Qian Libin Leaf Yuan
From November 18 to 19, 2021, the "Western Food, Western Rice Books and Restaurants since Modern Times" workshop jointly organized by the Department of History of Fudan University and the Open Asian Culture Research Center of Kansai University in Japan was held online. More than 20 Chinese and foreign scholars from Fudan University, the University of Tokyo, Kansai University, Nankai University and other research institutes attended the meeting, attracting hundreds of listeners to observe online. The workshop was divided into five lectures, and the scholars conducted in-depth discussions and exchanges centered on Western food in modern times.
The workshop opened with a keynote speech by Professor Yoshiichi Ueda (Kansai University), "The Spread and Reception of Western Food in Modern East Asia." Professor Uchida first introduced the books of Western missionaries from Arrillo to Matteo Ricci and Madus, as well as the Western food that appeared in the records of foreign customs by the Chinese people, and these accounts mainly appeared in some anecdotes and popular science books. In addition, Professor Uchida also summarized some comparative tables of Western food translations at that time. Since Western culture was often introduced from the sea, Professor Uchida then introduced the situation of a series of Western restaurants that appeared in Shanghai in the late Qing Dynasty and early Minchu, as well as the Western food culture at that time, and used a series of literature such as novels, miscellaneous notes, and advertisements to present the situation of Sima Road (Fuzhou Road), where Western food was most prosperous at that time, and the famous Western restaurant Yipinxiang at that time. Finally, Professor Uchida introduced the Book of Making Foreign Rice, which was written by Martha Foster Crawford, the wife of the missionary Tarleton Perry Crawford, and was a Western recipe, and Professor Uchida gave a general introduction to its version and content. In addition to the "Book of Making Foreign Rice", Professor Uchida also introduced other Western food recipes such as "Western Recipes" and "New Chinese-English Recipes" that appeared immediately after "Making Foreign Rice Book", comparing the similarities and differences between them. Finally, he also shared the spread of Western cuisine books in Japan and South Korea. Professor Uchida's overview report basically covers most of the content of the subsequent workshop report and is an outline-oriented opening.
Professor Yoshiichi Uchida
The first report was conducted by three speakers, chaired by Professor Yoshiichi Uchida and commented by Professor Dai Jianbing (Hebei Normal University).
The first speaker was Huang Wei, a researcher at the Shanghai Library. Her report was titled "Overview of Chinese Western Recipes in Shanghai Library". She mainly divides the collection of Western food recipes into several categories, and each selects several representative literatures for special introduction. The first is the special Western food recipes since the mid-to-late nineteenth century, including the "Book of Making Western Rice" and "Western Recipes" mentioned by Professor Uchida before, and also found an English recipe that writes some Chinese dishes together (American Red Cross Book of Recipes for the Use of Chinese Food Stuffs). The second type is the Western food menu in the archives, including, for example, the banquet records of the Marine Division's Camp Office in the Sheng Xuanhuai archives, western food invitations, and Puyi's birthday menu. The third category is western recipes in advertising books of some food-related factories. The fourth category is some advertisements and columns related to Western food in newspapers and periodicals. The fifth category is the teaching content of Western food in missionary magazines. The last category introduces historical photographs of Western food.
The second speaker was Huang Xinyu, a graduate student at the University of Chinese in Hong Kong, whose title was "Eating Big Dishes: Western Food Fashion in Modern Shanghai, 1880s-1920s", which mainly discussed the changes in Shanghai's Western food culture after the late Qing and early Ming dynasties. She summed up the popularity of Western food twice, the first of which appeared in the 1880s and 1890s, when Western food entered China as a high-end culture, it needed to face the high-end food culture of Su-style banquets that China already had, but through the promotion of Shanghai Yipinxiang Hotel, which integrated Western food and Western-style entertainment, Western food (big dishes) - integrated with the travel suits of the four roads such as horse-drawn carriage rides and watching dramas - became popular in the cultural elite of Shanghai in the late Qing Dynasty. However, Western food at that time was not the highest and not the only fashion. And the second epidemic was low in the 1910s-1920s. The new atmosphere at this time was the popularity of trams and the rise of civilian entertainment, and the reporter selected the literature of several civilian playgrounds at that time to illustrate the Western food faced by civilians at that time. At that time, Western restaurants also appeared for banquet restaurants for the upper echelons of society and affordable Western restaurants for civilian tourists. But at the same time, there was also a stigma that compared large restaurants with opium smoking, and later associated with the culture of free love.
The third lecture, delivered by Professor Chen Jie of the University of Tokyo, was entitled "Western Food and Western Food Etiquette in < the > of Home Economics (for Families and Schools in the Qing Dynasty)", which mainly introduced "Home Economics (for The Families and Schools of the Qing Dynasty)", a textbook written by Hattori Fushiko, the wife of Hattori Unoyoshi, who had taught at Kyoshi University. Hattori Founded the Earliest Girls' School in Beijing, the Yujiao Girls' Academy, whose students were mainly women from the upper echelons of society, and the expected target of "Home Economics" was also this type of upper-class women. This book attempts to contribute to the prosperity of the country and the rise of women's power by raising the level of education of Chinese women. The book introduces a series of basic knowledge about Western food, which is not mainly about the specific recipes, but about the daily knowledge of the types, identification, nutrition, eating advice and etiquette of Western food, which also includes the introduction of many drinks, snacks and even ice cream. In addition, there is a special chapter in the book that introduces the appropriate etiquette for interacting with foreigners during banquets, banquets, and meals. This is a book that reflects the fusion of Chinese and Western cultures at that time from the perspective of the Japanese.
In the comment session, Professor Dai Jianbing added content about the relationship between home economics at Hebei Normal University and Hattori And his friend Qiu Jin.
The second session of the workshop was presided over by Professor Gao Xi of the Department of History of Fudan University, and Professor Chen Jie made comments.
Dai Jianbing (professor at Hebei Normal University) took the Western food provided by the Zhengtai Railway and the Zhengtai Hotel as the entry point, and used the public goods, newspapers and periodicals of the Republic of China period to discuss the construction of the Zhengtai Railway and the introduction of Western food, the dining car meal on the train, and the impression of the people of the time on the Western food of the Zhengtai Hotel, and put it in the historical process of Shijiazhuang's transformation from a village to a city. The report broadens the horizons of previous research on western food culture in major cities such as Beijing, Shanghai, and Harbin, and is also of great significance for understanding the regional characteristics and complex aspects of Shijiazhuang in the process of modernization. Professor Chen Jie inquired about the residence of foreigners in Shijiazhuang during the Republic of China period, and Professor Dai replied that the overall proportion was not low. With the completion of the railway, Catholic clergy and foreign merchants followed. During the War of Resistance, not counting the garrison, Japanese and Koreans accounted for six percent of the local population.
Guo Lixia (Professor of The School of Chinese Language and Culture of Nankai University) reported entitled "The Stereotyping Process of "Champagne" Words in the Late Qing Dynasty and early Ming Dynasty", based on the search and analysis of databases, Chinese textbooks, Ming and Qing novels and dictionaries, in addition to the phenomenon of similarities and differences caused by the closeness of the pronunciation of "Champion", the translations related to "Champagne" are mainly divided into two categories: "Trilateral" and "Champagne", and the mixed use and competitive relationship of these words in the process of dissemination are sorted out. The report also mentions the important influence of dialects in the transliteration process, corresponding the conversion of "trilateral" to "champagne" with the flow of the word "Champagne" from cantonese to Wu. In this regard, Professor Chen Jie pointed out that Japan also seems to have a "trilateral" translation method, and on the question of whether there is a mutual influence between Chinese and Japanese translations, Professor Guo added that it is necessary to refer to Chen Liwei's discussion on this.
Huang Jiaxuan (Graduate Student, Graduate School of Asia-Pacific Studies, Waseda University, Japan) discusses how frog-eating customs, which were severely criticized and sanctioned in the late Qing Dynasty and early Republic of China, were once again recognized by mainstream society in the 1930s, under the title of "The Revival of Frog Eating: Western Factors in the Transition of Indigenous Food Customs." Behind this conceptual turn, the introduction of foreign frog-eating customs and breeding techniques has played an extremely important role. Frog eating gradually became an innocent consumer behavior, and the discourse system formed by this supporting frog eating quickly replaced the traditional concept of opposing frog eating, and frog eating became a social trend again. However, this kind of "west wind and eastward drift" does not directly act on the local food customs themselves (the Western way of cooking frogs is not accepted by the Chinese people), but realizes the transformation of the discourse system by indirectly influencing the social mentality. Professor Gao Xi asked whether the changes in the customs and concepts of "frog eating" were entirely influenced by the West – for example, whether the marketing promotion of producers promoted changes in perceptions, and whether there were more complex social issues behind the failure of national government policies. In this regard, the reporter stressed that although some manufacturers in Shanghai at that time had publicity attempts, but the intensity was not large; of course, there were factors such as low actual control of the forced change of policy, but combined with the historical context at that time, the influence of Western technology and customs was more important.
Professor Gao Xi
The third session of the workshop was presided over by Professor Zou Zhenhuan of the Department of History of Fudan University, with Huang Wei of the Historical Documentation Center of Shanghai Library as a comment, and Professor Yoshishi Uchida as a supplement.
Hong Shuqian (a graduate student in the School of Humanities of Shanghai Normal University) is entitled "Coffee Culture and the Construction of Women's Identity in Modern China", first introducing the change and stereotyping process of "coffee" as a transliteration, from which to get a glimpse of the acceptance of Chinese society; then discussing how "coffee" has become a new fashion and actively constructs the modern family relationship with women as the core when the National Government calls for a "new life". From a feminist perspective, the report also notes the existence of a "sexual double standard" when the Republic of China newspapers and magazines talk about "cafes" and "coffee girls", and discusses the gender differences in modern coffee culture and the unique situation of women. Professor Huang Wei pointed out that the "Shanghai Coffee Map" published at the beginning of this year may be beneficial for further study of modern coffee culture, and emphasized that there is also diversity within the missionary community that leads the coffee fashion. Professor Zou Zhenhuan said that the word "coffee" also has a genealogy of the Portuguese system in Macao, and the earliest translation of "Canadian Africa" is also from Portuguese. Professor Yoshise Uchida also added that in the Portuguese-Chinese dictionary, there is indeed a translation of "Canfey". In addition, Professor Zou pointed out that Xu Ke's "Qing Barnyard Banknotes (Diet)" was used in the text, and the content in it was actually mostly intercepted from the journals at that time, and it was best to trace the source and make a historical criticism.
Wang Yijie's report entitled "Coffee Stalls in Modern Shanghai: Modern Imagination in the Reflection of Colonialism" by Wang Yijie (an undergraduate student at the Faculty of Letters of Soochow University) examines how the low prices and class openness of the Shanghai coffee stalls from 1944 to 1946 have realized the localization and folkization of "modern" lifestyles, shaping a new consumer culture field. The report also uses advertising information in modern Shanghai newspapers to explore the colonial influence of the "worship of American goods" and the significance of "newspapers and periodicals" as a medium for constructing the imagination of modern life, and through the theory of colonialism, reveals the dilemma of "double-gaze" behind the "backwardness" evaluation of coffee stalls. Teacher Huang Wei believes that a lot of tabloid materials are used in the text, which is worth affirming, but it may also be limited by the curiosity of the tabloids themselves. In addition, all the entrances to "coffee stalls" have new meanings, but they may overlap with the concept of "cafes" in terms of meaning. Professor Zou Zhenhuan also gave the example of the "Yi Poinsettia" restaurant to illustrate that the catering establishment that provides "tea" and "coffee" at the same time is not just a "coffee stall".
Wu Yurui (a graduate student of Jinan University) introduced the important research value of early Nanyang Chinese newspapers and periodicals, taking "Lak Pao" as the main object of investigation, referring to newspapers and periodicals such as "Star Daily" and "Rixin Bao", carefully sorting out and analyzing the Western beverage foreign words that appeared in them, and comparing these foreign words with the entries included in "Modern and Modern Chinese Etymology", and found that some of the foreign word translation forms with overseas Chinese characteristics can be used as the earliest documentary evidence to fill the gaps. From the perspective of dissemination, the large-scale advertisements for foreign wine in the early Chinese newspapers and periodicals occupied a prominent position, which was of great significance to the study of the history of social life in the Nanyang region. Teacher Huang Wei wanted to understand the linkage between the Nanyang region and the mainland in terms of translation and introduction, Professor Zou Zhenhuan added, at that time, Nanyang published a lot of Chinese textbooks, which had a great influence during the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression and could also be paid attention to. Regarding the version of the etymological dictionary used in the report, Professor Zou believes that it is necessary to refer to the latest version as much as possible and grasp the cutting-edge academic information. Professor Keise Uchida added that the translation of the name of "beer" can be referred to the book "Huayi Tongyu" published in Singapore in 1883 (the ninth year of Guangxu).
Professor Zou Zhenhuan
Zhao Huibin (a graduate student of the Research Center for Chinese Social History of Shanxi University) gave a report entitled "Dietary Dilemma: The Encounter of Nutrition Science in Modern Chinese Society", from the perspective of knowledge and discipline transformation, through the analysis of the process of nutrition science being introduced to China since the end of the Qing Dynasty, discussing the reciprocating process of traditional Chinese knowledge concepts in the face of the impact of "Western studies": on the one hand, the construction of the nation-state needs to establish a "scientific" discourse, on the other hand, the innovation and reconstruction of traditional dietary concepts face multiple constraints. In this context, topics such as changes in home economics textbooks, improvements in cooking methods, and debates over "vegetarianism and meat" have taken on a richer dimension. Professor Zou Zhenhuan pointed out that the concepts of "life protection" and "abstinence from killing" that often appear in the discussion of nutrition may not be entirely derived from the Buddhist system, such as the change in values of cattle killing and dog slaughter, but are actually more entangled with the ideas transmitted from the West in the 19th century.
The fourth session was presided over by Professor Guo Lixia of the School of Chinese Language and Culture of Nankai University, and commented by Li Zhiyao, editor of the Social Sciences Literature Publishing House.
Zhu Feng (Professor at Notre Dame University in Kyoto, Japan) mainly discusses the Western food culture in the missionary translation around the "Recipe for Western Law", examines the social repercussions and far-reaching influences of the book after its publication from the three perspectives of editions, advertising and Chinese translations in the book, and expresses sympathetic understanding of the translator's Sinicization in the face of heterogeneous culture. The report also mentions texts such as "Instructions for Visiting Guests", "Western Answers to Questions" and "Book of Making Foreign Meals", which are important materials for understanding Western food culture in Chinese records. Professor Guo Lixia asked why there were a large number of "transliterations" in the "Recipes of Western Law", and Professor Zhu Feng believed that it was mainly because there was no suitable expression for these concepts in Chinese at that time, and in the case of corresponding words in Chinese, it was mostly literal translations. Regarding the issue of Chinese characters corresponding to transliteration, Professor Zhu believes that it is mainly based on the pronunciation of the Shanghai dialect, but because of the difference between the pronunciation in the 19th century and today, it still needs to be carefully compared.
Xie Yi (Chinese language teacher at the U d'A Language Center at pescara Dunantha University, Italy) introduced the irreplaceable "Three Musketeers" in Italian culinary culture and traditional recipes - basil, rosemary and thyme. By comparing the acceptance history of these three spices in the West and China and the different historical and cultural connotations, it is emphasized that these herbs have been mainly used as medicinal herbs in Chinese history rather than as dietary ingredients, which is closely related to traditional Chinese food culture. Professor Yoshise Uchida pointed out that the Italian academic community attaches great importance to the traditional Chinese "Shennong Hundred Herbs Classic", and this work can also be referred to in research. Professor Li Zhiyao stressed that the history of material culture is not only a hot topic in the academic community, but also a popular topic in the publishing industry, and the recently published book "Desert and Table: The Origin of Food on the Silk Road" is also closely related to this topic.
Chen Liying (a graduate student at the Institute of Northeast Asian Studies of Jilin University) used the "Central Hotel" in "Xinjing" (i.e., Changchun) as an example to explore the urban class and cultural consumption of puppet Manchukuo. The report hopes to provide a new dimension for the study of the history of puppet Manchukuo from the perspective of "daily life history", and through the analysis of the urban space, price and consumption level of "Xinjing" and the specific text of "Dedication Table", it shows the "Central Hotel" as a consumption space and the hidden urban class and cultural consumption distinctions behind it. The report also links the upheaval of eating habits in northeast China to the projection of colonial power from a macro to a micro perspective, and explores issues related to colonial reproduction embodied in highly symbolic daily diets. Teacher Li Zhiyao believes that the perspective of daily life and social culture is a good supplement to previous research, but the research review part of the research review is slightly insufficient to sort out the achievements of Japanese academic circles and European and American academic circles, which can be referred to Yue Zeming's book "Planning for the Capital of Puppet Manchukuo". In addition, regarding the literature of the Central Hotel, the book "Dedication Table" is of course very important, and materials reflecting the impressions of customers should also be included in the scope of examination.
Yang Ge (PhD candidate at the Institute of Social and Cultural Research of Macau University of Science and Technology) discussed the influence of the "West Wind gradually moving east" and the formation and development of an international city on The local cuisine style of Harbin in modern times, taking "Huazhu Laoha Cuisine" as an example. The report pointed out that in modern times, Harbin's urban form of "Huayang Miscellaneous Places" has contributed to the collision and integration of Chinese and Russian and even Chinese and Western food cultures, and the final formation of "Huazhu Laoha Cuisine" has realized the transformation from "deep color, juicy and heavy taste" to "bright, smooth and tender and crispy" by absorbing foreign cultural factors. Professor Guo Lixia wanted to know whether the case of "Huazhu Lao Ha Cai" was representative and universal, and the reporter responded that the influence of the west wind and the east wind at that time was indeed not limited to this one case, but the characteristics of various changes were the most obvious in this example, so it was around it, and more comparative research could be carried out in the future.
The report on November 19 was chaired by Professor Chen Jie and commented by Professor Gao Xi.
The first speaker was Professor Masazumi Shioyama of Aichi University in Japan, whose title was "<-Made Foreign Rice Book>Chinese how to express the cooking methods of Western food: A Glimpse into the Transcultural Translation of Modern Westerners" in the book >. In the past, the many-saying "Book of Foreign Rice" used shallow official language, and Professor Yanshan tried to argue the specific characteristics of this "simple official language" or "vernacular official language". The first is that the frequency of occurrence of virtual words is in line with the habits of vernacular mandarin. After that, using the conclusions of Joseph's research, the characteristics of the vernacular dialect in the Book of Making Foreign Rice are discussed from the perspective of the independence of verbs (the need to add a complement to complete the description of an action). Immediately afterward, Professor Yanshan then entered the discussion of the complement, and the large number of supplements also reflected the vernacular and official characteristics of his language. Finally, there is the content of auxiliary words and quantifiers, and the large use of auxiliary words and quantifiers such as "has" and "on" also reflects the strong colloquial language characteristics of the "Book of Foreign Rice". Professor Chen Jie and Professor Yanshan exchanged views on whether the appearance of the linguistic characteristics of this vernacular dialect in the "Book of Making Foreign Rice" is related to the special requirements of Western food, believing that there is such an expression in the original Chinese vernacular, but because the writing is all literary, and the literary language cannot accurately express the process of Western food, the introduction of Western food has prompted this vernacular dialect to be recorded as a recipe on the text.
The second speaker was Professor Tadafumi Tadamitsu Tanomura of Osaka University, whose report was titled "A Brief History of the Chinese Names of Curry", which focused on the translation of curry. As mentioned at the beginning, although curry was originally an Indian cuisine, it was roughly regarded as a Western cuisine at that time because it was introduced by the British. The translation is generally transliterated first and then converted to paraphrase, but curry is the opposite, the first is a transliteration, the first half of the nineteenth century was translated as "yellow ginger", the so-called yellow ginger, now known as "turmeric", is one of the raw materials for making curry, and because the British who like yellow curry regard this raw material for coloring as the most representative material of curry, so the yellow ginger, which is only one of the materials, was selected as the translation of curry. However, by the middle of the nineteenth century, the Guangdong region had translated the words "Jiali" and "Jiali" from Cantonese. By the 1960s there was a translation of the word "curry" in use today. However, the various translations are basically mixed and used. Professor Tanamura speculates that this shift from paraphrasing to transliteration may have changed the translation as Chinese's knowledge of Western food increased, and he discovered that turmeric was only one of the ingredients for curry.
Entering the second half, Yang Yiming of Kansai University first brought "On the Modern Western Food Recipe< The Investigation of the Western Recipe >". Yang Yiming first introduced the process of writing the "Recipe of Western Law", the original foreign language and the wife of the Translator, The Consul of Shanghai, Yi Mengshi, and the life of Yi Mengshi himself. Among them, perhaps due to the consideration of Chinese use, there are certain deletions and changes to the translation of the original book The Oriental Cook Book, and the illustrations have also been deleted. After that, the reporter introduced some of the translation features of the "Western Recipes", such as the conversion of the unit of measurement, the transliteration of ingredients, cooking names and even verbs, and the influence of the Shanghai dialect on translation.
The last report came from Sun Hao's (Kunming University of Science and Technology) "Research on Western Food Literature in modern newspaper space". Bread-related literature was retrieved mainly using the National Newspaper Index database. The reporter mentions that when bread first entered China, it was often translated as steamed buns. After Kropotkin's "Bread Skimming" and other documents were translated into China, Li Dazhao and others gradually associated bread with politics, using bread to refer to people's right to eat. It is later mentioned that bread is used as an image of love in literature, along with reference to people's cultural impressions of the entertainment of bread. Immediately after, the reporter mentioned that since the twentieth century, some ideas have gradually emerged to eat Western food as a sublime foreign, and even extended the hostility to Western food to the cutlery knives and forks of Western food.
After the two lectures, Professor Gao Xi raised questions about several translations of "bread-steamed buns", as well as about nutritional concepts in Western recipes, and Yang Yiming responded by mentioning an article by Jin Yiping, arguing that the translation of bread should come from Macao and should be gradually promoted later. The translation of the "Recipes of Western Law" does not contain much content on the level of nutritional concepts, and the English version has related content. Teacher Chen Jie added that Hattori Fumiko once mentioned the nutritional effects of wine.
Editor-in-Charge: Shanshan Peng
Proofreader: Luan Meng