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Tan | on Guoxue on the "Lightness" in the Four Famous Works

The repeated epidemics have disrupted the rhythm of many people's lives and made people's mood fluctuate. At this moment, you may wish to read the "light" in classic literature.

Tan | on Guoxue on the "Lightness" in the Four Famous Works

The explanation of "light" in the "Explanation of Words and Words of the Water Department" is: "Light: thin taste also." Duan Yujie's "Notes on the Interpretation of Words in The Sayings": "Thin taste also." The opposite of the sauce also. Then further explain that "醲", which belongs to the unitary department, means "thick wine", that is, a wine with a strong taste. In traditional Chinese literature, "lightness" is not only a quality, but also a realm. Yuan Hongdao of the Ming Dynasty wrote in the "Quotations from the Manuscript of Xingsu Garden": "One change and resignation, then change and reason, three changes and I am the meaning of the text, such as the extreme of water is light, and the pole of basho is empty, the opportunity is occasional, and the text is suddenly born." ”

In Chinese literature, especially in the four famous works of classical novels, "light" also has its own special taste.

"Romance of the Three Kingdoms": Ome boiled wine is light for health

The most acclaimed food scene in "Romance of the Three Kingdoms" comes from the twenty-first "Cao Cao boiling wine on heroes, Guan Gong earns the city and chops the car".

After Liu Bei met Tianzi, "he also prevented Cao Cao from plotting murder, so he planted vegetables in the back garden and personally watered them, thinking that it was a trick for Tao." One day Liu Bei was pouring vegetables in the back garden, and suddenly a group of soldiers sent by Cao Cao invited him to the back garden of Cao Mansion. Cao Cao asked Liu Bei, "Do a good job at home!" It frightened Liu Bei's face like earth, but Cao Cao pulled him to the back garden and praised him, "Xuande Xuepu is not easy!" "That's reassuring. Although there is no vegetable garden in Cao Cao's back garden, there is a small pavilion, in which "a bottle has been set up: green plums on the plate, a bottle of boiled wine", so "the two sit opposite each other and drink happily".

It is worth noting that "plum boiled wine" does not cook green plums in wine to obtain the sweet and sour taste of "plum wine". Cao Cao is a noble man, and the wine and food in the family are naturally sufficient, so why use green plums to send wine? Two interpretations can be derived from the text. First of all, Ome is an embellishment of the seasonal feast at the turn of spring and summer, as written in Yan Shuzi's "Appeal to Heartfelt Feelings": "Ome is new when cooking wine, and the weather is full of spring." Under the strange flowers in the south of the east city, meet the people who are interested. "Secondly, Ome is also the origin of the hero of the boiled wine theory. When Cao Cao took Liu Bei to the back garden, there was this explanation: "When I saw the plums in the branches, I suddenly felt that when I was marching on Zhang Xiu last year, there was a shortage of water on the road, and the generals were thirsty; I had a plan in my heart, and I pointed out with a whip: 'There is Merlin in front. When the sergeant smells it, his mouth spits, and he is not thirsty. Seeing this plum today, you must not fail to appreciate it. It is also worth cooking wine, so I invite Jun Xiaoting for a while. This passage is the origin of the idiom "looking for plums to quench thirst". However, Cao Chengxiang re-mentioned the old matter to Uncle Liu Huang here, and looking at the qingqing plums seemed to blend in the scene, and the meaning of the next was also to demonstrate and show goodwill.

Look at "boiling wine" again. We already know that the hero of the boiling wine theory is at the turn of spring and summer, not the situation of "warm wine cutting Huaxiong" in the cold winter. The two drank not liquor made by distillation, but rice wine made of rice or rice, with a low degree. The vessel for holding the wine is also a bronze wine bottle, which is convenient for direct heating. As Cao Zhi's poem "Seven Revelations" describes: "Flourish with a green bottle, and carve it at your discretion." Floating ants are boiling and fragrant", and the "floating ants" are impurities such as rice grains in wine, not real ants. The function of boiling wine is to distill and exert the impurities in the wine, so that the wine taste is more mellow and rich, that is, it becomes "pickled", which is the opposite of "light".

As the taste of wine grew stronger, the tension in the conversation between the two increased. Cao Cao, from the rainstorm to the clouds of the dragon in the sky, borrowed the theme to play the hero of the world, led Liu Bei to discuss the situation in the world, and commented on various heroes. Cao Cao suddenly said in a startling voice: "Heroes today, only the king and the ear!" After hearing this, Liu Bei "was taken aback, and the spoon he was holding in his hand did not feel that he had fallen to the ground", but he used the rain and thunder to "gently cover up the reason for the loss of the rumors.". TaoGuang cultivated obscurity, calm and calm, Liu Bei with this attitude of not being enthusiastic about fighting for fame and profit, and finally escaped from Cao Cao's control and achieved three points of the world.

There is another very interesting example of "light" in the Romance of the Three Kingdoms, which is still related to Cao Cao, from the fourteenth time "Cao Mengde moved to Xu Du, and Lü Feng first attacked Xu County by night".

Cao Cao's troops were outside Luoyang, and Tianzi sent an envoy, Dong Zhao, to announce Cao Cao's entry into the palace. The first impression of Cao Cao and the angel meeting was that "the man had a clear eyebrow and a full spirit", thinking of the current state of famine, "bureaucratic soldiers and civilians, all hungry, why should this person be fat?" Therefore, before talking to each other about state affairs and government affairs, first ask for advice on how to maintain health. The answer was: "There is no other way, only thirty years of food." "Eat lightly" refers to a light diet with low salt and little oil.

During the Two Han Dynasties and Three Kingdoms period, the sources of salt were mainly sea salt and well salt, there are clouds in the "Records of History", and there is "Sea Salt Rao" east of Pengcheng, which refers to the Xuzhou area adjacent to the East China Sea, which is also the place where the Yellow Turban Army revolted. Dong Zhao was born in a high gate, and there was no shortage of salt in his home, and low salt and light food were not a last resort, but intentional. According to historical records, Dong Zhaosheng died from 156 to 236, serving Yuan Shao, Zhang Yang, Cao Cao, Cao Pi, and Cao Rui. In the chaotic world of the Three Kingdoms with high mortality rate and short life span, Dong Zhao, who lived to eighty years of life, can really be said to be a health master.

"Water Margin": Fade out of the bird Sour and sweet taste

The various people and horses in "Water Margin", Liangshan Juyi, drinking wine and eating meat in large pieces, are full of pride, and seem to have nothing to do with "light". The most interesting plot in the book, on the contrary, is the contempt for "light", which is found in the fourth time "Zhao Yuanwai rebuilt Wenshu Monastery, lu zhishen made a big fuss about Mount Wutai".

Lu Da, who was once under the jurisdiction of Wu Ti, was introduced by Zhao Yuanwai to Wutai Mountain, and was given the Dharma name "Zhi Shen" by the elders. As a senior foodie, Lu Zhishen heard everything and felt that it was related to eating, the most interesting thing was that in the Buddhist field, the two same door persuaded ZhiShen to learn Zen ineffectively, saying "Zenzai" and "Bitterness", but instead made Zhishen mistakenly think that the other party said "Eel", thus thinking of delicious Tuanyu: "Tuanyu has a big belly, and it is fat and sweet, delicious, and it has to be 'bitter'." ”

Four or five months later, in the early winter, the sky was clear, Zhishen changed his clothes, walked out of the mountain gate, and began to miss the wine and food. "Letter walked to the pavilion in the middle of the mountain, sat on a lazy stool, and thought, 'What a dry bird!' I used to drink good wine and good meat, and I didn't leave my mouth every day, but now I was a monk, and I was hungry and dry. In the past few days, Zhao Yuanwai has not let people send some things to eat with the sprinklers, and the birds have faded out of their mouths. It's better to get some wine to eat in the morning and evening. ’”

Coincidentally, at this time, a man was carrying a barrel of wine up the mountain, planning to sell the wine and eat it with the temple helpers. Zhi Shen tried to buy wine, kicked at the crotch of the wine seller, "Put those two barrels of wine on the pavilion, pick up the spinner underground, open the lid of the barrel, and just scoop cold wine to eat." When there is no shift, two large barrels of wine eat one barrel. "There was no wine dish, the result of drinking a barrel of cold wine on an empty stomach, natural wine gushed up, and the flower monk made a big fuss about Mount Wutai and broke into a catastrophe."

Tan | on Guoxue on the "Lightness" in the Four Famous Works

In addition to the heroes of the grass, "Water Margin" also has a very vivid description of the life of the city. In the twenty-fourth episode of "Wang Po Is Greedy and Bribes, Brother Yun Is Not Angry at the Tea Shop", there is a description that highlights the strong taste of food: Wu Dalang and Pan Jinlian's neighbor Wang Po opened a tea house and received a guest Ximen Qing who came three times and had no intention of eating and drinking only female color.

The first time, "I saw that Ximen Qing turned around and stepped into the Wang Po Tea House, so he went to sit under the water curtain inside", this time Ximen Qing intended to inquire about the enchanted woman he saw last time, and asked questions and answers back and forth, and then left after inquiring clearly. Less than two hours later, Ximen Qing came to the shop for the second time, but sat not under the water curtain, but facing the front of the Wu Gate. Wang Po waited for a while this time before coming out to entertain, the two dialogue around "Mei / Media", homophonous pun, but has not yet cut to the main topic of seducing Jin Lian: Half a break, Wang Po came out and said: "Big official, eat a plum soup? Ximen Qing said, "It's better to add more acid." Until it was late in the day, Ximen Qing visited for the third time, and the princess said, "Great official, how about eating a hehe soup?" Ximen Qing said, "Best." Sweeten the dry lady. ”

The plum soup and hehe soup here are the real soups of the Ming Dynasty tea houses. Plum soup is sour and thirst quenches thirst, and hehe soup is a sweet soup, the name implies harmony and auspiciousness, and also symbolizes yin and yang harmony. Ximen Qing came to the tea house three times in the morning, afternoon and evening, and specifically said that the plum soup should add more acid and the hehe soup should be sweeter, which shows that he does like "heavy taste".

"Journey to the West": 囫囵仙果斋饭 is salty and light

In Journey to the West, the most voracious and lustful character is naturally the Eight Commandments of the Pig. The afterword that describes the gluttonous diners who do not understand the taste of the delicacy and the violent nature of the heavenly things, "The Eight Precepts of the Pig Eat Ginseng Fruit", comes from the twenty-fourth time "The Great Immortal of Wanshou Mountain stays behind his old friend, and the Wuzhuang Guan Xingxing steals ginseng".

The specialty of Wuzhuangguan in West Niuhezhou is "Grass Return Dan", also known as "Ginseng Fruit", which blooms for three thousand years and bears fruit in three thousand years. Dao Tong ordered his master to lay the fruit and offer it to Tang Monk for enjoyment, but Tang Monk saw that the fruit had a human form and refused to eat it. In order not to waste, the Daoist children hid in the room and ate themselves, but they were seen by Sun Xing. Lao Sun inquired about the land and understood, secretly laid three fruits, and sat in line with two disciples to share the fruits. The Eight Precepts, "The Tongue of the Hub, Swallow the Stomach", came to ask the two brothers what they ate.

Tan | on Guoxue on the "Lightness" in the Four Famous Works

In fact, this fruit is mainly based on longevity and longevity, and how the taste is natural cannot be deeply investigated. But the eight precepts of the hungry mouth did not know it, ate the effect, but also tasted, and complained that "the ginseng fruit is not happy to eat, and it is good to eat another one." Heard by Dao Tong, he found that the ginseng fruit had been stolen, and there was a dispute, and Goku was angry and pushed the fruit tree down, slapping it twice. The two Daoist children decided to leave the four masters and apprentices for the night, lock the door and close the house, and wait for the Lord to return the next day to deal with it. This closed-door dinner is full of nests, but the side dishes have seven or eight plates, and a pot of good tea, specific dishes include "sauce melon, sauce eggplant, rotten radish, vinegar beans, pickled nest, mustard greens", are some sauces, pickled products, the taste is naturally not too good.

The most delicious and exquisite iftar in "Journey to the West" actually appears in the eighty-second "Lady Seeking The Sun, The Yuan God Protects the Dao". Tang Monk was captured by the bottomless white-haired rat spirit, and the goblin ordered his men: "Little ones, come quickly to the vegetarian feast, I have eaten with Brother Tang Monk and become relatives." Sun Wukong, who was incarnated as a fly, found the sad-faced master and proposed to turn himself into a cockroach and fly under the bubbles of wine. He swallowed me in one gulp, and I broke his heart and liver, ripped off his intestines, and killed the goblin, so that you had to get out. ”

This white-haired mouse spirit is "a thousand delicate and ten thousand styles", and even Sun Wukong feels that the master may be moved for a while. Moreover, she also deeply understood the way of "touching a man's stomach", carefully arranged a wine banquet, and explained her good intentions to the Tang monks: "I know that you don't eat meat, because the water in the cave is not clean, specially order the mountain to take the pure water of yin and yang, make some vegetarian fruits and vegetables, and play with you." "Only to see:

Under the Yingmen, embroidered with colorful knots, full of court, incense spraying gold. There are black oil-based tables and black lacquered silk plates. On the table, there are strange delicacies; in the silk plate, there are rare and exotic things. Linqi, olive, lotus meat, grapes, hazelnuts, hazelnuts, pines, lychees, longan, mountain chestnuts, wind ling, jujubes, persimmons, walnuts, ginkgo biloba, kumquat, oranges, fruits are available with the mountains; vegetables are more up-to-date: tofu, noodles, fungus, fresh shoots, mushrooms, mushrooms, yam, yellow essence. Stone cauliflower, yellow cauliflower, fried in green oil, lentil carob, jiangdou carob, cooked sauce. King melon, urn, white fruit, vine. Spin-skin eggplant quail made, seeded winter melon Fang Dan name. Stir in rotten simmered taro sugar and boiled radish vinegar. Pepper ginger is spicy and beautiful, salty and light and flat in color.

From this paragraph, it can be seen that the decoration furniture, cups and plates and utensils in the goblin cave house are exquisite and elegant, the ingredients are novel and diverse, dried fruits and fresh fruits, nuts, vegetables, beans and mushrooms, cooking methods include frying, sauce boiling, simmering, although the seasoning avoids the use of onions and garlic five meats, but the sour, sweet and bitter, salty and light blending is wonderful, with a variety of color texture, it is simply the most beautiful feast in the demon world.

"The goblin showed his sharp jade fingers, held a dangling golden cup, poured it full of wine, handed it to the Tang monk, and cried out, 'Elder brother, wonderful man, please have a cup of wine.'" At this scene, even if it was the holy monk Tang Sanzang, he couldn't help but "shyly answer the wine." In fact, the Tang monks "usually eat vegetarian wine made of grapes", under the guidance of Sun Wukong after the ear root, they also ate this bell wine, "rushing to fill the wine with a bell, and returning to the monster". Although this move had been planned earlier, in fact, Tang Monk still drank a cup with the goblin. It can be said that this may be the most recent experience of Tang Sanzang and the female color in "Journey to the West".

"Dream of the Red Chamber": Tea tasting says that water feelings have faded

In "Dream of the Red Chamber", the ability to taste the taste of water fully reflects the difference in social classes, and the most vivid example is the village girl Liu Grandma who enters the Grand View Garden and is amused by the female relatives of Jia Fu. In the forty-first "Jia Baoyu Tasting Tea Chestnut Cui'an, Liu Grandma Drunken Lying in the Red Courtyard", Miao Yu entertained everyone, cooked a bell of light and elegant old Junmei with the rainwater of the old year, and respectfully invited Jia Mu to drink. Jia Mu ate half a cup, and then handed the residual tea to Grandma Liu for her to taste. Grandma Liu ate it all and smiled: "Good is good, that is, it is lighter, and it is better to boil it thicker." Naturally, it aroused the hearts of the people.

Tan | on Guoxue on the "Lightness" in the Four Famous Works

Jia Mu said that she did not eat the famous non-fermented green tea "Lu'an Tea" produced in Lu'an County, Anhui Province, with a high aroma, which showed that she was tasteful. And a rough person like Grandma Liu naturally can't taste the taste of light tea. Although Jia Mu was born into a noble family, she was not yet a lowly person, and gave Liu Grandma her own residual tea, but showed her pomp and circumstance. On the contrary, Miao Yu pretended to be high and clean, disgusted that the chengyao teacup used by Liu Grandma was dirty, and left it outside, and said to Baoyu, who proposed to give the cup to Liu Grandma: "Fortunately, that cup is something I have not eaten, and if I have made it, I will smash it and I will not be able to give it to him." ”

What is intriguing is that Miao Yu, who pays so much attention to personal utensils, carefully selected a rare cup for Bao Chao Daiyu, but "poured the green jade bucket that he used to eat tea on the previous time to pour the treasure jade". Baoyu is such a delicate and transparent character, he actually does not understand the style, refuses to use gold and jade jewelry "vulgar utensils", and asks Miaoyu to drink tea with other antiques and treasures. This cup of tea, the taste is "frivolous", only because the water source is special, it is five years ago when Miao Yu lived in the Xuan Tomb Panxiang Temple, "the snow on the harvested plum blossoms, a total of that ghostly blue flower urn, always reluctant to eat, buried in the ground, this summer only opened." Dai Yu thought that this water was "the rain of the next year", and was split by Miao Yu's head and said: "You are such a person, you are a great layman, and you can't even taste the water." And Daiyu, who was full of talent and talent, actually did not fight back, and after eating tea, she asked Baochao to leave early.

In the description of "light" in "Dream of the Red Chamber", there is actually another point worth speculating, out of the thirty-first time "tearing the fan to make a thousand gold and laughing, because the unicorn is white-headed double star".

During the Dragon Boat Festival, Madame Wang prepared a family banquet and invited the mother and daughter of the Xue family to attend, during which "Baoyu saw Baochao lightly and did not talk to him", and Daiyu "saw Baoyu was lazy", and she "described it as lazy". Wang Xifeng, who has always been good at invigorating the atmosphere, learned that Madame Wang was uncomfortable for yesterday's Baoyu to tease the matter of The Lady Officiating Jinjun, "and acted with Madame Wang's temperament, and felt even more faint." Since these important people were not interested, the other female relatives also felt "bored", and the feast was "not interested" in this awkward atmosphere.

The following is followed by Bao Dai's attitude towards gathering and dispersing: Dai Yu thinks that when the gathering is happy and scattered, it is cold, and the flowers are cute and happy, so "nature is happy to scatter and does not like to gather"; and Bao Yu "loves to always gather", only wishes that flowers bloom often, people often gather, so she sprinkles her qi on Qingwen, and then gives birth to a play of tearing fans.

It is a pity that Baoyu loves two red-faced talented women who have thin lives, between Bao Dai, the road is narrow, when the love is thick, it may not be long, Jia Mu coldly watched, and there was already a distinction. Qingwen was fierce in nature, and unfortunately died of a vicious illness, and before dying, Baoyu, who came to visit, said: "I knew that I had a false name, so I had a serious idea." "Although Baoyu pities the incense and cherishes the jade, he will eventually enjoy the blessings of the people, although the cold incense flowers are warm, but unfortunately the fate is weak, and eventually disappears into the white expanse of the wilderness." Gentle and rich, a cave of a thousand reds, a sea of love and iniquity, and a thousand yans and sorrows. The big view of the dream coaxed you to sing and I appeared, and in the end it was only flat. (Huangyu)

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