Stinky mandarin fish
Text/Grandpa Mango Jun
Stinky Mandarin Fish – Made by Grandpa Mango Jun
Mr. Wang Zengqi's 32 essays on eating were compiled into a book, called "Five Tastes".
Cook and cook, reconcile the five flavors, very good. Unreading its text is still full of beautiful delicacies waiting, which is really exciting.
One fresh mandarin fish
Mr. Wang's "Five Tastes" has an article on "Mandarin Fish", which is extensively involved in the origin of mandarin fish, and the in-depth analysis is of great interest. The text also examines in detail the reason why mandarin fish is called "catfish", and every wisp is clear and clear. It can be seen that Mr. Li is committed to specialization.
The "pickled fresh cinnamon fish" in the Anhui volume of the "Chinese Recipe" is the stinky mandarin fish
Although Mr. Wang did not spend ink to tell the cooking method, there was a sentence that I saw the beginning of the dish making: "Mandarin fish has fewer spines and thick meat." Garlic clove meat. It is the three words of this garlic clove meat that show the name of the dish that Wang Lao tasted at that time. It can be said with certainty that it is "pickled fresh cinnamon fish" in the Anhui volume of the "Chinese Recipe". Although the word "gui" in the recipe should be judged as a typo here, Wang Lao once said: "It doesn't matter if it is written as "guiyu", as long as it is that thing. ”
Mandarin fish is marinated
Marinated mandarin fish, a classic emblem dish. When it comes to "pickled mandarin fish", non-industry insiders do not know much. However, when it comes to its other name, "Stinky Mandarin Fish", few diners do not know.
In 2008, my daughter studied in LuojiaShan, Wuchang, a graduate student at Wuhan University, and my wife and I went to Visit Han, roaming to Donghu Village adjacent to Wuhan University in our spare time, restaurants and restaurants along the street, every household "stinky mandarin fish" attracted eye-catching, diners like carp across the river, flocked to it.
A food that has attracted much attention and widely caters to the tastes of sentient beings must have the ability to continue life. Otherwise, the red pole will be like a fleeting moment in the clouds.
The popularity of food also brought the opportunity for inkers to dance. The literati tried their best to compile stories, and if the sentences found in the paper piles with slightly starry edges were even more controversial.
After three days of pickling (the optimal temperature for pickling fermentation is 25 degrees Celsius)
Most of the mandarin fish are set in a history of more than 200 years. Unlike some dishes that absurdly and bizarrely date back to the "bird raw fish soup" era. The Skunk Fish does not extend the story so much, but there are too many versions of the "historical materials" to be confused. Fortunately, it all happened on the shores of the Wutou Chuwei River and Huaihuai, in short, it is not very outrageous.
Mr. Chen Xiaoqing, the famous media person and the general director of "China on the Tip of the Tongue", in addition to giving a different style of documentary to hundreds of millions of viewers, he also wrote a good article. He has written a book about the chronicle of ten years of drinking and sipping, and the title of the book is "The Taste in the World" that I must read every day at the head of the bed. Bai Yansong commented on the book: "Chen Xiaoqing's food articles are better than the food documentaries he directed. "It's really a word, sonorous.
"The Taste in the World" Mr. Shen Hongfei wrote a preface, in which he praised Mr. Chen: "Eating and drinking have the Tao, and writing has the qi ... Chen Xiaoqing's ground qi... Brewed in dantian, thick in the root of the tongue, thin on the tip of the tongue. It can be seen that the kind of heroism that Mr. Shen wrote when he wrote the article, writing in one go, expressing his chest with all his heart, can be described as magnificent. I hope that Mr. Shen will not tease my clumsiness as "sour gas".
There is an article in the Zhiwei text, "The Cynical Fish", which is about the stinky mandarin fish. The whole article is written with humor and humor, and it is unbearable to read it. The article also discusses the past and present lives of the stinky mandarin fish, and after listing the historical data, ridicules the fabricators with a mocking tone. And said: "I agree that the stinky mandarin fish comes from the folk, but when exactly did it appear?" To be tested. "In a few words, it is enough to see Mr. Chen's rigor, and the demeanor of everyone who is really not exaggerated and does not speak presumptuously."
In other articles, I mentioned that my daughter helped me find "Chinese Recipes" on the Internet, in which the stinky mandarin fish in the Anhui roll was made, which provided me with an authoritative cooking guide.
Preparation of ingredients
There are too many mandarin fish dishes, only the Net Coat Guiyu, Colorful Guiyu, White Juice Guiyu, Plum Blossom Guiyu, Hydrangea Guiyu, Silver Silk Guiyu, Peony Guiyu, Comb Guiyu, Sanwei Guiyu, alas, there are many more. Anhui rolls also have fire grilled cinnamon fish, white sauce cinnamon fish, net oil cinnamon fish.
Mandarin fish are abundant, but few are passed down. Some can only be played in the pages of the book and think like to taste it. Regardless of Ewan, it is an indisputable fact that the name is gradually declining and has its name but no reality.
Mandarin fish is slaughtered before it is put into the pot. In the early years, I ate in LaotongCheng, Hankou, which is famous for its bean skin, but cooking fresh mandarin fish from the river is not sloppy at all. The clerk used a net pocket to bring a water-dripping spotted mandarin fish, weighed in person, half an hour, a plate of spitting squirrel cinnamon fish on the table.
The mandarin fish listed above are all unified fresh fish dishes. The garlic clove meat that Wang Lao said could not appear in mandarin fish fresh cooking. Only the marinated fish muscles are dehydrated and firm, and the garlic cloves are presented.
Mandarin fish is scaled, gill and offal, and marinated with salt, peppercorns and ginger shreds. Pickled mandarin fish temperature is crucial. The fish muscle is perishable at too high a temperature, and the salting slows down at too low a temperature, delaying cooking. The optimal temperature for pickling fermentation is 25 degrees Celsius.
Whether the stinky mandarin fish can breed the odor produced by the hydrolysis of the fish muscle salt stain is all in the use of salt. Marinate fish with excessive salt, like pickled fish, the fish does not rot but does not produce the special taste of stinky mandarin fish. Too light use of salt is low temperature, fish muscle is also perishable and smelly, broken is not the strange smell of the stinky mandarin fish we chase, must not be eaten. Therefore, the right amount of salt can reach the tipping point of pickling. Temperature and salt are the two quality control points for preserving mandarin fish, which seems to have appeared in the process language of applying for a production license?
Peel the five flowers, winter shoots, and dice the garlic. The emblem recipe is sliced, I think it affects the perception of the dish, so I changed it from a piece to a ding, and I dare not have the idea of discriminating against the grandmaster.
Oil pan, lard rape oil can be. Fry the mandarin fish in a pan until 70% hot mandarin fish is browned on both sides. Drain to remove grease.
With a little fried fish fat, sauté the diced meat, bamboo shoots until the raw added soy sauce, cooking wine, sugar, chicken soup, then put in the mandarin fish with high heat boiling and then turn to low heat simmer for half an hour, at this time the soup is dried, sprinkled with garlic, thin and thin the pot.
As for the adult form of Huizhou stinky mandarin fish, I shared Mr. Chen Xiaoqing's description with the jun: "The smell is fragrant, the fish is powdery, the meat is not powdered, it is garlic cloves,salty and delicious... The fish is scattered like a fresh lily. At this time, the cross-section of the fish meat that can be seen, the center is snow-white, gradually coloring to the side, to the edge, it is actually as bright as a peach blossom. ”
From the pot to the table (you can sprinkle garlic seedlings on the plate, if not, you can also sprinkle onions on the plate)
As for the origin of the stinky mandarin fish, the more authoritative "Chinese Recipe" states: "This dish has a history of more than 100 years... It is the local traditional flavor of Huizhou. ”
Garlic clove meat