It's just the delicious stinky dried tofu

Stinky dried tofu is not only a dish, but also a food for leisure. This combination of functions and identity also makes stinky dried tofu a little different.

　　Among the trees in the field, the most eye-catching and heart-stirring is the ginkgo biloba. The golden ginkgo leaves of the tree are like billions of golden butterflies or stopping branches, or dancing in the air, and like countless fragments of sunlight or paved on the ground, or whispering with the wind. Among the dishes of Yuedi, compared with the ginkgo biloba leaves, I think it can only be the stinky tofu in the stinky family.

　　Stinky dried tofu and ginkgo biloba leaves are golden in color, similar in shape and size, and more importantly, ginkgo leaves follow the wind and waves, and stinky dried tofu is now spread all over the country. Stinky dried tofu is also more fragrant inside the wall and outside the red wall, which is unparalleled in the dishes of Yuedi. When you think about it, an important reason why dried stinky tofu can monopolize this is that it is both a dish and a leisure food. And to a large extent, the reputation of stinky tofu dry snack food is far louder and bigger than the dish. The function and identity of this food and dish also makes stinky dried tofu a little different, and the topic of alternative has always been a little interesting.

　　My hometown, Songxia Town on the shore of Hangzhou Bay in Yuedi, is recognized as the mother of the stinky dried tofu in Yuedi. First, there are certificates of inheritance issued by intangible cultural heritage organizations; second, more than ten years ago, one of my compatriots founded a stinky dried tofu production company to provide recipes and raw materials, and rushed to the word "Songxia", and at most there were more than 1,000 franchise stores.

　　Anyone who has eaten dried stinky tofu knows its biggest feature, in addition to the fragrant is crisp and tender. Incense is fresh bean blanks fermented in the mold brine after high temperature frying condensed fat aroma, mildew aroma, cooked incense, crisp is the fried can of the billet wrapped in oil hot and scorched hot crisp, crunchy, burnt, tender is milky white heart in the crisp hot billet wrapped in the crispy hot billet wrapped in the tender, sticky, smooth and tender. Although the stinky dried tofu in various places has its own advantages, but if you want to come to an authentic or on-the-counter stinky dried tofu, these three should be the criteria for judging, in short, "crispy outside and tender inside" is the basic bottom line.

　　Fragrant, crisp, tender are all adjectives that seem to make people feel a little uncomfortable. But don't worry, in the production process of stinky dried tofu, whether it is soybeans, water quality, mildew brine, or fermentation, frying, you can find the corresponding verb or noun.

　　Stinky tofu dry main raw material soybeans, generally speaking, where firm, full can be, but it is best to cook in June "June white", high fat content is also fragrant. And the water quality is exquisite, where the production of bean blanks and soy products, water can only use river water, lake water and other types of soft water, living water, such as metal elements of well water and other hard water and mineral water, pure water is absolutely not used. Stinky tofu dry focus is a stinky word, so "stinky" is key. Where does "stink" come from? It is the marinade of mold brine - the marinade of moldy amaranth stems. Like moldy dried vegetables, moldy amaranth stalks are also essential for the people of Yuedi to live at home, and the by-product of moldy amaranth stems is the secret of the moldy and smelly dishes of the Vietnamese mold and smelly.

　　How does it stink? Does the "stink" have to be authentic? Does the "stink" have to be in place? In fact, it is all on the mold halogen. The mold brine of the authentic soaked bean blank must be the old brine for winter. The new brine that has just emerged, the marinade is turbid and viscous, not to mention, the grassy smell of the amaranth stem is still there, and more importantly, the fermentation is on the fire, and the mold brine is too dry and overbearing, which is a kind of corrosion and damage to the bean blanks immersed in the brine. And the winter of the old brine, saved enough of the beauty of fermentation, everything precipitated, everything is also introverted, the almost transparent yellow chengcheng mold halogen, color, fragrance, taste are complete, the immersion of the bean blank is more considerate, moist silent maintenance and reshaping.

　　For those who are not good at this mouth, this "smell" is mostly an unacceptable odor, and the smell of strange food that covers the nose; and for the people of Yuedi, this "smell" is clearly the good fragrance of the mouthpiece, and the delicacy that is eager to be sought. Stinky dried tofu with the stinky crown of the gimmick, incense from the stinky magic, not only reflects the wisdom of the folk, may also be one of the current stinky dried tofu throughout the north and south of the river.

　　In fact, in addition to soybean blanks and mold brine, there is another urgent link that cannot be ignored, that is, frying. This is not only the "last kilometer" of the stinky dried tofu from raw to cooked, but also the final result of the door. The traditional stinky tofu is dried, when fried, the fire is a fierce fire, and the oil must be heavy, fragrant and thick flower oil (cottonseed oil). A stinky dried tofu with golden color, thick oil, crispy outside and tender inside, destined to be the product of the soup and the rebirth of nirvana in boiling flower oil. If replaced by vegetable oil and salad oil, the color is dull, the aroma is thin, and the crispy outside and tender inside are even more discounted.

　　Just like eating crab when artemisia is full of puffer fish and chrysanthemum yellow, each type of food or dish has an opportunity and timing. As a snack, the stinky dried tofu is best eaten in winter.

　　In winter, in the bitter northwest wind, in the south-facing corner, the sun shines brightly. On a pair of wooden picks, the firewood of the cylinder stove rolls the boiling oil in the iron pot to the ground, and the pieces of bean blanks the size of matchboxes are put into the boiling oil, and the sound of snorting and clicking. The bean blanks turn from white to yellow and soon become golden. At this time, I can't care about the hot hand, pick up a piece of stinky dried tofu that has just come out of the pot, dip a red spicy paste, and greedily bite it, the hot incense is intertwined, the oil is spicy, the crisp and tender wrapping and stimulation are just like swallowing a hot fresh air, and it is like swallowing a mouthful of warm baking sunshine. The first bite has not yet returned to god, followed by the second, third... So the cycle repeats, gobbles up, and the cool stomach warms up, the stiff muscles are loosened, the contracted muscles are relaxed, and even every pore oozes fine sweat flowers, if you burp or breathe a long breath, that happiness, that comfort, that satisfaction, is it words that can be described? (Chen Rongli)