With the popularity of the Tang Dynasty background legend drama "Wind Rises Luoyang", the delicacies and delicacies that appear in the play attract the audience as much as the suspenseful plot: the puff cheese that contains the cultural exchanges between the north and the south, the fish that gradually declines in the historical wave, and of course, the creative Luoyang water mat, which is jokingly called "the Tang Dynasty Royal Special Rotary Self-service Water Seat" by netizens.
"The curved water is easy to see, and the water's edge is restored to the imperial kitchen treasure." This poem is from the Southern Song Dynasty poet Han Yuanji's "Ciyun Chen Zi Xiang Xie Xinhuo Poem", expressing that the flow of Qu Shui and the imperial kitchen delicacies have become Chen Traces. What Won Won Ji did not expect was that hundreds of years after his poetry, the creative Chinese combined Qu Shui Liu Qian with the imperial kitchen delicacies to create a new form of Qu Shui Liu Shui Xi in the film and television drama: people can sing poetry and wine at the water's edge to do elegant things, and they can also enjoy the beauty of taste.
A scene of Luoyang South City in the promotional map of "The Wind Rises in Luoyang"
A veritable "water mat"
"Qin and Huan, Fang Zhuo is sloppy." Soldier and woman, Fang Bingxi. ...... Qin and Liu, Liu Qiqing. Soldiers and women, Yin Qiying. This is the scene recorded in the Book of Poetry, Zheng Feng, Qin Huan, of the March When The Men and Women of the State of Zheng were lined with water (fú) (xì). After the Han Dynasty and the Wei and Jin Dynasties, this ritual of washing the body with water and removing disasters slowly evolved into the custom of feasting on the water and walking in the countryside for spring, and evolved into the habit of floating eggs on the water and floating dates on the water. The traditional Shangwei Festival custom has gradually become a well-known game "Flowing QuShui": everyone sits on both sides of the canal, the water cup goes down the river, and stops in front of whom, whoever takes the cup to drink.
Historically, the Famous Scholars of the Eastern Jin Dynasty, Such as Wang Xizhi and Xie An, "repaired the Zen Affair" in Huiji Lanting, ququ the flow of water, drank and wrote poems, Wang Xizhi wrote the famous "Orchid Pavilion Collection Sequence", this Lanting Anecdote was also sung by posterity as a model of Wei Jin's wind bones, and Wang Xizhi's miracle work "Lanting Collection Sequence" won the reputation of "the first line of books in the world". Since then, the curved water flow has been sought after by the literati and scholars, and has lasted for thousands of years.
Wen Zhengming Lanting XiuYu Tu Collection of the Palace Museum in Beijing
During the Tang Dynasty, the Shangwei Festival was a very important festival, and Chongyang and Zhonghe were called the "Three Orders Festival", and the emperor also wanted to do the meeting of qushui flow. This is especially true of the folk Moke rioters, who sit on both sides of the flowing water on March 3, one chant after another, expressing the taste of flowing water. It can be said that the flow of qushui was very popular in the Tang Dynasty. The Tang Dynasty poet Chen Ziang wrote "Late Spring Jiayue, Shangwei Fangchen" on the shore of Luoshui. QunGong Yu Drink, Yu Luo Zhi Bin" verse. It has been endowed with elegant cultural symbols, and even entered Japan and Korea, and spread to foreign countries.
Painting of the Curved Water Stream in the Imperial Palace of Kyoto, Japan
When it comes to Luoyang water mats, many people familiar with Yu cuisine know that its meat and vegetarian combination, sweet and salty, and widely loved. It actually originated from the Northern Wei Dynasty to the Sui and Tang Dynasties when Buddhism flourished. Due to the large number of Buddhist believers in the upper class of Luoyang at that time, the local monks and nuns would carefully concoct the iftar meal for the eunuchs of the high-ranking officials and eunuchs with their own ingredients. In ancient times, Luoyang was dry and cold, so the folk mostly ate soup soup to keep cold, and the monks also followed the folk habit of eating soup soup and made dishes with soup with water, which was the earliest Luoyang water mat. Since then, the local dignitaries have added Luoyang's abundant mountain skin water (delicious food produced in the mountains and water) to the practice of temple cuisine, and the enriched feasts have gradually become popular in high society. Folk have followed suit, according to the local eating habits of Luoyang, the radish, yam, sweet potato and other products are brought to the feast, and finally evolved into a party diet with local characteristics using homegrown ingredients in the Heluo area as raw materials.
Luoyang water mat
It can be seen that the reason why Luoyang Water Mat is called "Water Mat" is because the table contains many dishes with soup. However, "The Wind Rises in Luoyang" takes a pool of clear water into the seat and produces a veritable Luoyang "water seat". Following the camera into the feast of the county lord, the first thing that jumps into view is a water pavilion, the warm sun sprinkles on the water of the looping pool, and the water surface is flooded with ripples. In the pavilion, the seating order of the host and all the guests is determined by the ceremony, and the crowd sits around the table, and in the table are two waterways, with water wheels driving the water flow, dishes moving downstream in the water, and the treasures of various colors of water and land rotate, just like flowing water. The crowd can take a plate and eat the delicacies in front of them, and the guests and hosts are happy. The celadon white bowl continues to move slowly forward, and indeed looks a bit like the modern rotary self-help that moves through the tracks.
In the TV series "The Wind Rises in Luoyang", "Qu Shui Liu Shui Shui Xi"
Both traditions contain profound Chinese cultural accumulation, and are inherent drinking and eating culture forms formed in history. The innovative shape blends traditional festive customs and local specialties, allowing people to enjoy both leisure and poetry, as well as feasting and indulging in it. If Won Ji could travel through time and space to experience it for himself, I believe it would make him unforgettable.
The cheese is delicious and the crispy mountain is amazing
Cheese is available all over the world, and the recipes are different. What does traditional cheese look like in our country?
In the pre-Qin period, the Han people did not have the habit of drinking milk, but the northern nomads "used meat as food and cheese as pulp". China's earliest theoretical work of Chinese medicine, "The Yellow Emperor Neijing Suwen", also records that the peoples of the Western Regions eat fresh milk: "Their folk music is wild and milk food". During the Northern Wei Dynasty, the Qi Min Zhi Shu recorded the production method of dairy products: "milk into cheese, cheese into puff pastry, crisp into Daigo". This is the earliest form of Chinese cheese.
By the time of the Southern and Northern Dynasties, cheese was still very precious and could only be enjoyed by princes and nobles, but among the scholars, cheese had become a symbol of the northern diet. Liu Yiqing's "World Speaking New Languages and Speeches" says: "Lu Ji ji Yi Wang Wuzi, Wuzi in front of the number of sheep cheese, refers to Lu Yue: Why is Qing Jiangdong hostile to this?" Lu Yun: There is a thousand miles of soup, but it is not salted. Here, Lu Ji and Wang Ji used the soup (lettuce soup) and sheep cheese (sheep dairy products) representing the food culture of the north and south to map the Jiangnan Shi ethnic group from the south and the Central Plains ethnic group living in the north, respectively, to show the different identities and political positions of the two sides. This metaphor of borrowing lettuce soup and feta cheese to refer to the north and south has been used by later generations and become classics. The Qianlong Emperor of the Qing Dynasty also wrote a poem: "Lettuce soup has never been salted, why should Wang Ji be called a tyros slave" .
During the Tang Dynasty, due to the open exchange policy, crisp and cheese were gradually popularized in the Han diet, and the methods were also diverse, which could be eaten directly or made dim sum. Datang's consumption of dairy products is indeed popular, and even Bai Juyi loves to "melt snow and fry fragrant tea, and cook chyme with crispness". The Tang Dynasty poet Liu Yuxi, whose ancestral home is Luoyang, once wrote in the "Longmen Prayer and Rain Song": "Mouth stained Qingquan wins the crispy cheese, Bulu Xingyun is in control", which means that the Qingquan in the mouth of the Dragon King is sweeter than the cheese, but it also reflects the taste of the puff pastry from the side.
Ice puff pastry in "The Wind Rises in Luoyang"
In "The Wind Rises in Luoyang", the ice puff pastry sold by the cheese mill is as white as jade, and there are fruit decorations, which are mouth-watering. The Tang people found that when saltpeter was dissolved in water, it would absorb a lot of heat, causing the water to condense into ice, so some people used ice to make food. The cheese made in this way was called ice cheese in the Song Dynasty, and the Southern Song Dynasty poet Yang Wanli once wrote a poem describing: "It seems to be greasy and cool, and it is condensed and desired." The bottom of the jade plate is crushed, and the snow is sold to the mouth", describing the ice cheese that melts in the mouth as very delicious. The habit of eating ice cheese has continued, and even during the Yuan Dynasty, it became famous in Europe, and Marco Polo recorded the hobby of eating ice cheese in the "Oriental Observations": "In the El Dorado of the East, the residents like to eat milk ice."
During the Tang Dynasty, there was also a court dessert made of puff pastry called "Crispy Mountain". Crispy mountain is a cheese with honey added to it, dripping into the utensils to make it appear in the shape of a mountain, then using ice to shape, and finally inserting flowers and other ornaments on the "mountain". Wang Lingran wrote in "Su He Shan Fu": "Although the precious food is fresh, and the Su (crisp) mountain is exquisite", it can be seen that the crisp mountain is also a rare dish among the eight precious jade foods in the court.
The mural on the east wall of Yongdao in front of Prince Tang Zhanghuai's tomb holds a man's maid holding "Crispy Mountain"
Sashimi originated from China The Tang dynasty likes to eat it
Nowadays, when it comes to sashimi, many people first think of sashimi sashimi in Japanese restaurants, but sashimi actually originated in China and spread to Japan during the Tang Dynasty. The Shijing Xiaoya June records that "drinking yu yu friends, boiling turtle carp", according to the "Shuowen" saying that "the fleshy and fine one is the fish", and the "fishy carp" refers to the raw carp fillet. It can be seen that since the pre-Qin period, Chinese have been eating sashimi. In the Tang Dynasty, the wind of eating fish and fish was a masterpiece, from the palace jade plate delicacies to the ordinary diet of the people, you can see the figure of the fish, and even some people wrote a special introduction to the knife skills of the "Book of Cutting".
Looking at "The Wind Rises in Luoyang", the fish has been mentioned several times in just a dozen episodes. Fish is not only the daily cuisine of the people of The Tang Dynasty, but also the special cuisine of Luoyang. The "Luoyang Jialan Chronicle" wrote: "Beili City is located in the south of Luoshui, known as Sitong City, and the folk call yongqiao City. The fish of Iloilo are sold more than this, and the beards of the soldiers are all taken. The fish tastes beautiful. Kyoshi language: Luo Li Yi Bream, more expensive than cattle and sheep. "It can be seen that Luoyang's water system is developed, there are many rivers, water and land are Chen, and the fish produced are all of the best quality, especially the carp in Luoshui and the bream in Yishui, even more expensive than cattle and sheep." And if the scholars and the people want to eat, they will go to the market to buy it. The carp in Luoyang is suitable for fish, especially carp. Jia Sixun wrote in the "Qi Min Zhi Shu He Jie": "The meat of the fish, the one who is one foot long (carp), the first is the best", which shows his admiration for the carp fish. In modern parlance, such a one-foot-long carp is Jia Sixun's "dream carp".
Northern Song Dynasty women carved bricks
Despite its deliciousness, raw fish meat carries the risk of disease. Many famous doctors have discovered this very early, And Zhang Zhongjing pointed out in the "Outline of the Golden Plateau" during the Eastern Han Dynasty: "Eating fat, drinking cheese, making people have worms in their stomachs, for malaria", Su Dongpo also mentioned in "Dongpo Zhilin", "Residual suffering from red eyes, or words can not eat fat". But the fish is so delicious that it can't stop. There were still fish dishes in the Yuan dynasty court, and raw fish consumption was very rare in the Ming and Qing dynasties. With the change of dietary concepts, fish has gradually faded out of the Chinese table.
Chinese and Tang Dynasty tomb murals "Wild Feast"
Since ancient times, China has taught that the people take food as the sky, and food not only pursues color, fragrance, taste and shape, but also has cultural taste. Although the mystery of "Wind Rises in Luoyang" has not been solved, the delicious food is always a feast for the eyes. There are not only the rare and novel water mat shape system, but also a variety of historical famous foods, the dishes are rich and have cultural connotations, reflecting the reproduction and reconstruction of traditional food in modern film dramas, and condensing a new school of food culture.