My mom loves cold powder.
Love to eat but wherever there is a cold powder stall, it will be like a child who smells sugar, unconsciously looking back several times.
The southern cool powder made of coix seeds has a mellow taste, the sweetness of the red bean paste and the thickness of the condensed milk are addictive; the ice powder made of pearl lotus is clear and refreshing, and the rustic brown sugar water moisturizes the soul that craves sweets; the northern cold powder with grain starch as the main ingredient is more elastic, and the fragrant red oil or sesame sauce makes people want to come to a bowl from time to time...
But all the "cool powder" with plants as raw materials, the mother can be said to be a person who does not refuse.
The cold powder stalls that could be seen everywhere in the streets and alleys of Chongqing and Chengdu made her "happy" and almost had to eat at least one meal every day. Occasionally, I have just finished a formal meal, and when I pass by the cold powder stall, I still can't help but buy another bowl.
There are two kinds of cool powder on the left side, the yellow color on the left is Chongqing Rongchang yellow powder, and the white color on the right side is northern Sichuan cool powder
Sichuan's most famous, of course, must be said to have become a provincial intangible cultural heritage of northern Sichuan liang powder.
Authentic Chuanbei cold powder uses hemp peas as raw materials, and the cold powder made looks white and raw, crystal clear and lovely.
The seasonings usually include soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, peppercorns, chili oil, tempeh marinade and garlic paste, as well as green onions. It tastes tender and soft, smooth and sharp.
Speaking of which, we also heard a great uncle say something interesting about liang powder in northern Sichuan in the tai'an ancient town behind the Qingcheng Mountain.
We were resting, I was holding up the roasted sausage I had just bought, and a nearby uncle was chatting with a middle-aged man holding a rice bowl. Because we speak the Sichuan dialect, we don't understand much. But because I always patronized the cold powder stall during that time, my mother's ear pointed out the word "cool powder" from the dialogue, so she became curious and pulled me to listen together.
I listened with my ear up for half a day, barely able to hear the question of whether the local snacks were authentic. The most interesting thing is the sentence "Oh, the poet Saint Du Fu also mentioned poetry to The LiangFan in Northern Sichuan.".
When I went out, I knew that snacks from all over the motherland especially liked to "pull relations" with celebrities, so at that time, I only thought that these two were gossiping and blowing water. But after thinking about it, I couldn't help but wonder: Where did Uncle Uncle's words come from? Is it Du Fu's poem again?
|“ Farmhouse snack "How sichuan northern cold powder dominates the sichuan cold powder world."
There are actually many kinds of rice cold powder in Sichuan, in addition to the famous Northern Sichuan Cold Powder, which has become a provincial intangible cultural heritage, there are also Chongqing Rongchang Yellow Cool Powder, Chengdu Sadness Cold Powder, Suining Wozi Cool Powder and so on.
Although Chuannan, Chuandong and Chuanxi all have their own cool powders, Chuanbei Cool Powder has conquered the taste buds of the public with its own continuous improvement of thick soy sauce, moderate sourness, rich garlic and fragrant but not dry spicy taste.
Chuanbei cold powder is also cut into strips or thin slices, but the most distinctive thing is to use a small colander-like spin to spin out a slender strip like a vermicelli. In addition to the taste is more tender and special, and from the appearance, it is easier to think of the ancient food of "fine soo cold powder" in "Tokyo Dream Record".
In addition to mixing and eating directly, Chuanbei cold powder also has a unique way to eat sandwiched into the pot helmet: the crispy pot helmet taste sets off the cold powder more fresh and smooth, and the aroma of baked wheat noodles will also stimulate the aroma of peas in the cold powder, and the two aromas are intertwined with each other, mixed with spicy and very spicy rice.
Northern Sichuan cool powder originated in Nanchong City, Sichuan Province, at the end of the Qing Dynasty.
At that time, there was a farmer named Xie Tianlu in Jiangcunba, on the bank of the Jialing River in Nanchong County, who loved to eat cold powder since he was a child, and later had his own plans to start a business. So he went around learning the craft of making cold powder, built a tent at the ferry port of the Jialing River, and began his own business of "bearing cold powder". In the process, he has been studying the production process of cold powder, and has gathered the strengths of all the families to create a unique production method.
Xie Tianlu does not use rice to make cold powder, but selects hemp peas with full particles and high starch content in the mountains of northern Sichuan, after shelling, use well water to develop well, rinse clean, use stone grinding to slowly push the pulp, filter to remove slag, precipitate dehydration, and extract starch. Then use a large iron pot to boil water and stir carefully, then put it into a clay pot and let it cool. The resulting cold powder is delicate in texture, tender in taste, soft and ribbed, thin and continuous.
In terms of seasoning, Xie Tianlu also made sufficient efforts. In particular, the red oil used to enhance the taste not only needs to be freshly made during the day, but also the raw materials such as chili peppers, peppercorns, shallots and rapeseed oil used to refine the red oil must be produced locally in Sichuan. When refining red oil, peppers and peppercorns and rock sugar are first sautéed in a pan over low heat, let cool and crush. Then fry the ginger and green onion leaves in oil, add the previously scooped chili pepper and pepper powder, stir well until fully reacted, and then set aside...
The cold powder made with such care has a natural and extraordinary taste. When Xie Tianlu's reputation gradually spread in Nanchong, the production method did not go away. Later, the famous Xie Tianlu cool powder in the north of Sichuan was called "Xie Liang Powder".
After the "Xie Liang Powder", Chuanbei Liang Powder did not stop its footsteps, and another farmer named Chen Hongshun continued to study the cool powder process left by Xie Tianlu, further improved the preparation of red oil and the method of making cold powder, and made his "Chen Liang Powder" also famous.
Since then, the improvement process of Chuanbei cool powder has been like the inertia of a wheel that has traveled rapidly.
Later, people continued to improve the production process, and successively gave birth to "Li Liang Powder", "Zhang Liang Powder" and other well-known brands.
For example, Zhang Liang powder at the mouth of the cave was popular from the period of the War of Resistance Against Japan.
During the period of air raids in Chengdu, crops were difficult to harvest, but the surviving people had to continue to eat, so some snack merchants spent very little rent to set up simple grass huts next to the woods and mills where people avoided air raids, selling cold powder, tangyuan, pasta and the like, easy to operate and fill the stomach, Zhang Liang powder is one of them.
A bowl of spicy, refreshing and tender cold powder, after the entrance with the happiness and bitterness of the rest of the life, to fill the stomach, full of tears can also lie on the head of the pepper, it is also a lot of success.
In fact, in the countryside of Sichuan, people who can make cold powder abound. People like it, not only because the production process is relatively simple, but also because it is smooth and sharp to eat, which can be used as a snack to improve the taste, and can also be used as a meal or a food substitute. Coupled with the taste of young and old, this economical and affordable snack was naturally welcomed by the people and soon occupied a place in the snack market.
Throughout the Republic of China period, Northern Sichuan Cool Powder entered a period of rapid dissemination and development.
Around 1945, before the founding of the People's Republic of China, some chongqing cookers also had the idea of breaking the monopoly of the Northern Sichuan Liangfan family. They once renamed Chongqing's local cool powder "Yuzhou cool powder", but over time, this name has also been drowned in the torrential wave of folk northern Sichuan cool powder.
Wang Guangnan, a Suining native who promoted northern Sichuan cool powder to Chongqing, not only standardized the suining folk cold powder from the production method to seasoning, but also took advantage of Chongqing's extensive traffic to spread the reputation of his "heavenly" cold powder shop Chuanbei cool powder to a farther place with passers-by.
Although after the reform and opening up, the development of "Chuanbei Cool Powder" has suffered a major blow because the brand has been preemptively registered. However, in terms of reputation, circulation and other aspects, Chuanbei cool powder is still the well-deserved No.1 in Sichuan rice cold powder.
|what is the relationship between Du Fu's poems and northern Sichuan liangfan?
Nowadays, Chuanbei cold powder has become a very representative Sichuan dish, from the initial farmhouse snacks into the room, to the must-have cold dishes of Sichuan restaurants.
Judging from the origin time of northern Sichuan cool powder alone, it really cannot be related to Du Fu in the Tang Dynasty. But is it possible that the "predecessor" of the northern Sichuan cool powder, the "father's generation" or the "ancestor's" cool powder, is it possible that it is fortunate to be recited by the poetry saint?
At present, there are about 1,400 poems handed down by Du Fu, and there are also more than 400 poems about diet, but there are no direct verses about "cold powder".
In fact, this is normal. The names of many items are not only different from ancient to modern, but also may vary from region to region. Not to mention the food that has been circulating in China for a long time.
In fact, the earliest document that currently has the word "cool powder" appears is the "Tokyo Dream Record" of the Northern Song Dynasty Meng Yuanlao.
In Volume VIII, the portion of the Northern Song Dynasty that records the summer season snacks in the early years of the Northern Song Dynasty in Tokyo, June. It is said that the two shops outside the old Song Gate sell the best cold drinks and cold food, and among the various cold foods for example, there is a kind called fine cord cold powder.
Although the snack "Fine Cord Cold Powder" is not described in detail in "Tokyo Dream Record", it should be a cold food powder that looks very similar to today's fans, and is thin and long like a rope.
The record of "Tokyo Dream Hualu" illustrates two points: First, the food of cold powder was already popular in the early Song Dynasty. Second, the name "cool powder" appeared in the early Song Dynasty.
It is inferred from this that the possibility of the existence of this food in the Tang Dynasty before the Song Dynasty was not low, so Du Fu may indeed have tasted similar snacks.
Homemade sweet cold powder
Among Du Fu's more than 400 food-related poems, the most popular one is a poem called "Cold Tao of Locust Leaves". Du Fu was also rated by posterity as a model of loyalty for his king in this poem about summer seasonal snacks, saying that he "never forgot the king after a meal".
And "locust leaf cold tao" this kind of snack, because in the Qing Dynasty Yang Lun in the "Du Shi Jing Quan" (Du Fu's poem annotation), quoted the poetry note of the predecessor Zhang Qian, saying that cold tao is the name of a kind of pasta, made of locust leaf juice and noodles. ("Locust leaves taste cool and bitter.") Cold Tao, the name of the cooked noodles, is based on locust leaf juice and noodles. Therefore, many people in modern times have used this saying, mistakenly believing that "locust leaf cold tao" is a kind of cold food noodles.
However, in the historical documents written by the Republic of China, there is a correction of this fallacy.
For example, in the "Antique Trivia" of the historian Deng Zhicheng of the Republic of China, there is a "Cold Tao" that points out this fallacy. The article "Cool Powder" in the "Brahma Heaven Lu Series" written by Chai Xiaofan, which records the history of the Ming and Qing dynasties, is a relatively detailed explanation of whether "cold tao" is cold powder and not cold noodles:
Deng Zhicheng, the author of "Antique Trivia", said that although it is not meticulous, it is more witty and interesting:
"Wonton" is an ancient boiled noodle dish, which can be broadly understood as a food such as soup noodles, or narrowly understood as "slice soup".
Deng Zhicheng explained his understanding of the food "cold tao" in the form of the first and second sentences of the liquor order, although the language was somewhat vulgar, but it was straightforward and interesting. The last sentence is more direct, it feels like cold tao like a ravioli or its outer shape.
Leaving aside the statements of other commentaries and documents, let's look back at Du Fu's original poem "Cold Tao of Locust Leaves":
It can be seen from the text that Du Fu is eating a crystal clear, cold and refreshing food, and the shape seems to be not easy to maintain, either soup or too soft. If you want to give it to a friend to eat, you need to "fragrant rice and buds", and send the container containing this delicacy together.
And "fresh and green", the color is turquoise and clear, you can see the shadow of chopsticks through it. This translucent effect is obviously not caused by flour.
In fact, in the literature after the Tang Dynasty, there are indeed many people who say that this kind of "cold tao" practice is "made of locust leaves and noodles", but the key to distinguishing whether it belongs to powder or noodles lies in the content of "flour".
If it does not contain a large number of materials that can form a gelatinous substance, the use of flour alone, or the addition of too much flour, will not be able to form the effect of "fresh and fresh". Foods made by using a lot of plant starch and adding a small amount of wheat noodles should obviously be classified as "powder" rather than "noodles".
And the name "" was born out of the practice. Whether it is by cooling down to "solidify" or the main material is "repeatedly washed", it is obviously not in line with most pasta in the motherland.
This misunderstanding of confusing names is caused by the confusion of many culinary names before the Song Dynasty from the Ming and Qing dynasties onwards. Therefore, there are often some deviations in the ming and qing dynasties' accounts of food, and "cold tao" is even one of them.
However, even if it is proved that Du Fu's description of "locust leaf cold tao" is indeed a kind of cool powder, it cannot be proved that the cold tao of locust leaf has any direct relationship with the development and inheritance of Beichuan cold powder. Even where Du Fu's original bowl of locust leaf juice cold powder was eaten, it remains to be examined.
At best, it can say:
At this point, I have to sigh: the master is in the folk. The great uncle we met was indeed knowledgeable. Otherwise, he could not have casually attached a poem written by Du Fu praising liang powder to the local Sichuan northern liang powder.
However, thinking about the appearance of liangfan in northern Sichuan, I suddenly felt that Du Fu's poem was really appropriate and beautiful. Although the Chuanbei cool powder is usually translucent white, not the color of turquoise, but the Chuanbei cool powder that is scraped into slender thin strips is sandwiched between the chopsticks, and it is really bright enough to see the chopsticks, and the cool feeling in the mouth is definitely not worse than the summer ice cream.
Although the taste may be different, but think of the poetry Saint Du Fu more than 1,400 years ago, who also ate similar food to us, and had similar feelings with the unknown us, I feel extremely romantic and pleasant, and I would like to rush to the food stall now to put a bowl of cold powder.
| has become a part of folklore, the northern Sichuan cool powder is heading for the world
There is a saying that goes: "Less does not enter the river, the old does not come out of Shu". The delicious beauty of the country of Heaven makes too many tourists linger. I even had a friend who had planned to return to the northeast to settle down, but after a long trip the year before, he chose to settle in Chengdu.
Among the many cuisines in Sichuan, Sichuan northern cold powder can highlight the siege and become the "overlord" in the category of cold powder, in addition to its advantages such as taste and convenient production, it is also the advantage of regional specialties and the strength of the tireless enterprising spirit of practitioners.
Dongzikou Zhang Liang Powder home of Chuanbei Cool Powder
Hemp peas produced in the alpine regions of northern Sichuan have a high starch content and a delicate and white powder. In addition, Sichuan also has excellent texture of water resources, although it is the most basic material, but the quality of water has a great impact on the texture of cool powder.
Not to mention the necessary seasonings for northern Sichuan cold powder: chili peppers, peppercorns and bean paste, Sichuan has very high-quality materials.
The "innate" advantage has been achieved, and the "acquired" artificial efforts are naturally many.
Nowadays, the production process of northern Sichuan cool powder has "evolved" to require four levels and eight parts, a total of 24 processes.
The materials for making special red oil have also developed from Xie Tianlu's several spices in the past to thirty-two spices including star anise and cinnamon.
In Nanchong, the birthplace of cool powder in northern Sichuan, eating cold powder has become a folk custom. Every New Year's Festival, the locals of Nanchong, who squat on the side of the street to eat cold powder from northern Sichuan, have become a major scenic spot. Nanchong people also have the saying that "do not eat meat" on the first day of the New Year, so on the first day of the New Year, the large and small cold powder shops in Nanchong are a lively scene of crowds.
Of course, the development path of Beichuan cool powder in contemporary times is not smooth.
Before the founding of the People's Republic of China, there were stalls in the streets and alleys of Northern Sichuan, and during the public-private partnership in 1956, they were gradually integrated into state-run: Nanchong City Chuanbei Liangfan Shop. After the reform and opening up, the brand "Chuanbei Liang powder" was preemptively registered by a snack bar in Chongqing, and the name "Chuanbei Liang powder" was no longer allowed to be used by other stores selling Chuanbei liang powder. Nanchong's Beichuan Liang powder state-owned old store has lost the opportunity to develop outward during the rapid expansion of the motherland's catering industry. In 1998, the Chuanbei Liang powder store in Nanchong City was officially closed.
Until 2003, the young people of Nanchong ren Qisheng bought back the registered trademark of "Chuanbei" at a high price, reorganized the old state-owned store of Beichuan Liang powder in Nanchong, and established in 2004: Sichuan Chuanbei Liang powder food culture Co., Ltd. In this regard, Beichuan Liangfan once again returned to the Chinese famous food arena.
This is Chongqing Rongchang yellow cold powder, also made of peas, the taste is also good
Today's Beichuan cold powder is not only a snack, but also a very large-scale industry in Nanchong.
Nanchong's Northern Sichuan Liang powder industry cultural tourism park is being built in an orderly manner, which not only includes the assembly line and citizen park related to the production of northern Sichuan liang powder, but also the youth traditional skills education base and the intangible cultural heritage transmission base facilities.
With the advantages of the Internet and the extensive highways and railways, the "Northern Sichuan Cool Powder" that has been eaten quickly in recent years has been exported to 18 provinces, autonomous regions and cities in China. In 2018, the products of Nanchong Chuanbei Cool Powder Production Base have been exported to the United States, Australia, Canada and other countries.
Even in June 2018, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, opened the operation of the first overseas Sichuan North Cold Powder Experience Store.
Nowadays, the related products of "Chuanbei Cool Powder" and the snack itself of Chuanbei Cool Powder have gone to the world's table.
Although to this day, many people still criticize the fact that this company did not allow other stores to use the name of "Chuanbei Cool Powder" in that year. Even locals feel that the chain stores with the sign of "Chuanbei Liang powder" are not their favorite taste and do not match the "childhood memories", so they rarely patronize it. But I also have to acknowledge the important contribution made by this company in promoting the north of Sichuan cool powder to the outside world.
Authentic Sichuan cuisine pays attention to the selection of materials, paying attention to the individual uniqueness of "one dish and one grid" and the rich senses of "color and fragrance". A qualified Chuanbei cool powder can naturally meet all these requirements.
On the pale pea cold powder, the black watercress brine is lined with red and shiny red oil and green onions, which are also dotted with faint red and black peppercorns, snow-white garlic paste and yellowish ginger.
In addition to the spicy aroma of red oil, the mellowness of watercress brine and the slight acidity of vinegar, there is also a sweet and refreshing smell.
If you are deceived by this refreshing and come up with a large number of chopsticks the first time you eat it, you will definitely be frightened by the instant stimulation of the tip of your tongue. Chew it slowly, and the slightly sour spicy taste mixed with the cold light touch of numbness spreads between your throat and heart.
In the past, most of the cool powders, including the cool powder in northern Sichuan, were like Xie Tianlu carrying their burdens and walking the streets.
On the burden is a bucket of clear cold water, and the other is a semi-finished cold powder and ingredients. Customers pass by from all directions and then, like a mother, can't help but stop and serve a bowl.
In the summer heat, the road is long, the copper in the boss's hand swirls on the white cool powder a few times, asking: How spicy?
Then set the side dishes according to your taste, sprinkle with spices, pour red oil, and a bowl of brightly colored and fragrant Northern Sichuan cold powder will be handed to you...
Whether it is Du Fu tasting the Tang Dynasty's "cold tao of locust leaves", or Meng Yuanlao's account of the "fine rope cold powder" and "cold tao" of the early Song Dynasty, cold powder is always a lovely food in summer. From the current production process of various cold powders, in fact, it can be vaguely seen that the cold powder in the Tang and Song Dynasties was also about the same, and the final seasoning was completed according to the customer's requirements on the spot.
Speaking of which, Chuanbei cold powder is also more like the famous "locust leaf cold tao" than the cold powder such as roasted fairy grass and ice powder. Because they use chopsticks instead of spoons! I sucked the crystal cool powder into my mouth and vaguely saw the head of my chopsticks through the cool powder. In a trance, it seemed to pass through the cool powder, and it was looking at du Fu, a thousand years ago.
Du Fu, who had been thinking about politics and patriotism all his life, thought of the king who was far away in the imperial capital at that moment, and I was born in the prosperous China, and I only had in my heart: I can still have another bowl of powder.
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