The mature Nanjing Yunjin IP is incubating.
From joining hands with internationally renowned fashion designer Lawrence Xu to exhibit a series of haute couture clothing at the "Nanjing ZhouyunJin Show" in Milan, Italy, to the beautiful and practical Nanjing Yunjin new cultural creation such as real gold makeup brooch, Hanfu DIY handmade purse, blue dream mobile phone bag, etc. to become a must-have for Yunjin enthusiasts, and then to the joint launch of a series of products with clothing brands and online games... In recent years, with the market-oriented transformation of Nanjing Yunjin Research Institute Co., Ltd. (hereinafter referred to as "Yunjin Research Institute"), Nanjing Yunjin, which is "inches of gold", is integrating into people's lives with a new look.
Yunjin desktop ornament Courtesy of Yunjin Research Institute
Unique ingenuity
"Jiangnan is good, the machine is grasping the heavens, the peacock makeup is cloudy, the ice silkworm spits out the phoenix and the fog is empty, and the new kind of small tuanlong." The fabric depicted by the Ming Dynasty poet Wu Meicun in "Wangjiang South" is Nanjing Yunjin. As a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, Nanjing's brocade weaving technique has a history of more than 1,600 years.
Jian Mingwei, director of Nanjing Yunjin Museum and general manager of Yunjin Research Institute Co., Ltd., introduced that Yunjin has been used by the royal family since its birth, and its weaving process is a complex system engineering, including design, flower picking, raw material preparation, machine making, weaving and other five major processes, from materials to talent training, to weaving technology, each link determines the value of Yunjin. "Two Yunjin textile workers sat on the wooden loom of Dahualou to work for a day, using valuable materials such as peacock feathers, silk, and real gold thread, and through a complex weaving process, they could weave 5 to 8 centimeters of Yunjin." Jian Mingwei said.
Nanjing Yunjin cultural and creative products born under such a process naturally also have a group of loyal fans. The Yuanxian offline flagship store of Yunjin Research Institute is located in Yunjin Museum. In the flagship store, all kinds of Yunjin clothing products, handicrafts and cultural and creative surroundings are dazzling. Ms. Zhu, a citizen of Nanjing, said that almost every product in the store is on her aesthetic point, and many Yunjin cultural and creative products are both beautiful and practical, whether they are bought for themselves or given to friends.
Yunjin Research Institute Marketing Department Supervisor Wang Chengcheng said that visitors to the museum will visit the store, to the store sold the hottest butterfly brooch as an example, only pure handmade, real gold thread weaving is very attractive to consumers, and the biggest difficulty is in the "positioning of the flower", each brooch before doing is the butterfly style first, and then on the basis of Yunjin, plus nails, whether it is raw materials or process level, are very valuable, can sell more than 300 pieces a month. According to reports, the current annual sales of the flagship store have reached 38 million yuan.
Butterfly brooch Courtesy of Yunjin Institute
Co-brand innovation
To some extent, the preciousness of all aspects has also caused the situation of Nanjing Yunjinqu high and low. Since being acquired by Jinhong Fashion Group Co., Ltd. in 2015, Yunjin Research Institute has been committed to market-oriented transformation, but the effect is not obvious. Jian Mingwei admitted that before 2020, Yunjin Research Institute has been losing money for many years, and a deeper transformation is imminent.
In July this year, the popular 3D dress-up mobile game "Shine Warm and Warm" reached a linkage with the Yunjin Research Institute and launched a Yunjin Duan instrument set. In the game, it is set up to accumulate points for doing tasks in exchange for sets, event plot introductions, question and answer tasks, etc., for players to popularize the knowledge of science and technology. In addition to the game, a special edition of yunjin activities was also produced, recording the whole process from the field learning of the yunjin museum to the in-game production of suits. At the same time, the two sides also exhibited the Yunjin Duan instrument set that lasted 8 months of weaving on the line of the Yunjin Museum.
Gao Wenzhi, chief Hanfu designer of Yunjin Research Institute, is the designer of this set of Hanfu, she introduced that the set of "Shine Warm and Warm" and the Yunjin Research Institute, the shape and version refer to the Green Weave Gold Makeup Flower Of the Ming Dynasty Xiao duanxian Empress in the Collection of the Yunjin Museum Y-sleeved Yssa Dragon Persimmon Satin Stand Collar Female Jacket, skillfully using the same color dark and light halo technique and a large number of pieces of gold thread, the system is exquisite, the weaving is delicate, reflecting the high level of brocade craftsmanship. "We also innovate the pattern in the design process, so that the work can be closer to life."
In addition, the "Three Buddhas" customized for Nanjing Niushoushan Cultural Tourism Zone has become the cultural symbol of the scenic spot, and the Nanjing citizen card "Jinling Tong" has launched two sets of Cloud Brocade theme cards on the dragon ball and persimmon... Nanjing Yunjin is entering people's lives in another way.
Jian Mingwei said that in addition to the materials, the cultural connotation of the Nanjing Yunjin pattern is equally profound. Therefore, in the process of co-branding with any brand, we should pay attention to the refinement of culture, and find the core elements of each brand, and on this basis, carry out secondary creation, so that the works of the heart can be truly accepted by the market. "We also deeply cultivate 'intangible cultural heritage + technology', and use scientific and technological means to reduce the cost of weaving." In this way, traditional handmade fabrics maintain the quality of 'inch brocade', 'intangible cultural heritage + technology' supplements the mid-end market, further help the industrialization of Yunjin, and design co-branded works make Nanjing Yunjin popular in various fields. The mature Nanjing Yunjin IP is incubating. ”
Nanjing citizen card "Jinling Tong" Yunjin joint name Yunjin Research Institute courtesy of the picture
Perpetual legacy
Whether it is to maintain ingenuity or to jointly brand with major brands, its ultimate purpose is to make Nanjing Yunjin better inherited. Jian Mingwei said that the marketization of Nanjing Yunjin will not only realize its own hematopoiesis, but also better inherit this intangible cultural heritage of mankind.
Take the cooperation with "Shine Warm and Warm" as an example, Ding Ranran is a loyal player of "Shine Warm and Warm", after the release of the Yunjin suit, she quickly completed the task and received the prize, and then she watched a documentary about Nanjing Yunjin online, in October, she went to the Yunjin Museum to see the exhibition offline, and also took the cooperation between "Shine Warm and Warm" and Nanjing Yunjin as a case and wrote it into her own paper.
Self-hematopoiesis is inseparable from the support of internal talents. Yang Jiyuan, a national textile cultural relics restoration expert and director of the cultural relics restoration department of yunjin research institute, has been engaged in product design work for many years, she said that today's yunjin products are a complete set of production chain, in the design, drawing transformation, Shangda Hualou wood loom and other aspects of the need for professional talents, in the design of Yunjin related products, she will combine her own professional advantages in cultural relics restoration, in the process of restoring the skills of the ancients to the greatest extent, add the aesthetic taste of modern people, so that traditional crafts conform to the current aesthetics.
Jian Mingwei said that although the Yunjin Research Institute is getting younger and younger in the employment of personnel, but this also puts forward higher requirements for young employees who are influenced by fashion culture, to design works with connotation, it must sink to the front line, therefore, the company's training courses will clearly require designers to sink a line, truly understand the connotation of Yunjin, and then start to design works. "Only in this way can we cultivate new craftsmen and let Yunjin get a better inheritance."
Source: China Travel News Client (Author: Tai Zijun Editor: Fan Chaohui Wang Ying)
Editor-in-Charge: White Tea Fruit