The morning I heard the news of Anthony Bourdain's suicide, I was making American scrambled eggs in the kitchen.
Text | Jing Wenting Edited | kk
Reprinted from: Passenger Stack
（id：lifehotel）
Anthony bourdain,
This writer and chef, star host,
On June 8, local time, he was found to have committed suicide in a hotel in France at the age of 61.
Hercules dad was reading the New York Times in the living room, and he suddenly exclaimed, quickly jumped into the kitchen to shove the newspaper in front of me, and I glanced at it and almost knocked over a plate of eggs.
It was pretty much one of my favorite breakfasts, simple and classic, and the recipe was stolen from Anthony Bourdain's interview. He would say that the key to American scrambled eggs is fresh eggs, that milk and cream do little to improve the taste of eggs, and that he would mention that he beat eggs with a fork and never overdo it. When making eggs, he stressed twice that he was "old-fashioned academic".
But in fact, he himself is not an old-fashioned person, he is a maverick rock 'n' roll creed in the culinary world. According to CNN, he is "the bad boy of the culinary world, an Elvis-like presence." In his books and shows, he shows not just the food, but the cultural diversity behind it. He speaks out for the marginalized people of society, and he also raises his arms for the working environment of restaurant employees.
After all, he came out of that real kitchen environment, which is discussed in his book Kitchen Confidential. He once said, "In the United States, the professional kitchen is the last refuge of the three teachings and nine streams, and for those who have an embarrassing past, they can find a feeling of home in the back kitchen." This sentence is more like an index of his own early life.
As a young man, Anthony Bourdain was an addict, and the kind of mourning that pervaded his body almost ruined the first half of his life, and he himself frequently mentioned this past in later interviews, and said at one time when doing "Parts Unknown": Some people wake up in the morning and the first thing they do is to find drugs, and I feel the same.
Little already knows how he struggled to get out of these dark years, but Anthony Bourdain later dropped out of Vaasa College of Arts and Sciences in New York to enter chef school, working his way from assembly line chef to sous chef and eventually becoming executive chef at the Brasserie les Halles restaurant in Manhattan.
When he was young, he was anthony ©gregwattswriter.co.uk who appeared as a handsome chef
After becoming famous, Anthony Bourdain had many observations and theories. He would talk about changes in American society and discuss why the American people began to fall in love with Asian food. You know, for a long time, Americans were very depressed about the choice of food, and then they finally accepted sushi and created Mexican sushi rolls; then they finally accepted Sichuan hot pot, and they didn't move when it came to butter; and then they finally accepted the chewy taste of gum, even pig ears they learned to appreciate!
Anthony Bourdain presents a vicious and profound image of a food critic and traveler, and his influence goes far beyond this ©film daily
The production of the review site yelp gave the American people the opportunity to express their enthusiasm for food, so you can finally see a different life, you finally know that the United States not only has a unified standard of hamburger coke, they also have crayfish, they can also inhale while stuffing spicy food into their mouths, and they will also open a map cannon for their beloved food.
You know, at least in the sixties, Americans didn't actively talk about eating, and in their view, eating was just a supplement to watching a ball or a movie. This is a classic old-school American practice. I remember that until the first decade of the new century, when I was still working for the traditional and stubborn American Fortune 500, every time the so-called employee dinner, we were still seriously discussing work.
It is Anthony Bourdain who taught Americans how to talk about eating instead of working when it's time to eat.
But now, American society is different from the younger generation in the United States. They'll talk about eating, about what they ate yesterday, what they're eating today, and what they can eat tomorrow. Everyone in the social network is posting photos, testing poison with cameras before eating, and from time to time, they will create online food from online to offline, and a large wave of people rush from one location to another to go to the so-called punch card. From this point of view of Anthony Bourdain's observation, the earth is really becoming more and more like a village, and the aesthetics and ideas between different national borders are overlapping.
Food seems to be a bridge to social order.
Anthony Bourdain at Stony Brook University in Madagascar ©
He said in an interview:
The little moments I've experienced while traveling around the world, like in Saudi Arabia, Palestine, Libya, Baltics, Baselhus, Liberia, or even congo, they look at you, they watch you pick up food and put it in your mouth, and you're not just eating, you're actually resonating with them.
It's hard to say, "No, forget it, I'm still not eating." ”
If you have the misfortune to ruin this moment, then it's all over. They won't tell you what they know that would have told you interesting things because you rejected everything they loved and the soil in which they were rooted.
The open attitude to this is that you always say "I want to try, I'm interested, wow, how did you do it?" "Then people will tell you too.
Anthony Bourdain debuted as a chef, but what really made him famous was not his career as a chef, but the book "Kitchen Secrets" and later television programs based on his own life experiences. Kitchen Secrets was once on the New York Times bestseller list.
After the book, he also wrote A Chef's Journey (2001) and filmed the TV show of the same name, which focused on his global food search. In 2006, he published Nasty Bits, which is more like a collection of essays on eating.
Not only did he publish books, but he also frequently published articles in the media, including the New York Times, The New Yorker, Time Magazine, Los Angeles Times, and other well-known media outlets in the United States. Many people love him because of his sharp and outspoken pen, he has also complained about some of the absurd trends favored by the elite, and he has criticized the ignorance of brunch.
He has also done a lot of TV shows. In addition to the aforementioned "A Chef's Trip," he did Borden Unlimited for seven years from 2005 to 2012, followed by Bourdain's Short Stay from 2011 to 2013.
In this show, he visits a city early every time, staying only a day or two, telling TV viewers about travel secrets that locals know.
This show actually has a little duplication with "Bourdain Unlimited", but "Short Stay" may be because of the relationship between the travel channel and more emphasis on providing travel information, but he still has not given up the hobby of poisonous tongue, such as he complains from time to time, and even says that "the escalator is to help you walk, not to make you completely go."
Honestly, I didn't watch his early shows on Food Channel and Travel Channel, and when I first watched his TV show, it was parts unknown in the CNN era.
At that time, I was very surprised, after all, in my natural impression, cnn was just a news channel that exploded news emergencies at every turn. As a result, the show actually became a legend, not only won five Emmy Awards, but also occupied the main broadcast time of the CNN channel, and Anthony Bourdain's face almost became cnn's signature face.
A food show became CNN's signature ©o.aolcdn.com
Because it is a signboard, because the show he made is too easy to resonate, after his suicide, the most commented on Twitter is almost the audience's "as if a close friend has been lost".
I was once writing a manuscript, the TV was on, and when I looked up, I found that it was Anthony Bourdain, and that episode he was visiting the San Francisco Bay Area. He talked about some very daily shops, about the history of the Bay Area and the changes in ethnic groups, about the troubles caused by the high-tech companies to the general population and the chef industry, that was the first time I jumped out of the perspective of the family of technology code farmers to examine the technology industry, and it was also the first time I thought about my inappropriate criticism of the Bay Area's catering industry.
Compared with the high welfare of high-tech companies, most restaurants can cash in on the happiness of employees is very limited, so there are many restaurant employees in the Bay Area who simply apply to enter the back kitchen of major technology companies - high salaries and benefits, good working hours are shorter, which further exacerbates the difficulty of recruiting workers in the catering industry in the Bay Area, thus indirectly increasing the labor cost of restaurants.
Obama posted a photo on Facebook of the time in memory of Anthony
Many people see the exuberance of a new type of phenomenon, but few see the impact behind the boom, and that's what Anthony Bourdain is good at. He not only shows people food, but also makes people feel human nature and society.
In the middle and back of the show, Anthony Bourdain eats at the Minato Japanese restaurant in San Jose, and I am a little excited at once, it turns out that I am so close to celebrities, and the restaurant location where he sat in the interview is not the booth where our family last went to Teriyaki chicken leg set!
The San Jose minato restaurant tweeted photos of the time in memory of Anthony
I thought to myself, it turns out that I used to be so close to celebrities. When I talked about him again, it was as if I was talking about a friend who was very close to me. But I did have a close chef friend who had a relationship with Anthony Bourdon, who was invited to New York and almost made the trip. My friend's name is Zhang Shuming, and he is the head of Xiamen Heming Restaurant. He has a signature dish that even Cai Lan praises, Xiamen pancakes.
Last year, he took the dish to Manila, Philippines, to attend the "World Snack Congress", where Anthony Bourdon tasted it and praised it, and said he wanted to invite Zhang Shuming to New York. Unfortunately, for some reason, Zhang Shuming did not have time to go to New York, and Antony Bourdain's World Snack Food Court plan was also stranded due to the approval of the project address.
In 2014, Anthony Bourdain photographed ©cntraveler.com on the streets of Vietnam
Sometimes life is full of various encounters, and a certain rubbing shoulder between people may be eternal or unique. Like the anthony Bourdain show I subscribed to, I always felt that it didn't matter, I could watch it slowly, but just now I found out that all the shows were about to expire on June 16th. If I don't renew my subscription, I may not soon see this not-so-good-looking uncle who can make people remember the show.
But I also realized that even if I renewed my subscription, this cool uncle with a clever pen would never come back. I don't want to believe that such a guy who was still laughing and joking on the show last week is over, and I choose to believe that he is just going to another world to explore the unknown.
anthony bourdain
(1956-2018)
r.i.p.
Jing Wenting, columnist, fine dining enthusiast,
Author of "Xiamen 24 Hours", now living in Silicon Valley,
Founder of ITALE.
Source| Nandu Weekly
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