In the hutongs of old Beijing, vendors selling pork head meat often come. They were carrying oval red lacquered wooden cabinets with boards on them, and the cabinet contained pig faces, pig ears, pig mouth strips (tongues), pig hearts, pig livers, pig lungs, pig bellies, pig tails, etc. Because these things cannot be eaten, they are delicious, and the price is much cheaper than pork and ribs, so they have become the wine and vegetable snacks of the people and the pawns of the market. The people welcomed it, and the business was good, so there were peddlers who specialized in smoking pork head meat and selling it along the streets.
They went to the wholesale market early in the morning to buy fresh pig heads, cleaned them, split them into the pot with a knife, added salt and ingredients, boiled on high heat, then changed the simmering heat and simmered slowly, fished out when they were seven or eight years old, finely removed the bones, teeth and other debris, and then coated with red yeast, smoked on the shelf with charcoal, roasted until fully cooked, and placed in a ventilated place to cool down. Pork head meat oil shines red and emits a burst of incense. Vendors cut them into large pieces, put them in red-lacquered wooden cabinets, and hawk along the streets of the lower alleys.
When they enter the alley, they shout "Smoke fish come, fry gluten to yo!" But they never shouted "selling pork head meat", although they did sell smoked yellow croaker, smoked eggs, and smoked dried tofu, but they had never seen gluten for sale. I think it may be because of the dislike of pork head meat is not a serious part of the pig, think this name is indecent, right?
In addition to the dish that can be used as a sake dish, the best combination is the hot fire that has just come out of the pot. The fire is made of white hair noodles, yellowish on both sides, opened from the middle, the sliced pork head meat into a clip, the hot air of the fire will immediately burn the pork head meat soft, become soft and delicious, the aroma immediately overflows, especially delicious. It can also be sandwiched in a sesame pancake. So the vendor's red lacquered wooden cabinet also carries some hot or sesame cakes, because they are all in one cabinet, the pork head meat is soft, the baked cakes are warm, and the two are sandwiched, which is really a perfect match. As soon as they heard the shouting, many people from the neighbors came out to buy.
The streets and alleys of old Beijing are full of wine stalls and taverns. People who drink wine have to eat some small dishes with wine, and pork head meat is one of the drinkers' favorites. The seller of pork head meat is also a light car, specializing in taverns. They sell pig faces, pig ears, and mouth strips into parts, of course, ears and tongues are more expensive. Cut the part that the drinker wants into thin slices, wrap it with a lotus leaf, hold the lotus leaf in his hand, turn around and go into the tavern to moisturize.
When I was a child, I lived near the West Fourth Arch, and often went to the Deqing Building in the southeast corner of the Fourth Arch to buy pork head meat. The sauce pork head meat is very soft and the taste is mellow and rich, which I think is more delicious than smoked pork head meat. Its flesh skin is bright brown, cut into slices, the fat meat is white, the lean meat is reddish, the three colors are harmonious, and the layers are clear and clear in contrast. Pork head meat is fat but not greasy, because it also has some translucent tendons in it, and it has a lubricating texture when chewed. Cut a plate of pork head meat, use the mother's freshly baked flapjack a clip, the skin and fat meat melt immediately, with your hands to support the quick eating, the crust is crisp, the meat is soft and fragrant, and the mouth is full of oil. After eating and drinking a bowl of millet porridge, that is really my favorite.
The various parts of the pig's head taste different, but they are all very tasty. Sauce pork tongue meat is tender, no fat oil, no shredded meat, only meat aroma; sauce pig brain from the appearance is light sauce color, cut to see abnormally white and tender, very delicate, the entrance does not need to chew with teeth, as long as you use your tongue to sip, immediately dissolve, the elderly like this bite. Listening to adults say where to eat to make up for where, often eat pig brain can improve intelligence, this is of course a joke.
Chinese cuisine in the world can be called second to none, not to mention Lu cuisine, Cantonese cuisine, Huaiyang cuisine, Sichuan cuisine and other large series, even this pig's head that can not be on the table can be made of color and flavor, which shows the breadth and depth of Chinese food culture.
Original title: Pork head meat
Source: Beijing Evening News He Daqi Wen and picture
Process Editor: u004
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