style of the Song Dynasty.
In the Song Dynasty, the people had shirts, straight shirts and other soldiers' uniforms, and people of all walks of life and all walks of life followed the clothing system and wore costumes that matched their identity. Retired officials, hermits, free literati, and the people of the city were fond of straight and wide robes, which were called straight clothes in the Song Dynasty, that is, long clothes, with sewn middle seams on the back, all the way down to the bottom. Therefore, it is called straight, also known as straight, and there are also said that the long clothes are called straight. In the Song Dynasty, there were also straight-thrown garments made of plain cloth, shaped like plackets with large sleeves and inlaid with black edges.
Song Dynasty soldiers costumes to shirt-based, in the hem of the shirt to be crossed, in the past there was "pinguan green robe, lift the son of the white socks" saying, that is, before the soldiers came out, or flat-headed people, can only wear white clothing, after becoming an official can wear red and green, so white and black are the main clothing colors of the ancient low-level officials and people's clothing.
The literati of the Song Dynasty also liked to wear cranes. However, the Song Dynasty's crane is not a fur costume, the fabric is cloth, linen and other common materials, the reason why they call the wide costume crane, take the crane's high purity, the meaning of the fairy road to the wind. Song Dynasty women's clothing is relatively diverse, Song Dynasty men's clothing is relatively simple, "civilian men dress short, scarf wrapping has no certain style, and is not suspected of lumbar buns." ”
Su Dongpo wears a straight frame
Huang Qiang said that there is an image of Su Dongpo in "Remembering Jiangnan", wearing a straight jacket and wearing a Dongpo scarf. There is no problem in representing the Song Dynasty, but if the poem involves the Tang Dynasty and the Yuan Dynasty, the costume should be changed.
The daily clothing of the Tang Dynasty scholars is a shirt, which is slightly different from the Song Dynasty soldier shirt, the shirt is not a short shirt, but a longer shirt, with a horizontal shirt in the middle, similar to the robe and not a robe. Two long bands tied at the horizontal fold are called Feng wing clothes. Hermits in the Tang Dynasty wore short-sleeved and wide-sleeved garments made of silk cloth, called hermit shirts. Hermits also have brown, a kind of coarse clothing woven with hemp and wool, some long and short, mostly short clothes, called short brown, Du Fu has "Winter has a li bai" poem cloud "short brown wind frost, but also Dan sun and moon late." "In the Tang Dynasty, who once lived at the height of the temple, he retired to live in the mountains and forests and created a kind of turban, which was called Huayang Mountain Man, and the towel was named Huayang Towel.
The costumes of the Song Dynasty followed the Tang Dynasty, the official uniforms changed greatly, and the changes in civilian costumes were still small, but the Yuan Dynasty was a dynasty ruled by the Mongols, and the people were divided into four classes, Mongols, Semu people, Han people, and Southern people. The Han refers to the Northern Han and Khitan and Jurchen, Jurchen and other ethnic groups, and the Southern Guide Fang Han and ethnic minorities. In other words, the Han people in the south have the lowest status. Although the official uniforms of the Yuan Dynasty were also influenced by the Uniform System of the Central Plains, they had the inherent characteristics of the Mongolian And Yuan people, such as quality Sun clothes, braided robes, big hats, and Po Jiaotou, which were very different from the Central Plains costumes. The general costume of the Yuan Dynasty Shishu was for men to wear bucket hats, cross-collared small-sleeved robes, and belts around the waist.
The jacket worn by the Yuan people is the common costume of the people of all ethnic groups in Mongolia and Han, which is called Answer ku in Mongolian, and is also written as a protective, also known as a pleat. A sleeveless vest with a crossed collar, i.e. a top without sleeves. There are also long sleeves, usually large plackets, plackets, and narrow upper and lower widths.
Huang Qiang concluded that the fly in the ointment is that the costumes of the Tang and Song Dynasties are different, and "Remembering Jiangnan" is not rigorous enough to express the Costumes of the Song Dynasty. The Song people sang the poems of the former dynasty, and there was nothing wrong with the Song people's clothes; but the Song people sang the poems of the Yuan people with a little regret. When considered, it is perfect for clothing to change according to dynastic changes. Readers, walkers, and hermits can wear wide-sleeved shirts and straight-sleeved shirts, but woodcutters and fishermen all live by exchanging labor for money, which must be dressed up in short clothes, in fact, the noble people who are hidden in the world are simple in clothing and food, and even simple performances, such as Tao Yuanming's use of turbans to filter the impurities of wine. A few minutes of "dance painting" condenses three dynasties, which can be more perfect in the details of clothing.
"Remembering Jiangnan" sells fish afraid of fishing fathers near the city gate
Spring Festival Gala brings fire Jiangnan costume culture
The "Remembrance of Jiangnan" dance and the "Fuchun River Picture Scroll" refer to jiangnan scenery, Jiangnan affairs, and the character costumes and makeup involved are naturally Jiangnan costumes. So what are the characteristics of Jiangnan clothing?
Huang Qiang said that Jiangnan is a geographical region, and in different fields such as culture, geography and climate, the scope, concept and definition of Jiangnan are different. In a broad sense, Jiangnan refers to the south of the Yangtze River, and generally refers to the area of the south bank of the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River. Jiangnan is a place where people are brilliant and beautiful, and "Jiangnan" has always been a changing and flexible regional concept from ancient times to the present, but it has always represented a beautiful and rich water town scene.
In different historical periods, the literary imagery of Jiangnan is not the same. During the Tang Dynasty, a relatively clear concept of Jiangnan appeared. Jiangnan costumes include dynasty costumes and regional costumes, Six Dynasties costumes, Southern Tang costumes, Ming Dynasty costumes, and Republic of China costumes belong to dynastic costumes, and Eastern Wu costumes, Nanjing costumes, South Vietnamese costumes, Changzhou costumes, and water village costumes belong to regional costumes.
The full concept of clothing, including official clothing, casual wear, women's clothing, crown hats, shoes, makeup, braids, as well as silk planting, production, trade, related supporting industries. During the Six Dynasties, there was already a brocade, and this brocade was the Yunjin related to Nanjing. Yunjin is named because it is as brilliant as the clouds in the sky, and because it is time-consuming and laborious to manufacture, it is said that there are inches of gold and gold, which shows the preciousness of Yunjin. Yunjin has always been the imperial supplies of the imperial palace, dedicated to the emperor, or members of the royal family, and can be used by non-ordinary officials and eunuchs.
"Nanjing during the Six Dynasties period produced black silk, which was of high quality and very famous. Black silk is mainly the result of printing and dyeing technology, at that time black silk was mostly used by the nobility, and the people could not afford to use it. Huang Qiang said that the place name of "Wuyi Lane" is still preserved in the Confucius Temple in Nanjing, and it is also the Wuyi Lane sung by Liu Yuxi's "Wuyi Lane Mouth Sunset Slope". The black-clad, black silk. Nanjing produced black silk until the Republic of China period, and was well-known at home and abroad.
The Six Dynasties Dress Belt leads the fashion trend and shows the demeanor of Jiangnan scholars; "Standing on the Qingyun Ladder with Xie Gong's shoes" (Li Bai's "Sleepwalking in Heaven and Leaving Farewell") is the creative shoes of Jiangnan Talents, the originator of hiking shoes; The "Han Jun Light Grid" of The Southern Tang Dynasty Han Xizai is the creative light gauze hat of Jiangnan; "Untie my purple qi qiu and change for Jinling wine." The wine comes and goes, and there are many happy things. (Li Bai, "The Hermit of Pengchi on the Jinling River") "Bamboo sticks and shoes are lighter than horses, who is afraid?" A plume of smoke and rain for a peaceful life" (Su Shi's "Dingfeng Wave") The two great poets of the Tang and Song Dynasties show the pride of Jiangnan talents who are lightly dressed and heavy friendship, and let the wind and rain go freely.
Huang Qiang also said that the dance painting "Remembering Jiangnan" shows the scenery of Jiangnan, the customs and customs of the land, and the five poems cited are wonderful, "There are water and mountains under the heavens, and the landscape of Fuchun is not human." The Changchuan River is not spring and green, and the reflection of a thousand peaks falls in between. "A leaf boat is light, and the double oars are terrified. Water sky clear, shadow Cham Wave Flat. But it does not include the Tang Dynasty poet Bai Juyi's "Remembering Jiangnan": "Jiangnan is good, and the scenery was once familiar." The sunrise river flowers are red and the fire is better, and the spring river is as green as blue. Can you not remember Gangnam? "Maybe it's not the theme, but it's a little bit of a pity.
Yangtze Evening News/Purple Cow News reporter Zhang Nan