There is tradition in the middle of the miscellaneous
Rough in the middle of the exquisite
Retain the taste of Beijing
Passing on the culture of gastronomy
Food culture in Beijing
Same as the Great Wall, the Forbidden City, and the Summer Palace
All are indispensable to the city
Important signs and cultural symbols
And Beijing restaurant famous restaurants
It is the carrier of food culture
Today, The Cultural Tourism Jun introduces you
Famous stores in Beijing
"Quanjude" and "Cheap Fang"
Quanjude
In the movie "Evil Does Not Pressure righteousness", there is a period of Beiping's appearance in the winter of 1937.
That year, there was a famous restaurant in Beiping called "Quanjude". If the protagonist of the story had really existed, he must have known that in the small building at No. 24 of the Meat Market outside the front gate, there was the best roast duck in Beijing at that time.
In 1864, a Hengshui uncle named Yang Shoushan opened a small shop that was about to close down at the front door, changed the original name of the store "Juquande" to "Quanjude", and sold his own roast duck.
Quanjude, since that time, has always been a signboard at the feet of Tianzi.
Later, the emperor was gone, the warlord came, Japan was disturbed, the city gate was opened, the emperor went to the Forbidden City to buy a ticket, he ate roast duck with a ticket, and Quanjude opened a branch... The paper on the month card, page after page, was thrown into the pile of old papers, but the fire of Quanjude's cluster of roast ducks was still jumping.
The wall calendar at the people's homes has turned to today, which is extremely rich in materials and unprecedentedly convenient in logistics.
We stand today and look back, and can't help but sigh that the shrewd and capable Boss Yang of Hebei Province more than 100 years ago was the person selected in the history of Beijing's diet.
That year, when his hometown was plagued by a famine, he left his hometown to make a living in Beijing, did not go to Tongrentang as a small worker, did not go to Wang Zhihe to make soy sauce and tofu, but sold chicken and duck on the street outside the qianmen.
That year, there was already a roast duck from the Nanjing slice of skin duck, which was made without an open flame and made from a fire. Maybe there's also a relatively simple roast duck roasted directly over an open flame. Either way, it must have been a rare and unforgettable delicacy in those days.
Maybe Yang Shoushan tasted this fragrant roast duck one day after having some savings. The aroma of roast duck moisturized Boss Yang's eyes. The beating flames lit up Boss Yang's future path.
Later, due to fate, he became acquainted with Master Sun, who had wandered from the court.
This Master Sun, the full name is not available, but he used to be in charge of roast duck and roast pig in the imperial dining room, and he had a unique roast duck craft. The two joined forces to improve the roast duck process, making the open roast duck a "big coffee" in Beijing's diet. Day after day, Quanjude has almost become a business card of Beijing roast duck.
Before the spread of modern industrial technology, the most beautiful time to taste roast duck was autumn and winter. At this time, the ducks are the fattest, and the quality of the dried duck blanks is the best. Come to think of it, when the golden yellow of the ginkgo biloba leaves dots the blue sky of the capital; the bright white snow reflects the palace walls of the red brick and gold tiles, the flames in the hearth sway the aroma of roast duck, if the world is too peaceful, this should be a picture of envy of the gods.
Gradually, Quanjude formed a standard for roast duck.
● The duck blank should be filled with Beijing.
●To handle duck blanks.
● To be baked with fruit wood.
● The duck should be sliced into clove leaves, and the number of slices should be controlled at about one hundred pieces.
There may be a shadow of the court's diet here.
In fact, Quanjude not only has roast duck, but also a whole duck banquet, a whole duck banquet, and many times of state banquets, after experiencing changes in the times, Quanjude has not only not been forgotten by history, but has become a part of history.
However, there are also some craftsmanship and exquisiteness, which are lost in the long river of history, circling and eventually dissipating.
A hundred years ago, the scene of Beiping, which was full of momentum and staggered heights, could be restored by film means. But what about the vanishing taste? What kind of high-tech can make future generations experience the delicious taste of that time?
If only we could bring more luggage when we were running wildly.
Cheap Shop
There is a Yangjiaoshan Ancestral Hall in Dazhiqiao Hutong outside Xuanwu Gate in Beijing. 600 years ago, Yang Jiaoshan did two things, which are somewhat related to the present. One thing was to impeach the traitor yan Song, and the other thing was to write three words "cheap shop".
Cheap Fang was originally a two-meat shop, specializing in sauce meat marinades, roast chicken and roast duck. This roast duck is not quite the same as our roast duck today, it is closer to the "Jinling sliced skin duck".
The duck variety of Jinling sliced skin duck is different from that of Peking duck, and the duck is not as thick as beijing roast duck. No duck blanks, no sugar water, and no soup.
Simply put, the treated duck is roasted over an open flame. If the meat inside is cooked, then the outer skin must be simmered. Therefore, the sliced duck can only eat a little meat from the outermost belt. The layer of meat inside is not cooked.
When Ming Chengzu Zhu Di moved the capital to Beijing, he brought the technology of Jinling sliced duck and took root in Beijing.
Later, the furnace technique of not seeing the open flame gradually appeared. The furnace chamber is heated to a certain temperature, and then the treated duck blank is hung in the hearth. Close the stove door and use the principle of radiation to roast the duck.
This roast duck technique, which does not see an open flame, is very demanding for a master who masters the temperature of the fire. If the temperature is too high, the duck will be roasted. The temperature is too low and the duck is not cooked.
How this technology matures, there is no historical basis for examination.
However, all changes and maturity are the best arrangements.
For example, in the 600-year-old cheap shop, there are flower-flavored crispy roast duck and vegetable crispy roast duck. The use of carrots, onions, coriander, celery and other vegetables and some flowers to process the duck blank, so that the roasted duck, not only retains the unique aroma and taste of the roast duck, but also reduces the intake of oil and fat by diners. This is a national patent. This patent brings traditional food culture into line with modernity and the world.
Beijing's roast duck shops are blooming everywhere, and the one that really roasts duck with a stew oven is also a cheap shop. As one of the facades of Beijing food, Cheap Fang has received foreign guests many times and undertaken state banquets.
Duck puff pastry
In addition to roast duck, CheapFang has also developed new catering methods such as the Three Kingdoms Cultural Banquet and the Journey to the West Cultural Banquet. Telling stories with ingredients, spreading and promoting traditional culture on the table, novel and unique ideas have been well received by national leaders.
Today's "Eat in Beijing"
That's it
See you in the next issue
Content Source:
"Old Beijing Narrative Food And Famous Food"
Image Source:
China Quanjude
Cheap Square Group