Mass Newspaper • Qilu One Point Reporter Li Jing Gao Guangchao
A frying pan, a pair of long chopsticks, 68-year-old Wang Linping is shaking the steamed buns, all kinds of fixed, steamed buns, golden and fragrant spray crispy and crispy sesame oil steamed buns out of the pot. Wang Linping said: "Su Dongpo has a "Cold Instrument Poem", 'The hand is rubbed into a jade number, and the green oil is fried to make a tender yellow depth. Night spring sleep is not heavy, squash the beauty wrapped around the gold. That's what it says, it's the buns. We have been doing Jinan Dongtian buns for more than 40 years. ”
Make buns in bomb shelters, get up early and greedy for twenty years
Wang Linping, 68 years old this year, is the founder of Jinan Dongtian Steamed Buns. Speaking of the founding of Jinan Dongtian Steamed Buns, it began in 1980, when Wang Linping was less than 30 years old. Initially, Wang Linping worked in a three-generation shop, making various breakfast pastries, baked cakes, fried buns, fritters, and also began to contact steamed buns. When Wang Linping returned to her hometown of Liaocheng Linqing, she heard the old man say that Linqing's steamed buns were provided to dignitaries and nobles in ancient times, and it was said to be an aristocratic delicacy. So she had the idea that such a good thing could not be lost. Back in Jinan, she began to concentrate on making steamed buns.
Why is it called "Dongtian"? Wang Linping said that the steamed bun has relatively high requirements for temperature and humidity, and it is afraid that the noodles will not wake up in winter, and the noodles will stick in the summer, and the air raid shelter will be warm in winter and cool in summer. But the conditions in the air raid shelter were very harsh, with rain leaking above and wind entering the doorway. Wang Linping said: "At that time, I had to get up at two o'clock in the morning, and I had to get up for an hour, wake up for an hour, and then blow it up for more than two hours, and then the big guys got up in the morning just enough to eat hot steamed buns." In order to better publicize the steamed buns, she pedaled a tricycle around the border Jinan City to sell steamed buns, and when she was really sleepy, she slept on the tricycle, and this state persisted for two or three years. Wang Linping has been making steamed buns in the air raid shelter since 1980, staying for twenty years, sleeping at night and wondering how to make the buns melt in the mouth, crisp and delicious. Wang Linping said: "Speaking of that time, it was really hard in the air raid shelter, but I didn't know why I didn't know why I was tired and full of energy, so I named it Dongtian Bunzi." ”
In 1986, the first national flavor snack competition was held in Jinan, and Wang Linping's steamed bun won the honor of "Jinan Flavor Snack". Since then, Wang Linping has strengthened her confidence in making steamed buns. Through the competition, Wang Linping also saw the masters from all over the country, and she opened the road of "learning the scriptures" everywhere. As far as Huaiyin District, as far as Xinjiang and Qinghai, Wang Linping studied everywhere, learned from her strengths and avoided her weaknesses, accumulated experience, and constantly improved her steamed buns. Wang Linping said: "I took the train alone for 4 days to see people frying steamed buns. I want to visit and learn all the places where I fried steamed buns, just to make my own buns better. ”
Every process must be perfect for the steamed buns to be delicious
To make a good bun, you have to go through the noodles, wake up the noodles, cut the strips, rub the strips, and finally the shaking buns, a total of eight processes. And noodles are not only hard work, but also technical work. Wang Linping said: "The noodles are carried by hand, and you have to carry them for an hour, until the noodles are blistered, and the steamed buns can reach the taste." "Before, when I was carrying the noodles, my hands didn't grind less blisters, and then I grew cocoons, and year after year, Wang Linping's hands were hard and rough. In order to make the steamed bun color and fragrance beautiful, she repeatedly pondered the thickness of the rubbing strips, afraid that the coarseness would not enter the taste, and the fine would be greasy. Wang Linping rubbed the steamed buns, crisp and clean, she said, "I am a more serious person, each process must be serious, the heat must be mastered, the color can be obtained, the appearance is in place, and the steamed buns are delicious."
Winter around the New Year is the busiest time of the year for Wang Linping, and making two or three hundred catties a day is not enough to sell. Working two shifts during the day and night, Wang Linping is sometimes busy until she sleeps directly in the store at night, and can sleep for 4 hours a night. Wang Linping said: "People can't buy steamed buns in the New Year, and I feel uncomfortable. "Jinan summer is hot, the air circulation in the air raid shelter is poor, sitting next to the oil pot and shaking the steamed buns, is the most difficult time for Wang Linping to stay up." She said, "At that time, I had to lean on the oil pan for 16 hours a day, and the sweat flowed down. The hot oil is jumping around, and the sesame seeds splashing on the hands is a blister." When the temperature was thirty-eight or nine degrees, Wang Linping also thought about stopping work, and even thought about giving up, but when she heard customers say that they wanted to eat steamed bread, she "clockworked" herself again.
Wang Linping returned to her hometown Linqing with steamed buns to give the old man food, and the old man said that it was not fragrant enough. In order to make more fragrant and delicious steamed buns, Wang Linping constantly improved the production process, countless failed experiences, countless insomnia nights, she did not want to give up. In 1991 she began experimenting with making steamed buns in sesame oil. How much sesame oil should be put in, when to put it, how to put it, all of which were difficult for her. Wang Linping said: "At that time, when it was fried, I tasted it myself, and the steamed buns fried in all fragrant oil were bitter, and the steamed buns fried in peanut oil were not fragrant enough." "Sometimes at night when she had a sudden inspiration, she would get up in the middle of the night to experiment." Take it back to his hometown to taste the old man, the old man said that it was more fragrant than before, and his heart was really happy at that time. Wang Linping said proudly. In 1991, Wang Linping went to Tianjin to participate in the competition, and also won the first prize for sesame oil steamed buns. By 2000, Wang Linping used half a year to repeatedly study and produce, making a "double dragon play ball", and participating in the competition in Hangzhou was a sensation.
I am afraid that the craftsmanship will be lost, and people will not be able to eat such a good thing in the future
Wang Linping began to accept apprentices from a young age, and the apprentices she taught were already uncountable, so she handed over her craft to her apprentices and helped many people start businesses and become rich. Wang Linping also tried to make steamed buns with machines, but the 200,000 machines eventually became decorations. She said: "To make delicious and authentic steamed buns, you have to be handmade, and eating steamed buns is the taste of eating." When the effort came, the taste of the steamed bun came out. I am afraid that the handmade things will be lost, and people will not be able to eat such good things in the future. ”
Among Wang Linping's many apprentices, there is a big apprentice who debuted in the C position, that is, Kang Xianwu. The 41-year-old Kang Xianwu has been learning to make bread with Wang Linping for 25 years now. Wang Linping, who is now retired, said: "Kang Xianwu has an aura when making steamed buns, and his skills are in place. The most important thing is that this child is serious, kind, and able to endure hardships, because then I dare to give it to him. ”
Kang Xianwu's hand-to-hand skills of fried steamed buns were taught by Wang Linping, and Kang Xianwu affectionately called her "Aunt Wang". Kang Xianwu told reporters while making noodles, "At the beginning, it was really hard, how to figure out the noodles, how to cut the strips, how to wrap the buns, this noodle just didn't listen to my call, but later the more I dried up, the more interesting it was." "Kang Xianwu has high technical requirements, and the control of time and the grasp of fire must be improved. Kang Xianwu spent a year learning to make steamed buns, and only in seven or eight years did he dare to say that he was able to use a piece of noodles with ease, but he still modestly said that he still could not catch up with the master. Kang Xianwu admired his master Wang Linping, he said, "She is a strong woman at work, a kind heart in life, to me, just like my mother." I also want to pass on the craft of sesame oil steamed buns."
Wang Linping said: "Now that the days are getting better and better, we must not forget the hardships of the past, and at any time we must remember the persistence of making sesame oil steamed buns in the air raid shelter." Today, Wang Linping returns to her hometown with steamed buns, and the old people say that the taste is better than the original. She said that she did not want to leave regrets, hoping to retain the taste handed down by the older generation, hoping to let the people of Jinan eat authentic sesame oil steamed buns, hoping to let everyone who came to Jinan remember this special taste.
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