On November 22, Ma Qingmiao served customers freshly made haggis soup. Photo by Zou Yi, reporter of Shiliuyun/Xinjiang Daily
Tianshan network reporter Yu Mengfan
At 20:00 on November 22, the night in Urumqi city was low. The cold winter wind "blows fast" the hurried footsteps of passers-by. At the entrance of the May 1st Road Pony And Sheepshoe Snack Bar, there are sometimes stopping figures. When they set off again, they had an extra bag of hot lamb's trotters or haggis soup on their hands.
12 tables are filled every day
It is easy to miss when passing by, which is a true portrayal of this shop. The old door frame paint has fallen off somewhat, the cement steps have become potholed over the years, and the signboard has been obscured under the sunshade. Only the cauldron of "grunting" at the door, exuding heat and aroma, beckons old customers to the door. From the night market stalls to the current small shop, this shop has gone through 26 years.
The small signboard is filled with three lines. The first line is the name of the store "Pony And Sheep's Trotter Snack Bar"; the second line is the type of "sheep's hoof, cow's hoof, noodle lung, haggis soup" sold in the store; the third line is an important reason for attracting many diners - "the original Wuyi Night Market Pony No. 41".
In the summer of 1995, 30-year-old Ma Qingmiao set up a stall selling haggis on Wuyi Road. From the warming up in May to the snow falling in October, the spicy and fragrant nightlife lit up the summer night on May 1st Road and also lit up the brilliant scene in Ma Qingmiao's memory.
What she will never forget is that the 12 tables around her stall were all filled with guests, and some customers could not wait for an empty seat to stand and eat, and they could sell up to 500 peppery sheep's hooves in one night. The hard work of her youth made her nostalgic: "I can't take care of eating every day, and I am so tired that I can't speak." But as long as you think of 'today I have earned money again, and I am one step closer to buying a house', I don't feel hungry, and my strength suddenly comes again. ”
"Eat what to sit inside." Rose sweater, red apron, red down jacket. Today, Ma Qingmiao, who is over 50 years old, is still full of enthusiasm when he greets guests. She said that many of the young men and women who had eaten a spicy lamb's hoof for 1.5 yuan and a bowl of haggis soup for 3 yuan on the stall were now retired.
On November 22, Ma Qingmiao poured soup on the boiling peppery lamb's hooves. Photo by Zou Yi, reporter of Shiliuyun/Xinjiang Daily
For a bowl of hot and spicy piping
The old customer Boratti came to patronize again, and went into the house to sit down and order food: "Still the same old way, a bowl of haggis soup, 3 flower rolls." He looked around at the dine-in room with only 5 tables and a somewhat over-decorated style: "From the night market to this restaurant, we old customers are not coming to the environment, but for this old taste." Especially in winter, a bowl of hot haggis soup is drunk, sweating, not to mention how comfortable. ”
In 2011, after 16 years of night market career, Ma Qingmiao opened this small shop on Wuyi Road. Many old customers who have made friends in the night market have a new place that is not afraid of wind and rain.
Ma Qingmiao, who was next to the stove, was under ma Li and prepared the accessories for laying the bottom of the bowl. Shredded silver onion, chopped oily green parsley, drizzled with balsamic vinegar, minced garlic and pepper, and a small spoonful each, and finally poured over the full-stocked haggis soup.
The belly of the tendons, the refreshing black lungs, the soft sheep intestines, the brittle heart tubes, the haggis with different tastes and different toughness collide in the mouth, and the aroma is full between the lips and teeth. The most enjoyable thing is to drink a few mouthfuls of soup, the spicy pepper, the spicy garlic paste, the sourness of vinegar, a few bites of belly, the cold in the body has turned into beads of sweat on the forehead.
Diners with a good meal will also have a spicy lamb's trotter. Simmer for 6 hours over low heat to soak in the flavored aroma and simmer over low heat in a pot at the entrance of the shop. The golden red sheep's hooves are instantly deboned by chopsticks, without chewing many times, almost sucking from the mouth into the stomach, which is very relieving.
In this way, a bowl of haggis soup and a peppery lamb's hoof blocked the winter day outside the door.
Go further and longer
Qi Xiaodong, an old customer, said that after so many years, the taste of this house has not changed.
Without a gap between customers, the clerk Rügen would be busy cleaning up the sheep's hooves. He stood at the table and used a knife to clean the middle part of the sheepshoe nail and cut off the charred part. For 3 hours, he had been standing like this except to greet the guests. When you are tired, you will put your left leg on your right leg; when you are tired, you will put your right leg on your left leg: "Sit and work so that you can't exert yourself." Rügen would say.
Haggis, like trotters, is delicious and difficult to clean. Endure the thick and unpleasant taste of raw lamb tripe and the stickiness on raw sheep intestines. The grease on the raw sheep intestines should be torn off little by little, it is easy to tear the casing with gloves, and the hands have been soaked in the cold water for cleaning haggis for many years, and the pain of arthritis and tenosynovitis is painful to tears. Ma Qingmiao said that the process is very hard, and some restaurants would rather choose to buy goods than spend their own efforts to clean up.
Last year, Ma Qingmiao took a break for a while due to a serious illness. Friends advised her not to worry about food and clothing, and to enjoy the age of retirement life, there is no need to keep it anymore, it is better to close the store and retire, or change to a relaxed business.
She didn't say yes. When she was sick, one phone call after another from an old customer warmed her heart again and again. Everyone was asking the same question while caring about her: "You're not going to open a shop, where are we going to eat this bite?" "After all these years, she has long lived in the house she worked hard to earn money. The customers accumulated over the years have also become friends who care about each other.
"At this age, money has been earned, illness has also been experienced, and insisting on opening a store is no longer simply to make money." Taking advantage of the break, Ma Qingmiao connected to the music player through the Bluetooth of the mobile phone. Accompanied by cheerful Xinjiang dance music, she looked at the mirror on the wall of the dine-in room and brushed her sideburns behind her ears: "As long as you can move, you will continue to dry for a long time." Being remembered by so many old customers is a satisfying and happy thing. ”