Text/Yangcheng Evening News all-media reporter Huang Zhuhui Correspondent Sui Wenguang Travel Propaganda
Photo/Courtesy of the organizer
From January 6th to April 6th, the "Splendid Huaguan - China's Three Famous Brocades and Guangdong Xiangyun Yarn Culture Exhibition" was exhibited at the Dacheng Hall of the Memorial Hall of the Agricultural Lecture Institute located on Zhongshan 4th Road, Yuexiu District, Guangzhou.
The exhibition is sponsored by Comrade Mao Zedong Tonkins movement training institute site memorial hall (hereinafter referred to as "Agricultural Movement Institute Memorial Hall"), Suzhou Silk Museum, Foshan Nanhai District Museum, a total of 76 cultural relics /exhibits (sets), so that the audience can appreciate the beauty of "splendid crown". (For more news, please pay attention to Yangcheng Pie pai.ycwb.com)
The exhibition site of "Splendid Crown" exhibition
Ancient Chinese silk technology was formed as early as the Shang Dynasty and gradually matured, creating the world's most advanced textile science and technology. In the history of the development of Chinese silk varieties for thousands of years, Shu Jin, Song Jin and Yun Jin are the three famous brocades that have the greatest influence in the long history and have been handed down to this day.
They are three important milestones in the history of Chinese silk, all of which were included in the country's first list of intangible cultural heritage in 2006.
Xiangyun yarn is an ancient dyed fabric produced in the Pearl River Delta region of Guangdong. As a unique cultural treasure of Guangdong, the dyeing and finishing technology of Xiangyun yarn was included in the second batch of national intangible cultural heritage list in 2008.
This exhibition is jointly held with the strength of the three museums. Since its establishment, Suzhou Silk Museum has been committed to the research and inheritance of ancient silk and brocade. The South China Sea Museum has long carefully displayed the ancient and modern evolution and craftsmanship characteristics of Xiangyun Yarn. The former site of the Agricultural Lecture Institute was originally the Panyu Xuegong Palace in the Ming and Qing dynasties, with a long literary rhyme. The organizers expressed the hope that the audience will view the exhibits in this century-old school palace, better understand the historical origin and craftsmanship technology of China's three famous brocades and Xiangyun yarn, and carry forward China's traditional silk culture.
【Zhiduo D】
First, Shu Jin
Shu brocade has the longest history among the three major brocades, rising in the Warring States, flourishing in the Han and Tang Dynasties, and is named after the shu land. Its products and skills were sold to India, Persia and other places through the Southwest Silk Road, as well as to the countries of Central and West Asia, up to the Mediterranean coast, which played a positive role in the cultural exchange between China and the West.
Technically, the early Shu brocade was dominated by multiple warp silk flowers, and the pioneering technique left a brilliant page in the history of ancient silk in China, and influenced the development of silk weaving technology in later generations.
"Five-star out of the East to benefit China" brocade arm (Eastern Han Dynasty imitation)
After the Tang Dynasty, wei brocade appeared, and the varieties became increasingly rich, and the patterns were plaid patterns, lotus flowers, turtle shell flowers, beads, birds, beasts, etc., which were very rich. During the Song and Yuan dynasties, its patterns include Qingfeng Nianjin, Lantern Brocade, Panqiu, Cuichi Lion, Skylark, as well as Seocho Crane, Hundred Flowers Peacock, Yinan Hundred Flowers, Ruyi Peony and so on.
After the Qing Dynasty, Shu brocade and ancient Shu brocade have undergone great changes in fabric structure, so now people talk about Shu brocade with warp satin as the ground, multiple weft lines showing flowers of the brocade structure as the main feature, representative varieties are yuehua brocade, rain silk brocade, square brocade and so on.
2. Song Jin
Song brocade refers to the Song Dynasty developed by the Song Dynasty to the warp and weft at the same time with the Song Dynasty artistic style of the tapestry, to the Song Dynasty Suzhou characteristics of the brocade and famous, and later woven with this as the feature of the brocade is also known as "Song-style brocade", "antique Song brocade", now collectively known as Song brocade.
Orange pan tassel four seasons floral pattern Song Brocade (Ming imitation parts)
The origins of Song brocade can be traced back to the Spring and Autumn Period, and the wu nobles in Jiangnan have already used brocade in large quantities in their lives. In the Tang Dynasty, with the improvement of silk weaving skills, twill weft brocade appeared from the twill warp brocade to show flowers with weft lines, which could weave more complex patterns than warp brocade, so it prevailed.
With the southward migration of Emperor Gaozong of song, the political, economic and cultural center of the country gradually shifted to the Jiangnan region, suzhou set up a brocade institute, the production of brocade inherited the Tang Dynasty brocade weaving technology, the formation of a unique new variety - Song brocade, and gradually developed, brilliant in the Ming and Qing dynasties, becoming one of the three famous brocades of Chinese silk.
3. Yunjin
Yunjin, originating from the Six Dynasties and flourishing in the Ming and Qing dynasties, is a brocade that has developed and matured by collecting the essence of the crafts of the past dynasties after the Shu Brocade and the Song Jin, and drawing on the techniques of various related processes.
Because it is mainly used as imperial supplies, it pays attention to the excellence of material craftsmanship, so that its fabric quality has reached the peak of traditional Chinese silk weaving technology. Its texture is tight and thick, and the silk surface is named for its rich ornamentation and brilliant colors, just like the colorful and changing clouds in the sky.
Red satin wearing branches of the ocean chrysanthemum pattern makeup flower (modern)
Although Yunjin is produced in the "three major weaving bureaus" of Jiangning, Suzhou and Hangzhou, the Jiangning official weaving, which was founded in Nanjing, has a large production volume in the official camp and the people, and was once one of the pillars of ancient Jiangning silk production, so it is mostly crowned in the name of "Nanjing Yunjin".
In addition to being used by the court for the government and rewards, Yunjin is also exported to overseas and Mongolia, Xinjiang, Qinghai, Gansu, Tibet and other places, and gradually diversified, especially the makeup and satin has a high scientific and technological connotation in terms of pattern, color, flower picking and weaving technology.
Fourth, Xiangyun yarn
Xiangyun yarn, also known as salient yarn, the surface of the black smooth, similar to painted and perforated small flowers of the silk fabric, because of the wearing of the garment will rustle when the action is named "Xiangyun yarn", and later called "Xiangyun yarn" in its harmonic sound.
According to relevant literature, the term "Xiangyun Yarn" was first found in the "Huaying Tongyu" re-edited in the Year of Qing Xianfeng Gengshen (1860), and the term "Xiangyun Yarn" was first recorded in the Qing Dynasty manuscript "Material Intention Pipe Peep" in the seventh year of Qing Tongzhi (1868).
Republic of China victory pattern xiangyun yarn short-sleeved diagonal cardigan
The intricate production process and special silk texture make Xiangyun yarn enjoy the reputation of "soft gold". The difference between Xiangyun yarn and ordinary silk fabrics is that it is like a fine wine, and the longer it is worn, the more attractive it is.
At the beginning, the fabric is black and smooth, and when it is worn, it will have a chemical reaction with the body, which will slowly fade the coating and reveal the brown and yellow background, and the more it is worn, the more oily and shiny it is, as if it has vitality.
Source | Yangcheng Evening News Yangcheng Pie
Editor-in-charge | Li Li