If there is any city in China that can interpret "not eating from time to time" to the extreme, it must be Suzhou. In the early summer when it had just rained, there were not only loquats in the east mountains, magnolia flowers in the city, but also the much-anticipated gift - shrimp quietly fattened up in rivers and lakes!
Because only in the yellow plum season, when the female shrimp reaches maturity, the body will be full of shrimp seeds, and the head will also grow crystal clear shrimp brain. At this time, some Suzhou people will carry out a huge project: remove the shrimp, shrimp seeds, shrimp brains, fry a plate of toppings, and make a bowl of delicate three shrimp noodles.
What is three-prawn noodles?
"Is there three kinds of shrimp in the three shrimp noodles?" If you ask this question in a noodle restaurant in Suzhou, you may attract undisguised ridicule. The so-called "three shrimps" actually refers to the three treasures on the shrimp: shrimp, shrimp brain, shrimp, they are the most precious things on the shrimp. River shrimp are often present, but shrimp brains and shrimp seeds are not often present, so the fine split makes all diners excited.
In early summer, it is a good time for Taihu lake seed shrimp to produce, fresher than fish and clearer than crab. During this period, every day, people send freshly caught seeded shrimp to the old shops that are still making three shrimp noodles, and through the skillful hands of the old aunts, they quickly separate the parts needed.
First, put the shrimp in clean water and slowly rub the shrimp's abdomen with your hands until the shrimp seeds are gently shaken and then sink to the bottom. Then use a strainer to filter out the shrimp seeds, roast them in advance, dehydrate and remove the fishy aroma, which can make the shrimp seeds taste more umami.
Then the shrimp head and the shrimp body are separated, and the skilled master has a unique shrimp removal technique: holding the shrimp tail in his hand, pushing it out to the front, and gently squeezing it, a complete shrimp is displayed in front of him.
Taking shrimp brains is slightly more complicated, and all shrimp heads must be blanched in water before they can appear golden like agate. After this, the mung bean-sized shrimp brain is carefully removed from the shrimp head, and the layer of white shrimp clothes attached to it is peeled off, leaving a red translucent part, which makes people's appetite increase. It is the key to the umami taste of three shrimp noodles.
When cooking, first sizing the shrimp with egg whites and dry starch, and then the pan is divided into four hot lards to milky white, poured into a colander to filter the oil; the original pot is still placed on the high heat, put in the chopped green onion, and then the shrimp seeds and shrimp brains are slightly fried, add seasonings, chicken soup, pour in the shrimp after the pot is boiled, slightly burned and hooked with thin mustard, drizzled with sesame oil, the toppings of this bowl of three shrimp noodles are completed.
In the past, the old-fashioned Suzhou restaurant also had fried three shrimp, but now because it is too laborious and expensive, it is still made into three shrimp noodles.
Each shrimp is peeled by hand to present you with the most essential parts of the shrimp, which is the most precious place of the three shrimp noodles. The three shrimp noodles are fried on the spot, and the Suzhou people's mouth can be sharpened, and they can eat it slightly. From ordering to serving, it is only two or three minutes, but it contains countless manpower and energy.
The three shrimp noodles that steam out of the pot do not require any MSG condiments to be sweet and fresh, the shrimp meat Q bomb with the gluten of the noodles, and then a delicious soup, the essence of Suzhou noodles is in it.
Two ways to eat three shrimp noodles
In Suzhou, there are two ways to eat three shrimp noodles, one is to "cross the bridge" with soup noodles. Unlike the bald butter that tastes flamboyant, the three shrimp noodles are more Juanxiu of Jiangnan Water Town. Plain and fresh three shrimp toppings, more suitable for white soup, shrimp meat is sweet and delicious, shrimp seeds and shrimp brain are highlighted with strong flavor.
More people will choose to mix noodles. Shops that pay attention to points will usually have a boss or someone to help you mix noodles, because this is also a technical job. Gently slide a small plate of "three shrimps" into the bowl and stir to make the initial contact between the noodles that have just come out of the pot and the base, and the hot noodles can better absorb the original taste of the base;
The second turn increases the contact with the air during the rotation, making the noodle roots smooth and energetic. Three mixes, with chopsticks as the main line, with noodles and three shrimp to do variants, the noodles do not fly, the shrimp do not cross the line, only continue to run in, cut, until completely integrated.
The shrimp aroma is full of nose tips, the noodles are full of chewiness, and the salty aroma of shrimp seeds is also accompanied by a bit of salty aroma of shrimp seeds, coupled with plump shrimp brains and Q bullet shrimp, and it is the correct way to eat three shrimp noodles after sucking in one breath.
Three shrimp noodles, eaten only once a year
As the first brand of Suzhou people's early summer noodles, three shrimp noodles have become the first thoughts of many gourmets after entering the summer with seasonal characteristics, complicated handicraft processes, exquisite cooking methods, fresh taste and golden prices. "Every summer, I have to eat a bowl."
Due to the production period of the seeded shrimp, an important ingredient in the three shrimp noodles, the best time to eat the three shrimp noodles is around the Dragon Boat Festival, which is about from late May to late August, and the life expectancy is only three months. This is a gift from Heaven to the people of Suzhou, and the people of Suzhou generously give it to all those who come to travel.
After eating this bowl of three shrimp noodles, you know that Suzhou people will not only eat, they can also find the world's tiniest beauty, from a plum blossom in the garden to this small bowl of three shrimp noodles. This all-handmade seasonal delicacy is Gu Su's "one period and one meeting", and if you miss this season, you will have to wait until the next year.
Because of the short tasting period and complex artificiality, a bowl of excellent three-shrimp noodles is actually very rare. The following shops are the old shops where Suzhou people like to eat three shrimp noodles the most, and it is guaranteed that it is worth !!! to go to Suzhou for this bowl of noodles.
1. YuxingJi
Address: Suzhou many branches
Price: 98 yuan / bowl
Three shrimp noodles are popular from here.
Among the Su-style noodle restaurants that a group of simple and plain locals love to go to, Yu Xing Ji is the most good at doing things. The three shrimp noodles in mid-summer and the bald butter noodles in autumn are known for being "expensive", and the traditional two-sided yellow noodles are the "crisp noodles" of Suzhou people themselves. Yu Xingji's three shrimp noodles, a bowl of 98 yuan, is the most expensive variety in the menu.
The noodles are combed into crucian carp backs in a bowl, filled with a three-shrimp topping, placed on a plate across the bridge, orange shrimp brains scattered on the shrimp, and look closely at the dots of shrimp seeds.
Shrimp tender, shrimp seeds fresh; shrimp brain flavor; tight soup mixed noodles, neither dilute the delicious shrimp, nor because of the lack of soup to make the noodles not smooth enough; a plate of vegetarian tea, a plate of ginger shreds, three refreshing side dishes, even if the early morning bowl of noodles is also particularly rich and ritualistic.
Pick up a chopstick, the salty and delicious soaked wrapped noodles, shiny and shiny quite a bit of swagger, rich taste, rich aroma, after eating still let people still not finish, really want to shout: boss, another bowl.
2. Mimiansai
Address: No. 50 Jiayufang
Price: 158 yuan / bowl
Mimian Zhai is a newly promoted Su-style noodle restaurant in recent years, and it has been frequently screened in the past two years because of its new style and high-priced ingredients. The name "Yumian Zhai" sounds like the name given by Yubi himself when Qianlong went down to Jiangnan, which is quite arrogant, but in fact, the storefront is so small that it can only put four tables, and if you don't pay attention, you will miss it.
Small to small, but it is arranged in an ancient way, quite a bit of a mood. Chinese-style tables, chairs and hanging paintings, spotless tableware and tea sets, this environment is a boutique compared to ordinary noodle restaurants.
Mimiansai's three-shrimp noodles are quite different from other shops. The toppings of the Gomyo Sai are directly covered on the surface and do not cross the bridge. Three shrimp are fried separately, white jade shrimp, shrimp brain shaped like red rice, and crimson shrimp seeds, which are clearly distinguished from each other, lying on the pale yellow dragon's whisker noodles; then poured with shrimp seed soy sauce and shallot oil, no side dishes such as green vegetables and ginger shreds.
It is also different from the dry mix of other homes, this one is tight soup wet mix. When it is served, first loosen the noodles, you can smell the aroma of green onions, and the worm in the stomach of the hooker is eager to move.
Pick up a chopstick at random, you can see the shrimp seeds densely glued to the noodles, and the noodle soup after adding shrimp seed soy sauce makes the noodles quite smooth and soft in the mouth. Take a bite of shrimp, fresh and tender, syrup and stir-fry.
The smooth tenderness of the shrimp, the dry aroma of the shrimp brain and the freshness of the shrimp seeds stir the taste buds in the form of a trio, forming an evocative music!
3. Zhu Hongyuan
Address: No. 436 Changjiang Road Emerald Plaza Phase II Building 2 1019 Shop
Price: 108 yuan / bowl
Zhu Hongyuan is actually a new Internet celebrity, and his history is not very long. Its shop is simple and tidy, and the large three shrimp noodles on the walls are coveted. This shop is more arrogant, and the time to launch three shrimp noodles every year is later than other families, and it must wait until the shrimp seeds are fat enough to sell.
Zhu Hongyuan's three shrimp noodles are also across the bridge, the noodles are present, the toppings are fried, and when they are served, a bowl of dragon's whisker noodles, a plate of ginger shreds, a dish of green vegetables, a bowl of clear soup, and the highlight - the fried three shrimp are arranged in turn on the table, which is particularly tempting.
Because of the fear that the guests' noodle mixing techniques and speeds cannot reach the best taste, Zhu Hongyuan's each bowl of three shrimp noodles is personally mixed by the service staff. Therefore, if the photo is too long, the boss will also urge: "Don't shoot it, and then delay the noodles will fall off." ”
The noodles full of soup are thin and tendonic, fresh and sweet, shrimp seeds are fragrant, shrimp brains are firm, shrimp Q bullets, and every bite is very satisfying. The essence of su-style noodles is actually still in the bowl of hanging broth. Zhu Hongyuan provided a small bowl of soup, freshly boiled with asparagus and other ingredients, fresh and sweet and refreshing just to relieve the grease of eating noodles.
4. Sun Shengxing Ao Stove Noodle Restaurant
Address: No. 35, On the foundation of Shantang Street
Sun Shengxing was originally famous for the Austrian stove noodles, but the three shrimp noodles this season are also quite good. Unlike other families, Sun Shengxing's soup base is a simple seasoned red soup base. Served with white noodles, it adds a slightly sweeter umami flavor. A bowl of three shrimp noodles, in addition to three shrimp toppings, is also accompanied by the store's special rich side dishes, so that your taste buds instantly come alive.
5. Hu Shengxing
Address: Renmin Road No. 586 next to the welfare lottery
Hu Shengxing, who is also highly recommended by locals, feels a strong local characteristic as soon as he enters the store. Whether it is the aunt at the cash register or most of the guests, they all speak Suzhou dialect and are very lively.
Every summer, Hu Shengxing's excellent three shrimp noodles can always attract endless guests, this bowl of noodles can be described in four words simple and rude: noodles fine shrimp compared to ordinary three shrimp noodles, the quality and taste of the best three shrimp noodles are higher.
It is twice the size of the shrimp used in the three shrimp noodles and spans the palm of an adult's hand. And the shrimp it uses can often only be selected from one or two hundred pounds, which is really valuable.
The boss insists on using Taihu lake wild shrimp to make this bowl of excellent three-shrimp noodles, and the meat quality is more Q-bomb than ordinary shrimp, and there is no fishy taste at all.
For the choice of noodles, Hu Shengxing is not sloppy at all. The dragon's whisker noodles are made by adding extra wheat flour and eggs and kneading the noodles 6 times repeatedly, which makes the noodles more smooth and tough.
When eating, watching this bowl of essence "three shrimp" into the bowl is a great satisfaction for foodies.
Stir well while hot, let the deliciousness of the toppings blend into the strong noodles, and the scattered shrimp seeds are densely arranged on the finished noodles like stars, with bright colors and fragrant aromas, making people salivate.
The shrimp is large, well handled and has a q-bomb taste, and it is absolutely full of freshness in the mouth. The shrimp seeds are evenly wrapped on the soft and powerful noodles, and you can eat the delicious shrimp seeds in every bite.
Mixed with the grainy feeling of the shrimp brain, the "three shrimp" entrance, lips and teeth remain fragrant, the aftertaste is endless, but it is really fresh to the "heavens".