When it comes to traditional snacks, whether it is the old Tianjin Wei or the old Beijingers, there is no noodle tea shop that does not eat the most proud of themselves, and enthusiastically recommends it to you. It was just a shame that the fox could not even speak Tianjin dialect, and the tianjin people who were not orthodox had only been in Beijing for a few years. Therefore, on the issue of "which is stronger in noodle tea", you can only eat other people's Amway - talking is also three years ago.
That summer, I went to Beijing on a business trip with the leaders of the society and drove by car. The former leader of the highway said to have an early breakfast together, and I will take you to an old shop here. So a group of four people found a place to park the car, and wandered with the leader to a breakfast shop called "Shanggangzi Noodle Tea". The leader said proudly, don't look at the store is unremarkable, it is an old store. Who's who you know? As soon as he arrived on the weekend, he got up early in the morning and took a lunch box to buy this noodle tea, his own and his wife's, and each person packed it up and went back to eat it.
"Who's who" is a little famous figure in the circle, needless to mention. I can't say a few words about this shop that has a head start: I also asked Du Niang after returning home to know that the "shanggangzi" in the name of the store and the "laid-off" that were originally randomly associated are actually not half a cent. This shop was originally opened in Tianjin Chenjiagou Shanggangzi West Hutong, but it was named after the place, in the early shops all over the ground, this family's reputation is the highest - if there were public comments at that time, I am afraid that it would not become an Internet celebrity at that time?
Early in the morning diners Win-Gate (Image source: Internet)
Writing here, it seems necessary to explain what "noodle tea" is, so as not to be confused by the small partners in the field, or mistakenly imagine it as butter tea or even milk tea and other things. In fact, noodle tea is a porridge-like snack made with millet noodles, topped with sesame sauce seasoning, and peanut crumbles, pretzels and ginger powder. No tea or anything.
True · Noodle tea · ID photo (Image source: Internet)
Who exactly was noodle tea and when was it invented? This question is already difficult to verify. Although the minnan people will proudly say that noodle tea is a marching dry food invented by Qi Jiguang when he resisted the Wu Dynasty, their noodle tea is a sweet dish that is drunk with boiling water after being fried with flour and sugar, oil, peanuts, and sesame seeds. And the salty noodle tea in the Beijing-Tianjin area cannot be mixed in a bowl.
Minnan noodle tea looks more like sesame paste (Image source: network)
Regarding the origin of noodle tea, it is more reliable to say that "Manchu and Mongolian Han food culture integration": Mongolian milk tea (boiled with tea, added salt) is delicious but can not be used as rice, add some yellow rice noodles or black noodles to cook together, it is more time to carry. Later, this way of eating was brought to the Eight Banners by the Mongolian flag people, and by the Manchurian flag people to Beijing. Because the dairy products in Guannei are not so easy to obtain, and the taste of the Han people is slightly different from that of Manmeng, the step of "adding milk" is gradually omitted, and then the tea is also out of the game for the same reason; and according to the taste of the Han people (mainly the old Peiping people), sesame sauce, peppercorns and other accessories are added. The noodle tea we drink today is gradually taking shape.
The "Manchu-Mongolian-Han fusion theory" is traceable. Yuan Ming, a famous gourmand during the Qianlong period, once recorded the following recipe for noodle tea in the "Suiyuan Menu":
"Boil the coarse tea juice, stir-fry the noodles, add tahini, add milk, and add a pinch of salt." If there is no milk, you can add soufflé and milk crust. ”
From the content of Fangzi, it is not difficult to see that the noodle tea at that time was in the stage of "national integration". "Coarse tea" is poria tea, that is to say, the noodle tea at that time, and "tea" are still inseparable. However, the seasoning method at this time has been derived from the "tahini" (reformed) and "milk" (traditional) two ways. Either way, however, salt is indispensable. But the tea thing is salty from beginning to end. It is also worth noting that even if the noodle tea at that time was not brewed with milk, dairy products such as soufflé and milk skin were once added. Although which noodle tea shop will not do this now, but friends who like dairy products, you may wish to try it yourself when you have the opportunity - raw materials are not easy to find? Harm, go out and turn right is Taobao.
Milk Skin (Image source: Internet)
Over time, the practice of noodle tea has also changed. In the "Tianqiao Miscellaneous Songs" written at the end of the Qing Dynasty, there is such a bamboo branch: "Hot noodle tea at the beginning of the afternoon dream, dried ginger and sesame sauce must always be added." "It is enough to see that in the late Qing Dynasty, sesame sauce has become the standard of noodle tea. However, exactly what kind of noodles were used in the noodle tea of the Qing Dynasty, neither the "Suiyuan Food List" nor the "Tianqiao Miscellaneous Songs" mentioned, only the "Manchu-Mongolian-Han Fusion Theory" circled the earliest flour source as yellow rice or millet. The difference between the two crops is not clear to the fox, or the person who proposed this statement confuses the concept. Because according to the information we have found, "huang" should be the same thing as "yellow rice" (millet-like but sticky grain), and now we eat noodle tea, mostly using millet noodles. This "millet" and "millet" are also very similar, but the millet is not sticky - the more technical version is: millet japonica, millet waxy.
Japonica and waxiness, the properties are opposite, and the former is not easy to find examples in life. However, if we first understand that "glutinousness" is the smooth and sticky feeling of the foods we eat every day, such as rice balls, rice dumplings, and glutinous corn, then it is not difficult to imagine the "japonica nature" that is the complete opposite of it - so the japonica millet noodles will feel that there is a sense of coarseness in the silk lala, and the father of the fox likes to describe it as "pulling (lá) throat", which is quite image.
Despite the rough taste, to boil a bowl of good noodle tea, it is impossible to do without the millet noodles: the millet noodles, which are adjusted into a thin batter, are simmered and stirred until the viscosity is appropriate. At this time, it is poured out, drizzled with pre-diluted sesame sauce (the local practice is to use chopsticks to pick up the sesame sauce and pour it on it), and then sprinkle it with ground peanuts, sesame salt and ginger powder, and it is a bowl of noodle tea that is not surprising but full of flavor. Take a bite, the fragrance of sesame seeds and the rich aroma of peanuts are intertwined, and the spicy spice of ginger is the finishing touch. Several scents have their own amazing features, and they are not contradictory when combined together.
Drizzle tahini with chopsticks! At this time, the knowledgeable one has begun to swallow saliva (Image source: Network)
In addition to the taste, the layering of noodle tea in the texture is also very interesting. After a long period of stirring and boiling, the original coarse millet noodles became a thick millet porridge, and the touch on the tongue surface changed from "soil cloth" to "cotton and linen". In addition to this pleasant roughness, there is a tahini contrast that is smooth as silk satin. One is strong and one is soft, and the rigidity and softness are harmonious, and the commission is wonderful.
To bring such a taste contrast to the extreme, the drinking method of noodle tea is also exquisite. Old-school people know that you can't drink noodle tea with a spoon — the one who tentatively raises the chopsticks, are you here to be funny — just need to hold the bowl up to your mouth, suck it slowly, and slowly turn the rim of the bowl. When sucking, the force should be even, the rhythm should not be hurried, so that the upper layer of sesame sauce and the following millet porridge with the same speed, together are "sucked" into the mouth, in order to appreciate the golden ratio of the two tastes. And it is said that when drunk in this way, the bottom of the bowl is clean, so the traditional method of "turning to drink" is the most effective.
However, does "turning to drink" really make the noodle tea bowl "clean"? The fox has tried many times in the past two years, but it has not been successful. Not to mention that the coarse and coarse porridge will hang a layer on the wall of the bowl, and at the end of the drink, there will always be a little tahini deposited at the bottom of the bowl, whether it is necessary to scoop it out with a spoon, or rub it with fritters, burnt cakes and the like, in order to really eat dry and wipe clean. I have also observed other people in the store, even if I know that they are the "old seniors" in the early shop, I have not seen anyone who can really drink the legendary supreme realm.
Is it the misuse of individuals, or the loss of mass skills? With such confusion, the fox specifically studied the question of "how to drink noodle tea authentically", and the conclusion was surprising and gratifying: this pot, there are really people carrying ah!
Strictly speaking, it is not people who carry the pot, but the dining environment: in the past, noodle tea was mostly mobile stalls, no matter the size of the passenger flow, anyway, for convenience, the bowl was soaked in a basin of water. When the noodle tea comes out, the bowl wall is moist, and the second is that the noodle tea is hot and the bowl wall is cold. In this way, there is a jianghu legend of "tea does not stick to the bowl". So I want to know that it is difficult to reproduce such an environment now - even if there is, who wants to go to that kind of place to eat?
Moreover, even if you can't learn the legendary authentic drinking method, you don't have to feel ashamed. Because it was also when the fox checked the information this time that the fox found that in the past, the bowl would be "directly given" instead of spooning and drinking, all of them were heavy manual laborers. They don't have the habit of paying attention to it, and they don't have time to pay attention to it, naturally it is the end of the big bowl, and the practice of pouring it directly into the mouth is the most temperamental. More good people speculate that the first thing to drink like this is to eat rice flowers: no one gives them tableware, they themselves do not have time to touch the taste, they are directly holding up the broken bowl that has been given half a bowl of noodle tea by the stall owner, sucking and drinking in a circle... But this statement is a bit ridiculous, and the fox does not believe it anyway. Record this for later.
"Hanako drinking noodle tea" is not very reliable, but the saying that "the practice of turning to drink begins with manual laborers" is not impossible. It's just that this kind of eating is really not very beautiful, just to suck the noodles and whales on the bowl wall as much as possible, the sound of "hissing and hissing" emitted is already very irritable; the appearance is not elegant: holding the bowl with one hand or both hands, looking up to block half of the face, and drinking while pouring out the hand, enough busy work. Some people even pointed out that the essence of "drinking in circles" is to press your thumb on the wall of the bowl while drinking and scraping - Oh! Think about it.
In short, after summarizing the above views, fox has completely given up the idea of "drinking noodle tea out of the traditional taste". What's more, the noodle tea itself is not an image of the ten perfections of the culture of goodness. For example, the half of the bamboo branch words quoted earlier, in fact, the second half is also there. The full poem is recorded as follows:
"Hot noodle tea at the beginning of the afternoon dream, dry ginger and sesame sauce must always be added." The Lantern is afraid to cook in the pot, and the ridicule is also poor. ”
What is the relationship between noodle tea and Lantern? Why is it that I am talking about noodle tea with good manners, and then mentioning the cooking of the Lantern - it seems to be hiding some kind of witty remark, but what is it... So in the spirit of the curiosity that a foodie should have, the fox had to rummage and look for half a day to understand: Beijingers often use "noodle tea" to describe people who are confused and confused about the situation, and even scenes related to noodle tea have become the object of ridicule. For example, the allusion to the phrase "The Lantern is afraid to cook in the pot" is here: the Lantern is boiled in the noodle tea pot - bastard. Boil iron balls in the noodle tea pot - the bastard has smashed the pot. Boil the balls in the noodle tea pot - say you bastard you're still angry!
get. After all, the whole world is confused and thick to eat more, tea soup, oil tea, almond tea, sugar porridge, lotus flour and so on. It was the unfortunate face tea that became this spokesperson. What's more, there is also the risk of accidentally eating out of poverty without knowing it, and mistakenly taking the roughness of the stream of pulp sellers as an aesthetic standard. Most importantly, noodle tea is really high in calories! It is better to eat less.
Even if you go to eat, you have to pull a tie (fat)! (Image source: Internet)
At the end of the article, I also want to say a few more gossip about the "poor way to eat" (drinking in circles) - fox in a Beijing author's food review, saw him proudly say that "non-old Beijingers may not have this way of eating" (this sentence was quoted everywhere, and even on the Baidu encyclopedia "noodle tea" entry); and then remembered the previous leader's pride that "only old Tianjin people know that noodle tea should be drunk like this", and suddenly felt that the situation of "smiling and giggling in front of the face, MMP behind the back" in Beijing and Tianjin in terms of culture, I am afraid that it has long been deeply rooted.
Tianjin and Beijing's "face and heart discord", like the fox, Beijing and Tianjin amphibians have a number in mind, saying that the good point is tacit, saying that it is mean that people are difficult to dismantle. It's just that when the friends of the two cities play together, they will occasionally forget this fact because they are too high. But in fact, you should still be a little careful, so as not to accidentally step on the thunder...