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Mara's column: Half a recipe, like a folk rap suite

Mara's column: Half a recipe, like a folk rap suite

In a corner of the bookshelf at home, there has been half a yellowed "Sichuan Recipe", internal information, no copyright page, no publishing house.

According to today's parlance, this may be an illegal publication, even if it comes from a well-known authentic: the Sichuan Vegetable and Aquatic Food Service Company's old, middle-aged and young three-group, compiled and printed in September 1974, launched in July 1977.

The cover design is elegant and generous: white characters on a red background, a book title with a seal, a vegetable flower pattern in the shape of a ruyi and a cloud on the top and bottom, and a two-sided continuous flower pattern at the bottom.

The back cover is gone, and the inner pages are mostly mutilated, like the square puff pastry pot helmet (a mille-feuille shortbread baked in a street stove) in the north and south of Sichuan, which will fall off the slag when touched.

Mara's column: Half a recipe, like a folk rap suite

△ Although it is rotten, you can still see that the cover design is elegant and generous.

The cover and inner page were stained with soy sauce and vinegar, and I remembered that it was still a souvenir left by Yan'er's new marriage many years ago, a new husband, a spoon in one hand, a sheet in the other, and a crime in the kitchen.

This is half a very folk book. The dishes are arranged like a folk song sung by a blind man. The authors are generations of clever wives and masters with ingenious minds and skills, and of course, some delicious dogs or gluttonous worms. They are masters of art, because cooking itself is a kind of performance art, and recipes are the implementation of this art. No one has ever jumped out to compete for the right to sign a certain dish, so these masters have reached the realm of escaping or not being nameless. In fact, a dish has been handed down as a result of countless clever hands and waiters, and the recipe that records it has become a real folk literature.

Mara's column: Half a recipe, like a folk rap suite

△ Compilation and printing instructions

This is also half a very profound book. The philosophical content of life is not inferior to half of the Analects or Zarathustra.

The first is a pleasant collaboration: each dish is the best combination of animals, plants, minerals, fire, utensils and crafts. For example, all Sichuan recipes are the first kind of pot meat, this classic dish that even the most stupid daughter-in-law in Sichuan and Chongqing can practice is the result of a happy cooperation between two knives of pork leg meat, green garlic seedlings, Pixian bean identification, sweet red soy sauce, Sichuan salt, sweet sauce, lard, medium fire, skillful hands, and happy cooperation.

Then there is the sense of proportion: each dish is very harsh on the temperature and heat of the oil. Some dishes, the oil should be burned to 50% hot, and some should be 80% hot. Some meats need to be over high heat, and some only need to be medium or low. Fry the three-line meat until the oil is the most fragrant, and fry the garlic seedlings until they are broken. These over-the-top pursuits embody a sense of proportion of mature wisdom: acting properly and tasting the best; in too much haste, the salt pot is often overturned and the pot is pasted, and the meat is not yet cooked.

This is a half-book of rather modern American texts. The author's narrative language is calm, clean, and objective, and without thinking, he has reached the height of "escaping individuality and escaping emotion" advertised by Eliot; the writing style is stuck to the "zero degree of writing", and there is no "language carnival" that is confused. Some of these passages also imply the lingering incense of the Six Dynasties.

Mara's column: Half a recipe, like a folk rap suite

△ Back to the pot meat sit firmly in the front row of the catalog

Dishes such as: back to the pot meat. The color and flavor are excellent, accompanied by green garlic seedlings stir-fried, red and green contrast, salty with sweet, slightly spicy, strong and fragrant taste. Another example is osmanthus lamb: this dish is tender, fresh, yellow, and eggs are scrambled like osmanthus flowers.

Terms such as: inch knots, hot pot, broken raw, ginger rice, horse ear shallots, knife edge peppercorns, broth, bright oil, lamp nest, two knives and one broken. They are all combinations of Chinese characters that have been refined, such as copper peas under the pot that are loud, slippery and jumping.

The ancients often nagged with their hands and feet, "Half of the Analects rule the world", and now I want to say "half of the "Recipes" rule the world". Lao Tzu said earlier, "If you rule a big country, you should cook small food", which is obviously similar to what my hero saw. If your friends are tired of reading all the books in the world, they may wish to read "Recipes" and read them like I do.

Author: Mara

Editor| Xie Bing guo juan

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