Books on food have always been popular, and the recently baked "Chinese Super Will Eat" presents a noisy sound and civilian wisdom, which can be called a new tour of the contemporary Chinese table, which is more vivid and fragrant.
Writer Wang Kai and veteran media personality Dai Xiaoman have been collecting styles for three years, visiting century-old famous shops, popular restaurants and street restaurants, dismantling the long history behind delicious food, mountains, rivers, lakes and seas, phenology of the four seasons, and ritual sentiments.
Okay, let's take a table tour.
Wisdom on the go
For modern Chinese, the travel time no longer needs to be long months, "dry food" has gradually become a forgotten name, and the food on the journey has become more and more diverse.
On the steamship: the duck wins the world
The water system of the coastal cities is developed, and people on ships can eat ducks from all over the world, saltwater ducks from Nanjing, plate ducks from Anhui, and duck necks from Wuhan, Hubei Province. These foods are handled with a lot of salt and spices and are not bad on the ship for three or four days.
On the train: Instant noodles fall out of favor
China's earliest box lunch system matured on the train. At a time when most cafeterias still need people to bring their own tableware to decide what to buy, the train has implemented a standard system: a meat dish, often a slice of fatty pork, plus a few slices of vegetarian vegetables, and a large pot of steamed square rice, even if it is a high-end meal.
Don't know if you found it? The popular instant noodles on the train are decreasing, the taste of instant noodles is very heavy, and if you eat it in a closed carriage, the people next to you will look at you sideways.
On the road: The driver spawns a large plate of chickens
Famous dishes were invented for long-distance bus drivers. The legend of boiling fish fillets was invented by a small restaurant next to a highway in Chongqing: a chef almost ran out of all the ingredients in the restaurant, leaving only oil, fish fillets, bean sprouts, local chili peppers and peppercorns, and finally the chef cooked fish fillets and bean sprouts with oil, which has achieved a famous dish that has been popular for more than ten years. The same is true of another famous Xinjiang dish. Many people know that the big plate of chicken is a famous dish in Xinjiang, but they don't know that this dish was also invented for coach drivers.
A treasure trove of fly houses and popular restaurants
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Treasure Book 1: By-products of big cities
Fly houses exist in or around big cities, and there are no fly houses in remote areas. Only in big cities will there be small restaurants that contrast with luxury restaurants, with delicious dishes and chaotic decorations, such small restaurants have the possibility of becoming famous. In the list of restaurants for everyone who will eat, there must be a number of fly restaurants that he approves of.
Book 2: The Core of Perfectionism
Perfectionism is only for the dish, not for the environment. In a small fly restaurant in Hangzhou, the boss gets up every morning and runs to the fishing boat on the river to buy fish; the female owner of a fly restaurant in Sichuan, after buying the pig's brain from the market every day, must pass her own hand and remove the blood in her brain little by little. The bosses who cook well have a certain superstition about the dishes, and "how to make it delicious" is their principle.
Treasure Book 3: A fierce attitude
The last feature of the fly house is that the attitude of the owner and the waiter is not very good. They will be good cooks, good operators, but many attitudes are not good, only four or five tables of small restaurants are crowded all day long, and the boss wants to be kind and kind. There are also some restaurants, because of the owner's vicious attitude and the dilemma of difficulty in getting seated, slowly becoming famous, and it is possible that the dishes themselves are not so good, which belongs to the typical sword-and-edge story.
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Treasure Book 1: Very good-looking
Internet celebrity restaurant food is divided into two categories, one is very good-looking, and it is very attractive to turn into photos. This kind of good-looking vegetable may be some kind of strangely shaped vegetable, it may be a pink soup, or it may be some huge exaggerated Napoleon cake.
Book 2: Very ugly
Another kind of food served by the internet celebrity restaurant may not be good-looking, but it is very special: either big, or ugly, or out of line. For example, a restaurant selling crayfish made a bowl of hamburgers with more than thirty lobsters, which suddenly became a must-go place for everyone; there was also a restaurant that made crab paste yellow noodles, a bowl of noodles with half a bowl of paste yellow, very luxurious, but also quickly famous; those became internet celebrities "dirty bags", put the whole bullfrog noodles, basically beyond the general food, can not say that it must be unpalatable, but the producer's appeal is not delicious, but special.
The soul of the wet market
Suzhou: Local vegetables are king
From the Fengmen Hengjie Vegetable Market, Laodong Road Vegetable Market, Xinminqiao Vegetable Market, Loumen Vegetable Market to see the past——
Suzhou people like to eat local varieties of vegetables, such as cucumbers in Suzhou divided into two kinds, one is the local white cucumber, the other is the green cucumber. Selling cucumbers with good taste, tender taste and sufficient moisture are only half of the local cucumbers, generally white cucumbers are sold out first, and the public will choose cucumbers; also, although the skin of Hangzhou red eggplant is thin and good, everyone is still accustomed to choosing the locally produced horn tomatoes first; Suzhou's russet white varieties are also many, and the former Rubai outside the Gate is the most famous, because in history, the Low-lying terrain of Lou Feng, Xie Tang, Guo Xiang, and Chefang outside the Fengmen Is the most suitable for the growth of Rue.
Yangzhou: Semi-finished product supreme service
In addition to bean product stalls, many other vendors will also provide the corresponding semi-finished product services, edamame can buy peeled edamame rice; selling russet will give you a good skin; in addition to the noodles in the shop that makes noodles, there are dumplings, wonton skins; similarly, the fish balls, meatballs, etc. that often appear in Yangzhou cuisine have special shops to process, selling preliminarily processed fish balls, lotus boxes, meatballs, meatballs, meat sausages, egg dumplings, fried fish, etc. There are always one or two such shops in a vegetable market, and there will not be too many, often standing in a vegetable market for many years, all relying on taste to win word of mouth.
Chengdu: The True Meaning of Spicy Rivers and Lakes
There are old markets such as Yulin Vegetable Market, Majia Temple, Qingyang Community, Tangjia Temple, etc., and temporary street vegetable markets are also retained.
As a city famous for its spicy, Chengdu's vegetable market is also full of peppercorns and peppers. Fresh green peppercorns, large green peppers, two wattle strips, screw peppers, dragon peppers, red peppers, yellow peppers, dry peppers in the dry goods area, and also ground pepper noodles and pepper noodles. The characteristics of Sichuan cuisine can be summarized by 12 words "fresh as the bottom, good use of spicy, emphasis on flavor change", which is why Guizhou people, Hunan people, Jiangxi people and even Shaanxi people eat spicy, but everyone only remembers the spiciness of Sichuan cuisine, because only Sichuan cuisine can distinguish fresh spicy, spicy, dry spicy, choking spicy, spicy, spicy, spicy, spicy, sour and spicy and so on very carefully.
Shanghai: Early parsley market
Breakfast is definitely the soul of the vegetable farm, in addition to rice, wontons, small dumplings, oil piers, old-fashioned shallot oil cakes, fritters, soup noodles, salty and sweet soybean milk, meat dumplings, raw frying, pot stickers and other local breakfasts, as well as Huainan beef soup, Shandong pancakes, Anhui flatbread and other foreign breakfasts. If there is a breakfast shop that sells fame, it will take the whole vegetable market with it to soar in Shanghai.
By the way, the fried fish stall is often opened at the entrance of the vegetable farm, you can buy fried, you can also buy good fish in the vegetable market, cook it now, and charge a small processing fee per kilogram, which is a desirable choice for Shanghainese who require delicious and affordable.
Nanjing: Green ecology practitioner
The Yingbin Bazaar (under renovation and expected to reopen in 2023) and the Shangshu Lane Vegetable Market, as well as the Kexiang Vegetable Market near the Presidential Palace of the Daxing Palace, are popular old vegetable farms. These markets are full of fresh, well-stocked and neatly arranged vegetables. Kexiang Vegetable Market has set up a museum-like display window to display objects related to people's livelihood, and while buying and buying, you can also travel through a handful of historical and old times - only for the unique life culture of all the locals, so it has been passed on.
Nanjing's vegetable farms are mainly green, and there are all kinds of green vegetables for many years. In February and March, just after the wild vegetable season, the broad beans are on the market, very fat and fresh, then it is very delicious to use it to stir-fry, of course, there is an interesting way to eat the fresh fava beans with a string of cotton thread and a little salt.
Beijing: Old Beijing and Internationalization
Chaonei Nanjie Vegetable Market and Sanyuanli Vegetable Market are the best vegetable farms in Beijing.
What is revealed in the Small Street Vegetable Market in The Inner South is a relatively authentic state of life in old Beijing. In addition to the common vegetables, celery, Chinese cabbage, tomatoes, etc., there are also many southern vegetables, including cabbage, broad beans, edamame and so on. Unlike the southern vegetable markets that do their business meticulously and intimately, Beijing generally only sells edamame, and there are few stalls selling peeled edamame rice, but unlike the inner south side street, there are peeled clean edamame rice for sale.
The Sanyuanli Vegetable Farm near Liangma Bridge represents a different side of Beijing, where it serves a large number of exotic vegetables, as well as exotic spices, fruits, cheeses, steaks, seafood, etc., which are usually fine. Walking in the market, you can see people of different skin tones haggling in front of the paving. The vendors communicate with them fluently in English and are extremely familiar with their own goods and proud of their goods.
Finally, a not-so-complete "Chinese Food Guide" is offered to see what's on your mind
Chinese a guide to food
Vegetable mania
Vegetarian roast duck : True Incense of the Buddha
Matsutake lettuce soup : Spring healing gum drink
Wine vanilla head: the best taste of the fire
Lotus Pond Stir-fry: Gather the top brands in the fresh world
Chrysanthemum brain rice paste: mountain wind and wild air
Meat-eating traditions
Shanghai braised pork: thick oil, red sauce
Sichuan braised pork: fat but not greasy, thin but not chai
Boiled beef : Spicy soup tender beef stir-fried CP
Back to the pot meat : can not be without the soul of the watercress
Couple lung tablets: "Waste" tablets also have a future
Dry croquettes: A crunchy bite
Yangzhou Lion's Head: Fengrun Elastic Tooth Great Supplement Pill
There have been fish for years
Bad fish fillets: Engage in wine magic
Sauerkraut fish: Start with an authentic pickle
Squirrel Mandarin Fish: Flower knife kung fu deep
Dry roasted carp: Play against the fire with the vinegar
Shanghai smoked fish: soaked in a strong sauce cooked over a fiery fire
Jiang Tuan Lion Head: Fat is too beautiful, long live fat
Tiger tail: Tender and slippery to the top
Fried shrimp in oil: crispy on the outside and tender on the inside
Braised prawns in oil: The strongest shrimp brain in China
Drunken shrimp: the more fresh the more refreshing
Crystal Shrimp: Reborn from the fire small transparent
Spring leek snail : Spring rain spring field on the tip of the tongue
Grilled sea cucumber with green onions: Caramelized meat chives are also fragrant
Omnivorousism
Family Portrait: Cooking everything with a head and noodles
Eight bowls: there are meat and vegetarian steaming everything
Bowl Chicken: There is a spicy bubble for everything
Yangzhou salty goods: delicious in the wind
Plucked Apple: A little sweetheart with gold
Bad goods: The big guy loves appetizers
Passion fruit milk soup: fruit eggs and milk are happy to meet
END
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Author of this issue: Lu Yanxia
Editor of this issue: Li Xia solstice
Producer: Jia Wei
The text and pictures are authorized by Century Wenjing, and the text is edited and deleted