Editor's Note:
"Wind Rises In Luoyang" ended in mixed praise, although there are many controversies, but the presentation of women's makeup in the Tang Dynasty also highlights the style of the times and the outstanding status of women. The female characters in the play reproduce the makeup style of women under the prosperity of the world, jacquard fabrics, Western style of gauze clothes highlight the open and open cultural background; cloud buns, fallen ponytails, flower makeup, shawls, tuan fans and other shapes present the details of the lives of people of all walks of life under the prosperity, so that the humanistic style and character emotions in the ancient city of Luoyang truly achieve "landing", fully restoring the fireworks atmosphere of Luoyang City. So is the woman's makeup in "Wind Rises Luoyang" "True Tang Style"? In Mr. Huang Xianpan's "Outline of Society in the Tang Dynasty", the makeup of Women in the Tang Dynasty is discussed in this way.
●Women's makeup ●
Fat powder Daiser's makeup, in ancient China, has long been practiced. In the Tang Dynasty, the humanities were splendid, and there were many palace concubines, making the six palaces pink and competing for beauty. Therefore, makeup is more intense. The makeup of Japanese Heian Dynasty women, also originated from the Tang Dynasty, and is now divided into seven items: bun beard, forehead yellow, eyebrow dai, vermilion powder, lipstick, flower tin, and makeup. However, due to the lack of materials, there is only a glimpse of it.
"Outline of Society in the Tang Dynasty" Huang Xianpan
Buns
According to the Tang Dynasty's "Burning Hub" (this book has been written, now quoted in the "Yuanjian Class Letter"), the Later Tang Dynasty's "Notes on Ancient and Modern China", and the Yuwen Clan's (date unknown) "Records of the Makeup Table", there are many types of Buns in the Tang Dynasty, which are listed as follows:
Half-turned bun Reverse bun Happy bun (the bun in the above Gaozu Palace)
Double Stirrup Looking at the Immortal Bun Uighur Bun Sorrow Bun Flying Bun Lily Bun (The Bun in the Xuanzong Palace above)
Guishun Bun Ping Fan Bun Trouble SweepIng Makeup Bun Pan Huan Bun Shocking Bun Throwing Family Bun Wo Fallen Bun (Yiyun Bun) Prisoner Bun (New Book of Tang Five Elements Chronicle) Wu Man Bun (Novel "The Legend of the Red Thread Lady")
Early Tang Dynasty hairstyle (Shaanxi History Museum Photo)
The throwing bun in the above column is found in the New Book of Tang and the Five Elements, which is said to be a Kyoto woman at the end of the Tang Dynasty who combs her hair and hugs her face with two sideburns, which is like a bun, which was called a bun at that time. Therefore, its shape can be imagined. The fallen bun is found in the Ancient and Modern Notes, which refers to the fallen system as the remnant of the fallen horse. The Later Han Shu Liang Ji Biography notes: Fallen horse bun, side on one side. Liang Xuling's "Yutai New Verse Sequence" has the sentence "The thin sideburns of the make-up cicada, the weeping beard of the fallen horse", which can be imagined as a kind of weeping beard. Uman, that is, the uranksha bun, is the image of the vertebral bun. In addition, such as lily bun, frightened bun, etc., you can infer its shape because of its name. If you want to know, how the shape really is, it is difficult to explore. However, when you read the Tang dynasty poetry collection, you know that there are two kinds of high buns and hanging beards. Let's start with the example of the high bun:
Fold the roadside flowers together, each holding a high bun, and the bun is high. (Hanshan's "Three Hundred and Three Poems")
Side hanging high bun with gold tungsten. (Cen Shan's "Dunhuang Taishou Backyard Song")
Green sideburns. (Wang Jian's "Palace Words")
High-bun cloud beard palace-like makeup. (Liu Yuxi's "Gift to Li Sikong Prostitute")
The beard is a foot tall. (Yuan Shu,"Li Wa Xing")
Sheng Tang Hairstyle (Shaanxi History Museum Photo)
Cen Shan's poem is a description of the shape of a high bun and a hanging sideburn, and Wang Jianshi is a high bun in the Yongzan Palace. According to the statue of the auspicious goddess of the Taihe Yakushi Temple in Japan, the shape of the tang dynasty's high bun can be inferred.
According to the above example, the bun in the Palace of the Tang Dynasty must be quite high. Lily buns, scare buns, etc., also high buns also. However, according to Wang Jian's "Song of Searching for a Short Bun" and Luo Qi's "BiHong'er's Poem" "Light Combing Small Bun Number Lazy Lai", then there were "short buns" and "small buns" at that time, it goes without saying.
Among the sideburns, there are the so-called cicada sideburns. According to the "Notes on Ancient and Modern Times", it was created by Mo Qiongshu, a palace man during the reign of Emperor Wen of Wei, and it looked like a cicada. Cover has this name because its two sideburns are extremely thin, very similar to cicada wings. There are many tang poems about the song of cicada sideburns, such as the following two or three:
The cicadas are lined with cicadas. (Lu Zhaolin's "Chang'an Ancient Meaning")
Cicada sideburns red crown pink light. (Liu Yanshi's "Miscellaneous Words of Lefu")
As for the example of weeping beard:
The beard of the fallen horse. (Zhang Changzong's "Taiping Princess Mountain Pavilion Banquet")
The flowers are swirling. (Chu Guangxi, "Night Watching Prostitute")
The bun is hanging down. (Meng Haoran, "Beauty Divides Incense")
The two moths comb the fallen horse. (Li Ji's "Slow Song")
The wind and the flow are exaggerated. (Bai Lotte's "Daishu Poems One Hundred Rhymes Sent to Micro")
The soft beard hangs on the forehead, and the bushes follow the cheeks. (Yuan Shu ,"Hate Makeup")
Late Tang Dynasty hairstyle (Shaanxi History Museum Photo)
The bun painted by the beauty screen under the imperial tree in Shosoin, Japan, and the statue of Nguyen Ham beauty excavated near Chang'an, are probably also a kind of weeping beard.
In addition, the Japanese "Great Treasure Order" has the so-called "treasure bun", and the "Commentary on the Interpretation of the Order" is said to decorate the bun with gold and jade, so the cloud "treasure bun". The cover is made of gold and jade, plutonium, step shake, etc., and the high bun is also imitated by the Tang people. The Tang poems are as follows:
For Junan Baoji. (Wang Bo," Lingaotai)
Mountain flower bun. (Li Bai's "Lyrics in the Palace")
Bao Bun high comb gold emerald. (Zhang Xiaobiao, "Yi Meiren")
Tired pillow Xu Zhen Bao Bun Pine. (Han Wei's "DayTime Sleep Poem")
Tang Dynasty women's makeup sequence (Shaanxi History Museum)
Yellow forehead
The woman's makeup on the forehead, with the so-called yellow forehead, a cloud of crow yellow, will be on the forehead, and yellow powder will be applied. A collection of Tang poems, there are many records. For example, two or three are as follows:
Fibrous early moon on the crow yellow. (Lu Zhaolin's "Chang'an Ancient Meaning")
Slight sweat wants to sell yellow. (Yang Juyuan, "Beauty Spring Grudge")
The forehead is half yellow. (Wu Rong, "Endowed with Desire to See Makeup")
The uterine is lightly yellowish. (Wang Ya's "Palace Words")
Fluttershy adds yellow seeds, and the flowers are full of green beards. (Wen Tingjun, "Southern Songzi")
Yellow head invades greasy hair. (Wei Zhuang,"Female Crown")
Eyebrows
Chinese women, early with eyebrows. Descend to the Tang Dynasty, and do the same. According to the "Hailu Fragments" (not seen in this book, according to the "Peiwen Yunfu Zhiyun"), Tang Xuanzong ordered the painter to draw ten eyebrows: one mandarin duck eyebrow; two small mountain eyebrows; three five Yue eyebrows; four three peak eyebrows; five yue hanging pearl eyebrows; six yue yue yue eyebrows, also known as the moon eyebrows; seven yue split eyebrows; eight han smoke eyebrows; nine yue fu cloud eyebrows, also known as horizontal smoke eyebrows; ten inverted dizzy eyebrows.
Tang Dynasty eyebrow form sample (Shaanxi History Museum)
According to the "Makeup Table Record", the thrush in the Five Dynasties Palace, one is the Kaiyuan Royal Love Eyebrow, the other is the Small Mountain Eyebrow... The name given is the same as that of "The Broken Story of the Sea Record". He is also a member of the Zhenyuan Palace, who loves to paint moth eyebrows with Qingdai, which is also included in the "Makeup Table Record". The "Notes on Ancient and Modern Chinese" says that Yang Guifei can draw black eyebrows. Although there are various differences in the painting method of eyebrows, when reading Tang poems, I know that there are two kinds of thick and wide and light and thin. Let's start with the example of the former:
Whiskers are widespread at any time. (Shen Qi's "Li Yuanwai Qin Aid House Viewing Prostitute")
Light sideburns comb wide eyebrows. (Zhang's "Advocate Women's Words")
Eyebrows of the coagulated moth. (Yuan Shu ,"Hate Makeup")
The eyebrows of the beauties under the tree that were written earlier certainly belong to this category. Take the latter for example:
Lightly sweep moth eyebrows towards the Supreme. (Zhang Hu's "Ji Ling Tai" No. 2)
Eyebrows can be light. (Meng Haoran, "Beauty Divides Incense")
Qing dai dot eyebrows slender eyebrows. (Bai Juyi, "Xinle Fu Shangyang White-Haired Man")
Lian Juan swept her eyebrows. (Wen Tingjun, "Southern Songzi")
Palace-like clothes light thrush. (Han Wei," "Laughter")
In addition to the above list, there are also figure eight eyebrows. The eight-character eyebrow has long been popular in the palace of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, and will be found in Tang poems, to name a few:
Baojing Xiu evened the figure eight eyebrows. (Wei Yingwu", "Sending Palace People into the Dao")
Double eyebrow painting eight low. (Bai Juyi, "Xinle Fu Shi Shi Shi Makeup")
Vermilion powder
Tang Dynasty women love red makeup, first rub white powder, and then add vermilion, for example:
Fu Fan was very expensive, and Shi Zhu was pitiful. (Yuan Shu ,"Hate Makeup")
Thin powder light Zhu take the second application. (Luo Qiu's "BiHong'er Poem")
Painted figurines (Shaanxi History Museum collection)
In addition, the example of red makeup is Judo:
Red pink spring makeup treasure mirror urge. (Meng Haoran," "Spring Love")
Beauty red makeup is fresh. (Cen Shan's "Dunhuang Taishou Backyard Song")
The green moth's red face was overwhelmed. (Sikong Shu,"Watching prostitutes")
Red lead whisks the face of the thin waist man. (Zhang Hu," Li Jiazhu Branch)
Blushing eyebrows when wearing makeup. (Luo Qiu's "BiHong'er Poem")
A thick red face tilted. (Ibid.)
This kind of red makeup, the face of the beauty under the tree, is an example. Another example of light makeup is as follows:
Lead Hua is not naïve. (Emperor Ming's "Title Mei Concubine Painting True")
Concubine Shan belongs to the text, self-thanks to the woman, light makeup and elegant clothes, and the posture is clear and beautiful, which cannot be described. (The Biography of Princess Mei)
But the fat powder stained the color, lightly sweeping the moth's eyebrow towards the supreme. (Zhang Hu's "Ji Ling Tai" No. 2)
Favorite lead thin makeup. (Zheng Shi's "Poetry of Giving Prostitutes to the Clouds")
Yuanna waist and light makeup. (Han Wei," "Yuanna")
It also looks like red and light makeup. (Luo Qiu's "BiHong'er Poem")
According to Wang Renyu's "Kaiyuan Tianbao Testament", in the middle of the year, tianbao's special makeup is very popular, and there are so-called "tear makeup". Concubines in the palace, Shi Su powder on both cheeks, the phase number is "tear makeup". Those who knew it thought it was ominous, and then there was the chaos of Lushan Mountain.
The woman also rubbed white powder on her chest, and read the poem below, which can be understood.
Long white snow occupies the chest. (Shi Yiwu, "Guan MeiRen")
Pink chest half-concealed dark snow. (Fang Gan," "Gift of Beauty")
Powdered blue breast snow pressed plum. (Han Wei," "There is a gift on the table")
Lipids (swallow)
Swallow branches, rub on the face. However, during the reign of Emperor Tang and Emperor Zhaozong, Kyoto women competed to rub their lips to distinguish between them and their faces. Try to read the "Hidden Book" (according to the "Yuanjian Class Letter") and "Makeup Table Record", then the Tang Dynasty women, rubbing the swallow on the lips is not uncommon. However, because of the way it is rubbed, it is different, and the name is different from it. The types are enumerated as follows:
Pomegranate Petite Big Red Spring Little Red Spring Tender Wu Xiang Half Side Delicate WanJin Hong
Holy Sandalwood Heart, Rud pearl Inner Home ("Makeup Table" Garden Circle) Tiangong Qiao
Luo Eryin Pale Red Heart Orangutan Halo Little Zhu Longge Double Tang Mei Flower Slave Look
According to the New Book of Tang and the Five Elements, in the last years of the Yuan Dynasty, women practiced strange makeup, did not rub red powder, and only applied black paste to the lips, which seemed to be a sad cry. Bai Lotte's "Time Makeup" so-called "black paste lips like mud" is also.
Chart of Women's Lip Makeup Styles in Past Dynasties (Shaanxi History Museum)
Poems about lipstick are rare. Cen Shan's poem has the sentence "Zhu Li a little peach blossom Yin" ("Drunken Drama Dou Zi Beauty" poem), or this refers to this. However, the lips of the beauty under the tree, Naiming is rubbing the swallow branch.
Flower tin
According to Song Cheng's "Chronicle of Things", women in the Tang Dynasty made facial makeup and had the so-called "flower tin" people. Princess Shouyang, the daughter of Emperor Wu of the Gai Song Dynasty, began to make up plum blossoms. In the "Crown Jewelry" section of the "Chronicle of Things", there is a record of huadian:
The "Youyang Miscellaneous Tricks" says: "The woman's face decoration is decorated with flowers, which were made by The Tang Shangguan Zhaorong to hide the traces." "According to the Sui Wen Palace woman paste five-colored flowers, then it has its own system before, and it seems that it does not rise from the Shangguan clan." The Book of Miscellaneous Five Elements says: "Princess Shouyang, the daughter of Emperor Wu of the Song Dynasty, lies under the eaves of the Hanzhang Hall on a daily basis, and the plum blossoms fall on the forehead, forming five flowers, and the whiskers do not go away, and after three days, the washing is falling, and the palace people are strange and competitive." "Hanako's work is suspected from this.
The white-green shape between the eyebrows of the beauties under the tree is probably the same. Wen Tingjun's poem has clouds: "The face is golden and thin, and the eyebrows are deep" ("Nan Gezi"), which can also be referred to. However, the so-called "flower and tin land is not received" in "Long Hate Song" is the flower hairpin of gold, which is different from this.
Make-up
With the flowers between the eyebrows, there are "makeup". The makeup is tied with green dan on the cheeks, which is also the will of the plum makeup. In the "Crown Jewelry" section of the "Chronicle of Things", there is a section on makeup:
In recent times, women make up, like to make powder, such as moon shapes, like money, or with Zhu Ruoyan fat points, The Tang people are also shangzhi, Duan Chengshi "Youyang Miscellaneous Tricks" said:
"Like a moon shooter, it is called a yellow star." The name of Jing Dian, covered from Wu Sun and mistakenly injured Lady Deng's cheek, healed with white otter marrow, anointed with too much amber, the traces are not extinguished, there are red dots, more beneficial to its Yan, all those who want to be favored, all with Danqing dotted cheeks, this is also the beginning. Youyun: "Before the Great Calendar, the husband and wife of the scholar are more jealous, and the concubines are less than satisfactory, then the face is printed, so there is a little money in the month, so if you are like this, then it is not a good thing." In the Song Wu Palace, Shu Shouyang fell plum blossom makeup, which was also its will. ”
Under the tree, the two cheeks of the beauty have white and green makeup, and the cover is also made-up. Yuan Shu Shiyun: "Full of small combs, face to face with a round jing" ("Hate Makeup" poem), also clearly refers to this matter.
The makeup of the Women of the Tang Dynasty is quite similar to the makeup of the beautiful screen painting under the Japanese tree, which is enough to prove the Japanese culture and is given by the Tang Dynasty.
END