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"Cups, Plates and Bowls Overflowing Poetry: Food in Song Dynasty Poetry"
The poem is far away, and the poem is also in the kitchen
Spring plate, the first feast of the New Year of the Song Dynasty, is very famous, and the name sounds very elegant.
What exactly is the spring plate? The narrow sense of "spring plate" is a round cake in the shape of a plate with noodles, on which lettuce, spring cake, etc., are placed to indicate spring and blessing. In the early years, the spring plate was called Wuxin Pan, and according to the "Records of the Jingchu Years", the first day of the first lunar month, as described in Jiang Kui's "Partridge Heaven": "Cypress green pepper red everything is new." "Men, women and children are dressed in formal costumes to worship, and after the New Year's greetings in turn, they enter pepper and cypress wine to their ancestors and the elders of the family one by one, and everyone drinks peach soup together, drinking Tusu wine in the order from young to old, and then eating maltose and eating five-spice plates. The contents of the Five Spice Plates, according to Taoism, are garlic, garlic, leeks, brassica and coriander. Later, the use of "pepper plate" and "green silk leek" referred to "five-spice plate", and the day of eating five-spice plate was moved to Lichun. By the Song Dynasty, the spring plate was already a meat and vegetarian dish, a delicate and meticulous fresh dish, and the best partner spring cake. Liu Kezhuang's "Seven Songs of Lichun" has a verse: "The unique spleen god is unharmed, and the cake is like a sieve of large vegetables like silk." "It's funny to say that I'm not as good as ever, I can't drink as much, and my appetite is still very good." He depicts spring cakes as large as sieves, while lettuce is cut as thin as silk. The lettuce on the spring plate must be a seasonal vegetable, "vegetable silk raw leaf falling carving plate" (strong as "Li Chun Two Songs"), and always cut very thinly, "vegetable fine cluster flowers should be pancakes" (Lu You "Li Chun"). Therefore, these dishes are often called silk vegetables: "Silk vegetables fall on the plate with the jade hand, and the skeleton flowers are draped to overcome the golden warp" (as strong as "Li Chun").
Fang Yue's "Spring Disk" poem Cloud:
Pine ice jade of Lyceum root, artemisia sprouts are a little bit cold green.
The frost whip line is softer than crisp, and the snow tree raw nails are fatter than the meat.
With me the same taste of silk spicy, I know that I am long poor leek ripe.
More steamed porpoise embossed layers, slightly grits into golden millet millet.
Green and red food reflects plum willow, and purple jade invites drunken pine bamboo.
Qing will be crispy rolled moon ming, chew out the palace merchant with Shifu.
The spring plate has jade-colored radish, turquoise artemisia sprouts, crisp and tender, rich in taste; red cabbage and leeks, fragrant and spicy; and even steamed pork cut into thin slices, after stirring together, the spring plate has red and green, and golden stars. Roll up these dishes with thin and crisp spring cakes, bite them down, and chew them out to sound like music and poetry.
The seasonal vegetable varieties of the Song Dynasty Spring Plate include traditional leeks, "Hu Tong Zhai Leeks, and Bing Xian Recommended Spring Plates" (Chen Yunping's "Red Forest Near, Shou Ci Man Lu Hua"), "Cuibai Red Pepper, Finely Cut Green Silk Leeks" (Li Tingrui's "Butterfly Love Flowers, New Year's Day"),leeks always lead the starring role, "gradually feel the east wind material is steep and cold, Artemisia annua yellow leeks try the spring plate" (Su Shi", "Send Fan Deru"). Most of the spring plates are piled up with indigo buds, "Tateshina ThinNing Armor Cluster Spring Plate" (Mei Yaochen's "Wang Ledao Tai Cheng Li Spring Early Dynasty"), "Snow Foam Milk Flower Floating Noonday Cup, Tateshina Artemisia Shoots Try Spring Plate." The taste of the world is Qinghuan" (Su Shi, "Huanxi Sha"). There are also spring plates made of cabbage, "The first letter of the east wind into the mining banner, self-picked snow and spring plates" (Fang Yue's "Li Chun"). In short, "Tateshina sprouts and vegetables are clustered green and red" (Lu You", "Seven Days Before The Spring Festival Smells a Pre-made Spring Plate Inviter Play"), leeks, radishes, spring shoots, artemisia annua, cress, cabbage, etc., green, yellow, white, red, a cluster of fresh colors, a crisp and fresh taste, a sincere and thick expectation.
Mei Yaochen has a poem, the title of the poem is very long: "Yu Zhi's relatives have a woman who can order puff pastry for poetry and flowers, fruits, linfeng and other things are all wonderful, his family holds that the year of the xin pan to help Yu widowed children's clothes are not removed because of the transfer of the general judgment there are poems to see the answer to the pen remuneration", which means that there is a skillful woman in my own family who will make poems with crisp on the spring plate, and will also make flowers, fruits, unicorns, phoenix-shaped butter snails (equivalent to the shape on the cream cake now), which is very exquisite. But my wife died, and my children were serving filial piety and could not celebrate the Spring Festival, so I forwarded the beautiful spring plate sent by my relatives to Tongju, who wrote a poem as a thank you after accepting it, so I wrote the following poem as a reward. Mei Yaochen's original poem is as follows:
The cut bamboo is wrapped in gold is larger than the palm, and the red wisps of turtle pattern are picked into a net.
Qiong Crispy pointed out the Exploring Spring Poem, and the jade carved small book title was in Mu.
Famous flowers and fruits can be dazzling, and the auspicious beasts and rare birds are not widespread.
It is not enough for the male children to fall, and the female workers can be rewarded.
Judging from Mei Yaochen's poems, this spring plate is like a beautiful work of art.
Spring cakes are thinly baked dough cakes. "Jade plate lettuce is messed with green silk, and the three-year-old public eats spring cakes" (Zhang Fu," "Spring Presents Han Zhang"). Eating spring plates is eating lettuce and spring cakes, which is the custom of the calendar year. In the spring season, "choosing vegetables and turning over cakes is cruel, and the children are noisy and short-term dreams" (Fan Chengda's "On the Pillow of Lichun"). Before dawn, the family chooses dishes to make cakes, the children are noisy, and the atmosphere of the festival is strong. "Children and women know how to turn over the cake, oh hand to take a cup" (Fan Chengda's "Li Chun Heavy Snow, Invite Relatives and Friends to Share spring plates, sit on the work"), on the one hand, the women deftly bake cakes in the pot, and on the other hand, the men drink with hot air, while steaming, laughing and talking. "Xiaoyuan curtain rolls, spring plate cake bait incense" (Liu Ziyi," (次韵張守立春). As soon as dawn opens, the curtain is drawn, and the fragrance of the cake comes to the face. For this Chinese New Year meal, preparations are often advanced, starting in the following month:
This winter there is less frost and snow, and the waxing moon is tired of heavy fur.
Gradually move the garden to prosper, and suddenly wide salary charcoal worries.
The mountain spring vein is live, and the willow branches of the village are soft.
Spring cakes are in trouble, and I can ask for vegetables on a day. (Lu You "Wax Moon")
A warm winter brings a lot of joy to the poet. The weather is not so cold, even in the waxing moon, you don't have to wear a thick fur coat. If it's not so cold, you can go to the woods to cut down the trees, and then you don't have to worry about not burning enough firewood. Spring water flows by the hillside, and wicker gently sways on the street in the village. Most importantly, the vegetables grow a lot and good in the warm winter, and when eating the spring plate, there are many varieties of spring cakes that can be rolled, and they can be prepared on the same day!
"Plate vegetables and cups of wine, strong teaching people to lead." Also slightly drunk, with some spring excitement" (Chen's "Selling Flowers, Li Chun Wine Side"). When you drink spring cakes and vegetables, drink spring wine, and drink a little drunk, the original depression is swept away. If the spring plate can be eaten with the family, "this year's spring plate begins to live at home, but also better than the end of the world" (Liu Kezhuang's "Li Chun Two Songs"), the happiness of the reunion makes the feast more fresh and fragrant.
The New Year meal can be said to be a cold meal, if it is not prepared by yourself, not eaten with the family, this cold meal is really solid. Yang Wanli's "Sending Spring Plate in the County" poem Yun:
Bread is like cocoon paper, and dishes can be sewn if they are inferior.
Leek buds roll yellow lettuce shu purple, reed shaved cold teeth.
Wosha pressed jade to cut red incense, and deployed five treasures to visit the poetry intestines.
The wildlings did not see the new calendar day, and suddenly the spring plate was still too resting.
What is the Fifty Years of the New Year? Frost has to look in the mirror a lot.
Qu Sheng was angry and confused, and made spring drunkenness for the spring plate.
Spring cakes are thin, like silkworm paper for silkworm breeding; lettuce is cut very thinly, and the amount is not enough, barely enough to plug the teeth; leeks, buds, lettuce, yellow yellow, purple purple, green green, look very beautiful; but the radish is like ice cut down, it can almost freeze the teeth. Such a spring plate is colorful, and such five kinds of spring vegetables are related to poetry. I have been outside the imperial court, did not see the new almanac in time, did not know the specific date, and suddenly got the spring plate sent, and could not help but sigh. After the New Year, I will be fifty years old, and when I am old, I see in the mirror that I have added a lot of gray hair. alas! Even the sake lees have to blame this person for being too ignorant, just take this spring plate, make a cup for the spring! After a new year, I am one year older and take another step towards old age! Lu You was much more optimistic and open-minded, and he said: "Spring plate spring wine is good every year, try on the silver flag to sentence drunk." This year old everyone Tim, not the world is partial to my old age. ("Magnolia Flower • Li Chun Ri Zuo") Spring Plate Spring Wine is mellow and intoxicating every year, and the spring day is lit, and the hat on the head is victorious, indicating that all beings in the world are one year older today, and I am by no means the only one who is old. Drink a lot and get drunk in the slanting sun!
The spring plate is colorful, and the taste of the spring plate is mixed, and it is tasted and cherished.
Excerpt from "Cups, Plates, and Bowls Overflowing Poetry: Food in Song Dynasty Poetry"
By Han Ximing
Beijing United Publishing Company Phoenix One Force
Poetic, poetic,
Ordinary meals can also be grand and warm,
It can also be unforgettable
Sima Guang, Ouyang Xiu, Wang Anshi, Mei Yaochen, Su Shi, Lu You, Yang Wanli... Most of them recorded their most ordinary meals in poetry. They transformed the dilemma of hunger and cold into a poetic wonderland with beautiful rice and coriander and temperature.
Chinese food culture has a long history and is broad and profound.
The third peak of food culture occurred in the Song Dynasty, and the peak of poetry development in literary history was also in the Song Dynasty.
The famous poets Su Shi, Huang Tingjian, Ouyang Xiu, Lu You, Mei Yaochen, Yang Wanli, etc., not only made outstanding contributions to the development of Poetry in the Song Dynasty, but also used poetry to depict and record the development of food culture in the Song Dynasty.
This book records 48 dietary varieties of the Song Dynasty, cites more than 2,000 poems by more than 600 poets for explanation and analysis, accompanied by relevant and interesting stories, to guide readers to enjoy the poetic connotation of Song Dynasty food, so that readers can appreciate the beauty of Song Dynasty food while reading Song Dynasty food poetry.
About the Author
Han Ximing, born in 1958, is a native of Wujin, Jiangsu Province, a professor of ancient literature, a member of the Jiangsu Writers Association, and a columnist for several newspapers and periodicals. He has been engaged in the teaching and research of ancient literature and Chinese folklore for more than 30 years. He has published a number of works such as "Notes on Reading Wei Caotang" (full annotation and full translation).
Synopsis
Chinese food culture has a long history and is broad and profound, and the third peak period of food culture appeared in the Song Dynasty. Song Dynasty poetry not only occupies an important position in the history of Chinese literature, but also depicts and records the development of Food Culture in the Song Dynasty. This book combines food culture with poetry appreciation, explains and analyzes the food varieties of the Song Dynasty with poems, and intersperses interesting stories to guide readers to discover the poetic connotations in the song dynasty diet.
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