Prematurely, it is always the most important thing for me wuhan people to eat three meals a day. Comparing breakfast to a festival-like solemnity, there is only the river city of white clouds and yellow cranes.
Old Cai Linji's hot dry noodles that are called a fragrant, hand-pickled rose carrot diced or diced kohlrabi, a spoonful of pure white sesame sauce for the soul, plus a small ground sesame oil, according to the 6 two to 4 two mix of sauce, so that this bowl of alkali water hot dry noodles is particularly charming.
Under the auspices of "strongman" Zhang Bin, the bean skin king Laotongcheng Restaurant was famous in China, attracting many stars and foreign friends to punch cards. At the end of the 1980s, Laotongcheng Restaurant entered its heyday, its first floor "people take food as the sky" snack restaurant, in addition to supplying three fresh bean skin series varieties, also supply oil piers, oil aroma, red date porridge, hedgehog buns, Qingshui rice dumplings, copper pot small round rice wine, etc., and in addition to snacks, Laotongcheng also cooks more than 300 kinds of famous dishes in Hubei and various places, which is a veritable large restaurant in Wuhan (according to the Light Industry Publishing House "Laotongcheng Restaurant").
Nowadays, everything has become a thing of the past, the three towns of the people's livelihood sweets restaurant Shengli Street main store and Jiqing Street four seasons outside, so that the "large-scale variety of full" premature delicious still exists, but wuchang? There can't always be only one master Zhao who punches in the clock from a foreigner, right?
On the weekend, I punched in the Four Seasons Meidong Lake Forte store and found that the flagship store of the chinese time-honored Four Seasons Beauty in Wuchang had become Wuchang's premature handle. Shrimp, tomato, fresh meat and shiitake mushroom four-flavor soup bun, retro version of three fresh bean skin, hot dry noodles for diced kohlrabi, wontons, old noodle fried buns, beef powder, chicken crown dumplings, paste rice wine, sugar-free soy milk, sour plum soup, almost everything is brilliant without stepping on the thunder.
Soup bun is the best of the four seasons of beauty, but the soup bun is delicious but difficult to wait, in the creation of the four seasons of the East Lake Forte store, the person in charge of knife knife and the main person piece advocates to shape it as the most complete and elegant place in Wuchang early, in addition to the soup bun, they are strong on the bean skin, after looking for a large number of old Tong City information, the piece found several problems in today's bean skin market, and strive to solve.
The first is the abuse of the "Bean Skin King". When we think of the Bean Skin King, the first thing that comes to mind is Gao Jin'an. In fact, as a brand, the bean skin king specifically refers to the old Tongcheng restaurant, and the launch of the bean skin is inseparable from the founder of the old Tongcheng, Zeng Houcheng. With the support of Zeng Houcheng, Gao Jin'an was dug up by high salaries to Lao Tongcheng, and then formed a complete set of bean skin production processes.
In 1947, Mr. Zeng spent 1500 yuan of ocean to import four-story neon signs from Chicago, USA, and advertised "Bean Skin King" in major newspapers and periodicals. Adopt marketing policies such as buying newspapers and sending beanskins, or buying bean skins to send newspapers.
At that time, Laotongcheng bean skin was all the rage, and on the flight from Hankou to Taiwan, there were souvenirs of Laotongcheng bean skin. Therefore, Jin Yong's "Smiling Proud of the Jianghu" and Gu Long's "White Jade Tiger" all have the appearance of old tong into bean skins, which is inseparable from the advertising influence at that time.
In the early 1960s, due to disasters, the bean skin was once in decline. Teacher He Zuohuan wrote that the recipes hanging out of the restaurant every day are "vegetarian stew" and "vegetarian three silks", without meat dishes, the staple food is the same as the residents' canteen, there are one or two counts one or two in fact... As a result, after the "disaster", there was a long, long "yuxu": outside the famous shops such as Laotongcheng, the rest of the places where bean skins should be made quietly expanded the glutinous rice and shrunk the meat plate, and the glutinous rice that was originally "partitioned" began to be connected into one piece, completing the unification of the territory in the "three fresh bean skins" plate. Since then, people have been satisfied to be able to eat a few delicious diced meat in the "three fresh bean skins". What's more than diced meat? Shrimp? No kidding...
An 80-year-old man who lives in Jiqing Street added, "At that time, there was a practice of cutting corners to save grain, which is still unknown to operators: when making bean skins, two skins were made, and the first one was placed next to it, and the glutinous rice condiment was applied on the latter sheet, and then the first skin was covered, and then cut through it and turned over. In order to save grain in times of difficulty, only one skin is made, and the practice of one skin has been passed down to this day, and today's simple work is not to save food, but to reduce costs. ”
After the impact of the times, the three fresh bean skins are once again on the right track. After gao jin'an, the "king of bean skins", the glory of Laotong City continued, and achieved a continuous succession, inherited by the "second king of bean skins" Zeng Yanling, "little king of bean skins" Zhang Xiangzhao and "mimi king" Zhou Caibin.
What is particularly commendable is that in 1958, as the chef of Kang Bean Peel and his grandfather, the "Second King of Bean Skin" Zeng Yanling played an important role in the process of Laotong City entering the glory again. In 1988, in the second Cooking Grand Prix, Sanxian Bean Peel won the third place. In 1989, Zeng Yanling, as a famous chef in Hubei, went to Tianjin to participate in the "Golden Tripod Award" competition for high-quality products held by the Ministry of Commerce, performed and produced three fresh bean skins, and won back the "Golden Tripod Award".
In the 90s of last century, after the collapse of the Bean Skin King of Laotong City, many employees of Lao Tong City or people who took the road of the rivers and lakes opened a small shop and named themselves "Bean Skin King", which was really detrimental to this title.
Secondly, after the collapse of Laotong City, the production process of bean skin is declining, and many merchants are destroying bean skin in order to control costs. On the basis of several years of experiments, the standard of the bean skin was strictly controlled.
In the book "Laotongcheng Restaurant", the "second king of bean skin" Zeng Yanling believed that the production of laotongcheng bean skin had several key points: First, the selection of materials is fine, the mung beans used, the grain is large and full, the rice is the best product of hubei unique indica rice, fresh eggs are the eggs produced by the old hens of Hubei Huangxiao, and the diced brine pork, brine strips, and char siu meat must be fresh and lean. The oil used is refined oil and stone ground sesame oil; second, the production is exquisite, and it must go through a variety of process procedures such as grinding, steaming and frying glutinous rice, stalls, kang system; third, the heat is properly grasped, and the skin must be spread with a concave round special pot and mussel shell. In this way, the pulp is thin, the skin is heavy butter, soft and refreshing, and the characteristics of crisp and fragrant. The preparation of the book is suspected of being a textbook. Tablets believe that, in simple terms, it means that the filling should be enough, the diced meat should be sufficient; the egg should be thick enough, the skin should be crispy enough; the glutinous rice should be sticky enough, it should be uniform, and there should be no crushed glutinous.
Of course, the most important thing is that the bean skin cannot have squeezed dried vegetables. Tablets of evidence believe that now, many bean skin shops in Wuhan have squeezed dried vegetables, which is a big mistake. Since its inception in 1929, The ingredient list is filled with diced bamboo shoots, diced meat and diced shiitake mushrooms. At that time, the bamboo shoots were called magnolia tablets. Later, I thought it was not good enough, and I also added ten flavor fillings such as heart, mouth strips, pork belly, green beans, chicken breast, char siu, shrimp, etc., that is, assorted bean skin. After the 1950s, the pattern of bean skins decreased, and there was less complicated filling, and finally fixed into egg light bean skin, three fresh bean skin, beef bean skin, double soybean skin and shrimp bean skin. However, there is also no squeezed dried vegetables. Because of the original conditions, it is not as good as it is now, and there is no refrigerator to keep fresh. As long as there is a stem, the cheek will break. Therefore, squeezing dried vegetables is unconventional. At the same time, the principle of Chinese food is, "Taste makes it out, tasteless makes it in." "Why use dried seeds is to reduce meat and reduce costs." The dried bean skin is the low-grade version of the original bean skin. No meat, less meat, where does the flavor of dried seeds come from?
In the end, he launched a retro version of the three fresh bean skins, diced meat shoots clove mushrooms and pork belly green beans filling, coupled with egg-fragrant skin, soft and hard glutinous rice, once will continue to save costs and reduce the quality of the bean skin, pull back to the high quality of good taste.
It is precisely because of the persistence of the tablets, nowadays, the four seasons of Meidong Lake Forte can sell more than 350 parts a day, a pot of bean skin out of about 8 parts, so that the bean skin to maintain the best taste, and there are always people waiting in line for the bean skin, but also promote the bean skin to maintain a high level. "It has to be done non-stop, the pot is always burning, the skin will taste better, it's a conscience cycle." Tablets say.
Recently, the Four Seasons Meidong Lake Forte store once again experimented with beef powder, soup base mellow bone broth boiled, beef is all beef tendon meat, to the thick eight pieces, the powder is Jiangxi powder, smooth and tough, of course, the price is not cheap, 25 yuan a bowl, can be called one of the most expensive beef powder in Wuhan. But the taste and raw materials really have nothing to say, and the popularity in the East Lake Forte is very high. "Before I was worried that the beef powder was not good enough, I tried N times, used the good ingredients on the market, the tip of the tongue is already fast to the point of numbness, I did not expect to try these days, the effect is very good." One female customer was even very excited, 'The price is expensive, but it is really delicious!' I hope you can keep it going'..."
Today, when more and more diners complain that they can't eat delicious too early, some people always insist on making every dish day after day. And such persistence will always be rewarded, because the food made with heart is always full of pulse warmth, and at the moment of entrance, people's mouths cannot deceive themselves.
Author: Shu Huai
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