Author: Ran Xiaobao| Editor: Left Taste Right Taste | Source: Left Taste Right Taste
Explore the cuisine, discover the cuisine, and document Jinan from a grassroots perspective.
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Lu cuisine
The first of the four major cuisines of the Han Chinese
The foundation of the eight major Chinese cuisines
The basis of Chinese cooking
Emphasizes fresh and crispy tenderness
Pay attention to the strict heat
It is the most difficult dish in the world
He once sat firmly in the first chair of high-end catering in the Ming and Qing dynasties
Lu cuisine - milk soup pu cabbage
"Milk soup pu cai" - Lu cuisine representative famous food, but also "the first soup dish" reputation, the soup is milky white, the dish is crisp and tender, the entrance is elegant. The reputation of Lu cuisine stems from Confucius's exquisiteness of "not getting tired of eating, not tired of being fine" and the fusion of ingredients and cooking techniques between the north and the south. The hanging soup used is the most exquisite and mysterious technique in Lu cuisine, and the milk soup pu cai does not match people's habitual impression of Lu cuisine. Foreigners come to Shandong, if you inquire about specialties, nine times out of ten will be recommended to cut the hard, use the whole material, the color of the strong color of the nine-turn large intestine or stir-fried waist flower. For a long time, some guests with light tastes have the impression of Lu cuisine as "oily, salty and greasy". This "small and fresh" dish of milk soup is difficult to match with the above impression. Experts hope that through this "milk soup pu cai on the tip of the tongue", Lu cai can take off the hat that was once "oily, salty and greasy" as soon as possible and regain the love of the public.
Jinan people love to eat pu cai customs for a long time, with poetic charm of the beautiful white and tender pu cai is one of the traditional flavor of Jinan famous dishes.
Jinan cuisine pays more attention to the use of broth seasoning, which is what people call "clear soup" and "milk soup" seasoning. The "milk soup puddle" made of milk soup and puddle is milky white, and the crisp and tender flavor of the puddle is multiplied, and the entrance is light and delicious.
"Choose the most tender pu core and make a milk soup pu vegetable from Jinan." Coupled with the foil of milk soup, the fresh flavor is multiplied..." On the evening of May 9, 2014, "China on the Tip of the Tongue 2" (hereinafter referred to as "Tip of the Tongue 2") aired the fourth episode of "Home cooking", from kimchi to sugar water, the protagonist of this episode lacks gorgeous appearance and exquisite techniques, and some are just the familiar tastes that guide the direction of hometown. This is also the first appearance of Lu Cai in the "Tip of the Tongue" series. Lu cuisine is the pride of Shandong people. Speaking of Lu cuisine, it is understood that in the old Beijing of that year, the limelight completely overwhelmed other factions in the eight major cuisines, especially some famous restaurants opened at the end of the Qing Dynasty such as Huixian Hall and Dongxing Lou, most of which operated Lu cuisine.
The key to the milk soup is "milk soup", which is made of pork belly, pork knuckle and other ingredients, the color is like mutton fat jade, the taste is rich, and the refreshing pu cabbage can be regarded as a superior soup.
Pu cabbage itself has no umami taste, but some fragrance, taste more crisp, some like onion white, chew a bite of creaky; if the puddle is not tender enough, let you pull off the front teeth can not help it.
When cooking, it must be cooked with a thick and thick soup to make the puddle taste fresh. Pu cabbage should not be boiled in the soup for a long time to maintain its tender characteristics.
The finished milk soup cabbage, white jade yellowish color, sometimes with a little green. Scoop down a spoonful and have a rich ingredient such as shredded ham and shiitake mushrooms at the base. Smell it carefully, a burst of fragrance. Anyone who has eaten it will be full of praise.
The main ingredient of milk soup pu cai is pu cai, in addition to Jinhua ham, shiitake mushrooms and qingshui shoots, after making the color is milky white and elegant, the dish is crisp and tender, and the soup is umami, known as the crown of Jinan soup dishes.
Twilight spring has passed, and summer in Jinan is coming.
Early summer, is the most beautiful season in Jinan Province, the spring water began to gush and confluence, the water of Daming Lake will be clear and light green, the green willows around the lake are hanging like willows like golden threads, the lake is full of lotus lotus, the green lotus leaves quietly bloom between the lotus bones of the pavilion, the flowers are thin and beautiful, not as warm as in the middle of summer, shy, clustered, floating with faint incense. Suddenly, I remembered the Song Dynasty poet Yang Wanli's poem "Xiao Chi": the spring is silent and the water is silent, and the shade of the trees loves the water. The little lotus only showed its sharp horns, and there were dragonflies standing on its head.
What a beautiful picture.
In this early summer in Jinan, in addition to the beautiful scenery, the most anticipated on the tip of the tongue is pu cai.
In the past, Daming Lake was huge, when the lake was prosperous, it was flat and swallowed, and the smoke waves were vast, so people praised Jinan for "four lotus flowers and three willows, one city of mountains and half a city lake". Between the lotus flowers of Daming Lake, at that time, there were really pu cai white lotus roots and beautiful vegetables, "Jinan Quick Overview" Zeng Yun "Daming Lake's pu cai, its shape is like zi bai, its taste is like bamboo shoots, planted all over the lake, for the treasures of plant dishes in several northern provinces." The current Daming Lake, south and Wulongtan were cut off by Baobei Road, and the north has been filled in as Beiyuan Town, and this "Half City Lake" has long ceased to exist. Fortunately, Jinan's pu cabbage can still be eaten, but most of them are planted and picked in ponds along the Yellow River.
Pu cai edible, began in two weeks, the Book of Poetry once said "its tender why Wei bamboo shoots and pu", Nan Qi Xie Xie "Yong Pu" poem Yiyun: "away from the water pu, the water scattered into beads, the first sprout carved trick, twilight pepper deep". The early summer festival is the best time for puddish. Its tender roots, white and crispy, are excellent for cooking. Picked peeled to take the tender stem, raw food on the fragrant throat, if dipped in sugar and honey to eat, it is more sweet and crisp, dipping sauce, salty and refreshing, the wine is the best, suspect raw food is light, just cut along the stem, swing enough plate, boiling oil boiling hot, prickly splashed, and then pour autumn oil, it is more annoying, this is the taste of spring swaying on the taste buds of summer.
This season, if you do Jinan's old dish slippery stir-fried tenderloin, do not use bamboo shoot shreds, it is best to use pu cabbage and zibai, that elegant and light taste, will make the tenderloin silk also some fluttering. In fact, the best is to use a few lake shrimp, use a mallet to lay some starch into shrimp slices, and then finely cut into strips, pu cabbage is also cut finely, make a slippery fried shrimp shredded, lake shrimp with lake vegetables, it is more tasteful.
Another reason is that the preparation of milk soup is also about to be lost. A few years ago, "China on the Tip of the Tongue 2" came to Jinan to record, and after the hit, the milk soup pu cai was even more famous.
Milk soup pu cai has regained its national fame, and thanks to "China on the Tip of the Tongue 2", the chef's exquisite skills make people salivate at a glance. But for the people of Jinan, this seems to be not just a home-cooked dish that satisfies the appetite, but also a kind of good memory.
The old tradition of Lu cuisine, the heaviest soup, and the advantages and disadvantages of the dish, the soup is the most critical, clear soup, is to pork knuckles, old hens, fat duck, dried scallops and other slow simmer until crisp, decanted out of the juice, and then by the chicken thigh meat chopped into the "red pretty" of the minced mud or the tender chicken breast meat chopped into the "white pretty" of the minced mud can be used separately. And milk soup, because the soup color milk white taste mellow and mellow. Hanging milk soup has two exquisite, one is that the fat of the ingredients should be rich enough, in other words, the ingredients should be good, the chicken and duck elbows should be fat enough, and the milk soup is milky white, the main reason is that the fat in the soup water is scattered into fine particles, and the color refracted by the protein wrapped in the water is refracted. Second, the hanging milk soup must be boiled with enough water, the soup water boiling to fully disperse the grease, after the protein wrapped in water to form a suspension liquid into a milk soup.
To be honest, how many other restaurants and how many chefs are willing to work hard to make this pot of milk soup? Without milk soup, talk about the milk soup family portrait, milk soup pu cabbage, milk soup fish belly, milk soup ham winter shoots, milk soup grilled abalone sea cucumber fish lip skirt four treasures... What about these old dishes?
Let's talk about the old way of milk soup and cabbage.
Take crisp and tender puddle, peel off the old skin, cut into long pieces, slice the mushrooms, bamboo shoot tips or magnolia slices, boil the water, fish out the filtered water, cut the ham into strips or mushrooms, cut the green onion into sections, hot pot under the oil, fry the chives, cook the green onion pepper wine, the green onion pepper wine is a condiment of the traditional Lu cuisine, is the green onion white and peppercorns are crushed together, wrapped in gauze and soaked in Shao wine, soaked after about a day of taking out the shallots And Shao wine, now the restaurant pays attention to this is not much. Cooking shallot and pepper wine is because the milk soup in the milk soup will have a fishy smell after hanging, so use the shallot wine to remove the fishy, and the second to add the aroma of wine and onion pepper to make the dish taste more abundant. The shallot wine is cooked fragrantly, put into the prepared milk soup, boiled, skimmed off the foam, added to the pu vegetable segments, shiitake mushrooms, bamboo shoot tips or magnolia slices, simmered for a while, raised the pot, added salt to taste, put into the soup bowl, sprinkled with ham shreds or mushrooms, and added a few strands of yellow egg skin shreds, a milk soup of puddle is good.
I once ate a good milk soup cabbage many years ago, and when I first saw it, I only flashed a poem" "The spring color of the garden can't be closed." Pu cabbage green as emerald, white as fat jade, ham mushroom embellishment, white green red look fresh and pleasant. Soup is hanging milk soup, the taste is generous, warm and long, white and mellow, a spoonful of thick soup entrance, taste buds stretched out, plus the pu cabbage is tender, clear mouth is not greasy, although it is a vegetarian dish, but the soup cabbage green, the thick aroma of the milk soup does not lose the clear aroma of the heart, and there is an endless aftertaste in the plain and light, and there is an endless taste of deliciousness, great beauty!
Unfortunately, since then, I have never eaten such a good milk soup cabbage.
In addition to the pot and milk soup pu cabbage, the favorite thing to eat is the pu cabbage dumplings, hand cut meat filling, borrow meat to add flavor, and add a few shrimp, it is even more annoying.
Every year from the third to the seventh month of the lunar calendar, pu cai in season, between May and June, is the time when pu cai is fresh and tender, the most suitable for "lotus tip reeds green water, grass long warblers flying all over jintang" Daming Lake, with the bright moon breeze under the wine, drink good wine, taste delicious, that is really full of early summer colors, full of pu fragrance ...
Pu cai is eaten in three places in the country, one is Huai'an, Jiangsu, one is Qujing, Yunnan, and the other is Jinan.
Pu cai commonly known as "grass buds", mainly the southern water towns are more, to the quality of Jiangsu Huai'an as the best, the north has no pu cai, probably because of drought and lack of water, now there are also large areas of planting, the market pu cai is basically self-sufficient, the northern pu cai can be comparable to the quality of Huai'an, can only be in Jinan Daming Lake.
"Jinan people have been eating pu cabbage for more than a hundred years, once, Daming Lake produced pu cabbage, and now the picking of Jinan pu cabbage is mainly concentrated on the Yaoqiang and the beaches north of the Yellow River." The viability of puddle is very strong, it does not need to be planted, and the current puddle on the market is wild. "The best time to eat puccup is from May to June, and it's now available in the market."
Take advantage of the tenderness of the puddle, you can also dry some dried punu, in late autumn and early winter, think of this bite, just soak the dried puddle, use the broth to roast the meat, it is another taste. Once ate a dish of dried roast pork with bamboo shoots, which was delicious.
When the season really passes, the pu cabbage is old, then use the puddle to bundle the meat slices, make a piece of old Jinan's handle meat, the meat sauce in the faint aroma of pudding, can make people under three bowls of dried rice.
When the grass is older, I will weave a few puddle fans and shake them up to drive away the heat in late summer and early autumn.
Then, quietly wait for the arrival of the next year's fresh and tender puddle.
And the method of pu cai, in Jinan cuisine, the pot collapse and milk soup are the most delicious.
The pot collapsed pu cabbage is delicious, freshly picked pu cabbage, take the tender stem, cut it into half pieces, pat it with a knife slightly, make it loose, add refined salt cooking wine to marinate, pat flour, add egg yolk paste to grasp well, put it on the plate in two rows, and smooth the remaining paste on it. Hot pot, cooked lard 50% hot, push the pu cabbage into the pot, low heat fry until the pu cabbage slices "stand up", control the oil out, turn the spoon, pour the oil, continue to fry until both sides are golden, add green onion ginger shreds, add clear soup water starch mixed with a spoonful of juice, seasoning, slightly collapsed, the fire should be slight, the soup should be collapsed, sprinkle ham shreds, take a large dish, cover the pot Chinese dishes, stew, soup nearly exhausted, flip out of the pot, the color is golden and delicate, the entrance is fresh and tender, the fragrance of the puks lingers on the lips and teeth, and the deep taste buds are like the breeze of Daming Lake.
Although the pot collapse pu cai is good, but in the early days of the recipe, milk soup pu cai can be said to be the representative of Jinan vegetable soup dish, in fact, the milk soup pu cai is subdivided, it should be divided into milk soup grilled pu cai and milk soup stew pu cai. Nowadays, most of the milk soup pudding is milk soup stewed puddle, and the reason is that there are fewer and fewer chefs who can make milk soup and grilled puddles at night.
Mr. Lao She wrote in "The Spring of Daming Lake": "People who have traveled through Suzhou often only remember the dim sum here, and people who have visited the West Lake will recite the Longjing tea, lotus powder and lettuce there when they mention it, and it may be easier to remember it than the beauty of the eyes, so the pu cabbage, white white, and white lotus of Daming Lake are really important reasons for its fame in the world? In any case, these things are both aquatic products, and they always have some southern flavor. ”
Mr. Zang Kejia also has a good impression of pu cai. In the article "Hometown Cuisine Flavor", he wrote: "In Daming Lake, in the middle of the lotus flowers, there are many puddles, standing up with a tender green body. Tourists who have visited Daming Lake often go to a restaurant on the shore to eat. The restaurant is not large, but there is one famous dish, that is: stir-fried pork with puddle. It can be seen that this pu vegetable relies on the nourishment of Daming Lake to be famous in The Sea.
The pu vegetables of Daming Lake may have become a memory.
Before 1958, Daming Lake was overgrown with reeds. On the north shore of Daming Lake and south of the north city wall, there are more than 100 households living. They plant lotus roots in the lake, collect lotus roots, fish, and ferry people, and they are considered "lake people". The three treasures of Daming Lake — pu cai, zi bai and white lotus root — are from the hands of the lake people. In the early spring of each year, the lakers are busy cleaning up the lake fields, and in the summer, they will plant pujac. The lakers plucked the root of the puddle from the lake, removed the old roots, divided the new roots into individual plants, and stepped on them again into the lake. The white lotus root and the white lotus are roughly the same situation.
Flowing like water, the wisps of aroma of these homely tastes are not far away at any time, but because of the affection, they have become unforgettable delicacies in memory, and inadvertently evoke the infinite aftertaste of old things and family affection...
Pu cabbage grows in the wild, less pollution, does not contain fertilizers, pesticides, is the favorite on people's table, people are happy to use it to cook a variety of delicious dishes, in the consumption of puddle can not only satisfy the appetite but also bring rich nutrition to our body, conditioning our body. After watching the puddish cuisine, are you already ready to move?
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Explore the cuisine and discover the cuisine.
Record Jinan from a grassroots perspective.
Xiaobian takes you to find the delicious food of Jinan.
Author: Ran Xiaobao| Editor: Left Taste Right Taste | Source: Left Taste Right Taste
(Dear bonsai friends, find that the food should be recommended to the editor Oh, welcome to "pick up")