Confucius loved to eat jerky, what would happen if he gave him yellow fish carp from Zhejiang

The delicious fish is the carp. In the list of new year goods of most Zhejiang people, various kinds of fish are indispensable.

In the process of turning aquatic products into dry goods, there are usually different routines such as drying, drying, wind, and baking: exposure to the sun, hanging on a rope to dry, blowing in the sea breeze, and roasting on a fire. In my hometown, in addition to crabs, almost all seafood can be made into various dry goods in these ways.

Fish, salmon, dried, are the finished products of seafood, the size of the mackerel is the largest, there are yellow fish mackerel, eel fish, eel fish, dry fish, wind, there are wind eel, salmon, white-banded salmon, yellow carp, miscellaneous fish.

The name of the fish in taizhou is very loud. Ming Jiajing's "Taiping County Chronicle" said: "During the Yongle years, the Songmen fishing industry flourished, and fishing boats and merchants from the north and south gathered to trade. In particular, the yellow croaker, squid, dried shrimp, jellyfish, pickled mud snails, silver fish and other high-quality products are referred to as court tributes. The yellow fish fish produced in Wenling Songmen, the Qing Dynasty gourmet Yuan Ming praised it as "soft and fresh and fat", and the late Ming dynasty literary scholar Zhang Dai had "Songmen White Fish": "The stone head is passed down to the world, and Songmen is unique." It is flavored with crispness and flavored. The skin can be broken, and the scales are not stiff. If there is an oath, the monks will also teach them to taste. "Stone head is another name for yellow fish. Zhang Dai is a son of the family, a lifetime of pursuit of high-quality life, eating, furniture is the top thing, Songmen white carp can get his favor, it can be seen that it is indeed good.

The sea area of the hometown is rich in yellow fish, Dachen Island and Songmen yellow fish are very famous, during the flood season, "yellow fish laughing, the boss is called", "spring snow is full of mountains, yellow fish are full of beaches", there are also sayings in the hometown, "alone, after dinner yellow fish" "pulling the huqin and blowing the flute, eating the yellow fish grunting cake", it is about the fishermen returning from fishing, pulling the erhu, blowing the pipe, and eating the yellow fish roast rice cake beautifully. Due to the indiscriminate fishing, the yellow croaker was once scarce, and recently, the news of the harvest of the yellow croaker has come from the coast of Zhejiang.

In the past, when the yellow croaker harvest was harvested, it was impossible to eat at all, so the fresh yellow croaker was cut open, the fish gelatin was removed, the internal organs were washed with water, and then salted. There is a sentence in eastern Zhejiang that "the yellow fish is looking for bitter bile in the yellow fish - it is difficult to find", before drying the yellow fish, all the internal organs of the yellow fish are completely removed, and where can you still find the bitter bile in the sun-dried fish, referring to the futile thing. After two or three days of pickling, take out the dried yellow fish on the bamboo mat or bamboo rack, and bask it like a tobacco leaf in the sun, and the golden can be dazzling in the sun. People by the sea, as soon as the harvest season comes, they are busy drying fish, and our people there call people who lie on their backs or are exposed to the sun "sunbathing", or "tanning their heads". In the hometown, another layer of "sunbathing" means that women reveal privacy to each other.

The yellow fish carp in Songmen is of good quality, and after drying, it is gray and white with light yellow and light blue, and there are more gray and white, so it is called white carp. The outer layer of the sun-dried white carp is made of bamboo grate, sealed with clean straw, hidden in a barn or wheat cabinet, which is not bad, longer than the preservation time of ham, and the flesh is tight and tough, accompanied by a fresh fragrance. The fish glue in the belly of the yellow fish, processing long glue and flake glue, is even more valuable. Aged yellow fish fish has the effect of clearing the heart and defeating the fire, people on the seashore, on the fire toothache, red and swollen eyes, eat aged old carp or drink fish soup to the fire.

Yellow croaker can be eaten raw and chewy, which is far better than ham. Its best thing is to "kill rice", the summer is hot, eat nothing appetite, roast bowl yellow fish shark winter melon, pickle yellow fish fish, yellow fish tofu, a bowl of rice immediately belly; ordinary green vegetable tofu, add a few pieces of yellow fish fish, mellow nose, the entrance is crisp. The roast meat must be made with old carp, so that it is fragrant. In the past, at home, in the winter, my father often made fish jelly, and in the morning we ate it with white carp frozen rice, which was really delicious.

Waiters are drying the cut yellow croaker and making the yellow croaker. Xinhua News Agency

In different seasons, there are different fish floods. When cuttlefish are harvested, you can dry cuttlefish. The cuttlefish is cut open with a knife, the ink is released, the internal organs are taken out and marinated, and some are cut open, and the internal organs are not taken out, but are marinated together with the cuttlefish eggs and cuttlefish sacs. Sun-dried cuttlefish have a white layer of frost on their backs, such as frost cold for a long day, such as frost falling grass and trees. People who are not by the sea, think it is moldy. Once I invited a friend from out of town to dinner, she ate the cuttlefish grilled pork belly, greatly applauded, cuttlefish fresh and tough, meat fragrant and crisp, she said that she has never eaten such a delicious cuttlefish. When I got back, I sent her a few cuttlefish fish, and she opened it to see it, and mistakenly thought that the cuttlefish was moldy, which was really disappointing.

There is also a species of mullet in my hometown, which is made from the old poisonous puffer fish. During the Qingming Dynasty, the puffer fish is in full swing, the puffer fish is cut open, all poisonous things are removed, and after repeated cleaning, sprinkle with sea salt and dry in the sun. Dried puffer fish, shaped like bark, is used to braise red with dried meat or bamboo shoots, and the aroma is incomparable.

The eels in Yuhuan Kanmen are very famous. In the hometown, eel production is second only to striped fish, pomfret and blue chamois, ranking fourth. Place the eel flat on a wooden board, use an ear knife to cut from the head to the tail, clean it up, and open it with a bamboo skewer in the middle to avoid sticking, and when it is dried to six or seven minutes, it can be eaten. At this time, the eel meat, snow white and tender, steamed in the pot, sprayed incense. When it is completely dry, the eels are old, but there are old wonders, the meat is firm, and it is very delicious to use with pork. The eels used to roast meat must be air-dried until they have completely lost their moisture.

The best of the fish is exactly dried. Fishermen will cut the fish directly at sea and wash it with seawater. The saltiness of the fish washed by the sea is just right, hanging on the boat, the wind blows from all directions, whirring, so that the moisture in the fish quickly dries up, the sea breeze brings a salty and wet smell, blowing the fish. Before the fishing boats could return to port, the fish dried. Fresh-style eels and fresh-air fish are all sharp goods, and this delicacy can be enjoyed by ordinary people. There are also air-dried fish and fish on the market, most of which are blown out with electric fans, several large fans start at the same time, although it is also dried, but this wind cannot be compared with the wind at sea, and the taste is not on the same grade.

Fish are usually large dried seafood, and dried and salmon are mostly small seafood.

Among the dried seafood in my hometown, there are dried loach, dried mud, dried clams, dried clams, etc., the most famous are dried shrimp and dried mud, and Nie Huang's "Sea Mistake Map" in the Qing Dynasty praised Taizhou's dried mud and delicious. Mudray head big eyes small, lively nature, like jumping foraging, also known as jumping fish, large amount of activity, so the meat is very delicate, Sanmen County mudflats on the mud is very famous. The local fishermen use a long bamboo pole and throw it far enough to catch a mudrap, which is simply a stunt. Dried is neither sun-dried nor dried, but with bamboo skewers, reeds or wires, the mudcoat is like a skewer of lamb, worn into a string, grilled on the fire, grilled until seven or eight mature, the fish body shrinks, and then placed on the plate, with a kitchen knife to flatten it, so that the sides of the crack, and then set on the fire, slightly grilled, or directly into the sun to dry. When cooking soup and noodles, put a few sticks of elastic and dried seasoning, which is extremely fresh.

When the shrimp harvest is abundant, the shrimp in the vegetable farm are many and cheap, and the housewives will buy fresh shrimp back, put it in the sun to dry the shrimp, if the sun is strong, it will be dried in one day, or directly put in the oven to dry. Roast bean noodles, roast rice noodles or put soup, throw a few shrimp dry, fresh, if it is soft shell shrimp, even the shell can be eaten, and nutritious and calcium supplement.

There are also dried squid. A snack that I used to eat when I was a child was called squid shreds, and I brought a bag with me during my spring swim, and I chewed it all the way, and it was not boring even if I went farther away. Shredded squid is made by roasting dried squid in a charcoal fire and beating it repeatedly with a small wooden stick.

Dried pomfret also tastes good. The small dried pomfret is like a small leaf, and the People of Zhoushan compare it to a maple leaf, which is a solid image. Zhoushan people also use the metaphor of "maple leaves falling and afraid of knocking their heads open": small pomfret dried because it is too light, the wind is slightly stronger, and the dried small pomfret dried leaves in the sun are blown away like leaves, if someone just passes by, it may fall on the head, scary.

Among the catfish, there are plum catfish, white-banded catfish, yellow crucian salmon, miscellaneous fish catfish, and dragon head salmon. Dragon head salmon is the most common, there are two kinds of salty and lightly dried, salty is salted, placed on a bamboo mat or bamboo plaque, dried in the sun, this dragon head can be used as a "pressed rice hammer". Another is light sunning, where the large mouths of fresh dragon head fish are strung up with rope and hung in a ventilated place to dry.

People who are accustomed to eating fish and fish will miss it very much if they can't eat this taste for a while. Some people in our hometown who have heavy tastes do not like to eat fresh fish and shrimp, but only love to eat this kind of thing that our hometown dialect calls "dry goods". As the saying goes in my hometown, there are fish and fish to eat. In fact, it is not necessarily true that salty fish fish sometimes taste far better than live fish. But only good fish can produce good fish. As the old saying goes in my hometown, "It is difficult to cover the sun by breaking the net, and it is difficult to dry the fish with stinky fish", compared with fresh aquatic products, dried seafood has a unique flavor, no less than the seafood that has just come out of the water, but more timeless salty aroma. Under the action of sunlight, sea breeze and time, the fish and fish have completed their transformation, and various proteins have been decomposed into wonderful tastes.

Especially in the new year, they are the main force on the table of the seaside people, whether it is dry stir-fry, braised, and soup, they are indispensable to the shadow of fish and fish. "Over the wine cuttlefish, under the rice dragon head catfish" has become a daily routine, more advanced is "over the wine eel eel, under the rice yellow fish". At that time, Old Master Kong said that the jerky was really delicious, and if someone took the initiative to send him ten pieces of jerky, then he would definitely take him in as a student. If Old Master Kong had eaten my hometown's Songmen white carp, jade ring wind eel, and dried sand and dried sand, I think he would have accepted him as a closed disciple.

Column Editor-in-Chief: Kong Lingjun Text Editor: Chen Shuyi Title Image Source: Xinhua News Agency

Source: Author: Wang Han