Old-school grandpa
Abstract: In the sixth episode of the second season of "Flavor Life", "The Legend of the Granular Firmament", the three shrimp noodles are mentioned, so it is known as the "Hermes" in the noodles, how delicious are the three shrimp noodles?
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In the sixth episode of the second season of "Flavor Life", "The Legend of the Granular Sky", the three shrimp noodles are mentioned, so it is known as the "Hermes" in the noodles, how delicious are the three shrimp noodles?
The theme of "The Legend of the Granular Firmament" is to talk about seeds, the seeds of plants naturally needless to say, the "seeds" of animals are the first to promote caviar, caviar has always been a delicacy on the table, followed by shrimp roe, it is logical to mention three shrimp noodles. The so-called three shrimp noodles, not three kinds of shrimp, but shrimp shrimp brain and shrimp seeds, which are the top noodles in Su bang noodles, and even known as the "Hermes" in noodles. To know that there are more than five hundred kinds of toppings in Subang noodles, it is declared the Guinness World Record, and it can overwhelm the crowd in so many toppings and sit firmly in the supreme position, and the three shrimp noodles are naturally extraordinary.
First of all, the three shrimp noodles are extremely seasonal. Su Bang noodles pay attention to what to eat, to what season to eat. The shrimp seeds in the three shrimp noodles are seasonal, the shrimp breeding season is from early summer to midsummer, up to two months, only these two months will have shrimp seeds, so the three shrimp noodles will only have two months at most a year, generally after the small full festival, the lunar calendar from April to June, after these two months, it can only be next year please early.
Secondly, the most expensive place for three shrimp noodles is artificial, shrimp shrimp brain shrimp seeds are to be processed by hand, peeling shrimp is not too much trouble, but to peel out the fully formed shrimp, or to have some skills and techniques. Some shops use ice water to soak and peel shrimp, in order to make the peeled shrimp eat more smooth and tender teeth.
In contrast, shrimp brains and shrimp seeds are quite hard work. The procedure of taking shrimp seeds is very cumbersome, first rinse with water, and then rub repeatedly to let the shrimp seeds sink into the water, and then filter out the shrimp seeds. The shrimp seeds of each shrimp are only the size of small fingernails, a bowl of three shrimp noodles requires at least 20 shrimp shrimp seeds, and a pound of shrimp seeds can only make four parts of three shrimp toppings. It can be seen that the high labor and price, the "Hermès" in the face, is by no means a waste of time.
Shrimp brain and shrimp seeds are not the same, it is necessary to cook the remaining shrimp heads when peeling shrimp before they can be peeled. Shrimp, shrimp seeds, shrimp brains are all there, you can burn three shrimp toppings.
Different from the slow work of peeling shrimp and taking shrimp seeds and shrimp brains, cooking three shrimp toppings pays attention to fast. First of all, the shrimp are cooked, after a little sautéing, the shrimp brain shrimp seeds are added, and the frying is immediately up, because after a long time, the meat quality of the shrimp is old, and the shrimp seeds and shrimp brains are even more important to pay attention to the heat.
There are three different methods of toppings for Su bang noodles: cover pouring, bridge crossing and bottom pouring, cover pouring is to cover the top of the noodles and put them directly in the noodle bowl; crossing the bridge is to put the toppings on a small plate, separated from the noodles; bottom pouring is to put the toppings under the noodles. Different toppings use different methods, and the three shrimp must be crossed, so that diners can mix and eat themselves.
When it comes to toppings, Su bang noodles have many incisions, "no watering" is not toppings, that is, Yangchun noodles; "heavy watering" is the amount of toppings; of course, few people will want "less watering"; "double watering" is two parts of the toppings, which is very rich. There is also "no green" is not to remove garlic leaves, "green" special garlic leaves in Su Bang noodles instead of green onions; "heavy green" is naturally to put more garlic leaves.
Three shrimp noodles must be dry mixed, must be dry mixed. Nine times out of ten, Su bang noodles are soup noodles, noodle soup in the Su bang soup noodles, is very important, "soup water" is an important indicator to judge the Su bang noodles. Because the old saying "singing opera depends on the cavity, the following depends on the soup", so the soup is known as the "soul of the noodles", the soup of Su bang noodles is divided into red soup and white soup, red soup should be as colored as amber, clear and not oily. White soup is even more required to see the bottom, not to see the turbidity, not to add water. Whether it is red soup or white soup, it must have the four characteristics of clear, fragrant, thick and fresh, all of which are slowly simmered "hanging" out of the broth, red soup is made of grass carp head, yellow eel bone, river shrimp, snail shell and other ingredients, and then use fresh barrel bones and old hens to hang fresh, simmer for more than 8 hours. It is said that it is cooked with the scales, gills, fish meat, and mucus of the fish, which is obviously some mysterious and mysterious. The white soup is mainly made of old duck, then added barrel bones and old hens to hang fresh, boil over high heat, simmer slowly over low heat, until the soup is clear and transparent. And the hanging original soup is like the old brine of the brine shop, absolutely not all of it, every day to use some of the remaining soup base and then add new ingredients to hang the soup, only in this way will the soup will be more and more delicious. After years of accumulation, the soup base will be delicious and rich, which is also the magic weapon of many long-established noodle restaurants.
There are two main types of incisions that Su Bang faces the soup: "wide soup" means that the soup should be more, and "tight soup" is that the soup should be less. Old diners are paying attention to the "head soup noodles", that is, the first bowl of noodles after the opening of the noodle restaurant on the same day, the water under the cauldron is clear water, so the noodles are the most smooth, and then the noodles are bowl after bowl, the soup is mixed, and the taste is naturally not on the head soup noodles. Therefore, some old diners would rather not sleep and come to eat head soup noodles in the morning, while some noodle restaurants will also give a bowl of egg skin silk soup to the old customers who come to eat head soup noodles for free to express their gratitude to the old customers for caring for their business.
And when the noodle soup is in the pot, it must be "jumped", that is, the soup water keeps boiling in the soup pot, and only the small bubbles on the side of the pot are constantly churning. if
If the soup is not boiling, it will become "Dian Tang", and when it is seen by the old diners, it must be lifted and left.
So, the su bang noodles that are so exquisite in the opposite soup, why does the top three shrimp noodles not use soup? Because if you use the "hanging" soup, it will dominate the crowd and cover up the deliciousness of the three shrimp noodle toppings, so in order to highlight the toppings of the three shrimp noodles, you do not need the noodle soup, you must mix dry. Of course, when the three shrimp noodles are on, it will also be accompanied by a small soup, which is used to "wash the dishes" in the end, and the shrimp seeds stained at the bottom of the bowl will be thoroughly cleaned. The granules are returned to the warehouse, and do not waste a star and a half.
Su Bang noodles pay attention to the perfect combination of noodles, soup, toppings, after talking about the toppings and soup, it is time to talk about noodles, and there is no doubt that the noodles are naturally the protagonists of the noodles, usually the thin noodles with a diameter of about 1 mm, which is the so-called "silver wire fine noodles". The noodles are required to be thin and long, tough and refreshing. Cook for a long time without paste, put it for a long time, and the roots can be counted. When you enter the mouth, the taste is like the texture of the fibers of the broken meat when eating meat, smooth and chewy.
There are two main types of incisions in the face of Su Bang: "hard noodles" mean that the noodles must have strength, and "soft noodles" are that the noodles are rotten, mainly the elderly guests who have a bad mouth.
The noodles are ready, fished out and put into the bowl, and the bowl is also exquisite in this pot. The bowl is not to drag water and not to pour soup. Face the water, clip it on the chopsticks, eat it into the small claw hedge, shake it twice, turn it over twice, and then roll it tightly, this is the "Guanyin head". Bring it to the bowl without dragging the water. The noodles should be like yards, slightly arched in the middle, like "crucian carp back". Therefore, Su Bang noodles are required to resemble guanyin heads when shaken, and to be on crucian carp back when they are put into the bowl.
Old Suzhou eats noodles and pays attention to three heats, "soup hot, noodles hot, bowl hot". Even the bowl must be hot to ensure the best taste of the noodles when they are ingested. The following master who has a good grasp of the heat, the noodles are ripe at most nine when they are cooked, the noodles are put into the bowl, and then brought to the table, when the diners pick up the chopsticks to pick up the noodles, it is just ten ripe! That's called perfection!
However, three shrimp noodles are not soup noodles, so relatively speaking, there is no such high requirement.
Three shrimp toppings on the table, white shrimp, orange shrimp brain, and a little bit of black shrimp seeds, just this color has made people eat fingers, not to mention the fresh fragrance that comes to the nose. Usually, the three shrimp toppings will also have cucumbers, green vegetables, ginger and other side dishes, and the sophisticated shop will also be accompanied by shrimp seed soy sauce and green onion oil. Especially cucumbers, it is definitely the finishing touch - fresh to rich shrimp shrimp brain shrimp seeds, has the lips and tongue and even the entire mouth, has been "anesthetized", and then come to a bite of crisp cucumber, suddenly awakened!
The beauty of this is indescribable, this is the charm of the three shrimp noodles.
(The picture of this article is from the network)