Headline number signed author: Pu Tieniu
It is a shame to say that the first time I ate Shaanxi Liangpi and Northern Sichuan Liang powder, it was not in their places of origin, Shaanxi and Sichuan, but in Guangzhou. At first, I thought that Shaanxi Liangpi and Chuanbei Liangquan were the same thing, but later I learned that these two foods were only similar in appearance and shape, and the ingredients and production processes were completely different.
There are many categories of Shaanxi liangpi, such as sesame sauce dough, Qinzhen rice peel, Hanzhong dough skin, Qishan rolling dough skin, Guanzhong gluten cold skin, etc., and what we eat outside Shaanxi is basically Guanzhong gluten cold skin, so, for me personally, gluten cold skin is equivalent to Shaanxi cold skin.
The production of Shaanxi cool skin is first of all to wash the gluten, first and good noodles, feed for a period of time, about half an hour is almost, and then put the dough in water to wash, wash the gluten to tap the dough, do not go to knead, when the dough is washed to no more starch flowing out, even if it is washed. Washed gluten can be steamed on the cage, can also be boiled in the pot, before steaming can be added to the gluten a little baking soda, so that gluten is weaker, more delicious, steamed and put aside. The washed starch water should be left to stand for a period of time, and some people put the starch water overnight to make it precipitate more fully. After the starch water is precipitated, the water on it is poured out, and the rest is the starch pulp that has condensed, then add water to it, stir it into a thin and moderate batter, and you can start steaming the cool skin.
Old Father
After the water boils, pour the batter into the cool skin gong, shake the gong in a circle, so that the batter is evenly laid out in the gong, and then put it into the pot of boiling water, and some people put a grate in the pot, put the gong on the grate and steam, about five minutes or so, you can get out of the pot. When eating, cut the dough into wide and thin strips according to your own preferences, and then tear (or cut) the cooked gluten to be used into strips, put the dough and gluten in the bowl, add chili oil, vinegar, cucumber shreds and other accessories and spices, a bowl of cold skin is done.
Northern Sichuan cold powder is mainly produced in Nanchong, Sichuan and other northern Sichuan regions, the main raw materials are selected in the northern Sichuan region of high mountains pollution-free, long light, full of particles, high starch content of hemp skin pea. To make northern Sichuan cold powder, first soak the peas in water for about 6-8 hours until they are soaked. The soaked peas are then ground into soy milk with water and filtered with a strainer cloth. The first filter is the original juice slurry, the concentration is large, and it is packed in a container and placed aside. The second and third times add water to filter, the purpose is to filter out most of the starch, after about 3 hours, remove the above water, take out the oil powder and starch precipitated below.
Mrs. Ginger
Then pour the first filtered out of the original juice into the pot, while heating while using a small wooden rolling pin to continuously stir, to boil, and then the second and third filtered out of the oil powder and starch (concentration of about 60%) slowly added to the pot, while adding while constantly stirring in one direction, so that it and the original juice of the first pot mixed, and continue to cook on low heat for 10 minutes can start the pot, pour into the ceramic utensils for cooling. Finally, cut the cooled cold powder into self-visually comfortable strips, put them in a bowl, add salt, green onion and red pepper oil and serve. Depending on your preferences, you can also add an appropriate amount of sesame oil, garlic and soy sauce.
Regarding the origin of Shaanxi Liangpi, it goes back to the ancient Xia Dynasty. The eleventh grandson of Hou Ji, the ancestor of the Chinese nation's farming, succeeded him as the leader of the Zhou tribe, and in order to avoid tyranny, the strong and loyal Gong Liu resolutely organized a tribal migration in the clan land. The article "Shijing • Daya • Dugong Liu" records the whole process of Gong Liu leading the people to migrate, choose land, build houses and build a country. "Du Gong Liu, bandit Kang." It is the frontier, it is the accumulation of the warehouse, it is the bread, and it is the sac. Si Ji used the light, bow Ya Si Zhang, Gang Ge Qi Yang, Ye Fang set off. "It is said that the loyal Gong Liu did not dare to settle down in the original fiefdom, prepare enough dry food, carry all kinds of weapons, purposefully leave the fiefdom of Tai, and move north along the Jing River to the Feng land.
Imperial noodles
When he came to The Land of Feng (豳地, in present-day Binzhou City, Shaanxi Province), Gong Liu saw that it was a sunny place, fertile land, rich in products, and able to accommodate a large population. He "was in the wilderness, returned to the original, died in the hundred springs, naizhi Nangang, Zhan Bi Puyuan", saw the endless yuan, is a good place to develop the Beijing division in the future, and announced to the clan to settle down here. After settling down, Gong Liu led his people to use the shadow of the sun to see the mountains, fix the north and south, look at the water phase, measure the lowlands and plateaus, demarcate the boundaries of the fields, open up the land and cultivate the fields, and restore the agricultural undertakings pioneered by Guangda Houji, since then the nomadic agriculture of the Chinese nation has been transferred to settled agriculture, and posterity has called Gong Liu the ancestor of the people, also known as the originator of the Chinese nation's settled agriculture, and his merit and influence are second only to his ancestor Hou Ji. He also led his people to cross the water, collect talc and pound stones, transport them back to the land, consolidate the foundations, and build cave dwellings for many people.
After the Zhou tribe settled in the land, the clan asked Gong Liu what is the name of our country, and The Gong Liu who is farming looks at the mountains opposite, birds and flowers, pigs call sheep, shuttles in the forest, colorful scenery, there are pigs on the mountain, the scenery of the pig in the mountain is painted on the ground, becoming a character. Since then, the script has spread throughout the classical scriptures. At the same time, Gong Liu was elected as the monarch by the people, and the city was named the State of Feng. Since then, Zhou Daozhixing has "the practitioners have the resources, the residents have the reserves, the people depend on their celebrations, the people cherish it, and they migrate more and return to the house." After Shu Wang, Kun, Qingjie, Imperial Servant, Taisu, Chafu, Shaomu, Chengqi, Yin Zhong, Huaide, Ruin, Gongfei, Zhixiang, Shangzhen, Gao Yuan, Hou Ben, Ya Yuan, Yan Du, Shuzu, Shuying, and Gu Gonggong's father, twenty-one monarchs lived for 300 years, and the Zhou tribe became increasingly powerful.
Gluten cool skin
After so long, it's time to get the point. When the country developed to the time when the father of the ancient gonggong lived in the house, the wheat was harvested year after year, and the wheat was cooked and eaten tired. Why do I think that such good wheat is always boiled to eat? He asked his wife, Tai Jiang, to make a more exquisite food to sacrifice to the ancestors and feed the world? This Taijiang was not a simple housewife, she was the grandmother of King Wen of Zhou, the founding monarch of the Zhou Dynasty, known for being "good at cooking", and later invented the jujube rolling pin. Tai Jiang listened to Gu Gong's father's question, pondered for a moment, and then replied, "Wait for the concubine to try it." ”。 So she broke the wood into a pestle, dug the ground into a mortar, and made a large hammer that now looked very rough. Don't underestimate this rough big hammer, which is the prototype of the hammer, which, like the stone mill, has made an outstanding contribution to grain processing from ancient times to today.
Mrs. TaiJiang puts the wheat into the mortar and spoons it into a powder with a wooden pestle. However, due to the rough production of the stone mortar, when the wheat is scooped, the stone slag in the stone mortar is also scooped into the wheat flour, which is difficult to spoil Mrs. Taijiang. How can you eat so much slag in wheat flour? At that time, food was not easy to come by, and it was absolutely not wasted. Thinking about it, he decided to use water to remove the stone slag, so, unconsciously, the virtuous and intelligent Mrs. Taijiang invented four processes: "washing noodles", "refining noodles", "steaming noodles", and "cutting noodles". At the end of the process, Mrs. Taijiang put the finished product into a pottery bowl, added salt, vinegar and other spices, and tasted it with the ancient gonggong father, who deeply thought that this pasta was the most delicious food in the world and should only be owned by the royal palace. Gu Gonggong's father was embraced by the Zhou tribe as the Son of Heaven, and the deeds and things used by the Emperor of Tianzi were honored as "Yu", so this pasta was called "Royal Noodles", because its appearance was as bright as jade, so it was also called "Jade Noodles".
Wash muscles
From the Xia Zhou until the Tang Xuanzong period of the Tang Dynasty, imperial noodles have always been the food of the imperial court. The noodles are thicker, somewhat like the rice and tofu we have in Hunan now. During the Tang Xuanzong period, the imperial noodles became thinner and thinner, evolving into the dough skin, because the commonly used way of eating was cold mixing, so it was called cold mix dough skin, referred to as "cold skin". Yang Guifei especially liked to eat cold skins, and under the influence of Yang Guifei, the empresses, concubines, princesses, talents, maids, and even princes and horses and officials of more than three pins of the Nine Forbidden Palaces all took it as a pleasure to eat cold skins. During the Tianbao period, Emperor Xuanzong was addicted to wine, the state minister gained power, An Lushan rebelled, and the country's power declined day by day, and he blamed all his troubles on his son Emperor Suzong. When he was in his seventies, he dismissed the three thousand beauties of the harem, so that the cool skin spread to the people. So far, in Binzhou City, Shaanxi Province, yu noodles, as a traditional flavor characteristic noodle dish, are only popular in Changwu, Binxian, Xunyi and surrounding areas in The Weibei region of Shaanxi, while liangpi has long blossomed everywhere in China.
A cool leather gong steamed with a cool skin
The origin of the northern Sichuan cool powder is also a long time ago, but it is more than a thousand years younger than the cool skin that comes out of the imperial noodles. Legend has it that during the Shu Han Dynasty, the Jialing River ferry wharf in Anhan County (present-day Nanchong City), between fishing boats and cargo ships, above the sand dunes and pebbles, there were two pergola sheds, the greenhouse surnamed Xue, known as Xue Liang Powder. The small shed's surname is Xie, and his name is Xie Liangfan. Greenhouses operate cold spin spindle cold powder, and small sheds operate hot food slice cold powder. The two cold powders have different beginnings. The same soft and tender, refreshing and pleasant, the same spicy and fresh flavor, its taste is endless. The Xue family girl and the Xie family son are happy with each other, happy to have a good relationship, the two families converge, collectively known as Xie Liang Powder, because An Han is located in northern Sichuan, so people prefer to call this cuisine Northern Sichuan Liang Powder.
Zhang Fei, who was the Taishou of Bashi County (present-day Langzhong), inspected Anhan, loved the northern Sichuan cold powder, was rewarded, and became a tribute of Liu Bei of the Shu Kingdom, and the northern Sichuan cool powder was able to squeeze into the bustling city, and the skilled craftsmen, took the xichong shannan pepper, picked the southern Jiangbei bean clip, modified the powder, and then mixed the red oil, with a crispy and fragrant small pot kui, with a unique flavor and delicious abnormality. Brake time, old food patronizes, hungry insects arrive, traffic is busy, diners are full of doors.
Northern Sichuan cool powder
Wind and rain have been fluctuating for hundreds of years, and the years have been passed down for dozens of generations. Northern Sichuan cool powder has undergone several twists and turns, and continued into the 1950s. It coincided with Zhu De's return to his hometown and brought northern Sichuan liang powder to Beijing, and his reputation became famous for a while.
Two cuisines, two sources, historical allusions, each wonderful. In the end, which story is more credible, the benevolent see the wise. Personally, I think that the source allusions of the cool skin are closer to the truth. First of all, at that time, there was already wheat available in China, and there was no problem with the ingredients. In 1955, a large number of carbonized wheat particles were found in the Diaoyutai Neolithic site in Bo (bo) County, Anhui Province, which proved that wheat had been cultivated in China in ancient times 5,000 years ago. Secondly, the broken wood is a pestle, and the digging of the ground is the usuki of the "Zhou Yi ZhiXia": "The broken wood is the pestle, the digging of the ground is the mortar, the benefit of the mortar pestle, the people are helped, and the small transgressions are covered." "It proves that during the Western Zhou Dynasty, grain processing with pestles and mortars had already begun. The three liangpi flourished in the Tang Dynasty because in the Tang Dynasty stone grinding has been popularized in the folk, stone grinding is more efficient and more practical than pestle mortar, so the prosperity of liangpi in the Tang Dynasty does have some truth.
The allusion of the northern Sichuan cold powder is obviously untrue, and one of the passages is described as follows: "Take the southern pepper of the western Chongshan Mountain, pick the southern Jiangbei bean clip, change the powder, and then mix the red oil." As far as I know, peas were introduced to China from the Western Han Dynasty, and there is no problem with the main ingredients on the market, but chili peppers in China did not become popular until the end of the Ming Dynasty, and the above passage just proves that the origin of northern Sichuan cold powder should occur after the Ming Dynasty.
However, this is just my personal one-sided conjecture, and people who love these two kinds of heavy food should not take it seriously.
All the pictures in this article come from the Internet, if there is infringement, please contact to delete.
Resources
"The Types of Shaanxi Liangpi"
Source: Shaanxi Provincial Geological Network
The Legend of the Kingdom of Fengguo
Source: Guanzhong Knifeman's blog
《Sichuan Intangible Cultural Heritage Food Inventory: Northern Sichuan Cold Powder》
Source: Sichuan Civilization Network