Sponsored by Comrade Mao Zedong, the Memorial Hall of the Former Site of the Peasant Movement Training Institute, the Suzhou Silk Museum, and the Foshan Nanhai District Museum, the "Splendid Huaguan - China's Three Famous Brocades and Guangdong Xiangyun Yarn Cultural Exhibition" began to be exhibited in the Dacheng Hall of the Memorial Hall of the Agricultural Movement Institute. The exhibition is co-organized with the strength of the three museums, with a total of 76 cultural relics/exhibits (sets), and the exhibition will last until April 6.
Shu Jin, Song Jin and Yun Jin are the three famous brocades in China, which are three important milestones in the history of silk in China, all of which were included in the first batch of national intangible cultural heritage list in 2006 and the World UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2009. Xiangyun yarn is an ancient dyed fabric produced in the Pearl River Delta region of Guangdong, which is a unique cultural treasure of Guangdong, and the dyeing and finishing technology of Xiangyun yarn was included in the second batch of national intangible cultural heritage list in 2008. China is the hometown of silk, and the three famous brocades and xiangyun yarn are important representatives in the history of China's silk development.
Shu Jin
"Five-star out of the East to benefit China" brocade arm (Eastern Han Dynasty imitation)
Anle Jin (Han imitation parts)
Shu brocade has the longest history among the three major brocades, rising in the Warring States, flourishing in the Han and Tang Dynasties, and is named after the shu land. Its products and skills were sold to India, Persia and other places through the Southwest Silk Road, as well as to the countries of Central and West Asia, up to the Mediterranean coast, which played a positive role in the cultural exchange between China and the West.
Technically, the early Shu brocade was dominated by multiple warp silk flowers, and the pioneering technique left a brilliant page in the history of ancient silk in China, and influenced the development of silk weaving technology in later generations. After the Tang Dynasty, wei brocade appeared, and the varieties became increasingly rich, with patterns such as lattice patterns, lotus flowers, turtle shell flowers, beads, birds, and beasts. During the Song and Yuan dynasties, its patterns include Qingfeng Nianjin, Lantern Brocade, Panqiu, Cuichi Lion, Skylark, as well as Seocho Crane, Hundred Flowers Peacock, Yinan Hundred Flowers, Ruyi Peony and so on. After the Qing Dynasty, Shu brocade and ancient Shu brocade have undergone great changes in fabric structure, and the current Shu brocade is characterized by the brocade structure of warp satin pattern and multiple weft threads, representing varieties such as Yuehua brocade, rain silk brocade, square brocade and so on.
Song Jin
Navy blue ground flower tree tangled branches chrysanthemum pattern Song Jin (Qing imitation parts)
Orange pan tassel four seasons floral pattern Song Brocade (Ming imitation parts)
Song brocade refers to the Song Dynasty developed by the Song Dynasty to show the same time of warp and weft brocade with Song Dynasty artistic style, known for the Song Dynasty Suzhou characteristic brocade, and later woven with this as a feature of the brocade is also known as "Song-style brocade" and "antique Song brocade", now collectively known as Song brocade.
According to the exhibition, the origin of Song brocade can be traced back to the Spring and Autumn Period, and the nobles of the Wu kingdom located in Jiangnan have used brocade in large quantities in their lives. In the Tang Dynasty, with the improvement of silk weaving skills, twill weft brocade appeared from the twill warp brocade to show flowers with weft lines, which could weave more complex patterns than warp brocade, so it prevailed. With the southward migration of Emperor Gaozong of song, the political, economic and cultural center of the country gradually shifted to the Jiangnan region, suzhou set up a brocade institute, the production of brocade inherited the Tang Dynasty brocade weaving technology, the formation of a unique new variety - Song brocade, and gradually developed, brilliant in the Ming and Qing dynasties, becoming one of the three famous brocades of Chinese silk.
Brocade
Big Red Ground Phoenix Wearing Peony Pattern Library Brocade Piece Sample (Modern)
Yunjin, originating from the Six Dynasties and flourishing in the Ming and Qing dynasties, is a brocade that has developed and matured by collecting the essence of the crafts of the past dynasties after the Shu Brocade and the Song Jin, and drawing on the techniques of various related processes.
Since Yunjin is mainly used as imperial supplies, it pays attention to the excellence of material craftsmanship, so that its fabric quality has reached the peak of traditional Chinese silk weaving technology. Its texture is tight and thick, and the silk surface is named for its rich ornamentation and brilliant colors, just like the colorful and changing clouds in the sky.
Although Yunjin is produced in the "three major weaving bureaus" of Jiangning, Suzhou and Hangzhou, the Jiangning guanying weaving, which was founded in Nanjing, has a large production volume in the official camp and the people, and was once one of the pillars of ancient Jiangning silk production, so it is mostly crowned in the name of "Nanjing Yunjin". In addition to being used by the imperial court for official governments and rewards, Yunjin is also exported overseas and to Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang, Qinghai, Gansu, Tibet and other places; the varieties are diverse, especially the makeup satin has a high scientific and technological connotation in terms of pattern, color, flower picking and weaving technology.
Guangdong Xiangyun yarn on the same stage "competition show"
Victory pattern incense cloud yarn short-sleeved diagonal cardigan
Xiangyun yarn, also known as salient yarn, the surface of the black smooth, similar to painted and perforated small flowers of the silk fabric, because of the wearing of the garment will rustle when the action is named "Xiangyun yarn", and later called "Xiangyun yarn" in its harmonic sound. According to relevant literature, the term "Xiangyun Yarn" was first found in the "Huaying Tongyu" re-edited in the Year of Qing Xianfeng Gengshen (1860), and the term "Xiangyun Yarn" was first recorded in the Qing Dynasty manuscript "Material Intention Pipe Peep" in the seventh year of Qing Tongzhi (1868).
The intricate production process and special silk texture make Xiangyun yarn enjoy the reputation of "soft gold". The difference between Xiangyun yarn and ordinary silk fabric is that the longer it is worn, the more attractive it is. At the beginning, the fabric is black and smooth, and when it is worn, it will have a chemical reaction with the body, which will slowly fade the coating and reveal the brown and yellow background, and the more it is worn, the more oily and shiny it is, as if it has vitality.
Due to the "Splendid Crown" exhibition, the Agricultural Lecture Institute held the "Visiting the Brocade Culture Exhibition and Photography for the Spring Festival"
The former site of the Memorial Hall of the Agricultural Lecture Institute is the Panyu Xuegong. Panyu Xuegong was originally a Confucius Temple, founded in the third year of the Ming Dynasty Hongwu (1370), is the first batch of national key cultural relics protection units, the Qing Dynasty renamed Panyu Xuegong, for a group of red wall yellow tiles, brick and wood structure of the ancient building complex, sitting north facing south, from south to north by Panchi, Arch Bridge, Dacheng Gate, Dacheng Hall, Chongsheng Temple and two corridors on both sides, Minglun Hall and so on. The reporter learned at the exhibition site that the memorial hall also attracts tourists to visit and take photos in Hanfu on weekdays.
Because of the "Splendid Huaguan - China's Three Famous Brocades and Guangdong Xiangyun Yarn Cultural Exhibition", the Agricultural Lecture Institute launched the "Visiting brocade cultural exhibition and Spring Festival New Year photography". Visitors who sign up for the event are advised to wear Hanfu in red, orange, yellow and other festive colors; it is recommended to bring festive ornaments and props (such as couplets, Fuzi stickers, gold yuanbao, lanterns, firecrackers, gourds, goldfish, etc.).
Written by: Nandu reporter Xiao Yang
Correspondent: Sui Wen Guang Travel Xuan
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