At eight o'clock in the morning, take 7535 from Jiayuguan Station, which is a green car without a letter code, arriving in Dunhuang in the afternoon, the whole journey is more than six hours, and the ticket is only 22.5 yuan.
Outside the car window is the vast Gobi Desert, and the sunlight sprinkled on the Gobi Desert looks particularly pale. The temperature in the carriage was getting lower and lower, wrapped in the only sweater curled up, the mobile phone signal was intermittent, and the whole time looked at the monotonous Gobi Desert scenery in a daze.
When leaving Dunhuang Station, warm sunlight greeted him, dispelling the bitter cold outside Jiayu Pass.
Dunhuang buses are very casual, can not see the stop sign, do not show the number of trains. You ask the driver where to drive, and the driver goes. This train goes to the train station, then the next trip to Mingsha Mountain, it is all negotiable.
Newcomers, looking at the bus in Dunhuang, can't help but mutter: There is not even a stop sign, is this really a regular bus? This is really true, Dunhuang City is actually not big, parked near the shabar market green bus, there are to the direction of Mingshashan, to the Mogao Grottoes digital display center, to the railway station, to the airport.... Get to almost everywhere you might need to go.
I came to a bus and told the driver that I was going to the sandbar market, and the driver hung a sign with the word "sandbank market" on the front of the car. If a passenger can't figure out the route, the driver enthusiastically points the way and carefully helps calculate the itinerary. After chatting happily, the driver suddenly stuffed a few large dates into us, and proudly said in an irresistible tone: "Taste, taste, our dates are sweet." ”
I got off the bus at the Shazhou Market and walked on the streets of Dunhuang, where the road is relatively spacious, there are not many cars, there are not many people, and there is a tranquility.
After experiencing the bitter cold outside Jiayu Pass, I was in the streets of Dunhuang at this moment, and I was very comfortable and comfortable, and even my steps unconsciously slowed down to better feel the breath and pulse of the city. It seems that when the time came to Dunhuang, the pace also slowed down.
The streets are full of donkey meat yellow noodle restaurants, a bowl of donkey meat yellow noodles, a cup of apricot skin water, basically standard.
In Dunhuang, it is said that there are vivid scenes of making yellow faces on the murals of Cave 156 (Song) of Mogao Grottoes. It is said that Dunhuang has a century-old shop that has been passed down for five generations, Shunzhang Yellow Noodle Restaurant, which was founded at the end of the Qing Dynasty. I didn't deliberately look for a century-old shop, dragging my suitcase into a fairly bright restaurant.
The yellow of the yellow noodles is due to the fact that a desert alkaline plant is placed in the noodles, so the cooked noodles are slightly yellow. Served with thickly cut donkey meat in sauce, the toppings are a large spoonful of minced shiitake mushrooms and water tofu.
Apricot peel water is made from the skin of Li Guang, which is native to Dunhuang. Sweet and sour, similar to sour plum soup, it is not the same when you taste it carefully. Imagine a cup of apricot peel water in the hot sun to quench the heat and thirst.
The first time I drank apricot peel water was in Zhangye, and I saw that the place of origin was written: Dunhuang. After arriving in Dunhuang, the yellow figure of apricot peel water can be seen everywhere in the street shops. It is not too much to say that apricot peel water is Dunhuang's signature drink. That night, I bought four bags of apricot peel water, and the next day I went to the Gobi Highway in Yangguan and Yumenguan, and there was apricot peel water as a companion, which was really good.
September 26, 2017
Dunhuang Sandbar Market