To say that the hottest bowl of "net red noodles" on the market this season, it must be Suzhou's three shrimp noodles!
▲ Stir well the three shrimp noodles
Good-looking shape, shrimp teeth, shrimp brain crispness, shrimp seed grain, incomparable shrimp aroma, although the price is often hundreds of yuan, but every year will always want to eat a bowl. So much so that there is even a theory on the Internet: if you have not eaten three shrimp noodles, you are not counted as Suzhou noodles.
The proponents of the three shrimp noodles have two major arguments:
First of all, the three shrimp noodles show the two most important characteristics of Su Bang cuisine very well.
First, from time to time, there is no food, and the three shrimp noodles are only sold from May to June every year;
Second, delicate and delicate, making three shrimp noodles, time-consuming, laborious and laborious, as if "to do a meticulous surgical operation for green shrimp".
▲ This season's seed shrimp is not cheap
Secondly, such a bowl of noodles is not expensive in terms of cost.
This season's seed shrimp, a pound of expensive can sell for 70 yuan, a pound of shrimp can be three or two shrimp, a bowl of three shrimp noodles, give a little generous can only make two bowls of noodles, counting ingredients, freight, preservation fees, and working hours... The three shrimp noodles that are really seriously made are not expensive at all.
▲ Freshly peeled shrimp seeds shrimp brain, from Shanghai Dongwu Shifu
So, it seems that if you really go to Suzhou and don't eat bowls of three shrimp noodles, it seems that you can't say it?
Non and non also, in my opinion, the three shrimp noodles that used to be able to represent Suzhou; but now the three shrimp noodles on the market in Suzhou have long since changed their flavor.
First of all, nowadays, so many noodle restaurants supply three shrimp noodles, in Suzhou, has already formed an industrial chain, the market basically no noodle restaurants are handmade with fresh shrimp -
You say you can see an aunt peeling shrimp by hand in a noodle restaurant?
▲ Black pearl 2 diamond restaurant Huachi 88 shrimp peeling posture, let's compare the old aunt of the noodle restaurant
© Chef Wang's circle of friends
Help! Most of them are putting on a show! Now the noodle restaurant in Suzhou, in the case of good business, can sell hundreds of bowls of three shrimp noodles in one morning, and two aunts sit there to peel for a day, and it is enough to make 2 or 30 bowls of noodles.
In his recent article "Nonsense And Three Shrimp Noodles", the gourmand Lao Botou pointed out: "In the factory in Suzhou, you can buy ready-made shrimp seeds, ready-made shrimp brains and ready-made shrimp. ”
▲ 55g shrimp seeds, 15 yuan
© 1688.com
Why do we eat three shrimp noodles? Because the seed shrimp are ripe this season, it is the most delicious time of the year. The one we eat is seasonal, but if it is all factory goods, can I understand that we can eat three shrimp noodles all year round? Because it's okay to freeze.
Second, in order to save costs and make the presentation look good, the cooking methods and proportions of three shrimp are becoming more and more problematic.
Let's take a look at this picture:
Shrimp pink, shrimp seed brown, shrimp brain red, layered. Pretty good looking isn't it?
But what I'm going to tell you is that this three shrimp is definitely not delicious. Because he cooked the shrimp and directly sprinkled shrimp seeds and shrimp brains on the plate.
This has led to the lack of the rich shrimp flavor that the three shrimp once had. River shrimp is originally a light aquatic product, the emergence of three shrimp, is to rely on shrimp seeds and shrimp brain with shrimp stir-frying, to make up for the lack of river shrimp shrimp flavor shortcomings, and now three shrimp in order to save costs and the pursuit of good looks, but let this dish cut corners.
▲ This bowl is slightly better, but the proportion of shrimp seeds and shrimp brains is too small
Not to mention the shrimp brain under this method, tasteless and hard.
Third, the toppings of three shrimp noodles are actually not so suitable for making noodles! The most direct embodiment is that without a little effort, your bowl of noodles can't be mixed evenly!
Want to mix the shrimp first, the shrimp brain was taken aside, the shrimp brain is too little; want to mix the shrimp seeds, mix it up and then trip the shrimp that has just been mixed to the edge of the noodles; it is hard to eat a bite, and find that there is still noodles underneath; a chopstick clip up, the shrimp brain is drained and instigated to fall to the bottom... A bowl of three shrimp noodles, in the end, either the noodles were eaten first and the shrimp left under the bottom, or the shrimp were eaten and there was a small half bowl of noodles.
▲ It will dry out after a long time
According to what we said before, three shrimp noodles are time-consuming, laborious, and it is not expensive to sell for 100 yuan. But now the three shrimp noodles are cutting corners in a time-saving and labor-saving way.
Spend 100 yuan, queue for 10 minutes, eat a bowl of noodles in 5 minutes, leave two photos, the service depends on the roar, the table depends on the fight, such a bowl of three shrimp noodles, not cost-effective at all, not delicious at all, and not at all exquisite suzhounese.
▲ In fact, three shrimp noodles are also divided into soup noodles, half soup noodles, mixed noodles and other ways to eat
Finally, the bowl of three shrimp noodles has actually left the life of Suzhou people for too long.
Tang Lusun once recorded in the article "Eating in Shanghai": "Suzhou Songhe Tower has a taoist way to call three shrimp hot mix noodles, which is to mix noodles with the oil of shrimp, shrimp seeds and shrimp brains", which sounds similar to the form of three shrimp noodles today. Looking at other recipes after the founding of the People's Republic of China, it is difficult to find traces of three shrimp noodles.
From my experience as a local, in Suzhou more than ten or twenty years ago, I almost did not have a noodle restaurant selling three shrimp noodles this bowl of noodles - there are fried three shrimp, three shrimp tofu is also available, but when it comes to three shrimp noodles, it is really rare.
▲ Delicious Zhai and Tong Dexing, which I often go to in Suzhou, do not make three shrimp noodles
Although ten years later, there is hardly a noodle restaurant in Suzhou that does not make three shrimp noodles. It can be said that today's Suzhou people are full of feelings for this bowl of noodles, and feel that this bowl of noodles can represent the current Suzhou, I think many Suzhou people do not buy it.
Admittedly, the seed shrimp of this season are very good. However, compared with the "flood" of three shrimp noodles, many Suzhou people are more willing to eat so many traditional three shrimp dishes.
▲ The old shop Xinjufeng Youdao special customized three shrimp - stir-fried shrimp, eggplant sauce shrimp, emerald shrimp
When you invite guests to eat, directly ask the familiar boss to fry a stir-fried three shrimp, it doesn't matter if it's more expensive, so that it is called eating too much! Can't eat, and finally the next bowl of noodles, it is definitely more comfortable than crowding people in the noodle restaurant;
Suzhou famous shop Huachi 88's new dish three shrimp hoof tendons, fierce hands, a large number of shrimp brain shrimp seeds mixed with shrimp, almost the soft and tender long hoof tendons as noodles in use;
There is also the use of peeled three shrimp to cook tender tofu, with a small fire slightly boiled, slippery and fresh, this is the Su bang old dish three shrimp tofu, more highlight the characteristics of three shrimp, no need to go to Suzhou, Shanghai's Fu 1015 is doing very well;
▲ Three shrimp tofu @ Fu 1015
Don't forget Suzhou people's favorite shrimp seed soy sauce! This is a soy sauce with shrimp seeds, sugar and sorghum wine, which is even more delicious. It is used to dip the white cut meat and white chopped chicken raised by the farmer, and it also attaches a layer of elegance to the farmhouse dish.
Compared with three shrimp noodles, many Suzhou people are more inclined to eat a bowl of Fengzhen large meat noodles in the season.
▲ Suzhou famous store with Dexing's Fengzhen large meat noodles
Such a bowl of noodles, white soup and white meat, refreshing and refreshing, but rich in connotation - the meat is selected from the highest hard ribs and flowers, and it is better to have cartilage. It needs to be simmered for 5 hours, and then the soup is a mixture of chicken bones, meat bones, yellow eel bones and fish bones, the secret is to increase the wine brewing, to provide a hint of sour and wine aroma to the noodle soup, the umami flavor is more complex; as for the noodles, it is a machine-pressed fine noodle that has not been soaked for a long time.
▲ A mouthful of cartilage, the most soul-destroying
Toppings, soups, and noodles look ordinary, but they are all exquisite, like a bullet word that Su Bai chanted, warm but delicate, gentle and long.
▲ There is not a drop left, the greatest respect for food, for the chef, for the restaurant
Compared with the publicity of the three shrimp noodles, in fact, the fengzhen large meat noodles can better reflect the introverted and elegant of Suzhou people.
Speaking of which, I don't want to take the maple town meat noodles to "pull" the three shrimp noodles. It's just disgusted with the idea of using one or two Internet celebrity foods to represent a city.
Although the three shrimp noodles are good, do not be superstitious.
In the past, we have praised the delicious taste of three shrimp noodles more than once, and more than once recommended this exquisite bowl of Suzhou noodles to everyone across the country. And when the three shrimp noodles become "net red", we are not straightforward, but through personal experience, I want to explore with you the reasons why the three shrimp noodles have changed their taste.
▲ A bowl of simple braised meat noodles is sometimes the reason for coming to Suzhou
Suzhou noodles actually have a variety of tastes, the mellowness of the stewed meat, the pot gas of the waist flower, the elegance of the marinated duck... These changes, these craftsmanships, these people and stories hidden behind them, together make up the flavor that belongs to Suzhou. We don't want to think of Suzhou noodles when we talk about three shrimp noodles.
"Net celebrity" is not the standard for testing the quality of food, the taste is.
Source: Fu Tao nine points full