Screenshot of the performance screen of "Only This Green"
The hottest program of the 2022 CCTV Spring Festival Gala is "Only This Green". "Only this green" in the dancer green hair high bun, eyebrow flowing, long sleeves trembling, dynamic and static, with green mountains and green waters of the Chinese painting, so that the viewer has a sense of time and space interlacing, netizens said "beauty crying", and said "directly from cultural self-confidence to cultural expansion", some people began to dig the dance inspiration and behind-the-scenes stories, such as: eighteen-year-old Northern Song Dynasty genius painter Wang Ximeng who is, where is the corresponding real scene of "A Thousand Miles of Rivers and Mountains", how the "green waist" is trained... Not only has a wave of "green waist" challenges been triggered online, but offline performances are also hard to find. For me, "Only This Green" is most impressed by the dancer's high bun, if the dancers do not have a dignified high bun on their heads, the whole dance seems to lose its "high-end", not so "advanced".
What is the high bun in "Only This Green" called? What is the origin?
According to the "Creative Notes" officially released by the Spring Festival Gala, the choreographer explained that the creation of "Only This Green" was inspired by the Northern Song Dynasty painter Wang Ximeng's "A Thousand Miles of Rivers and Mountains", and the fragment of the spring evening performance was derived from the imagination of the green landscape. They extracted the green and green colors from the "Map of a Thousand Miles of Rivers and Mountains", and used the figurative female group to express the image of the turquoise mountains and mountains through group dance. Based on this, the dancers' makeup absorbed some of the characteristics of the Song Dynasty makeup, "A Thousand Miles of Rivers and Mountains" was originally a Song Dynasty painting, and the creator also admitted that they also absorbed and integrated other classical makeup, of which the eyebrow shape is called Yuanshan Eyebrow and the hair bun is called Gao Feng Bun.
Screenshot of the live screen of "Only This Green"
Yuanshan Mei, ancient and existing, is represented by Zhuo Wenjun and Zhao Hede. The Miscellaneous Records of Xijing (written by Liu Xin of the Western Han Dynasty and ge Hong of the Eastern Jin Dynasty) records: "Wen Jun is good, and his eyebrows are like looking at distant mountains." The "Outer Biography of Zhao Feiyan" (the author's name is Han Dynasty Lingxuan) records that Zhao Feiyan's sister Zhao Hede "is curly hair, number new bun; thin eyebrow, number yuanshan dai". The dancer's "distant mountain eyebrows" in "Only This Green" are not much said here, and the "high peak bun" is found in classical makeup and has no basis. Considering that the dance is inspired by the "Thousand Miles of Rivers and Mountains", the dancers show the mountains with layers of mountains, and the eyebrow shape and hairstyle are naturally related to the image of the mountain, so there are "yuanshan eyebrows" and "high peak buns", "yuanshan eyebrows" Archaeological evidence, and "high peak buns" are considered to be original creators.
Can you find similar hairstyles in classic buns?
Although the "peak bun" is not from the classical, similar hairstyles can also be found in the classical bun.
Bun, tong, 紒, ancient common knot, bun character is a later appearance, bun is equivalent to knotted hair, hair knotted, coiled on the top of the head or combed behind the head, different shapes.
In the ancient primitive period, people generally wore hair and distributed, the history of hair knots in the mainland is very long, in the Hemudu culture period, there was a fixed bun or crown hat of the fence, from the jade figurines excavated from the tomb of the women, it can be seen that men and women in the Shang Dynasty have knotted hair, some into braids, some with buns on the top of their heads. There is a ceremony in the "Zhou Li", men and women are about fifteen years old and have their hair tied, women can be allowed to marry, and men can travel to study.
From the Qin Dynasty onwards, the emperor formulated harem hairstyle standards in the form of edicts, and court ladies led the fashion, and with the rise of the living standards of the feudal dynasty, the hair bun categories became more and more numerous. The Notes on Ancient and Modern Chinese records that "after the Edict of the First Emperor combs the Lingyun bun, the three concubines comb the Xian Jiu Bun, and the Nine Concubines comb the Ginseng Bun." The "Makeup Table" also said, "The art of the immortals in the first palace is to comb the immortal buns."
Han Dynasty female hairstyles. The picture is from the Chengdu Museum Yunxiang Clothing Exhibition
In the Han Dynasty, women were popular for hanging buns and high buns (E buns). Generally, noblewomen still have high buns, and commoners have low buns. In the Han Dynasty, the bun was mainly knotted at the end of the hair and hung behind the back. Working women generally wrap only with a scarf and a small amount of jewelry on their heads. The "national standard" set by the emperor is mostly a high bun, and the "Notes on Ancient and Modern China" records that "to the ancestors of Han Gaozu, he also ordered the palace people to comb the holy bun", and "Emperor Wu ordered the twelve sideburns to comb". The "Records of the Makeup Table" records that "when the queen mother descended (Emperor Wu), all the followers flew immortal buns and nine ring buns.". Emperor Hancheng's concubine Zhao Hede "for curly hair, number new bun". "Emperor Hanming ordered the palace people to comb the lilies and buns", "The Ling Emperor ordered the people to comb the Yaotai buns". Meng Guang, the ugly daughter of the hermit Liang Hong," combs the "vertebral bun" and pulls it into a vertebral shape at will, which is relatively simple. Sun Shouchuang, the wife of the great general Liang Ji, "fell into a horse bun" and hung her hair on the side of her head, prompting women in Kyoto to follow suit.
During the Southern and Northern Dynasties of Wei and Jin, Emperor Wu of Wei ordered the palace people to comb the reverse bun and comb the hundred flower buns, and emperor Wen of Wei saw a green snake when he was grooming after Zhen, taking the pan snake as inspiration to create a "spirit snake bun", and the Scare Bun was also popular in the Cao Wei Palace. In the Jin Dynasty, there were hibiscus buns and panhuan buns. In the Northern Wei Dynasty, cross buns and screw buns (screw buns are vertically coiled on the top of the head, which should be influenced by the flesh bun on the top of the Buddha's head). During the Southern Dynasty Song Dynasty, there were folk women combing flying buns. When Emperor Wu of Liang ordered the palace people to comb back the heart bun and return to the real bun, there was a comb in the Chen Palace with a cloud bun.
In the Sui Dynasty Palace, nine true buns, eight buns, flip buns, sitting buns, side buns, Ling virtual buns, Xiangyun buns, Chaoyun near the bun and so on.
Tang Dynasty female hairstyles. The picture is from the Chengdu Museum Yunxiang Clothing Exhibition
By the Tang Dynasty, the Tang Dynasty Duan Chengshi, Yu Wenshi and the monographs on the study of hair buns, "Bun Products" and "Makeup Table Records", respectively, included more than 100 kinds of hair bun categories. During the reign of Tang Gaozu Wude, the palace was popular for semi-flipped buns, anti-bun buns, and leyou buns, during the Xuanzong Kaiyuan period, combing double beards and looking at xian buns and Uighur buns, Yang Guifei often wore false sideburns, and also made sad buns, and during the first year of Emperor Dezong's zhen, combing back to the bun and sweeping the makeup bun. At the end of the Tang Dynasty, it was popular to throw family buns, and the "falling buns" evolved from the "falling horse buns" (falling horse buns) were also very popular during the Five Dynasties of the Tang Dynasty.
During the Song and Ming Dynasties, the popular hair buns of Han women included Chaotian Bun, Tongxin Bun, Lazy Comb Bun, Di Bun, Peony Head, Picky Heart Bun, Loose Sideburns flat bun, etc., in addition to simple hairstyles such as cloth buns (buns) and tied hairstyles.
The semi-flipped bun or peak bun prototype that was popular in the early Tang Dynasty
The above is a rough introduction to the popular buns of the past dynasties, of which the half-turn bun (also known as the single knife half bun, or single knife bun) that was popular in the early Tang Dynasty is most similar to the peak bun in "Only This Green".
Mural of the tomb of Princess Xincheng, daughter of Emperor Taizong of Tang
Mural of the tomb of Princess Yongtai, the granddaughter of Wu Zetian
The semi-flipped bun belongs to the anti-fold combing method, which is flipped outward from bottom to top to the top of the head when combing the hair, resembling a flipped lotus leaf, which evolved from the Sui Dynasty to turn the lotus bun and was popular in the early Tang Dynasty. Duan Chengshi's "Bun Dumplings" records that "there are half-turned buns in Gaozu Palace", and Yu Wenshi and the "Makeup Table Record" say that "Tang Wude combs half-turned buns". It can be seen from the excavated figurines and mausoleum murals that from Tang Gaozu to the Wuzhou Dynasty, half-turned buns are very popular. In the murals of the tomb of Princess Xincheng, the daughter of Emperor Taizong of Tang, there are many half-turned buns, and in the murals of the tomb of Princess Yongtai, the granddaughter of Wu Zetian, there are also combed half-turned buns, in addition to single screw buns, double screw buns (there are also researchers who call them shock buns) and so on.
Tang Sancai combed half-turned bun figurines
There are also unearthed Tang Sancai figurines, and there are also many ladies who comb and half-turn their buns.
Like the peak bun in "Only This Green", the half-turned bun may also be a wig, after all, it is not a surprising amount of hair, it is impossible to comb into this kind of high bun. Today's wigs, ancient called vice (vice 贰, 副笄), braiding (tong braid), Han called wig, because of the bun, silk, knot common, also known as false knot or false knot. The Jin Dynasty was popular for braiding buns, the Tang Dynasty was popular for righteous buns, ming known as buns, and the two heads and flag heads of Manchu women in the Qing Dynasty were seriously adulterated, which was actually a wig. The New Book of Tang records that Yang Guifei often used a wig as jewelry, and the good yellow skirt, close to the costume demon, when people said: "The righteous bun is thrown into the river, and the yellow skirt flows by the water." This nursery rhyme in the last year of Tianbao foreshadows the tragic end of Yang Guifei with an abandoned wig and a yellow skirt.
Cover news reporter Wen Kanglin