There is tradition in the middle of the miscellaneous
Rough in the middle of the exquisite
Retain the taste of Beijing
Passing on the culture of gastronomy
Food culture in Beijing
Same as the Great Wall, the Forbidden City, and the Summer Palace
All are indispensable to the city
Important signs and cultural symbols
And "snacks"
It is the food culture of Beijing
An integral part
Today, The Cultural Tourism Jun introduces you
"Burnt bread" and "noodle tea"
Pancake
Burnt cakes are said to be one of the representatives of Chinese pasta. And it is a particularly famous representative.
The varieties of baked cakes in the north and south, that is, have a long history and a hundred flowers, let alone a hundred kinds. Huangqiao baked cake, hanging stove baked cake, horseshoe baked cake, oil residue baked cake, minced meat baked cake, Zhoucun baked cake... Whichever one alone represents local cuisine.
However, in Beijing, when it comes to burnt cakes, it generally refers to "old Beijing baked cakes".
Generally, when eating shabu-shabu, when the staple food is eaten, you can also add beef with sauce, when it is early. Eat freely, but demandingly.
Although it is a cake, the craftsmen in Beijing will not be satisfied at all. An old Beijing baked cake, two sides, cut open, eighteen layers is the foundation, the old craftsman can make more than thirty layers. There is tahini on each layer.
(Image source: Beijing Evening News.) Infringement is deleted)
Why pursue layers?
It's not for seeing, it's about eating. In each layer, there is steaming air and fragrant tahini. The more layers, the better the taste.
A real master must not only be recognized by laymen, but also be convinced by peers. Before the founding of New China, there was a Mr. Wang Fuyu in Beijing, who was a first-class master of baking cakes. Got a nickname of "one knife accurate".
This is said to be the old man Wang and the noodles to make baked cakes, water and noodles are accurately grasped, a knife cut down, just can make ten burnt cakes.
Of course, being accurate is not a necessary condition for making a good burnt cake, it is only a symptom. You also have to be able to make peace and fall on the mountain.
In the snack bar of Longfu Temple in the 1980s, there was a young man who could make two thousand baked cakes a day, and each baked cake was cut open, like a book, layered and soft and sweet.
This young man's name is Feng Huaishen, who is the apprentice of "one knife quasi" Wang Laozi, and he also got a nickname called "Kuaishou Feng".
"Kuaishou Feng" is also in his sixties this year, is a state-certified "intangible cultural heritage inheritor", and has his own apprentice. He said, "You have to pass on this craft." ”
(Image source: Beijing Intangible Cultural Heritage Center.) Infringement is deleted)
Noodle tea
Noodle tea is the afternoon tea of Beijingers. No one seems to know exactly what it started.
Noodle tea is actually not tea, no tea leaves. Noodle tea is more like porridge, the first time I see people, from the appearance to the taste, do not feel that it has anything to do with tea.
Many of The traditional snacks in Beijing cannot be made at home, but noodle tea can.
Boiling the noodles or millet noodles into a paste and pouring tahini on the surface in a circle is a bit like today's coffee flowers. Sprinkle another layer of sesame seeds and finally, add salt and pepper according to your personal taste. That incense, drill nose, and even called it the most popular snack among old Beijingers.
(Image source: Discover New Fengtai.) Infringement is deleted)
The reason why noodle tea is the most popular snack among old Beijingers may be largely related to tahini. Beijingers' craze for tahini is unreasonable. Versatile and unsatisfied, but all the food that is related to it is basically loved.
Then there is the fact that the noodle tea is very "carrying time". In the past, there was a lot of manual labor, eating a bowl of noodle tea, not hungry for a few hours, and it was also economical, but in that era of scarcity, it was definitely the best choice.
The way to eat noodle tea is also very Beijing characteristics. He is a member of the old Beijing "sucking slip" series of cuisines.
No chopsticks, no spoon, hands holding the bowl, can not be in a hurry, slowly suck along the edge of the bowl to eat. Every sip of hot noodle tea is wrapped in a cool air. Eating in this way can avoid tableware, second, you can avoid being burned, and eating in winter can also warm your hands.
The eating method of fried liver and bean juice is similar to this. However, nowadays, it seems that it is rare to see anyone eat like this, after all, the posture is slightly exaggerated, and it will make a certain sound, which is inevitably embarrassing.
(Image source: Triptych Gourmet.) Infringement is deleted)
Noodle tea used to be early, and there are not many places in Beijing where you can eat noodle tea now, and some old Beijing snack bars that sell bean juice and burnt cakes can be bought. There are very few shops that specialize in noodle tea.
Regarding noodle tea, it is slightly embarrassing now. Young people do not understand, pay attention to people feel that nutritional intake is unbalanced, the elderly want to eat, it is not easy to find. Noodle tea, a unique snack in Beijing, is gradually on the verge of extinction.
In fact, in addition to meeting the needs of survival, eating and drinking may be a way of life.
When this bowl of noodle tea is picked up, what is eaten into the mouth is the compound aroma of grain, sesame paste and pepper and salt; what reaches the stomach is energy; what reaches the heart is the attitude of the ancestors of the Beijing people: harmony and contentment.
Today's "Eat in Beijing"
That's it
See you in the next issue
Content Source:
"Old Beijing Narrative Food And Famous Food"
Image Source:
Beijing Evening News
Discover the new Fengtai
Beijing Intangible Cultural Heritage Center
Triptych cuisine
-END-