There is such a passage in the "Book of Vegetable And Food Drama": "Xinjin leek yellow world has nothing, the color is like goose yellow three feet, the East Gate meat is more amazing, fat and beautiful does not reduce the beard and sheep puff pastry." "
As early as ancient times, people have studied food. In the course of 5,000 years of history, a variety of local cuisines have continued to develop and become cultural treasures passed down to the present day.
There is a kind of snack that makes Empress Dowager Cixi praise, Chairman Mao is satisfied with the local characteristics after eating, but now the business is dismal and unattended, and even faces the crisis of closing the door, it is the dog in Tianjin who ignores the buns.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="3" > has a long history of love, and the taste changes between legends</h1>
Dog bun is a traditional snack in Tianjin, founded in 1858 AD. The founder's name is Gao Guiyou, born in 1831 in Xiazhuzhuang, Wuqing County, whose father is old and has children and loves children very much.
As the old saying goes, "It is good to feed the milk name of the lowly", he gave the noble friend a milk name "dog", hoping that his son would be able to grow up safely and vigorously even if he was born in an era of war and chaos
At that time, China, still under the rule of the Xianfeng Emperor of the Qing Dynasty, experienced the baptism of fire from the British and French allies.
Tianjin, as the gateway to Beijing, also known as the "ferry port of tianzi", when Tianjin was opened to Britain as a treaty port by the Qing government in the Treaty of Tianjin, the port terminal in Tianjin became the busiest place every day.
The workers at the dock have a meager daily income, and if they want to eat hot food, they can only go to the Qinlou Chu Pavilion or restaurant. However, such a place is time-consuming and expensive, and it is not suitable for the hard-working working class.
There will be a market where there is demand, and gradually a lot of hot snacks have been derived along the Tianjin dock, among which buns have become a highly praised representative of many snacks.
At the age of 14, Gao Guiyou came to the Liu family steaming food shop on the edge of the South Canal in Tianjin to make a young man, and the noble friend with skillful mind and sharp legs and feet was deeply loved by the master. Seeing the noble friend's down-to-earth and willing to learn attitude and hard-working quality, the master often pointed out this young and willing guy.
As the days passed, the craftsmanship of Noble Friends became more and more exquisite, and the skin of the bun made was thin and stuffed like a chrysanthemum, the outer skin was soft in taste, and the inner filling was fragrant and attractive.
In this way, after three years of studying art, Noble Friends officially graduated and opened his own bun snack shop "Deju No.".
In the busy and lively dock, the craftsmanship of the "Deju" is famous, the shop mainly plays a fresh meat bun, the filling is made of fresh pork fat and lean, fat but not greasy and thin and not chai, accompanied by freshly boiled bone broth or belly soup, small ground sesame oil to increase the fragrance, special soy sauce to freshen, onion and ginger to dissolve the greasy to fishy.
Diners who have eaten can't help but give a thumbs up, and even praise his family's bun color and flavor are outstanding, making people linger.
Sometimes there are too many customers, noble friends are too late to take care of guests, busy with one delicious bun after another, everyone jokingly called noble friends: "Dogs sell buns and ignore people"
After coming and going, the bun shop of noble friends has the name of "dog ignore".
Not only is it rumored in the world, but the buns of noble friends have also become a praiseworthy product among the nobles of the palace. Yuan Shikai, while serving as the governor of the Qing Dynasty, trained troops in Tianjin and inadvertently tasted this delicious snack and offered it to Empress Dowager Cixi for the sake of flattery.
After tasting it, Cixi was also full of praise, and personally inscribed a poem, saying: "The beasts in the mountains are geese in the clouds, the cattle and sheep on land are fresh on the seabed, and the dogs do not pay attention to the incense, and the longevity of food is also." "
In 1916, Gao Guiyou died of illness and handed over his life's work "Dog Ignore" to his son Gao Jinming to inherit. Gao Jinming, who inherited his father's business, did not delve into the craft like his father, but devoted most of his energy to how to improve economic efficiency.
After his father, Gao Guiyou, died of illness, Gao Jinming set up a semicolon on East Street in Nanshi in the following year. In 1932, the location of the main store was moved to the mouth of the Beidaguan Bridge.
With the fall of the Qing government to the establishment of the Provisional Government of the Republic of China, the situation was turbulent, and with the continuous establishment of semicolons to change addresses, many secret recipes were also lost in the process.
In essence, from the moment Gao Guiyou handed over the "dog ignore" to his son Gao Jinming, the "dog ignore" has already undergone a qualitative change.
In 1947, Gao Jinming handed over the "dog ignore" to his son Gao Huanwen to inherit, due to poor management, the dog ignored the bun and went out of business, and the "dog ignore" after three generations of hands went into decline.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="8" > the country to give new life, a century of flavor to inherit</h1>
In 1949, the People's Republic of China was founded, China began to embark on the road of rich and strong development, with the continuous recovery of the economy, in 1956, Tianjin Municipality took the dog buns into national ownership and relocated the store to Shandong Road in Heping District, and later set up a branch in Nanshi Food Street.
The strong support of the state has made the original lifeless dog bun reborn, the dog ignores the right and wise development path, and the breeds it operates are also innovating on the basis of inheriting the tradition, and gradually form 6 categories and 98 varieties of buns.
The development of Dogpath is booming, becoming the leading representative of Tianjin's landmark cuisine, and foreigners who come to Tianjin must go to Dogpathy to taste it, in order to be called a worthwhile trip to Tianjin.
Not only do ordinary people love to eat, But Chairman Mao is also very fond of dogs ignoring buns. In 1973, Chairman Mao happened to talk about Tianjin cuisine, especially mentioning that dogs ignore the delicious taste of buns, so Wu Liandeng, the administrator of life, went to Tianjin to buy back dog buns for the chairman.
In the Spring Festival Gala sketch, Feng Gong's sentence: "Thin skin stuffing big eighteen folds" made the reputation of the dog ignored to a higher level. The notorious Dogburi Bun is not only a symbol of Tianjin's local cuisine, but also a traditional intangible cultural heritage of China.
In 2008, it was awarded the chinese century-old brand name, and in 2011, it was awarded the national intangible cultural heritage. "Dog ignore" is getting stronger and stronger, and there are more and more labels on the body, from bun shops to large restaurants, from regionalization to nationalization.
With the opening of the first branch in Korea and the opening of a branch in Japan, Dogburi buns have also occupied a place in overseas markets since then. But such a prosperous scene did not last long, and gradually the development of dog disregard went downhill.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" data-track="11" > the original intention has changed, and the value is not cheap</h1>
The taste of the food itself is the key to the love of diners for the store, but the taste of the dog ignoring the bun has lost its original flavor with the loss of time, the salty and fresh inside is not as soft as before, the thickness of the delicate soup in the shape has plummeted, and there are fewer and fewer repeat customers.
Dog bun is largely dependent on the "Chinese time-honored brand" this golden signboard, which is also many consumers willing to taste the dog bun does not contain copper odor of the pure simplicity.
In 2016, DogBuri Bun was busy with the listing of the third board of enterprise transformation, in order to dominate the chinese time-honored plaque but did not have corresponding outstanding products, resulting in its original status in the hearts of the people of Tianjin.
In the process of enterprise transformation, we pay attention to product innovation, ignoring the original pure taste and simple ingredients. Although fresh taste can arouse the interest of the public, the preciousness of classics will never be replaced.
A variety of steamed bun categories are complex and varied, the materials are not exquisite, the classic inheritance lacks east and west, and it is no longer like the original taste, leaving the original heart, and losing the true taste.
As a century-old brand, the price of dog buns after the "hot" soared, a plate of fried peanuts to 58 yuan, ordinary fresh meat stuffed buns for 46 yuan, a total of more than 120 yuan of sky-high prices, a Tianjin pancake fruit to 18 yuan, more than double the authentic snacks on the South Building pancake stall.
Such a price far exceeds the average price of the product in the market, and even as a century-old brand with a brand blessing aura, such a price is also ridiculously expensive for normal people.
Mr. Zhang Yansen, the chairman of Dog Ignore, publicly responded in 2017 to the high price of Dog Ignore. Mr. Zhang Yansen said that the dog ignores the bun must break the "old brand" is the cheap stick to the idea, for the long-term development of the old brand, it must be allowed to have a profit margin of appreciation, under the premise of ensuring quality, there is a reasonable price.
Such a price is not close to the people for ordinary people, and for tourists from other places to Tianjin, they are not even willing to buy such expensive buns, and the obvious price is not worth the money to make the wind rating of dogs ignoring buns worse and worse.
In contrast, Zhang Ji Bun Shop, which is also a veteran bun in Tianjin, and Qingfeng Bun, who was personally visited by Premier Zhou, have successfully taken root in the hearts of the people of Tianjin with their pro-people prices and delicious taste, and have also become the "flat replacement" for foreign tourists to punch Tianjin's landmark snack dog to ignore the bun.
Eating, not only the flavor of the food, but also the comfort and pleasure of the service experienced when coming out to eat. With the development of society and the improvement of the quality of the population, the overall quality of the service industry is also growing. Although not all of them are highly educated, at least they are all polite and polite.
Some store dog ignoring waiters are pointed out by netizens on major catering websites with indifferent attitudes, low service enthusiasm, ignoring customer requests for help or ordering, snobbish eyes, slow serving speed, and arrogant attitude.
These worst evaluations of the service industry almost all appear in the description of the dog ignored by the masses, and the service attitude of the century-old brand is not as good as that of ordinary small shops, which is chilling.
Recently, a branch of dog disregard has been written off and closed by the head office, which proves that the result of dog disregard for profit and quick success has actually caused economic losses.
Today's dogs are not ideal to make a comeback has been relatively difficult, after all, the image of the century-old brand has almost collapsed in people's minds, and the accumulation of other brands and the discouragement of customers have become its biggest resistance.