In the past, in early spring, the best thing in the Guanzhong people's vegetable garden was leeks. Although it is already "green willow river opening, spring back to the geese", but many artificial vegetables are still in the swaddling, only the leeks that have been stored for a winter have long been probing in the wind, and in the middle of spring, the growth place is standing tall. Nanqi Zhou Yong said: "Early spring early leeks, late autumn late pineapples", spring leeks, the best quality, late autumn followed, summer is the worst. Therefore, there is a folk saying that "spring food is fragrant, summer food is smelly".
Leeks are the home vegetables that have been rooted for many years, so they are very easy to cultivate, and in many farmhouses, in front of and behind the houses, in the vegetable garden, leeks are always indispensable. One year, the unit organized a spring tour, in the mountain village of Lantian, a cluster of leeks can be seen everywhere, the leaves are fresh and tender, the wind swaying, for the plains people who are accustomed to seeing the whole vegetables, it is really the first time to appreciate the wild fun of leeks. The best thing is that there are scrambled eggs with leeks on the table at noon, leeks are mountain leeks, eggs are native eggs, and their taste is mellow and everyone is happy, which not only reminds me of my childhood.
I planted leeks in the vegetable table with my mother, a small party, full of expectations, because my mother said that when the wind warmed, she could make leek boxes for me to eat. At that time, I planted a lot of vegetables at home, the weather turned slightly warmer, when the morning breeze was particularly cold, I often had to go to the vegetable field, the job was to serve the seedlings of peppers, cucumbers, zucchini and tomatoes, and also look at my leeks, starting from the yellow-green buds in the dead leaves, my gaze was related to the purity of its color, and the most worrying thing every day was to see how green it was, how tall. The green was the most moving, growing up, covering the color of the earth, and looking at it, it seemed that the smell had reached my tongue.
Guanzhong people's way of eating leeks depends on the food, and there are many. In addition to stir-frying, there are also condiments for making cakes, such as noodles and churned dumplings, as well as flowers in soup.
Because leeks are available in both the north and the south, and the south is more abundant, there are many leeks. For example, shredded leeks, leek stir-fried bacon, bacon stir-fried leeks, leek bean residue cake, leek fried cold powder, squid fried leeks, leek stir-fried silkworm pupae, leek shrimp soup, leek stir-fried vermicelli, leek stir-fried shrimp, leek hazelnut salad, leek stir-fried pork liver... It's hard to count. When I was in Suzhou, one of the dishes I liked to eat was fried with leeks and screws, and in the warm spring, on the side of the township road near the school, leeks and screws were listed together, and the old uncle and the old lady carried a small bamboo basket and squatted on the side of the road. The leeks are grown at home, the screws are fished in the stone lake, and everything is spring. Colleagues are from Anhui, buy some to fry, with rice wine, that is the happiest pleasure and consumption on the weekend.
It was also found that the enjoyment of a taste of food was not only in itself, but related to the land, climate and human emotions.
In middle school, I read Du Fu's poem "Eight Virgins for The Guardian", which has a sentence "The night rain cuts spring leeks, and the new cooking room is yellow sorghum." "For more than a thousand years, it has been widely sung. The poet's meeting with his friends is three years after the Anshi Rebellion, when the country's strength withers and the situation is turbulent. Du Fu, who was then the Sigong of Huazhou, returned to Huazhou from Luoyang, and when he had black hair and white sideburns, the chaos of Anshi also brought many changes in family affairs and relatives, and he was so happy to meet in the chaotic world! So, the friend braved the night rain, cut some leeks in his own vegetable garden, steamed yellow sorghum rice, generously put the lamp, and talked with candles and tears. Therefore, although this chat is a few words, it is sincere and moving.
In the spring sun, many households will emit the aroma of leeks, which are housewives making leek boxes, and the newly cut leeks and the flour of the next year will spread the seductive aroma in the warm roasting. The vegetable box is very thin, the leek leaves are tender, the soft wheat grass fire licks the iron pot, the heat is the most important, my mother told me, almost do not have to pull the bellows, a little bit of wheat grass in the fire can be, the best is to use wheat grain skin, sprinkle a layer on it, small fire blue flame, the temperature is the most appropriate.
The leek box that came out of the searing, like a jade plate, cut with a knife, into a triangle shape, the child's most excited behavior, is to carry the vegetable box to the door, the hot vegetable box, the temperature is very high, but still can't help but mouth, the tongue does not dare to go up, from the tip of the corner, bite a small piece, the leek juice has already touched the tongue moss, so while screaming, while using the teeth to pinch the leek, while shouting: "Wow! Yummy! Yummy! As a result, naturally, it attracted a wave of scolding from the family.
The aroma of leeks and five-spice powder and salt, after the temperature of the blend, deep into the flour, this kind of wheat flour made of pancakes, thinner than any kind of cake in Guanzhong, so the locals call it "box", about this word, I and the skillful hands have discussed, is it "he", "dumpling" or "box" is appropriate? The first thing to exclude is "dumplings", because the food is a strip of pasta used for boiling. And "combination" and "box" can make sense. This kind of double-layered cake, to roll out the noodles are generally thin, after a little baking, because the leeks are easy to juice, it is moist inside and scorched outside, very delicious.
In the past, in the countryside, there was no bus, the words were also high, the old shouted, there was no need to be close to people, so the smell of all kinds of onions, ginger and garlic was not a problem, but now, sometimes I had to pay attention, especially on the crowded shuttle, the smell was mixed, and then a leek garlic smell, it was really not elegant. However, on a spring weekend, you may wish to do it yourself, burn a few leek boxes, bathe in the breeze and warm sun, and make a cup of tea, and chew and taste, will it be incomparably comfortable?!
#头条美食 #