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Terroir is small| "sugar fried chestnuts" mixed feeling

author:Zhong Fulan
Terroir is small| "sugar fried chestnuts" mixed feeling

Old time "sugar fried chestnuts" figure Zhongfulan collection

As the old saying goes, "Walk a hundred steps after a meal and live to ninety-nine." Whether or not you can live to ninety-nine, I don't know, this should be left to God to answer. I think that eating dinner activities, especially for people who have been sitting and writing, may be beneficial, at least to promote blood circulation. Now with mobile phones, there are numbers on WeChat, and many people are like the game, walking 20,000 or 30,000 steps a day to compete for the first. I deleted the project without hesitation. How many roads I walk and how I walk are my own business and have nothing to do with others. However, after a meal, you can take a walk with your wife, while keeping yourself healthy, you can also share the time of relaxation after dinner with your family.

Recently, it has entered the late autumn season, the temperature is suddenly high and low, and the fragrance of cinnamon is particularly attractive. I remember that evening, before the palm lamp, out for a walk, attracted by a fragrance, only to see a shop selling "sugar fried chestnuts", I bought 10 yuan of chestnuts, but also counted over a dozen, hot, put in a paper bag, back home quickly finished eating. This reminds me of Fifty or sixty years ago in Shanghai, every autumn, in Xujiahui Hongqiao Road, Huashan Road, selling "sugar fried chestnuts" vendors appeared, at that time, unlike now, it is all iron electric stove turning, turning, and selling.

At that time, the vendors usually built a coal stove and set up a large iron pot next to the fruit shop, as if many of them were big men, holding shovels that were a foot long and about the width of the palm, the polished spatula rhythmically flipped the black fried sand, and from time to time there were chestnuts as bright as amber in the black sand, and the roasted chestnut master also put the shovel into the caramel bucket next to the stove from time to time, dipped in the golden transparent caramel in the bucket, mixed in the sand to continue frying, and a burst of seductive caramel aroma wafted in the air, why is it called "sugar fried chestnut"? Maybe that's where it comes from.

This posture is very attractive, the stall owner selling chestnuts while frying, while shouting, "Sugar fried chestnuts eat cutting? Sweet and sticky sweet sweet sweets fried chestnuts! That fragrance will attract many customers, of course, it is absolutely attractive to the childish schoolchildren, clamoring for adults to buy, and whenever this happens, my kind parents will always fulfill my wishes.

In fact, "sugar fried chestnuts" should be a hype method. The candy is placed to remove the fur from the chestnut shell, and the fried chestnuts are bright and beautiful, and have nothing to do with the sweetness of the chestnuts. Shanghainese have always said that it is "Liangxiang sugar fried chestnuts", where is "Liangxiang"? I still haven't figured it out, some people say that in Tianjin, Beijingers say that they are not in Tianjin at all, in Fangshan County on the outskirts of Beijing, I think, as a customer, the emphasis is on taste, to find out where liangxiang is, it seems that there is no need.

China is the world's largest chestnut planting country, planting history is long, after thousands of years of breeding, chestnut varieties are also many, excellent varieties of about a hundred species, Liangxiang chestnuts are characterized by both sweet and sticky, the most for Jiangnan people taste, so Shanghainese, Suzhou people like to eat. However, reading the history books carefully, the chestnuts in Jiangnan are not inferior, and the Qing Dynasty Jin Youli wrote the "Taihu Lake Preparation" recorded: "Chestnuts out of the east and west mountains, east and west of the mountain are especially good." "Jin Youli is a native of Wu County, familiar with the customs and customs of Suzhou, the chestnuts of the two mountains, is indeed the best of the chestnuts, the color of the chestnut shell is oily brown, which is different from the color of coffee and the color of ochre, and the locals call it "chestnut shell color", which has become a special color when modern people describe color.

The East Mountain and the West Mountain on the edge of Taihu Lake are indeed the two treasure mountains of Wudi. In addition, Taicang, Changshu, Kunshan and Shazhou are all the best places in the world. Fan Chengda, a "resident of Shihu" in the Southern Song Dynasty, was a native of Suzhou, and he wrote in the "Chronicle of Wu County": "Dingshan chestnut, out of Changshu Dingshan, this chestnut is smaller than Changli." The fragrance is superb, also known as the musk sachet, with its fragrance and soft, the breeze is dry. "Dingshan is the north peak of Changshu Yushan Mountain, the direction of Dayi, the chestnuts produced here are called "musk sachets", which can be seen that it is sweet and delicious, and it is precious, and Changshu people affectionately call them "Benshan chestnuts".

Dongshan, Xishan and Yushan all produce chestnuts, with delicate flesh texture and special sweet taste, which is very popular among Suzhou people. I once read a poet chanting "chestnut", the name can not remember, only remember a sentence "peel off the cold appearance, dedicate the golden inside", is the chestnut personification of the chant, I do not know much poetry, but I think from the sugar fried chestnut to Jiangnan chestnut reputation is not as big as the "Liangxiang chestnut", still in a niche state.

What's wrong with the minority, "like the niche things, don't care about the public's vision", the conditions are ripe, the small can become bigger.

November 4, 2021 in Shanghai "Condensed Wind Xuan"

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