Upstream Culture 丨 Serial 丨 Gu Shiwei: Crispy Glutinous Rice Flowers Make "Fried Rice Sugar Boiled Water" a High-Grade Food - "Fried Rice Sugar Boiled Water" Examination (9)

People • Wen • Kao • Ancient

Pastry glutinous rice flowers make "fried rice sugar boiling water" a high-grade food

——"Stir-fried rice candy boiling water" test (9)

Gu Shiwei

Select puff pastry in puffing

Returned from rice rice to glutinous rice

The fried rice blossoms evolved into crispy glutinous rice blossoms

Fried rice candy is pushed to the top

The reinvention of the two brothers of the Jiangjin Chen clan

Thanks

In the history of the development of fried rice candy, there is a strange problem. Why, in the history before the Republic of China, the fried rice candy in the Bayu area only saw sand fried glutinous rice flowers, but there were no crispy glutinous rice flowers? In the early years of the Republic of China, when the two brothers Chen Hanqing and Chen Liquan of the Jiangjin clan in Chongqing made Jiangjin rice candy in the form of puff pastry, even people in that era thought that Chen Hanqing and Chen Liquan's puff pastry process was an invention rather than a inheritance of ancient methods.

Faced with a thick history book, I spent several days pondering and pondering this question.

After reading and thinking for a long time, by looking for clues in the wheel trajectory of Bayu's history, it may be possible to make some guesses.

I think this should be found in the years of wars and wars in the Bashu region after the end of the Song Dynasty. At the end of the Song Dynasty, Mengyuan invaded the Central Plains, slaughtered the city, killed people, destroyed the fields and raised grass, under the iron hoof, diaoyu City was besieged for thirty-six years and destroyed the city, ten households did not exist three households, and the national economy was fatally damaged. Then, at the end of the Ming Dynasty, Zhang Xianzhong took possession of Bashu and entered the Customs of the Great Qing Dynasty, and in the process of suppressing Li Zicheng Zhang Xianzhong, he once again destroyed the slaughter of the city, and the population of Bashu did not exist, and the people's livelihood fell into decay again. Later, at the end of the Qing Dynasty, the country was reduced to a semi-colony, followed by the Beiyang Scuffle and the Kuomintang Civil War, the country was weak, the people were poor, displaced, and the people were not happy, for hundreds of years, the people fell into a situation of hunger and poverty. In this situation, the bark of the grass roots and trees can be fed, the coarse bran and rotten vegetables are used to fill the hunger, and where there is rich grain and oil, to supply the oil crisp.

In these hundreds of years, the rice crisp process has been basically lost and no longer known because there is no oil to shorten. At the same time, in order to produce more grain to solve the problem of hunger, glutinous rice varieties have also been replaced by ordinary rice that can be planted for two crops, and glutinous rice has become a scarce product. So that by the collapse of the Qing Dynasty and the early years of the Republic of China, although fried rice sugar recovered, rice was no longer glutinous rice, and rice flowers were no longer puff pastry. Fan Cheng's Glutinous Rice Flowers of the Song Dynasty have been reduced to inferior ordinary sand fried rice rice. So much so that Chen Hanqing and Chen Liquan, two brothers, tried to puff glutinous rice flowers in the form of puff pastry, which was regarded as an invention and was praised by the world.

As grassroots people and rural mountain people, Chen Hanqing and Chen Liquan, without any literature inspiration and no application of the times, only rely on their own wisdom and wisdom, discovered the magic of puff pastry, and reopened the puff pastry process, which is indeed another invention.

From the Chen brothers' puff pastry candy boiling water is so popular, reverse thinking, Chongqing's previous fried rice candy boiling water has been mostly soaked with ordinary sand fried rice flowers. It is similar to fried noodle soup, yin rice porridge and other similar foods, and together it has become a Bayu snack. And because of the white and fat appearance of the glutinous rice flowers, the soft and soft glutinous glutinous appearance of brewing boiling water, the "fried rice sugar boiling water" is a heart-warming roar,

The reason why the vendors shouted "fried rice sugar boiling water" instead of "rice sugar boiling water" actually indirectly revealed the secret of Chongqing's early fried rice sugar boiling water,—— the early "fried rice sugar boiling water", using not crispy glutinous rice flowers, but ordinary fried rice flowers.

It also prompts the three histories of fried rice sugar raw materials: before the Song Dynasty, fried rice sugar was mostly glutinous rice raw materials; the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties, the times were chaotic, and by the end of the Qing Dynasty, the people's livelihood was difficult, glutinous rice and oil production were reduced, and fried rice sugar used more ordinary rice; after the Republic of China, China gradually got rid of the semi-colonial and semi-feudal state, agriculture recovered, people's livelihood gradually improved, and glutinous rice was re-used as a raw material for candy and pastries.

The real high-grade "fried rice candy boiling water" was invented after Chen Hanqing and Chen Liquan's Jiangjin rice candy, that is, after the thirteenth year of the Republic of China (1924 AD). During the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, the "fried rice candy boiling water" in the streets and alleys of Chongqing, with the emergence of Jiangjin rice candy, has actually been mostly updated, no longer using sand to fry rice flowers, but with oil beads flashing, sprayed with glutinous rice flavor of Jiangjin rice candy.

From glutinous rice, to not glutinous rice; from not glutinous rice, to glutinous rice. The main ingredient of fried rice sugar has experienced such suffering. There are some subtle mysteries hidden in the name and reality of "fried rice candy" and "rice candy", it is no wonder that Mr. Sima Qingyi and many, even many young generations in Chongqing, will fully identify fried rice candy and rice candy as one thing.

By consulting the "Chronicle of Jiangjin County" and other related historical records, the author studied the nouns in Chongqing and found that the term "rice candy" was actually a term that appeared after Chen Hanqing and Chen Liquan brothers invented the puff pastry rice flower. Prior to this, the word "rice candy" did not appear in the market and in the Chinese thesaurus.

The term "fried rice candy" is a common term, and all sugar products of puffed rice flowers can be called "fried rice candy". The reason why "fried rice candy" has become a common name is related to the mainstream of modern folk workshops "sand fried puffing".

"Fried rice candy" includes "rice candy", but "fried rice candy" is not necessarily "rice candy". "Rice candy" refers specifically to "puff pastry rice candy", which is the exclusive title of "puff pastry rice candy" and is the abbreviation of "puff pastry rice candy".

So far, the records and physical evidence that can be found in history, Chen Hanqing and Chen Liquan's fried rice candy is the first time to be named "rice candy", and the first time it is printed on the packaging with the word "rice candy" for sale.

Of course, in later years, due to the noble connotation of the term "rice candy", it was also borrowed from stir-fried rice and fried rice candy made of popcorn. Over time, other puffed ways of stir-frying rice candy have often used the term "rice candy" to refer to themselves.

The rice candy invented by Chen Hanqing and Chen Liquan of the Jiangjin people is a historic update of fried rice candy and has developed fried rice candy to the highest stage. After the invention of the Chen brothers' puff pastry rice candy, the stir-fried rice candy boiling water became a real court-style snack, and became a high-end and high-end local snack. Although in the streets and alleys of Chongqing, the vendors of the stalls still drink "fried rice candy boiling water", and the elegant canteen and the rich and noble families also call it "fried rice sugar boiling water", but its content is already "rice sugar boiling water". When people brew "stir-fried rice candy boiling water", they will never say that it is fried rice candy, but that it is brewed and sealed rice candy.

"Rice candy" is the nobleman in "fried rice candy", the queen in "fried rice candy", the crown in "fried rice candy", the king of "fried rice candy", and the Hermes in the "fried rice candy" family!

The brothers Chen Hanqing and Chen Liquan are not only the inventors of the puff pastry puffed rice candy process, but also the inventors of the term "rice candy".

They are the inventors of the "rice candy" name and reality.

But in this chapter, we still refer to all rice flower foods according to people's cultural habits and the big concept of fried rice candy.

As for why Chongqing's fried rice candy boiling water between the fried glutinous rice flowers and the oil crisp glutinous rice flowers, after the Republic of China, eventually favored the preference for the oil crispy glutinous rice flowers, this should be attributed to people's food color nature.

The Analects says: "Food is not boring, and it is not boring." "Color, not tired of its beauty; taste, not tired of its good." Bayu people are particularly sharp and picky about taste and food, and this spirit of unremitting attention to food and the pursuit of taste will naturally choose "fried rice sugar boiled water" with complete color and fragrance and unique humanistic taste.

【Source: Upstream News】

Disclaimer: The copyright of this article belongs to the original author, if there is an error in the source or infringement of your legitimate rights and interests, you can contact us through the mailbox, we will deal with it in a timely manner. Email address: [email protected]