RongYuan Park was opened at No. 1 Buhou Street
Business Registration Petition submitted by Blu-ray Kan
The first left is Blu-ray. Figure (Autohome)
Perhaps the most evocative of those long-established brands that have disappeared into the streets of Chengdu is the old restaurant that has brought the taste of the tongue to diners.
Rongyuan Park in the Republic of China period is one of them. This name is not so familiar, but in the Sichuan cuisine world, it is famous.
During the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, U.S. Tank Commander Han Ke, Flying Tigers Captain Chennault, U.S. Secretary of State Schultz, and diplomats from the Anglo-American and French Consulates in Chengdu loved to patronize Rongyuan.
Even in 1982, a table of wine and dishes in Rongyuan Land reached a "sky-high price" of 1,000 yuan.
Time has passed, and the century-old shop has been dominated by a hundred-year-old store, and the golden signboard has been covered with a thick layer of historical dust.
On June 24, a precious archive from the Chengdu Municipal Archives brought this famous restaurant back into our sights.
In November of the 30th year of the Republic of China (1941), the 58-year-old Blu-ray Jian submitted a business registration petition to the Chengdu Municipal Government to open Rongyuan Park at No. 1 Buhou Street. Blu-ray Jian is the founder of Rong Paradise. This self-taught master, together with his brother, opened a new era of Sichuan cuisine. Because of his persistence and refinement, Rongyuan Has become a "Sichuan cuisine business card" and is famous at home and abroad.
Convergence/
Stealing teachers to learn the art blu-ray to identify the expertise of chefs in the north and south
In the last years of the Xianfeng Dynasty of the Qing Dynasty, there was a Zhengxing Garden on the streets of Chengdu, famous for its cold bag seating hall, which was opened by the Manchu Guan Zhenxing. Among the guys who are busy going back and forth in Zhengxing Park is Blu-ray Jian, the founder of RongYuan Park.
Zhengxingyuan is very arrogant, the bowls are exquisite and lustrous, and there are dozens of tables of ivory and ebony wrapped silver chopsticks. The "Chengdu General Survey" says: "The exquisite person at the table is only one place in the Official Zhengxing Garden. ...... Its porcelain plate porcelain bowl, antique mottled, the dish is also exquisite, the soup taste is very good, the so-called pomp and circumstance is good and the style is high. ”
In the Qing Dynasty, there was a stipulation that the provincial capital officials must be foreigners. And these officials come to Sichuan, in addition to bringing their families, they will also bring their favorite hometown chefs. When eating out, restaurants will also adjust their tastes to suit the preferences of officials. Therefore, the different sour, sweet, salty and spicy in the north and south of the river are gathered in this country of heavenly provinces, forming an inclusive and unique dietary pattern.
Liu Xiaochang, a folklore expert in Sichuan Province, said that this situation is no exception in Zhengxingyuan. In 1905, He Lunxie became the police chief of Sichuan, a high-ranking official from the north who was so demanding of food that he threatened to knock out the chef's side door because he hated the local customs of a restaurant's five-willow fish. In Zhengxing Garden, this official who likes to be a good art vessel and is known as "He Dayou" has found his own favorite, and has also promoted the sichuan cuisine innovation in Zhengxing Garden.
Later, Zhou Xiaohuai, who served as the Daotai of Sichuan Persuasion, brought the simplicity and delicacy of Jiangsu and Zhejiang famous dishes into Zhengxing Garden, and then created famous dishes such as eggplant eel and eight treasure pot steaming.
The confluence of He Pai and Zhou Pai, which blends and collides between steaming and stir-frying, attracts many diners and is famous in Rongcheng. In 1897, the head of the restaurant's back hall saw that Blu-ray Jian was clever, and reacted quickly to summon him as an apprentice. After entering Zhengxing Garden, Blu-ray Jian only set up tables and chairs every day, went outside the city late at night to "do business", and even sometimes could only sleep on the bench. But as soon as he had time, Blu-ray Jian crouched in the corner of the stove, peeking at master Fu's moves and styles, and got the essence of he pai and Zhou pai.
Superb/
Pastry expert Lotus leaf cake is loved by Zhang Daqian
In 1912, Blu-ray Jian and his younger brother Guangrong, Guangbi first partnered with the chief chef of Zhengxingyuan, and then took over all of them, and set up RongYuan Park on Huguang Guild Hall Street (dongfeng road section 2) (moved to Buhou Street in 1933).
Brothers work together, and their profits are broken. The eldest brother Blu-ray Jian oversees the overall situation, makes good friends with various bureaucratic warlords, and opens up financial resources. He also made a bold statement: "Except for Ma Qishi who is not my buyer, everyone else is my guest." The reason why Ma Seventh Division would not patronize Rong Paradise was only because of his Hui status, and naturally did not like Han Xi.
Since it is a place where northern and southern cuisines gather, the noodles are also quite outstanding in RongYuan. Liu Xiaochang introduced that the person in charge of this part was Lan Guangrong, who was also a famous pastry expert at that time. Its hair is soft and tough, and when steamed, the original mellow aroma of coarse grains overflows. The lotus leaf cake he made was also loved by Zhang Daqian, with a thin and white skin, a strong and flavorful chew, a thick and fragrant filling, and a strong taste of food.
The old third blue wall is in charge of money, a dozen abacuses, the accounts are clear and clear, the income of large and small expenditures is clear in the chest, and he cannot escape his "calculation".
Of course, the eldest brother Blu-ray Jian is the leader of this brother's business, but all important banquets are always personally commanded and command the overall situation. At the same time, Blu-ray Jian also strictly controls the authenticity and purity of the entire Rongyuan Sichuan flavor. Zhang Songyun, a special chef in Chengdu, once studied with Blu-ray Jian, and after he left the school, he went to other places to run beaches for many years. After returning to Chengdu, RongYuan was crowded with customers and was short of manpower.
Because he was a famous chef who came out of Rong Park, he was naturally familiar with the affairs of the back hall, so Rong Park wanted to recall Zhang Songyun's helpers. But as soon as he said that he was going to go to the stove, Blu-ray Jian immediately responded, "It is not impossible." The apprentice next to him asked the reason, and Blu Jian frowned: "He has been running outside for so long, mixing a lot of moves from other places, if he holds the spoon, he will make the authentic Sichuan flavor formed by RongYuan's accumulation over the years, which will ruin our honor." ”
Heat/
Duck soup dish
Ten female ducks are used to boil the soup
The dishes of Rong Paradise are exquisite, and the most emblematic of this two words must be the soup known as the soul of the dish.
When it comes to the prestigious Rongyuan "boiling water cabbage", the name seems simple and easy to do, but in fact it implies a complex mystery.
Liu Xiaochang introduced that this cabbage should be made of yellow cabbage heart, which is warm and tender like emerald fat jade. "And this clear soup is like boiling water, like glass, and the taste is not thin." To boil this clear soup, you must choose an old hen with tender meat, an old fat duck, a ham hoof, three pounds of chicken breast meat, and three pounds of lean pork... Prepare another thirty pounds of water, remove the raw birds from their hair and internal organs, scrape the hooves and bones, and chop the lean meat into meat.
All kinds of raw birds, hoof bones and lean meat are in different soup orders and cannot be disrupted, and the blood bubbles floating out of the water must be cleaned at every step. Among them, when hanging the soup, the simmering fire should not be too large, keeping the soup in the pot seems to be open; when sweeping the soup, the end of the pot is half away, half boiling and half quiet.
A bowl of boiling water cabbage has so many processes, not to mention other big dishes. Liu Xiaochang introduced that a duck soup dish, in addition to using various high-grade medicinal materials as ingredients, the boiling of the soup requires ten high-grade old female ducks. "In the past, chickens and ducks were fed by farmers with bran grain, and the ones on the table were fattened and stewed out fragrant but not greasy."
The dishes of Zhengxingyuan are so popular that they also have a good grasp of the word "live fresh" that Sichuan cuisine is most exquisite. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, Zhou Qing's "Old Records of Furong Dialects" Volume II "Steamed Food" article talks about the exquisiteness of Chengdu people eating fish and shrimp, saying that Chengdu "fish and shrimp are beautiful, the river water is clear, it is easiest to take fish, the fish seller's home is raised in a boulder tank, the tank has been for many years, the algae shallot cage, the fish can be fed for a long time, and the shrimp is raised in the pond." The practitioner hengju is dozens of miles away from the city, and the shrimp are sent into the city before the dawn of the day, and the shrimp is fresh and clean, and the pond is inexhaustible. There are also no shrimp in the table, except for the shrimp, and soak the raw shrimp with onion wine and vinegar, cover it with a bowl, kaizhi, the shrimp jump out of the plate, the guests scramble to grab it, the name 'drunken shrimp', especially the provincial characteristics, other places are not easy to get also."
It seems that the dish of "drunken shrimp" is not a feature that only exists on the seashore in Xichang Qiong today, and Chengdu people in the late Qing Dynasty began to enjoy this cuisine.
Kung Fu/
Panda play bamboo
The Americans refused to do so
Blu-ray's dedication to Sichuan flavor has been passed down from generation to generation, and it has constantly renovated its tricks while maintaining authentic and unique characteristics.
After the founding of New China, Rongyuan Continued to Grow and Develop, and in the persistence of the teacher and the innovation of the new apprentices, it welcomed "national" diners such as Chairman Mao and Mr. He, as well as many foreign friends who were interested in Chinese cuisine.
Shortly after the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and the United States, at a related celebration banquet, a disciple surnamed Zhang in Blu-ray Jian shocked the four seats with a "panda play bamboo".
"The panda's body is made of white and tender chicken breast meat, and the panda's black palms and black ears are pasted with hair vegetables." Liu Xiaochang said that the panda eyes that were shining brightly used dark and shiny skin eggs. The sticky and slippery kelp skin is cut into the panda's favorite bamboo.
The panda is the favorite Chinese element of foreigners, and this design is even more pleasing. After serving it to the table, the American friend held the chopsticks, stared at the dish, and refused to start. "This panda is so cute, how to eat it." After some introduction by the chef, american friends slowly picked up a piece of white meat, the "panda" entrance, a light bite to overflow the fresh juice, the meat is soft and tender to seem to instantly melt into the mouth. The salty and light sauce is suitable, and the secret sauce completely releases the delicious taste of the chicken itself, so that American friends once again recognize the profundity of Sichuan cuisine.
In addition to being unique in China, Rong Paradise is also gradually becoming famous overseas. In June 1980, the first Sichuan restaurant jointly operated by Sichuan Province and American businessmen, Rongyuan Garden, opened in New York, and many excellent chefs were selected from Chengdu Rongyuan to bring orthodox Sichuan flavor to the other side of the ocean.
After 1980, the fate of Rongyuan Began to take a sharp turn for the worse, and it was repeatedly relocated, reopened and closed down. In 1997, it appeared in the second section of Renmin Middle Road; in 2004, it reopened at No. 169 Liangui South Road...
In 2009, due to the aging of the brand and system, the century-old famous restaurant Rongyuan completely disappeared from people's vision.
West China Metropolis Daily - Cover news reporter Yang Chen draws Luo Le
Information photo courtesy of Chengdu Municipal Archives