North Guo Qingxi flows, Hongqiao wind objects in the eyes of the autumn, green Yangcheng Guo is Yangzhou.
More than two hundred years have passed since the construction of wang yuyang red bridge, and as a person today, I can only chant poems and envy at the same time. The repair of the March Three Shang Festival can no longer be reproduced, but this Yangzhou cuisine can make the travelers feast. It seems that no matter what happens, "food for heaven" will always be a big thing for us in the farming nation. And the spring color in Yangzhou cuisine is a beautiful taste that cannot be forgotten.
To say that Yangzhou spring in that dish, Ma Lantou? Broccoli also eats spring shoots and cabbage. I think the spring color in Yangzhou's special food "Lion's Head" is the most sufficient. why?
Because the spring colors of Yangzhou are hidden in the lion's head, in the spring, Yangzhou chefs will stew the lion's head with fat river mussels. More before and after the Qingming Dynasty, when the spring shoots and bud shoots are pointed, and the shoots are crisp and tender, the best spring shoots are selected to be chopped and stewed with lion heads. At the moment of entrance, the mouth was full of the taste of spring.
Yangzhou lion head was originally called sunflower chopping meat, sunflower meatballs, the reason why it is called lion head, because it looks like a lion, and the lion is a beast, called the king of the hundred beasts, harmonic sound has the meaning of everything as expected. The huge lion's head is packed into a special vessel, and the turquoise cabbage heart is set off, and the heart is happy when it is burned.
Stewed lion's head, its main ingredient is the best pork belly, cut into pomegranate rice grains the size of the diced into the pot, and then add ginger rice, green onion, crab powder, crab yellow, shrimp seeds, shao wine, etc. stir evenly, make a smooth round and put into the sand pot, add clear soup and spices on the fire and then move to a low heat to simmer for more than two hours until crispy.
Stewed lion's head is crisp and tender, melting in the mouth, and the same dish elsewhere is incomparable. And this success or failure factors have three: one is the fat and lean combination of pork belly, roughly one to one, so as to ensure tenderness, the current people also add a certain amount of water chestnut diced and other refreshing ingredients, the taste is better; the second is to cut the pork belly into cubes instead of chopping into puree, a "cut" word is not a day's knife skill, so as to ensure crispness, which is also different from the northern meatballs; the third is to repeatedly beat before making rounds, so that the diced meat and accessories are fully kneaded to ensure that the stewing process is not scattered and not broken, so that a "perfect" lion's head can be presented.
Playing anchovies [Qing] Wu Jiaji
Beat anchovies for use.
The bow of the ship was still under the net, and the commander had already sent the stagecoach to send it.
Cherry into the market shoots taste good, this year's anchovies are not early.
The viewer suddenly rejoiced in color, and the jade scales jumped out of the river.
The sky is long overdue, and the ice filler protects the flying horse.
You don't see the Three Thousand Jintai Iron Urn Road, but the time limit is twenty-two.
When it comes to spring in the Yangzhou food feast, there is actually one dish that stands out the most, that is, cherry anchovy.
"Yangzhou Bamboo Branch Words" has: "Qinghe weather is warm and breezy, take off the cotton clothes in early April." Sell wine next to the celebration ceremony, and buy anchovies at the cherry market. Sentence, at that time, the Yangzhou fallen literati, although penniless, but the habits of the old food are difficult to change, and they do not hesitate to pawn clothes and sell wine to taste the fresh anchovies in the river. Anchovies are a rare river fresh, and every spring, anchovies go up the river to spawn. Anchovies are very delicate, hanging on the net out of the water is dead, the ancients thought that "anchovies hang on the net and do not move, protect their scales", as a gentleman loves its reputation. The scales of the anchovy are very beautiful, and the Qing Dynasty Yangzhou Cuihua Street specializes in jewelry, and the craftsmen make the anchovy fish scales into jewelry and insert them into women's hair buns, called Cuidian.
The time of the anchovy market is the fourth month of the lunar calendar when the cherry is listed, and the so-called "cherry season with anchovy" Ma Yue, a Salt Merchant who lives in Yangzhou, joins his teacher and friends to chant anchovies: "Seafood comes in April, and the festival is counted in Jianggao." The wind borrows the east wind, and the tide inherits the letter. At that time, the market price of anchovies was high. Sand head runs through the willows, and the street entrance is accompanied by cherries. Handsome puffer fish than. "Puffer fish is delicious and highly poisonous, can kill people, and there is a saying of "desperately eating pufferfish". And the taste of anchovies is more delicious and non-toxic than puffer fish, no wonder the children of the rich in the past, the fallen literati pawned clothes and also wanted to taste fresh.
Song Ren Chen Zao's "Early Spring" poem Yun: "An pomegranate flower scarlet blood, cool lotus high leaf Bitiantian." The anchovy entering the market pufferfish is already a wheat day in Jiangnan. "In April, the pomegranate flowers bloom red like fire, and if the anchovies are lined with cherries with lotus leaves, their color is vermilion and blue, as delicate as emerald agate, and their color is eye-catching and makes people have an appetite."
Helplessly, people can no longer eat cherry anchovies, domestic anchovies have completely lost the delicious wild taste, so nowadays we can only pursue "more poisonous" pufferfish, and Yangzhou is the right time.
The first of the river fresh is the puffer fish. Puffer fish, a creature of the sea, traces its flow from the mouth of the Yangtze River to the Yangtze River section, where it grows, develops and inhabits. The pufferfish has a small head and a large belly, and the ovaries, blood and liver are highly toxic, and they have very thin spines.
Historically, Yangzhou has always had the tradition of catching puffer fish and eating puffer fish. Because the taste of puffer fish is extremely delicious, since ancient times, there has been a saying that "if you eat a mouthful of puffer fish meat, you will never smell the fish in the world" and "when the puffer fish is, you can't count the fish and shrimp". Although the puffer fish is delicious, but the food is risky, there are also early tasters who cannot resist the temptation of delicious taste to try to "eat", so that whenever the puffer fish is listed before the Qingming Festival, diners "desperately" eat the puffer fish.
There is another saying called "plattering" to eat pufferfish. In the process of slaughtering puffer fish, in addition to carefully removing toxic internal organs, it is necessary to carefully and carefully clean the blood in the body of the puffer fish, and the cleaner the washing, the less the risk of eating the puffer fish.
Braised pork and white braised are the basic methods of cooking puffer fish, so in Yangzhou, two major characteristics have been formed, namely white roast represented by Yizheng and red boiled by Jiangdu. White roasted puffer fish, soup color milk white, thick juice, delicious and delicious, with turquoise moss, bamboo shoot slices, etc., appetite suddenly opened. Braised puffer fish is completely different, on the basis of maintaining the original characteristics of puffer fish, supplemented by a variety of condiments to color, rich soup, attractive color, grass or small green vegetables with the bottom, both visual enjoyment, but also a feast for the sense of taste. The Ju Puffer Fish in Yangzhou Lion Building is very good and can make the gourmets feast.
If you're afraid of that mouthful of poisonous milk, the willow-branched osmanthus fish of the Qingming Dynasty is also timely.
Since the Song and Yuan dynasties, Yangzhou has had the custom of planting willows in the Qingming Dynasty, which can eliminate disasters and avoid disasters. Legend has it that in the Tang Dynasty, Emperor Xuanzong of Tang and Emperor Zhongzong of Tang gave the group of courtiers a willow circle at the edge of the Weishui River, thinking that "the willow one stays also", which can avoid insect plagues and stay healthy in the human world forever. Yangzhou Yiyang, Sui Emperor planted willows. In the spring, the willow bay head, the peach blossom water rises, and the cinnamon fish is the freshest. Bian Shoumin's "Miscellaneous Album" has a poem: Spring rises in Yangliu Bay, south of the river, and mandarin fish splashes between green waves. I don't know if it is a Xiangjiang species, but it also carries Xiangfei tear bamboo spots.
Mandarin characters pass "gui", harmonic "gui". Yangzhou people call the osmanthus fish, the fish has spots, the osmanthus fish to eat the small fish in the river for food, so the fish meat is very tender and delicious, the so-called "peach blossom flowing water mandarin fish fat", is still the subject of the painter's favorite painting. In the old days, fishermen tied willow branches to the gills of laurel fish, or tied with straw, Li Futang composed the poem "Nian Nian Shun Sui Tu":
As soon as the river fish came to pierce the rice ears, the rice fish and many people went smoothly. I hope that the years and years of life will sometimes be fed from ancient times. No frolic is only the pleasure of farmers, and there is no cure for the ancient times.
The fish yu also means that there is more than one year every year. Yangzhou is the hometown of fish and rice, rice and rice soup fish. Skewering willow branches and rice spikes on a plate on the gills is famous and easy to turn over. The willow branch rice spike has the ink painting meaning of Yangzhou Eight Monsters, which is matched with the onion, ginger and garlic paste, and the green and white are picturesque, which is really a good food color.
After eating big fish and big meat, the appearance of Wensi tofu is like a beauty covering her face, and the charm is long.
The Wensi monk in the lower courtyard of Yangzhou Tianning Temple is good at making tofu soup, known as "Wensi tofu". He is also good at making sweet porridge, Wensi monk Character Xifu, work in poetry, good at seeing people, in Zhishang Village built a bullet finger pavilion, one of the eight monsters of Yangzhou Gao Xiang composed "Bullet Finger Pavilion Map" and inscribed a poem:
The lotus circle Ciyun is on the board, and the autumn wind fence falls on the Zen pass. Climb the stairs to hear the sound of the city far away, leaning on the sill to spy on the birds dreaming of idleness. The sky is as bright as water, and the dense shade trees are as cold as mountains. The east is more envious of the nunnery, and the restaurant poetry is still in the past.
Today, Yangzhou's chefs are breathtakingly impressed by the excellence of Wensi tofu and the further level of knife work. Yechun and Lu's old mansion's Wensi tofu are good, you can taste the essence of Huaiyang cuisine.
Having said that there are so many delicacies, what is the most representative of Yangzhou's cuisine? It is not a three-headed feast, nor is it Wensi tofu, nor is it a delicate dish in Huaiyang cuisine, but the most grounded and most pyrotechnic - Yangzhou old goose.
I ate the old goose in Yangzhou because I rushed to catch the train, and I didn't have time to eat, so I bought a quarter of the old goose at the roadside stall, thinking about the time for the old wine. Unexpectedly, this unintentional act made me fall in love with the old goose of Yangzhou from then on.
Yangzhou people have a long history of herding geese, and the lush land of water and grass is most suitable for the growth of geese, and has cultivated an excellent breed of "Yangzhou goose". Nowadays, in the countryside of Yangzhou, whether it is in front of the house, in the field, or by the pond and the river, you can see the figure of the goose.
Yangzhou goose has less fat and delicious meat, which is deeply loved by people. Whether it is a wedding or funeral event, or a gathering of relatives and friends during the New Year's Festival, there must be a variety of dishes prepared with goose as ingredients, and it is no exaggeration to say that everyone will do it and everyone will like to eat it.
Yangzhou people are very particular about eating geese, and can make different delicacies in different ways. Among them, brine goose is the most common, and there are stalls selling brine goose everywhere in the streets and alleys. Three friends and five friends gathered, the family suddenly visited, the housewives did not hurry to buy a saltwater goose from the stall, with some dishes, a sumptuous and decent hospitality feast was presented between the host and the guest. Especially in the hot summer, another cold beer will enhance the appetite and cool the mouth.
Yangzhou brine goose is made of century-old brine stew, salty and moderate, delicate meat, is a good appetizer, long time to eat. Yangzhou people eat brine goose pay attention to the collocation of parts, and the clever combination gives people a different taste enjoyment.
Yangzhou old goose in all parts of the importance of the old iron, the combination of gizzard liver, good taste, is the favorite of children; the best match for the next meal is claw wings, steamed goose paws. According to yangzhou people, claws and wings are "living meat", "old Yangzhou" is particularly favorite; if you are in wine, you must choose the most delicious head and neck, the huge goose head with a long neck chopped into pieces, the brake is tempting, full of taste, a mouthful of old wine, satisfied; the most cost-effective collocation is the carcass, chopped into large pieces, full of mouth meat, cheap and beautiful, very affordable.
Every time you go to Yangzhou, look at the old geese in the stalls, the figures in the queue, full of human fireworks, matching this fireworks in March, there is a taste. Therefore, friends who come to Yangzhou, it is recommended to taste the taste of this human world, a mouthful of old goose, a sip of old wine, will make you feel that this immortal world is just like this.