As we all know, the "Tianjin Three Absolutes" are dog buns, eighteenth street twist flowers, and ear and eye fried cakes, whether it is taste or popularity, these three are the best in the country, attracting countless domestic and foreign tourists to rush to visit. In addition, the founders of these three stores are also a model of self-made, and their love of food is very enjoyable, even after 100 years, their fame has not diminished in the slightest. However, compared to the latter two, the dog ignores the bun but some "can't sell", from the feedback of customers, they seem to be quite critical of the dog, what is going on?
According to the "Chronicle of Things", "Zhuge Liang marched south and took the face to paint the head of the person to sacrifice." That is to say, the birth of the bun is related to Zhuge Liang. After Liu Bei's death that year, Zhuge Liang carried the banner of restoring the Han Dynasty, but the Shu land was difficult and dangerous, surrounded by wolves, and when he sent troops to the Northern Expedition to Cao Wei, he also had to guard against the invasion of the Southern Yi people. In 225 AD, Meng Yu raised an army to rebel against the Shu Han, and Zhuge Liang quickly sent troops to Nanzhong and began to encircle and suppress Meng Yu. After the seven captures and seven indulgences, Meng Yu was obediently governed and willingly came under the jurisdiction of Shu Han.
Soon after, Zhuge Liang's army marched out and marched towards Chengdu in an orderly manner. However, when the army reached Lushui, it was unable to cross the river, and Zhuge Liang speculated that this was probably related to the killings they had caused before. Therefore, he ordered people to chop the beef and mutton into meat filling, and then wrap it in flour, so that they would become adult heads and worship the river god. In this way, the originally choppy Lushui soon returned to calm, and Zhuge Liang's army also crossed the river smoothly. Later, this sacrifice was called "Brute Head" (蛮頭), which is the "steamed bun" of later generations.
In fact, the "steamed buns" at that time were the buns of later generations, and during the Tang and Song dynasties, buns had become a staple food that only rich people deserved to enjoy. According to the "Record of Mengliang", "The hotel specializes in filling steamed buns, thin-skinned spring cocoon buns, shrimp buns, etc. It can be seen that buns have gradually entered the folk and become one of the dishes in taverns, and the types of meat fillings are also much richer, which must be the wisdom of working people. In the Qing Dynasty, buns and steamed buns were completely distinguished, and there was a saying in the "Qing Barnyard Banknotes": "Steamed buns... No filling, when eating, it will be accompanied by dishes, and the so-called steamed buns in the south... However, it is actually a bun, a bun, and Song already has it. ”
In 1831, Gao Guiyou was born in Xiazhuzhuang (now Wuqing District, Tianjin), directly under Wuqing County, when his father was 40 years old, he was considered an old man, in order to let his son grow up healthily, he gave him a nickname of "dog". However, the Gao family did not have much capital to raise children, gao father was a farmer, not only did he work in the fields all year round, but he could not earn a few dollars, and most of them were taken by the landlords, so it is said that the childhood of the noble friend has always been shrouded in hunger and poverty, and he does not want to get rid of such a life all the time.
During the Daoguang years of the Qing Dynasty, the Gao family fled to Tianjin Wei, where they had no place to live and had been living by scavenging, and Noble Friends were also in this state, slowly growing up. At the age of 15, Gao Guiyou found a job as a buddy in the Liu family steaming shop, and the boss asked him to work in the back kitchen, responsible for some work such as serving dishes and wiping the table. However, Gao Guiyou actually did a miscellaneous job, others bullied him for his young age, so he asked him to do any job, after coming and going, Gao Guiyou had the idea of "stealing teachers".
Just as the so-called "children of poor families have long been home", noble friends have long experienced the cold and warmth of the world, and naturally developed the ability of "looking at the six roads and listening to the eight directions". Three years later, Gao Guiyou resigned, and in the past few years, he has learned the craft of steaming buns through observation, and these teachers in the back kitchen have invisibly become his teachers. Of course, the noble friend who worked in Liu Ji for 3 years also made a sum of money, although it was not much, but it was more than enough to open a shop.
In 1858, Liu Ji went out of business, and Gao Guiyou also set up a small shed in the houjia back street, and after he purchased some utensils for steaming buns, he opened a snack bar specializing in buns, Deju. I have to say that the craftsmanship of Noble Friend is really good, he was born poor, honest, never sneaked in the taste and quality of the bun, although the profit is less, but can not stand the return of customers more. Over time, the Deju slowly became popular, and Gao Guiyou did not hire employees, but was still busy alone, he steamed buns while selling buns, and did not even have time to talk to customers
Later, in order to solve the problem of receiving money, Gao Guiyou put a bowl in the window, and how much money the customer put into the bowl, he gave how much money of the bun, so that he could be much easier. In fact, the reason why Noble Friends do not hire employees is only because he can't trust the craftsmanship of others, it was the golden period when he created the signboard, absolutely can not make a little mistake, although a person is a little busy, but at least the reputation is established, with this layer of relationship, repeat customers will be more and more.
However, everything has advantages and disadvantages, although the buns made by noble friends are delicious, his "indifferent attitude" of ignoring people is also quite dissatisfied, and over time, the outside world has come out with such a sentence: "Dogs sell buns, ignore everything." Later, in order to be smooth, people directly condensed this sentence into "dog ignore", and the Bun of Deju also became a bun of Dog Ignore. In 1918, Gao Guiyou died, and because he had no children in his life, he regarded gao Jinming, a friend in the shop, as a righteous son, and passed on the bun shop to him.
In the war years, the dog ignored the bun several ups and downs, first from prosperity to decline, and then from decline to prosperity, except for a few stores that still exist, almost all of them have closed. In 1956, deju bun shop and several other bun shops with good taste, under the leadership of the relevant departments, set up a unique Tianjin bun shop, and was named "dog ignore" words. After the reform and opening up, the dog bun has grown again, and while making a name for itself, the audience group is also gradually developing and growing.
However, Dog Buli, who was once known for its "thin skin filling and large eighteen folds", gradually stepped down the "altar", and on the basis of the traditional practice of steaming and selling, Dog Bu ignored a series of quick-frozen and sauce-brine products, and the style dropped several steps in an instant. In addition, the price of the dog's disregard for buns is also beyond the acceptance of ordinary people, a cage of buns is often dozens of large, or even hundreds of list prices, invisibly dissuading most of the admiring diners. Also, the dog ignores the price increase, the taste and production process are not as good as before, eating is no different from the general bun, naturally no one buys it.
Finally, it is the service of the dog that ignores the bun, in this era of "experience is king", only to make people feel at home, can people recognize from the heart, right?