Red Star News Network (reporter Li Huiying) reported on January 19 that "China has a great etiquette so it is called xia, and the beauty of the dress is called hua." As one of the most core symbols of Chinese civilization, the costume culture embodies the cultural style of the Chinese nation, which not only shows the beauty of the dazzling costumes, but also carries the heavy connotation of the Chinese national clothing and the state of liturgy. On January 25th, the Curtain opened on chengdu museum's "Yunxiang Clothing - Silk Road Costume Culture Special Exhibition", and 186 pieces/groups of exquisite cultural relics from more than 20 cultural institutions across the country will be unveiled in a stunning way, composing a brilliant Jincheng Huazhang.
A raid? Clothing, unveiling the prosperity of the Warring States silk weaving industry
China is the origin of the world's silkworm silk weaving, more than 5,000 years ago, the ancestors of the Yangtze River Basin and the Yellow River Basin have completed the exploration process from the domestication of wild silkworms to the thick weaving of silk reeling. Early silk was an important material carrier for health and death, sacrifice to the gods, and communication between heaven and earth; after the Shang Zhou, silk gradually evolved into a symbol of status, on which weaving flowers and embroidery appeared, marking the real beginning of silk art.
Warring States from Jingzhou Museum? The robe is the earliest cardigan suit found in mainland archaeology so far. It has straight sleeves, two plackets, equal width at the waist and hem, concave back collar, red-brown silk embroidered with a phoenix-like snake pattern, sleeve rim for striped brocade, collar edge is a large diamond-shaped brocade. Although there is no actual wearing function, there are still the basic characteristics of "clothing embroidery, brocade as the edge", which is enough to see the aesthetic trend and the development of brocade weaving technology at that time.
▲?Yi Warring States Jingzhou Museum
A painting that tells the prosperity of the great unification of the Qin and Han dynasties
After the Qin dynasty unified the world, it once "accepted the six kingdoms of the car and the flag to serve the emperor". Subsequently, with the improvement of the unified political system of the Han Dynasty and the improvement of social productivity, the clothing and crown system was fully implemented, forming a clothing system with Han cultural characteristics.
The deep coat of "up and down, deep body" was one of the popular costumes at that time.
Unearthed from Mawangdui, Hunan Province, the painted figurines are dressed in deep-clothed robes, with a collared right side, wide sleeves and curved hems, and the robes are painted with red and black colors, and the robe rim and cuffs are painted with red flowers on a black background, which perfectly presents us with the aesthetic characteristics of the prominent physical beauty of the Han Dynasty costumes.
▲Painted figurines Western Han Dynasty Hunan Provincial Museum
A wisp of tulle highlights the development of the silk weaving technology of the two Han Dynasties
In addition to the establishment of official silk production institutions in the two Han Dynasties, private workshop-style and family-style silk weaving production also developed by leaps and bounds. The scale of commercial production of silk fabrics has increased by leaps and bounds, not only the output has increased, but also the variety has become increasingly diverse.
The Western Han Dynasty yellow-brown pair of bird diamond pattern "cloud embroidery" in this exhibition, with qi as the embroidery ground, weaving and embroidery patterns shine together, geometric patterns, plant patterns, animal patterns alternately distributed, birds, clouds and Seocho flowers are continuously fastened, vermilion, light brown red, olive green three-color silk thread embroidered peach blossom pattern and cloud pattern, is for "cloud embroidery", meaning "phoenix bird riding on the clouds", the picture is vivid, luxurious and abnormal.
▲ Yellow-brown pair of bird diamond pattern Qidi "cloud embroidery" Western Han Province Museum
At the same time, the gold and silver flame pattern yarn is the earliest three-plate overprinted silk fabric seen so far. After the gold and silver are ground into powder, glued and blended into mud, printed on a light and transparent yarn with a bronze letterpress, the flame pattern (or Boshan pattern) is beautiful and colorful, and it can be imagined that it is used as clothing at the time, and it is bright and moving between walking and swaying.
▲Printed gold and silver flame pattern yarn Western Han Province Museum
A golden crown that witnesses the cultural fusion of the Silk Road
In the second century BC, Emperor Wudi of the Han Dynasty sent Zhang Qian on an envoy to the Western Regions, opening up a land trade route connecting the Mediterranean countries, that is, the overland "Silk Road", starting from the capital Chang'an (present-day Xi'an). Silk became one of the most important commodities exported to the world by ancient China.
During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, soldiers were disturbed and ethnic groups were integrated. Costumes from different regions and different nationalities are bustling on the Silk Road, and different civilizations use clothing as a carrier to learn from each other and exchange secrets about culture, art and technology.
Among the many dazzling ornaments on display, this jewel-encrusted gold crown from Inner Mongolia is extremely eye-catching. It is in the shape of a garland, winding leaves and flowers woven from gold leaves, gold wire and gold sheets, and the flowers are inlaid with various gemstones, gorgeous and dazzling, resembling the laurel crown in Greek mythology, witnessing the exchange and integration of northern nomads and Western culture through the grasslands.
▲Gem-encrusted gold crown ornament Han Dynasty Inner Mongolia Museum
A piece of pottery figurine that reflects the golden age of the Tang Dynasty's "Kingdom of Clothing and Crown"
The five-way miscellaneous places during the Southern and Northern Dynasties laid the foundation for the blooming of the costume culture of the Sheng Tang Dynasty. The Tang Dynasty was strong in national strength and frequent cultural exchanges between east and west, and on the basis of absorbing the technology of Central Asian weijin, its patterns were also innovated, and it had the characteristics of the costumes of the northern nomads, creating a detailed crown system.
Prosperous and beautiful, the style is unique. In the Tang Dynasty, the atmosphere was open, women's clothing was gorgeous and exquisite, and a trend of bearded clothes and men's clothing arose. The two painted grey pottery figurines in this exhibition can give us a glimpse of the scenery at that time. They comb their heads in black buns and phoenix buns, all wear cardigan underwear, tie loops on the chest, drag different colors of long skirts, and pedal their heads. The figurines should be the image of a noblewoman, with plump cheeks, fine eyebrows, rouge, red lips, dignified and generous forms, graceful and luxurious shapes, exquisite makeup, highlighting the style of the Tang Dynasty.
▲Painted gray pottery figurines Tang Qingcheng County Museum
These thousand-year-old Chinese clothes, brocade robes, and crown ornaments, carrying the shadows of their time, unfold a beautiful picture of the floating green and flowing Dan for today's people. From the domestication of silkworms more than 5,000 years ago, to the development of silk weaving technology between the two Han Dynasties; from the grand east-west exchanges opened by the Silk Road, to the glory of inclusive blooming in the prosperous Tang Dynasty... The kingdom of clothing and crowns is full of beauty. The beauty of the clothes chapter, covering the world.
This Spring Festival, "Yunxiang Clothing - Silk Road Costume Culture Special Exhibition" is waiting for the whole thing.
Walk into the Chengdu Museum together and enjoy the beauty of "Huaxia" in the beautiful costumes.