Tianjin's traditional famous snack "Dog Ignore Buns" was founded in the Qing Dynasty. Once praised by Empress Dowager Cixi, it became a hit. In the 1970s, Chairman Mao also praised it.
However, today, "the dog ignores the bun" has encountered an online crisis. Many netizens have said: "The dog ignores the bun, it is unpalatable, and a bun, the most expensive sold to more than thirty yuan, is not worthy of the name." ”
For a time, the online bad comments were like a tide. It is said that Tianjin natives never eat "dog ignoring", who let it kill customers for a long time? Now as soon as it was exposed, it became a snub in the courtyard and waited for the closure. This time, "the dog ignores" and becomes that only the dog will "reason".
163 years ago, "Dog Ignore" started from a roadside stall, and now, the capital and brand effect have been there, and there is no shortage of talents. But why did it become this?
A traditional snack that has its own life cycle. Some things used to be delicious in the world, but not necessarily in the contemporary era of material culture.
In this case, the merchant does not want to improve their own products, but still has a mind to change the tricks to kill customers, treat consumers as fools, of course, will eat their own bitter fruit.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="8" >, the era of taking "meat buns" as food, has passed</h1>
Previously, I saw someone on the Internet demonstrating the production of the famous dish "Jade Dragon Tendon" of the Qing Palace, he said that this dish was difficult for the emperor to eat in ancient times. Because the raw materials for making it are to use the tendons of more than twenty pounds of large sturgeon.
In ancient times, this fish was not artificially cultivated, it was wild. To wait for it to grow that big, at least 20 years. What's more, you have to be able to catch it.
Contemporary China is rich in material culture, and on our table, "sea, land, and air" are complete, and things that the emperor could not eat before have also entered the homes of ordinary people.
During the Qing Dynasty, the people at the bottom of Beijing and Tianjin were actually very poor. At that time, poor people would feel very satisfied if they could eat meat buns. But today's people have long been tired of eating meat buns.
So, whether you put shrimp in it, put yaozhu in it, or wrap abalone thorn belly in it, it will not bring any surprises to diners. Because diners have long felt that it is very common.
In fact, each traditional cuisine has its own life cycle, and when the era that belongs to it has passed, it should naturally die out. In the same situation as "dog ignore", there is also the West Lake vinegar fish.
Legend has it that the Song dynasty's fish soup was very famous, and the emperors of the Southern Song Dynasty all went to eat it. But almost 99% of the netizens who have tasted it today will tell you: the taste is not good, that is, boiled fish. In addition to acid, it is fishy.
A while ago, I bought a copy of the "Suiyuan Food List", which was written about ancient food recipes. I once wanted to eat it as I did, but my friend immediately said: It's not delicious.
So, how does she know? Because the previous seasoning, it is not rich at all now. It's just that when there was a shortage of materials in ancient times, it was easier for people to satisfy.
In addition to the differences in ancient and modern tastes, there are also regional dietary differences. As a Sichuanese, the first time I ate "Dog Ignore" at a local food festival, I "cried" on the spot.
I don't know if it was pit by someone, I always felt that the bun was not dipped in vinegar to eat, a strange smell; dipped in vinegar is a bad smell, and finally taken to feed my cat, cats do not like to eat.
Anyway, what kind of flowers can you make a bun for? What is the courage to put ordinary meat buns, sell an average of 20 yuan a piece, or even higher price?
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="45" > second, "dog ignore" probably wants to be "cool" a little stronger</h1>
"Dog ignore" became popular when Cixi was the empress dowager. In the beginning, everyone rushed to its low price and good quality. Later, everyone "opened the light" to Lafayette, and the people also ate it, which was equivalent to staining the light of "Lafayette".
In the 1970s, because Chairman Mao had tasted it and appreciated it, it became popular again. Everyone gritted their teeth and bought a few to taste, as if they had also stained Chairman Mao's light.
However, this does not guarantee that the "dog will ignore" and will always live. Because Chairman Mao has eaten a lot of things.
People's tastes are always changing, "dog ignore" can not think about change? Even if it is true that you can't make new ingredients and production processes, you can't be a fool when consumers are fools, don't slaughter them with your face!
Chongqing has a special snack called "Mountain City Small Tangyuan". It is said that in the 1920s, a Zhejiang master brought it to Chongqing. Tangyuan is made with rice, osmanthus flowers, and black sesame seeds, which have no characteristics like meat buns.
In the 1980s, "Mountain City Small Tangyuan" had a façade on Bayi Road, looking at more than ten or twenty square meters. Now, it is still there, the façade has shrunk to a few square meters, and the tangyuan is still the same as before, selling only a few dollars a bowl.
When it comes to Chongqing's gourmet snacks, its name can't be avoided. The reason why "Shancheng Xiaotangyuan" is still alive is because its boss has never slaughtered people's minds.
Today's foreign tourists, if they want to eat this small tangyuan, when they enter it, they will neither find it particularly delicious nor feel that it is particularly unpalatable. Ordinary, but affordable.
The boss of "Dog Ignores Buns" used to make more money, and later his heart was bigger. He wanted a high return, so he began to squeeze the last value of the "dog ignore" golden sign. Even if it stinks its reputation, you must make money yourself first.
However, this kind of slaughtering behavior of "ignoring the dog" has still been sanctioned by "network justice". Nowadays, the power of online comments is so great that "dogs ignore" did not expect it.
Some netizens even suspect that "dogs ignore" not only rip off customers, but also may have other reasons. Otherwise, how dare it price a bun at twenty or thirty yuan and cut itself off from the people. Regardless of whether the netizens are right or not, the "dog ignores" this time is indeed the end.
"The court snubbed the cars and horses, and the disgraced dogs ignored them."
Probably, the traditional old brand food, there are only two endings. Either you will kill yourself, or just like the "small tangyuan in the mountain city", fix your heart, survive, earn only a little money, and keep a good reputation.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="54" > conclusion</h1>
To tell the truth, the reason why "dog ignores" is that it is ostensibly because it "rips off customers". But the deeper reason is that the dividend period of "meat buns" has passed.
People who are accustomed to eating mountain treasures and seafood lack enthusiasm for meat buns. Otherwise, with the spending power of today's people, what is the purchase of 8 buns for 125 yuan?
In the past, "dog ignoring" could also praise it with celebrities such as Cixi and earn money from "foreign tourists". However, the times are different now, and with the accumulation of bad reviews on various travel food websites, its end can be imagined.
If the "dog doesn't care" and doesn't die like this, although it may be as invisible as the "Mountain City Tangyuan", it can survive.
However, the boss of "dog ignore" is quite "backbone", thinking: it is better to be a chicken mouth than a cow queen. It is better to simply smash the "dog ignore" gold sign and let it fall down violently.