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The customs of La ri change: from drinking and revelry to drinking porridge for health

January 10, the eighth day of the first lunar month.

Entering the waxing moon is the year,

There are many important days in the waxing moon,

The first one is the Lapa Festival.

The customs of La ri change: from drinking and revelry to drinking porridge for health

December of the Qing Dynasty December Order

On the eve of Lapa Ba, the adults of every household are busy boiling Lapa Ba porridge. By the next morning, you can drink the steaming sweet and delicious porridge.

Drinking Laba porridge on a la-ri basis is a tradition that has lasted for thousands of years, and this custom has existed as early as the Song Dynasty.

However, before the Song Dynasty, people celebrated this festival not to drink porridge, but to drink wine.

Look at the poem "La Ri" by Du Fu, the "poet saint":

"La's daily warmth is still far away,

This year, the waxing sun is completely gone.

Invading the snow color also grass,

Leaking spring light has wicker.

Indulge in drunkenness for a good night,

Also the beginning of the zichen dynasty.

Lipid face medicine with grace,

The green pipe silver popped down the nine clouds. ”

Du Fu's poem was written in December of the second year of Emperor Suzong's reign (757). The first four sentences write about the weather and scenery, and the last four sentences write about the lak-ri festival customs.

On the day of La, the emperor gave officials at all levels lipstick and facial medicine. Lipstick is put into a tubular green tube, equivalent to today's lip balm. The face medicinal silver poppy is a medicine that nourishes the facial skin, equivalent to today's moisturizer.

After retreating, Du Fu hurried home, put wine and dishes on the table, and raised a glass to drink bitterly, hoping to get drunk and rest.

Look again at Tang Renren Deyou's "The Last Sentence of the Longsha Society":

"Outside the curtain, the cold river is thousands of miles,

Seven-person period of wine in the forest.

Ningzhi Lari Longsha Society,

But when the sun fell off the hat. ”

During the Lari Period, Quan Deyu and his confidants drank and wrote poems in longsha ancient land, which was better than meng jia's "heavy sun falling hat" in Longshan in the past.

Tao Yuanming, China's first pastoral poet, the greatest pleasure in this festival is also drinking, and his "Wax Day" poem Yun:

"The wind and snow send the rest of the luck, no harm when the time has been reconciled."

Plum willow sandwich door plant, one has a good flower.

I sang well, and there was so much wine in it.

Not much is known, Zhang Shan has a strange song. ”

During the wax day, the weather is getting warmer, Mei Liu stands between the doors, Tao Yuanming faces the "good flowers", and recites the wine and poetry, which is endlessly enjoyable.

The customs of La ri change: from drinking and revelry to drinking porridge for health

Western Jin Dynasty "He Da Wax" "He Wax" famous post

Feasting and drinking on Wax Day or Wax Day is an ancient style. "Art and Literature Gathering" quotes Han Cai Yong's "Dictatorship" Yun: "Wax people, the end of the year, the feast and drink of the people." The Book of Han says: "The Tian family is bitter, and when the years are fertile, they are hungry and waxing, cooking sheep and lambs, and fighting wine for themselves." ”

In the pre-Qin period, this festival was even a "carnival". The Book of Rites and Miscellaneous Notes contains:

"Zigong looks at wax. Confucius said, 'Give it to you?' "Every man of a nation is mad, and he gives him pleasure in the unknown." The Son: "The wax of a hundred days, the zeal of one day, and the knowledge of Fei Er." Zhang but not flaccid, Wen Wu Fu can also; flaccid but not Zhang, Wen Wu Fu is also. One by one, the way of culture and martial arts is also. '”

After visiting the "Wax Festival", Zigong (Duanmushi) expressed his incomprehension that "everyone in a country is crazy". Confucius taught him that ordinary people worked hard for a year to nourish this day, and the truth is not something you can understand. Every day, I worked intensely without rest, and even King Wen and King Wu couldn't do it. And only indulging in enjoyment without effort, King Wen and King Wu did not do it. There is tightness and looseness, and the combination of work and leisure is the true way of culture and martial arts.

The ancients drank wine or reveled,

Because "wax" and "wax" are the great sacrifices of the end of the year,

After rewarding the hundred gods and ancestral gods,

I also celebrated it myself.

Although it is also the end of the year,

But "wax" and "wax" were different in ancient times.

Wax: The Book of Rites and Suburban Animals says, "Wax is also the one, Soye." In December, all things are gathered and so forth. The objects of the wax festival include the gods of the Shennong clan, Houji, Tiger, Cat, and, which are closely related to agricultural production. Because there are many gods to be sacrificed, there is a saying of "wax sacrifice to hundred gods". And because the "wax festival" is a thank you to the gods who bless agricultural production and celebrate the harvest, the scene is very lively, like a carnival.

La: The Eastern Han Dynasty Ying Shao's "Customs and Traditions" says: "The waxer, hunting also, Yan tian la took animals and animals to sacrifice their ancestors." That is, to sacrifice the ancestors and the "five gods" with hunted animals. The "Five Gods" refer to the god of doors, the god of households, the god of Vesta, the god of the land in the home, and the god of the road.

The customs of La ri change: from drinking and revelry to drinking porridge for health

Song Mi Fu Shu Tang Lin Kuan poem "Wangchun Palace after the Provincial Trial"

Both the "wax festival" and the "wax festival" are held at the end of the year, and the "wax festival" is generally held first, and then the "wax festival" is held. On what day, each dynasty is different. For example, the Eastern Han Dynasty lak day is the third day after the winter solstice, the Tang Dynasty takes the great cold post-Chen day as the lap day, and the Song Dynasty's lap day is set as the day before and after the great cold.

Although the Southern Dynasty Liang Zongyi's "Jingchu Chronicle" has the saying that "December 8 is the Wax Day", this record is not necessarily reliable, and the Lapa Eight is set as the Lap Day, which should only appear in the Song Dynasty.

Before the Song Dynasty, Lari was a big festival, not only wax gods, Lazong Temple, worship zuji, but also feasting, dancing, beating so many activities, of course, to take a holiday. According to records, the Lari Festival lasted for five days in the Qin and Han dynasties, and the Lari Festival during the Tang and Song dynasties was a three-day holiday.

After the Fall of the Tang and Song Dynasties, the Wax Festival gradually declined due to the fact that "wax" and "wax" were not divided, the sacrifice was not fixed, the gods were not sacrificed, and other festivals dispersed their functions. During the Yuan and Ming dynasties, the "wax festival" was abolished, and during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, the "wax festival" was abolished, and from then on, the Wax Day Festival was withdrawn from the list of official festivals with the abolition of the Wax Hundred Gods.

And when the official Lari Festival is gradually declining,

It is the day of the rise of the folk Lapa Festival.

In the Tang Dynasty, the Lapa Festival began to appear,

The festival customs are mainly

Monks bathe and purify their bodies, remove impurities from their bodies, and wash their hearts from dirt.

In the Song Dynasty, Laba Porridge officially appeared. The Records of Dreams says: "On the eighth day of this month (December), the monastery called it 'Lapa Ba'. Temples such as dacha have five-flavor porridge, known as Lapa Eight Congee. ”

The Southern Song Dynasty MengYuan's "Tokyo Dream Record" says: "December ... The eighth day of the first month... The great temples held a bathing Buddhist meeting, and sent the Seven Treasures Five Flavors Porridge and disciples, called the Eight Porridges, which were also eaten by the japanese families who cooked porridge with fruits and miscellaneous ingredients. Since then, Laba porridge has become popular, and various places have imitated it, and with the eighth day of the first month of December as the wax day, gradually forming the Lapa Festival with drinking Laba porridge as the main custom.

The customs of La ri change: from drinking and revelry to drinking porridge for health

Feng Zikai", "Shi Congee"

Originating from the temple, Laba porridge is mainly based on fragrant valleys and fruits as raw materials, and the five flavors are complete, so it is also called "five-flavor porridge". After thousands of years of evolution and development, the methods and ingredients of Laba porridge are more colorful, and the laba porridge in various places has its own characteristics.

In addition, from Lapa Porridge, It has evolved into Lapa Garlic, Lapa Vinegar, Lapa Noodles, Lapa Tofu, etc., making Lapa Festival a food festival with the theme of health care.

Lapa Festival is a typical northern festival,

It is not very popular in the south of our country,

Especially Cantonese people, rarely celebrate the Lapa Festival,

I don't even think that Lapa is a festival,

This may be related to the traditional customs and eating habits of Guangdong.

Northerners believe that "after the eighth year is the year",

Cantonese people think

It is not until the "small year" (the twenty-fourth day of the waxing moon) that it enters the New Year's Pass.

The customs of La ri change: from drinking and revelry to drinking porridge for health

"Village Boy La Drum Diagram"

Text: Guangzhou Daily Xinhuacheng reporter Zhong Kui

Photo: Guangzhou Daily Xinhuacheng reporter Zhong Kui (remake)

Photo: Dai Yujing, editor of Guangzhou Daily And New Flower City

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